JRKite

Hi fellow fodorites,

I am planning to travel to Ireland this May for ~two weeks. I have never been there before, and I'm traveling solo. (39yo female)

Here are the probs.
1) Escorted vs. self-drive. I like to do my own thing, but don't want to miss anything because I'm driving.
2) There are so many places I really want to see, but I am having difficulty narrowing it down it seems by travel times I have seen posted.
3)If I do drive, are B&Bs really the best way to go? I am not a hostel type of person, and not sure hotels are economical.

I am sooo overwhelmed, I can barely make any headway. Where do I start?

Padraig

I suggest self-drive. True you cannot take in all the scenery while you drive, but you can stop wherever and whenever you want, stretch your legs, have a good look, take a photo, and be in (rather than passing by) the place.

That leads directly to your next question about how how much ground you cover. In scenic areas you travel slowly, partly because you are stopping to see or do things, and partly because the roads are often (usually) not built for high-speed inter-urban travel. So be disciplined, focus an what you really want to see, and keep the itinerary short and tight.

I think you have answered your third question already. Be warned that B&Bs cost the solo traveller a bit more. The effort in setting up a room is the same, whether it has one occupant or two, and many (I think most) B&Bs do not have singles so taking you means they might pass up the chance of two paying visitors.

I make no suggestions about itinerary because you have said nothing about what interests you.

Viajero2

JR-- driving in Ireland is not an easy proposition. A first timer to Ireland who doesn't like missing stuff should therefore avoid the driving solo bid. Next option is an escorted tour. I have never taken one, but do see that under your conditions and based on how poorly the dollar is doing, an escorted tour is actually a good value choice. So what to do? Split the vacation in two styles: the first week do it yourself and focus in areas with great public transport system and with easy day trips within a relative close radious, i.e. Dublin, down to Kilkenny. The second week, pick up a tour with a focus on a certain region you will like to see (i.e. Southwest) and meet up with the group and go. Tours have about 25% independent time alloted and the rest they are driving you to a place you would be heading out anyway. There isn't a lot of time to dilly-dally so you need to start by making a list of what is a MUST and what is a NICE to see. This will give you an idea on whether you just need to be in a region or if you really will be all over the place.

NEDSIRELAND

I agree with Viajero2 - be advised that you will probably get hit with a heavy 'single' surcharge on the Guided tour portion of your trip.

B&B's may not be the best way to go for a 39YO lady travelling 'solo.' Their rates are 'PPS' (per person sharing). You may have to negotiate on prices for B&B's. Hotels might be better for you.

A male septuagenarian I can't speak from a 39 yo female's perspective; but I found many B&B Operators to be very 'nosy,' so I opt for hotel stays whenever possible.

May is not peak tourist season except possibly for Ennis' Spring music festival (21-28 May?), so you should be able to 'pick & choose.'

annw

I went solo and did train (mostly) and taxis but have heard the bus system is great. I took trains because I didn't want to miss the scenery and didn't want to drive, particularly left-drive. I've done another trip with a woman friend and we also did trains vs. drive, with a couple of taxi trips. A trip where my husband drove with our whole family, he found it somewhat harrowing and wished we had taken trains. Car definitely gives you more freedom to see a lot of sights, but I never regretted our car-free travels.

It really depends on where you want to go. You could also consider trains/buses and getting a car for areas not accessible by public trans.

On my solo trip I went to Galway, Ennis, Aran Islands, and Dublin. With a friend, we went to Dingle, Connemara, & Skerries, as well as Galway and Dublin. Worked fine. We got to more places with the car (Ring of Kerry, Killarney, Enniskillen, Cork, Kinsale, and Sligo), but I think you can have a lovely tip without one. On an escorted tour you'd be mostly on busses, right?

nytraveler

Do it yourself and drive. Ireland doesn;t really have highways - so there's no issue of your speeeding along at 85 and not seeing anything. Most roads are small and local with low speeds and lots of places to pull over - so you can enjoy the scenery even while driving.

Can't comment on B&Bs - since I like large full service hotels. (I actually think it's kind of creepy staying in some stranger's house, and don;t like the idea of people knowing when I'm coming and going etc.)

tzarinna

I did it solo and took the bus around, and the train. I don't think I could've managed driving. I get lost.... a lot.
I know you don't want to do Hostels, but some do offer private rooms. Have you looked into guesthouses?

I was there for a little over a week.

Itallian_Chauffer

The BESt -all time -- SOLO FEMALE IN IRELAND thread:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34373959

Take a look at the various Tour Itineraries and see how THAT jibes with YOUR list of 'Must-Sees'. If it DOES match, then go for it -- but I'm quite sure you will find the 'cookie-cutter' tours somewhat lacking.

I've logged thousands of miles driving in Ireland without any significant 'incidents'...

There IS a Single Suppliment surcharge when traveling solo, BOTH on tour and otherwise, so THAT'S probably a wash.

B&B's in Ireland are MY preferred way to go -- it can add yet another dimension to your experience that you might other-wise miss.

Give us an idea of your Wish List and we'll have a go at helping you find YOUR way ....

Bob

irishface

I am a single female (older than you are now) who has traveled to Ireland solo many times over the last 41 years. I have rented a car many times without significant incident, though I did get stuck once down a road I shouldn't have been on with a little car. A kind farmer pulled me out with his tractor. (Long story, which is funnier now than it was then and which is irrelevant to the current topic.) I love being able to stop when and where I want, pick up picnic makings at the grocery store and eat at will, finding small towns off the beaten track, etc.

I didn't find B&B owners nosy, rather helpful and friendly. As far as the single supplement is concerned, I didn't find them outrageous; in fact, I often found B&Bs with single rooms. The supplements were a lot more reasonable than those on many tours. The tourist info. offices were very helpful at ferreting out single rooms. Until a few years ago I was a teacher so perforce travelled in the summer and did not have trouble fining places to stay even in high season. I did stay in hotels occasionally, and found them more expenxive than B&Bs. Price was for the room, not per person.

When I did eat in a restaurant, I found the wait people friendly and helpful and never got a "bad" table.

In fact, I am planning to go back this spring and will be driving myself.

Good luck with whatever you choose that will work for you. Have a wonderful time.

JRKite

You all are so great! Thanks for the info, it is so helpful.

I believe I am going to drive myself, because I want to get all that I want for my money...not what someone else decides.

As far as my itinerary, I am a nature lover, as well as history. I definitely would love to see the Dingle peninsula, as well as Connemara. I have been told not to miss Giants Causeway too (which may be difficult because its so far from other things I want to see???). I definitely don't want the tourist traps like Blarney, but really want to see Kylemore Abbey and the Rock of Cashel. Any other ideas??? (I would like to do a bit of birdwatching). Also want to see the Dublin zoo, believe it or not.

As far as driving, I am a zookeeper, and if you saw the areas that I drive every day at work, you would see that narrow roads are not an issue. I'm used to driving horse trailers in very tight spots.

Thanks again!

suze

This is nothing to do with Ireland, but I travel solo quite a bit (50+yo female) and I never rent a car or drive myself. It would give me an anxiety attack and I simply just would not want the responsibility.

That said, I do not take tours either.

I go on my own and plan my trips around what I can do making use of the train or bus system, and taxi or public tranpo within cities.

Viajero2

RE: Blarney....I was dragged by co-travelers to the Blarney Castle (compromising...). I had read here so many times about what a tourist trap it was. Guess what? It was so much fun and I loved it. The castle and surroundings forest area is definitely worth a visit. The whole kissing thing, you either do it or you don't. It is so irrelevant. A personal visit to this place really turned me around; I think it is a very interesting castle and site.

JRKite

Hi Viajero!

Thanks for that snippet on Blarney. I may just have to re-think that stop!

Itallian_Chauffer

For trip routing and planning:
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichel...MaHomePage.htm
OR/AND:
http://www.aaroadwatch.ie/

Be advised that the DRIVE TIMES are rather, AH... OPTOMISTIC -- as they assume that you are a skilled, LOCAL driver and that you won't be distracted by the views and the IRISHNESS of your surroundings.

If you decide to Mix-And-Match,
Day Tour companies:

Mostly run out of Dublin:
http://www.newgrangetours.com/tours.html
http://www.railtoursireland.com/

In Galway, there are a number of companies: http://www.bushq.com/galway/index.htm and in Killarney, Deros Tours offers numerous excursions AND has private drivers. http://www.derostours.com/rates.html

Does that get you STARTED?

PS: I have been to Blarney three times in the last nine years. The grounds ARE beautiful and I have a really nice photo, looking down from the battlements of the castle.
And YET --
I AM one of those that regularly advise skipping Blarney. It can be OVER-RUN with tourists, to the point where the narrow, steep and claustrophobic climb up the winding, worn, stone stairs can take FOREVER.
Since MANY on this board are trying to 'SEE IT ALL' in just a week or so, Blarney can be a MAJOR time-drain. There are MUCH better castles (Ross, in Killarney, Cahir Castle, in Cahir -- just to name two)

I often recommend Bunratty Folk Park, however -- so what do I know????

The TRUTH is, that I can't think of ANY place in Ireland that isn't worth a visit, or three. But, given MOST people's time considerations, seeing ALL that Ireland has to offer is seldom a viable option.

We give ADVICE here -- after our opinions are weighed, it is the Traveller's option to decide whether or not to TAKE it.

After all, it's YOUR vacation.

Bob

Viajero2

RE: Lines at Blarney. I was there at the end of August and there was NO LINE at all. That said, a friend was there in May and she had to deal with the lines. Even so, she thinks it was a blast, what can I say...

irishface

JR, if you are a zookeeper, you would really like the park on Fota Island (near Cork, it is not an island that needs a ferry ride to access). They are working on breeding rare species (and some not so rare) there and the animals are in very large enclosures so that from some angles, they look as if they are in the wild. I remember lemurs getting up very close to me and seeing one perch on a little girl's shoulder.

The Saltee Islands near Wexford (ferry from Kilmore Quay) are supposed to be a birdlover's paradise. A stopover for migrating species. Sorry I don't have any details on when is prime bird spotting season, but I am sure that you could find details somewhere with a google search.

Again, have a great time!

JRKite

Hi again all,

Italian Chauffeur, thanks so much for all your great info and websites. The travel log from Mina was fantastic!!! And, yes, definitely, that gets me started!

Irishface, I can't tell you how great that info on Fota and Saltee islands is! Exactly the type of thing I really need for planning! Any thoughts on the Dublin or Belfast zoos? Should I waste my time on either of those??

Next, in your opinions, is it cheaper to book everything seperately, or as a package (air, car, b&b's).

One more question, I would really like to see Giants Causeway, and have been told by so many not to miss it. However, most of the other areas I plan to spend most of my time is in the south and west. My biggest fear is not seeing it, and when or if I will be able to return.

Thanks again to everyone who is giving me advice. I couldn't do this without any of you!

Itallian_Chauffer

I BELIEVE that IrishRailTours offers a 'Day-Trip' to the Giant's Causeway out of Dublin. The tour leaves early in the AM via train to Belfast and then, I THINK it transfers to a bus. Return to Dublin is late -- 10PM or so.

I'll look for the link.

Meanwhile, I would buy the airfare --consider an 'open-jaw' (INTO Dublin - DUB- and OUT of Shannon - SNN - or vice versa ). It USUALLY doesn't cost any more and saves you having to spend a whole day, just getting BACK to catch your flight.

Once you've set your dates, flesh out a rough plan -- you don't need or want a car while in Dublin.

Book all of your Dublin nights first as the better places fill up early. If you opt to fly into SNN, book your first night's stay, as well. Once you've got that, THEN book your car rental.

So, yes, I AM advising that you do it yourself. Otherwise, you will be 'Locked-In' to someone elese's schedule, rather than your own.

Some other links that might interest you:

http://www.invectis.co.uk/cork/garnish.htm Garnish Island - Ilnacullin Gardens

Index of gardens, with interactive map:
http://www.castlesgardensireland.com/main/map.html

http://www.millstreetcountrypark.com/ They used to keep a herd of Irish Red deer -- dunno if they still do ...

There are also a number of animal sanctuaries for particularly for sheep, and donkeys, if you think that might interest you.

Some examples: http://www.klas-millstreet.net/news.php

http://www.thedonkeysanctuary.ie/sit...formation.html

Hope this helps more than it complicates your planning ---

Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

Here's the link to the Giant Causeway Day Trip:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35053840

Bob

blue74

I travelled to Ireland solo in my early 40's (7 years ago) and it was one of the best trips I've had. I rented a car and logged on some incredible amount of miles in my 10 days. I didn't feel the roads were as bad as people say. I would definitely get extra coverage though b.c. the roads can be narrow and of course you drive on the left. I think I did pretty much standard route through the South beginning in Galway and ending in Dublin. Stayed in Connemara after seeing the Cliffs of Mohr, Dingle Peninsula is a must, Kilarney, Cork, Waterford (only if you're interested in crystal), Kilkenny, and up to Dublin for a few days. If you're comfortable, get off the beaten track. I felt safer having comfortable hotels waiting for me at each stop(modest at that).
I booked through a central reservation co. so that the entire trip was planned through one service.Enjoy the million shades of green!Also, you might enjoy the movie "Once" before or after you go.