First Time in Paris--Restaurant Recommendations in and around Marais
 

Hi all,
We are going on a Viking cruise on the Seine (Paris-Normandy) in early July and will then spend 4 nights in Paris (first time). I am just overwhelmed for some reason planning for these extra days... We will go to the Louvre, the D'Orsay and the Rodin (a few hours in each; just the highlights this trip) but would love some suggestions for lunches and dinners. We will be staying in an airBNB near the Pompidou Center, and I also know that our first day/night after the cruise will be Bastille Day! So probably a very busy weekend... please help with any suggestions! Thanks much! Not tourist trap meals...but outdoors where we could linger over a glass of wine or cafe would be wonderful...

We’ve eaten several times at L’Ange 20 which is often recommended here. I just checked and they have outside seating which wasn’t available when we were last there in 2017. https://www.lange20.com/en/

I will be watching for other recommendations you get as we will be in Paris late September.

Hi casanic,

I second the recommendation of L'Ange 20.... it's a good restaurant. Reservations recommended.

Also recommend La Place Royal, at the Pl des Vosges. I just wandered in off the street and was impressed with the food and the diversity (good options for celiac & vegetarians, like my friend).

Also recommend the Bourse et la Vie, just north of the Palais Royale Gardens and near the Galerie Vivienne. I had the best steak frites there, and they are always well reviewed. They are currently running a special event where the kitchen is taken over by Ukrainian chefs, and they are serving Ukrainian food; a portion of the profits will go to help Ukraine. It's called La Borschte et la Vie.

In the 7th, there is something of a restaurant row developing around the Rue Saint Dominique, with Chez L'Ami Jean nearby (reservations necessary) and L'Violin d'Ingres (reservations necessary).

Do you already know about and use the app The Fork? It's very useful! I've found great restaurants using their reviews, and you can also use the app to make reservations.

Have fun as you plan!

Hi again,

The food tours group Paris by Mouth just reviewed La Borscht et la Vie, link below. Sadly, they say the special event will be over by 31 May... I'd thought it would continue until June. Ah well.

https://parisbymouth.substack.com/p/...e=facebook&s=r

s

I too enjoy L’Ange 20, check out their website though, they are closed on Monday and Tuesday. I go every time I am in Paris.
I know you asked for suggestions around the Marais but Reed near the Eiffel Tower is delish.
Also not near the Marais, and if you have money to spare, Le Grand Vefour is not only delish but also an experience, thoug I would suggest lunch.
In the 5th, Bistrot L’Estrapade, is also interesting and yummy.
Those are my faves.
Anywhere you are serious about, get reservations.

I have stayed in the Marais many times. These are some of my favorite in the Marais:

L’Ange 20 (like many others)
Restaurante Le Hangar - one of my favorites and very near where you are staying
Breizh Cafe - I’m not a sweet-food type person but they also have very good savory crepes; near Picasso museum
Les Enfantes Rouges - next to the area market Marches des Enfants Rouges. Very small; French with Asian influence
Au Bourguignon - near St Paul metro shop; really good classic beef bourguignon and escargot; I go there for lunch once each trip
Robert et Louise

Would also recommend others’ recommendations as I will be back in September, Covid willing.

This is a pretty good list. In the 3rd they have Breizh cafe for wonderful crepes and Les Enfants Des Marches- a really good restaurant in the Marches market. We also love Bistro Paul Bert and Le Servan in the 11th-a quick walk from the 3rd.

https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/b...rants-in-paris. Paris by mouth used to have a good list by arrondisment but they say their site is being revamped. Chowhound.com is no more but all the Paris experts are now on hungryonion.org, a very good food and restaurant site.

Go to Ambassade d'Auvergne and order the warm lentil salad. This will be your best chance to have the famous Le Puy lentils served by an experienced Auvergnat chef.

Just to clear up any confusion.... there are three restaurants in and around the wonderful Marché des Enfants Rouges with similar names. This open-air market is a great place to visit and has an only-in-Paris vibe which is remarkable.

Inside the market is a place with high tables/stools and a counter, Les Enfants du Marché. Limited menu of robust, carefully prepared food. This would be my choice.
On the same block, Café du Marché des Enfants Rouges is a typical neighborhood bistro, probably unremarkable.
The third place is around the corner, Les Enfants Rouges, as italynovice point out, carefully plated and elegant French food by a Japanese chef who has received many accolades.

No need to reserve for the bistro, but I would call the other two in advance.

Yes with the addition of Les Enfants du Marche restaurant inside the market it got a bit confusing. We had a wonderful meal there on our last trip to Paris and was looking forward to returning in May 2020 but sadly the world shut down and we haven’t been back to Paris since May 2019. I don’t think we reserved-we got there early (for the French) around 7 or 7:30 and got seats right away. We have eaten at Les Enfants Rouge a couple of times and yes there you must reserve.

Also another fun casual place in the Marais is Le Mary Celeste. It’s got delicious small plates and great cocktails and wine and very casual. We always rented an apartment in the haut Marais and always dropped in there for at least one dinner.

Another who uses The Fork to search for restaurants and book reservations.
Outside, or inside, overlooking the Seine, La Rotisserie d’Argent is a favorite of ours for lunch. Views of Notre Dame.

Remember that if you want to eat outside of the sometimes rigid French restaurant hours, there are the brasseries with continuous service. And, with the rather good Parisian transit system (Metro and buses) you don't have to confine yourself to the neighborhood of your lodging.

Several years ago we lucked out being in Paris on Bastille Day. Grab a bottle of wine and glasses (and a picnic if you want) and head to the Eiffel Tower for the evening! There's a huge (gentile) crowd, lights music and magic!

Just read a glowing report on Creperie Gigi in the upper Marais. Might be a good alternative to the more touristy Breizh cafe and easier to get into!

Thanks!!
 

These are all great suggestions and give us a good place to start!! Thanks to all of you who took the time to respond!

Topping to get any further feedback. I am flying into Paris in 2 weeks and eager for any new suggestions.

For a huge variety of restaurants, bars, cafes, and take aways, covering many types of French and international cuisine and loads of atmosphere I can thoroughly recommend the Rue Mouffetard in the 5th. I stayed in a Best Western about half way up -or down the street and ate there most nights, from one reasonably high end french meal at https://www.lebelordinaire.com and a sushi buffet lunch, and from crepes, oysters and plat du veau, to a gesiers salade followed by a home made tarte aux fraises.

Trust you meant genteel when you typed gentile!

I like cheap and dependable Chez Marianne on rue des Rosiers. You choose 4, 5 or 6 items from a selection of about 20 possibilities, so everybody can have what they want.