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-   -   First time in Scotland, Help please (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/first-time-in-scotland-help-please-1647876/)

Sberg Feb 13th, 2018 05:36 PM

We did a loop north of Portree one day. We started at Fairy Glen ( go early as there is very little parking). Then we went to Quaraing and did a hike ( we did not do the entire loop hike as it was pouring rain for part of the hike but even in the rain it was gorgeous). We stopped and had lunch and then drove over to Kilt Rock ( it’s a quick stop to see the waterfall) then on to Old Man of Storr. You can hike up to that too if you are up to it or you can walk part way to see it. We saw some beautiful rainbows that day. By then we were quite tired and went to dinner. It was a great day.

The next day we went south. We went to Neist Point, a Whisky distillery, and Fairy Pools. There were a lot of midges at the Pools, be prepared. There were also lots of people who parked all over the place and got stuck in the mud! Be careful where you park. If you only have one full day I would tour north of Portree. The south is beautiful too but the north is out of this world!

majuli Feb 14th, 2018 05:18 AM


Originally Posted by Sberg (Post 16674700)
We did a loop north of Portree one day. We started at Fairy Glen ( go early as there is very little parking). Then we went to Quaraing and did a hike ( we did not do the entire loop hike as it was pouring rain for part of the hike but even in the rain it was gorgeous). We stopped and had lunch and then drove over to Kilt Rock ( it’s a quick stop to see the waterfall) then on to Old Man of Storr. You can hike up to that too if you are up to it or you can walk part way to see it. We saw some beautiful rainbows that day. By then we were quite tired and went to dinner. It was a great day.

The next day we went south. We went to Neist Point, a Whisky distillery, and Fairy Pools. There were a lot of midges at the Pools, be prepared. There were also lots of people who parked all over the place and got stuck in the mud! Be careful where you park. If you only have one full day I would tour north of Portree. The south is beautiful too but the north is out of this world!

Many thanks Sberg for your tips for 2 days in Skye, we have 1 and half days and will try to retrace your steps and cover as much as we can. Are wellies the appropriate footwear for Skye?
How far in advance should we book the ferry for our trip in mid July.

janisj Feb 14th, 2018 06:14 AM

>>Are wellies the appropriate footwear for Skye?<<

Absolutely not. (assuming you mean wellies/rain boots). You want sturdy water proof shoes or comfortable hiking boots -- wellies are a prescription for blisters and sore feet and give no support or much in the way of traction. They are good for slogging through a field or walking through puddles -- they are not for 'real' walking.

Sberg Feb 15th, 2018 05:28 AM

I totally agree with janisj you need waterproof hiking boots. You should also bring a good raincoat and rain pants. I SO wish we had rain pants as we got soaked a few times. Next time I will definitely pack them. It only rains off and on but when it rains it really rains! The good thing is we saw so many amazing rainbows! There are not many places to eat on the northern loop so pack snacks and water. If you follow the loop from west to east (Fairy Glen, to Quairaing, to Kilt Rock to Old Man of Storr) you don't see too many places to stop. After we left the Quairing and met back up with the main road we did detour from the loop slightly and went North up to the point. There is a ruin up there that is beautiful. When we turned around and headed back towards Kilt Rock that is when we saw the Flodigarry Country House Hotel . It is right on the water but tucked back a little so it is a bit hard to see. It was a great place for lunch if you want to stop somewhere. They had the best fish soup (I can't remember what the Scottish name for it is). If it is nice out you can eat outside. When we got to Old Man of Storr my husband hiked up to the top. I stayed at the gate below (as I was just too tired to go all the way) and had a great chat with a woman from Belgium whose husband also decided to go the the top. We had made a reservation at the Skeabost Hotel for that night and did not have time to go back to the hotel and change (which I was a bit worried about) but there were no worries. We cleaned up the best we could in the parking lot (luckily we had packed some dry clothes) and went in. The food was great! There was a young girl playing the bagpipes outside when we got there. Great ending to a great day.

As far as the ferry goes I defer to the locals on the board. We drove over the bridge into Skye and took the ferry on the way out (as we were headed to Mull). I don't believe we booked the ferry in advance but we were there in September, you might need to in June. The only ferry I booked ahead was the one leaving Mull and I booked that a few months in advance and the website was very easy to use. If you are driving to Glencoe from Skye you will be driving through Onich (it is the town prior to Glencoe). Make note of the weather. We were there 2 days and both days the sun was shining up through Onich and then we crossed the bridge into Glencoe and it was so cloudy and overcast. Almost like 2 different worlds. Very beautiful area.

Nikki Feb 15th, 2018 06:14 AM

SBerg, was the fish soup Cullen skink? Wonderful stuff.

majuli Feb 15th, 2018 07:40 AM

Thanks Sberg for inputs on the loop, hope I got it right https://goo.gl/maps/hBPto9AKfmG2. If time permits will venture towards the pools.
Will book the ferry asap, by Feb

Lochview Guesthouse at Onich is not available for our dates. Most B&Bs in Glencoe/Ballachulish/Onich/Kinlochleven require min 2 nights stay. With 3 days between Glencoe & Callendar the split is proving a tad tricky to manage. One option is to cancel the 2 nights at Callender (already booked,1 night paid for, refundable) to provide for 2 nights at Glencoe area or keep the itin as it is and keep trying for some place at Glencoe for 1 night.

Thoughts please.
Regards

Sberg Feb 15th, 2018 08:11 AM

Just from my perspective (as we loved Glencoe), I would spend 2 nights there. With only one night if the weather is bad you won't be able to do too much. With 2 nights you would have more time (if you like to hike or walk). There are some amazing hikes there (that are not too strenuous). We drove from Glencoe to Edinburgh through Callandar but took a different route than you showed. We drove down around Loch Lamond and then up to Callendar and spent the night. I don't think it is too much longer but it was very scenic. We stopped and saw some beautiful villages and great scenery along the way. The drive didn't take that long so if you have places you want to see you have time to stop. When we left Callandar we headed straight to EDI to drop the car and get the tram into the city (so easy). We missed Stirling but you can't see everything right? Tip, be sure to get gas as soon as you see a gas station. There is one right near the airport drop off prior to entering airport but it is on the other side of the street. We had to go into the airport to turn around and go back out to get gas. It wasn't difficult but if you see gas prior to the airport exit you might want to get it. Drop off was very easy and organized and the tram into Edinburgh is right there.

Your map on Skye is spot on to what we did. The road to get to Fairy Glen is not well marked (if it is marked at all) so be on the lookout right before you get into that town on the right. Or ask someone before you go. We had a pretty detailed map which helped tremendously. The lady at the B & B we stayed at gave us some wonderful maps and ideas about the area.

Sberg Feb 15th, 2018 08:21 AM

Yes, it was Cullen Skink. I so wish I could remember everything but...it is not to be. Thankfully we have lots of Fodorites to help!

janisj Feb 15th, 2018 08:23 AM

Re the division of time: There is more scenery/hiking around Glencoe and more interesting places to visit around Callander.

If you plan any/many hikes then 2 Glencoe and 1 Callander works. Plus if you leave Glencoe in the morning, take a short detour to Killin, you would still be in the Callander area by mid day. So half a day then and half a day+ the next day would still let you visit Inchmahome, Doune and Stirling before driving to EDI to drop the car in the early evening.

majuli Feb 15th, 2018 08:51 AM

From Glencoe to Callender which route would you suggest via Killin or via Luss https://goo.gl/maps/9rZGMDN7WsB2
If we plan via Luss then can we do the loop from Inchmahome Priory to Loch Katrine and reach B&B by evening,
Are Trossachs Trail drive and Three Lochs Forest Drive the same? Three Lochs Forest Drive

Will do Doune and Stirling and Falkirk (if possible) on way to EDI.
Sberg thanks for word on the gas station

Regards

janisj Feb 15th, 2018 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by majuli (Post 16676048)
From Glencoe to Callender which route would you suggest via Killin or via Luss https://goo.gl/maps/9rZGMDN7WsB2
If we plan via Luss then can we do the loop from Inchmahome Priory to Loch Katrine and reach B&B by evening,
Are Trossachs Trail drive and Three Lochs Forest Drive the same? Three Lochs Forest Drive

Will do Doune and Stirling and Falkirk (if possible) on way to EDI.
Sberg thanks for word on the gas station

Regards


Not via Luss. Take the A82 - A85 (side trip to Killin) - A84 (side trip to Loch Katrine if you want - not a 'must' IMO) - Callander. Though what I would do is Killin -- then on to Inchmahome to get it in in the afternoon, then back to Callander to check in. IF you are making good time, you can detour off the A84 to Balquhidder and see Rob Roy's grave and the church. But not if it will make you late to Inchmahome.

majuli Feb 17th, 2018 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by janisj (Post 16676014)
Re the division of time: There is more scenery/hiking around Glencoe and more interesting places to visit around Callander.

If you plan any/many hikes then 2 Glencoe and 1 Callander works. Plus if you leave Glencoe in the morning, take a short detour to Killin, you would still be in the Callander area by mid day. So half a day then and half a day+ the next day would still let you visit Inchmahome, Doune and Stirling before driving to EDI to drop the car in the early evening.

Thanks, we will have a relook at the Callander reservation. No hikes planned in Glencoe. just absorb the scenery and walk around the Loch Leven and A82. .
Is a day trip possible from Glencoe to Tobermory on the extra day ? Drive from Glencoe to Oban, ferry to Cragnuire , drive from Craignuire to Tobermory all appear to take an hour each, 3 hrs each way, 6 in total.
Should it be attempted?

Don't know when we can make it to Scotland again. After coming so close to Mull we wish can make it.

Thanks

janisj Feb 18th, 2018 08:19 AM

>>Is a day trip possible from Glencoe to Tobermory on the extra day ? Drive from Glencoe to Oban, ferry to Cragnuire , drive from Craignuire to Tobermory all appear to take an hour each, 3 hrs each way, 6 in total.
Should it be attempted? <<

Not IME/IMO. Especially not to Tobermory -- there is much more to Mull than the only town (pretty though it is). The other end of the island and Iona would take precedence. But I'd do neither as a day trip from Glencoe.

If you decide to -- Do not go via Oban. Take the Locahline Ferry instead. Whichever route -- it will take more than 3 hours each way. I assume you got the '3 hours' from some on-line calculator - right? Do realize you need to add 25% - 50%+ to all of them . . . and often more. Think more like 4 hours each way.

>> . . . After coming so close to Mull we wish can make it. <<

An option would be to visit Mull instead of Glencoe -- but you have very little time and cannot squeeze in the whole country.

sugarmaple Feb 18th, 2018 02:15 PM

Just chirping in to second waterproof pants.

My DH gave me a pair for our trip to Scotland last year,and frankly, I thought it was an “interesting” gift. Wrong! I wore them fairly often.

When you’re only in an area for a day or two and it’s pouring horizontally, the choice is to stay in or get out and see what came to see.

Also, I made rhe mistake of purchasing water repellant and not waterproof shoes. I’ll be looking for waterproof lightweight shoes, cut higher than a shoe for ankle support.

apologies if this was covered up thread, I haven’t read every one.

Sberg Feb 19th, 2018 04:23 AM

Majuli, you need to narrow down what you want to see. When I was first planning my trip I wanted to see the entire north coast of Scotland. With tips from this board I left off the north coast part and narrowed down my trip. I am very glad that I did! We were there for 2 weeks and saw a lot of what you want to see, but we had more time than you. We drove from Skye to Mull ( took ferry Armadale to Mailaig then took ferry Kilchoan to Tobermory and when we left took ferry Craignure to Oban)and spent 2 nights there. It was an absolutely beautiful drive and ferry ride (but you need to be comfortable driving a one track road to get to the Kilchoan ferry). I loved Mull but the two days we were there one day was absolutely beautiful but the other day was sideways rain. Tobermory is beautiful but there is a lot more beauty to see in Mull.

Your option would be to spend a few nights in Mull/(or at least one) and cut out your nights in Glencoe and just drive through (which is beautiful). Or spend 2 on Mull, 1 in Glencoe and skip Callandar and drive right to EDI. Or do a driveby and do 1 on Mull, 1 in Glencoe and 1 in Callandar. All are doable depending on what you want to do and how much you want to drive. As much as you want to you can not see everything. My motto when I travel is to enjoy what I see and don't worry about what I miss. Any way you plan it you will see lots of a beautiful country.

majuli Feb 19th, 2018 09:55 AM

<Not IME/IMO. Especially not to Tobermory -- there is much more to Mull than the only town (pretty though it is). The other end of the island and Iona would take precedence. But I'd do neither as a day trip from Glencoe.
If you decide to -- Do not go via Oban. Take the Locahline Ferry instead. Whichever route -- it will take more than 3 hours each way.>

We will go by your suggestion and opt out. We are taking the 1040 ferry from Aramadle reaching Mallaig at 1125.

<An option would be to visit Mull instead of Glencoe -- but you have very little time and cannot squeeze in the whole country.> Agree to reconcile with only what is possible at a relaxed pace

<you need to narrow down what you want to see. When I was first planning my trip I wanted to see the entire north coast of Scotland. With tips from this board I left off the north coast part and narrowed down my trip. I am very glad that I did! We were there for 2 weeks and saw a lot of what you want to see, but we had more time than you. We drove from Skye to Mull ( took ferry Armadale to Mailaig then took ferry Kilchoan to Tobermory and when we left took ferry Craignure to Oban)and spent 2 nights there. It was an absolutely beautiful drive and ferry ride (but you need to be comfortable driving a one track road to get to the Kilchoan ferry). I loved Mull but the two days we were there one day was absolutely beautiful but the other day was sideways rain. Tobermory is beautiful but there is a lot more beauty to see in Mull.>

The itin was constructed after sifting through numerous trip reports on this forum (starting with yelpir- Lake Dist,& Scotland, 2007), now time to deconstruct as we get down to fit it in our available time frame with tips from the board. We want to do what others have done but the variable(time available) comes in between.
Glencoe 2 night min required, only Tom Echainn offers 1 night and that too might not be available after some time.

Driving on one track should not be an issue, in our part of the world almost everything is one track

Thanks for the patience, grateful indeed,
Regards

janisj Feb 19th, 2018 10:17 AM

>>Glencoe 2 night min required<<

Look in Ballachulish and Onich -- both are very near to Glencoe but might not have two night minimums (or is this a Friday or Sat night? Many places will have a 2 night minimum on weekends)

majuli Feb 19th, 2018 10:02 PM

Yes janisj, its a Friday and almost all listings at www.discoverglencoe.scot have the min 2 night requirement which is also filling up fast.
Glencoe B&B owners are a nice lot, in case they do not have accommodation they suggest alternatives to look for notwithstanding the competition. Already liking the place

Is Duror or Oban an option, just in case?

janisj Feb 19th, 2018 10:12 PM

Duror would be fine -- it is only 10 miles from the Glencoe visitors centre.

Oban is too far -- if you end up in Oban then I'd center those two days around exploring Mull and Kilmartin instead of Glencoe

BUT -- since his is the weekend I'd seriously consider not basing in Glencoe at all. You can still spend a few hours there exploring/walking and then head out and stay all three nights in or near Callander.

farrermog Feb 20th, 2018 12:28 AM

If you're going to Iona and the weather's iffy and they still have that landing craft thing, best to stand on a seat as it approaches the other side or you'll likely be drenched to the knees when the end is let down and the water surges in.

And as you'll be hiking and otherwise out and about has anyone mentioned the midges/ "meejees"? -


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