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First time in Switzerland - only 5 days in May!
Despite reading similar posts, my wife and I are looking for specific advice how to best maximize a short, 5-day trip to Switzerland. We are leaving small children at home and can't stay longer.
We have dreamed of visiting the Swis Alps, but with so much to see in so little time, we want ot make sure we see the "best of the best", the "can't miss", the "once in a lifetime"! We are flexible to arrive/depart from Geneva or Zurich, but are looking to keep excess travel to a minimum so we can get more accomplished on the ground. Also - we will staying over a Sabbath during which time we don't travel. We are looking for suggestions for somewhere beautfiul to stay for a day where we can walk and explore the nearby beauty. (we came across Puente en Kandersteg online but do not know much about it). Any and all input and insights are most welcome! |
Heading to a meeting so only a few minutes to reply. I'd say head to the Lauterbrunnen valley. I find it to be the most beautiful place on earth. There is a lot to do there including hiking, scenic train rides, mountain bike rentals (including easy downhill rides), boat excursions, etc. It would be nice to go later in May so that the trails will be drier and more of the lifts will be open...but I'll leave the specifics of that for the experts.
We just came back from our 2nd visit to the valley. The first we stayed in Wengen in 1999 and this time we stayed in Murren. Loved them both. |
I have only been to "CH" once when I was a kid but plan on going next year, so I've been doing a whole lot of research. My answer is based on that research, not on personal experience. Most of the best places to enjoy in Switzerland is next to very high mountains and a lake. Most posters have suggested that Luzern offers the best mix of lake, mountains, and urban cool. That is where we are going. Other ideas for the Sabbath are: Interlaken and Lugano, maybe also Schaffhausen with the Rheinfalls, which are reputed to be gorgeous for walkers.
The previous posting for the Lb valley is fine, but does require public transportation for enjoyment, so that is an option for days other than the Sabbath. Obviously, there are no wrong answers, only right answers and right answers that are more right for you than other right answers; so don't stress over getting the perfect answer. Just pick a place and enjoy it. - please share yoru experience when you get back . |
Hi aaorose,
I agree with Wekiva above that the Jungfrau area would be the best bet. This area is very popular for first-time (and repeat!) visitors to the country because it has the drop-dead views, dramatic mountain scenery, and two nearby lakes. It also has really well-developed tourist infrastructure that make it truly user-friendly! I would prefer to stay in one of the small, car-free villages, either Wengen or Mürren. This is where time sort of stops, where the air is pristine-clean, where you can either take on a challenging hike or enjoy some wine from your balcony overlooking the steep valley below. You can get more information at www.myjungfrau.ch or www.mywengen.ch www.mymuerren.ch You can take a look at the train journey times from Zürich or Geneva airports, but either one will be about 3h30. Train schedules and fares at www.rail.ch Have fun! s |
I agree with above posters that lake areas are the most scenic for train routes as well as hikes.
Can't Miss: Ascending the Jungfraujoch, it is expensive, over 100 francs pp. I liked the experience would probably do it again. Best of the Best: Hiking the green hills, with a view of a lake or a village in the valley below you and a beautiful snow capped mountain in the background. There are many places in Swiss that provide this experience. Once in a lifetime: Buying a train pass and taking train rides for the sole purpose of enjoying the scenery :D |
If you go to one destination, by definition there is no excess travel.
Of the two obvious Swiss Alsp destinations, Berner Oberland and Zermatt, the Berner Oberland has more things to do, especially when the weather does not cooperate. While Zurich has a slight edge in getting to Berner Oberland, you should look at the overall logistics to determine whether Geneve in/out, Zurich in/out, Geneve in/Zurich out, or Zurich in/Geneve out gives you the timing you want. I don't use Geneve because all the flights from my home city to GVA are more expensive than into ZRH. Try very hard to go straight to Berner Oberland upon arrival without having to consume one overnight at Zurich or Geneve. For an alpine experience, stay above the valley at Wengen or Murren. |
Thanks everyone. With such similar replies, it makes the decision a lot easier!
Here's a follow up question - Venice was a close second on our to-do list. Would it make any sense to take the Bernina Express to Tirano/Venice for 2 days, and either return, or fly home from Italy (Rome closest airport?), or is that simply not do-able in our 5 day limit? |
though the Bernina Express is IMO Europe's most awesomely scenic rail route it would take all of two days to go from Zurich to Venice this way - two full travel days. But if you do do this type of rail travel - Geneva or Zurich to Jungfrau Region around Interlaken then train via Chur to Saint Moritz and down to Tirano, Italy then by all means investigate the 4-day consecutive Swiss Saver Railpass - great sites for oodles about Swiss trains, passes, Half-Fare Cards (the Swiss Card could be a cheaper version of the Half-Fare Card with all the benefits) - www.swisstravelsystem.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com; www.ricksteves.com.
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Staying in the car free villages and hiking on the mountains there? In May? The villages will be quite dead, hardly any cable cars in operation except the cog-trains - at least until around 20th May or so. And depending on the winter/spring weather most hiking trails above the villages will still be snow covered or at least muddy.
Sorry to rain on your parade. But I'd rather stay down by the lakes - Merligen, Gunten, Oberhofen would be my favourites - and do day trips depending on the weather. To answer your follow-up question - it doesn't make sense. Concentrate on one region. I. |
No Venice don't make sense - 5 days and spend two days getting there then how much time would you have there? If you could spring for a few more days in your total trip and fly out of Venice then that could work.
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Agree with others-Wengen or Murren are wonderful. There may be a big difference weatherwise in early May versus late May. We were there at the end of May this year (stayed at the Alpenrose) and the weather was chilly and some lifts were closed. Owners of the Alpenrose told us they had a late snow in mid May. The views from this hotel are just beautiful. You could plan to hike on the Sabbath if this appeals to you-lots of choices of hiking trails.
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Thanks Ingo (I really enjoyed reading your recent trip to the region - it gave me lots of great ideas). Regarding weather for the trip, does a few weeks difference departing mid-May, or beginning of June make a difference.
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We stayed in Murren this year...June 3 and 4 and the weather was fantastic. Also the trails were snow free and not muddy.
In 1999 we stayed in Wengen in early May and the weather was cooler and the trails were still a mess. If you have the option then early June would be better. The weather and trails are bound to be better and yet you'll miss the busy summer crowds. It is true that early June is still probably considered shoulder season and the towns are slower. But for us less crowds in the towns and on the trails was a plus. So what if there were only 2 tourist trinket shops open instead of 12. :) |
The villages will indeed be quite dead, which is exactly why we choose to visit the BO in April and May. It's not a problem for us as we've been many times, yet for a first time visitor, it's not ideal. Some mountain excursions will be closed for the season and hiking trails will be sloppy.
You'll want to check operating hours so that you're not disappointed. |
Hi again,
Yes, I think that, if you can move your trip to early June, it would make for a better trip. Still fewer crowds but better chance of warm and sunny weather. s |
Early June is definitely much better. No crowds yet.
Glad you liked my trip report! I. |
Well then June it is! Final question, for now: where can we find the best accomodations in Berner Oberland and the general Jungfrau Region? This is our first and maybe only trip to the area, so we would really like to stay somewhere special. Any 4 or 5 star hotels in the area? Or very classy smaller, boutique hotels?
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Areas: Wengen, Lauterbrunnen or Brienz
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In June you can definitely stay in one of the car-free villages. Wengen would be my favourite. Hotel Alpenrose is often recommended here, it's a family-run three-star hotel. A more upscale and very good hotel would be the Regina in Wengen.
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Just back from Wengen, sweetie darlings.
Took at boat ride from Interlaken to Brienz and stopped off at creepy Hotel Giessbach for some coffee and chocolate torte on their patio. I thought I was Angelique on "Dark Shadows." Went to the loo to see if I could find Barnabas Collins!! Thanks, Shuler, Schatzi, for the laugh I had absolutely PERFECT weather. It only rained once during the day--Wednesday, September 14--during my train ride from Wengen to Luzern. Switzerland is sooooooo expensive. I walked out of Starbucks in Zurich (near the Coop on the Bahnhofstrasse) when I realized a coffee was almost $7. These are Cartier prices, Miss Thing. Pippy, posting in Fodorville for over 10 years |
Dark Shadows! How appropriate. Some of the guests even looked like they came from that show.
It is creepy and musty but quite beautiful in its setting. They have an incredible whiskey selection in the lobby bar. |
Reichenbach Falls off Lake Brienz also has an eerie feeling as it twas here that Sherlcok Holmes tangled with Prof Moriarity, with one falling into the roaring cascade to his presumed death. Near Meiringen, a nice town to include on a Lake Brienz boat ride (bus from Brienz or Geissbach Falls also I believe - we walked from Geissbach Falls to Meiringen - Meiringen gave its name to meringue, still a local delicacy.
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When we stayed in Murren we stayed at Hotel Alpina. I wouldn't consider this 4/5 star or classy boutique...but it's got the best view you can imagine. The hotel actually sits on the very edge of the towering cliff. The staff there are wonderful and the hotel has a very nice Swiss feel to it. Just make sure you get a room on the valley side of the hotel. One note is all rooms are at least up one flight of stairs...up to 4 or 5 flights up. I don't recall seeing an elevator.
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Murren is great if you just want to explore the immediate area but as a base for the Interlaken/Jungfrau Region in general it is rather isolated - having to spend up to an hour getting down to Lauterbrunnen just to connect with trains and gondolas to other places. But Murren's location is stunning, for sure!
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Hi again,
Quick correction on the above post. The trip from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen is only 20 minutes in one direction, not an hour. Mürren is somewhat isolated, but it's not a huge deal -- and your rewards are all your mornings and evenings looking at stupendous views!! s |
it can be IME longer than 20 mins, an optimal time if there are lines to board the cable car at Grustchalp (sp?) IME. Murren is too isolated IMO if your goal is to use it as a base for the great Jungfrau Region.
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It DOES NOT take an hour to go from Murren to Lauterbrunnen via the Grutschalp Cable Car. It takes about 23 minutes. Even if there were lines to board the cable car (which I have never seen goin DOWN--and I was just there last week), add another 10 minutes for the cable car to go down and back. That is about 33 minutes, definitely not an hour.
But, I do agree that Murren is not as good as Wengen if your main objective is to visit the Jungfrau. If I was going to the BO and my aim was just to visit the Jungfrau, I would stay in Wengen or Grindelwald as they are both one train stop away from Kleine Scheidegg. If I wanted to shop, have multiple restaurant venues, and some sort of nightlife, I would stay in Interlaken. Just my two pence, Pippy--tschuss |
Great conversation everyone, thanks! Can you recommend a good website with the local transportation options - train schedule, cable car access, etc... through BO?
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Train schedules can be found at www.sbb.ch --Click on English option.
Input your homebase and destination with date to see travel options and prices for that trip. www.berneroberland.ch has a wealth of information in GERMAN if you can read deutsch. Otherwise, just do internet searches for specific lifts that you plan to use. ----bahn stands for that particular travel stretch ie: Jungfraubahn or Titlisbahn, and Fahrplan is the operating schedule. |
www.bahn.de the German Railways web site has schedules for all of Europe and IME it is the easiest to use.
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