First Solo Trip - Paris Report
 

After reading others' solo trip reports and admiring their adventurous spirits, I finally talked myself into planning a solo trip of my own. There are a couple of people I really enjoy traveling with, but they weren't available and I had FF miles sitting in my account, waiting to be used. So in March I bit the bullet, got on the computer and put in October dates for six nights in Paris. Northwest replied with the departure date I had chosen, but with my return a day later than I had picked. O.K., so my trip was changed to seven nights - I definitely wasn't going to complain about having another night in Paris!

The flight: I flew on Northwest partner Delta on Tuesday, October 4th, going through Cincinnati. With Northwest, I usually connect through Detroit. I think it was jorr who told me that Cincinnati's airport was small and very easy to navigate. He was right. I had just the right amount of time to take the shuttle and catch the connecting flight without having to rush. The flight was uneventful and we arrived at CDG at 9 a.m. on Wednesday morning. It was after 9:30 by the time the shuttle got us to the terminal and the immigration line was quite long, so it was a little after 10:30 when I joined a couple with a teenage daughter in the Blue Van for our ride into Paris. They had an apartment in the 7th, so after dropping them off, I was taken to my hotel, which was in the Latin Quarter, right by Place St. Michel.

Since I have seen most of the major sights on previous trips and have used the metro extensively, I decided that, if my legs and feet were going to hurt at the end of the day, it would be from walking and exploring different neighborhoods rather than going up and down the metro steps. So I walked everywhere, putting on many, many miles as I wandered the streets of Paris day and night.

On my first day, after unpacking, I walked the two blocks to Notre Dame where I sat awhile and enjoyed one of my favorite things, people watching. I then walked over to Ile St. Louis, stopping to listen to street performers on the bridge, picking up some wine and dropping it off at the hotel before heading up rue St. Andre des Arts to Cafe Deux Magots to meet ggnga and Tod. I posted a report of our evening together along with some photos last week.

I tried to pick different areas to explore each day. One day I walked to Hotel de Ville and met a guide from Walks of Paris for a walking tour of the Marais. The guide was a nice looking young man of about 25 from St. Louis who has been living in Paris for a year. Matt doesn't know how much longer he'll stay in Paris, nor what he wants to be when he grows up. He's just thoroughly enjoying his job leading people through the streets, relating the history of this beautiful city. The tour ended at Pompidou Center, so on my way back to the 5th, I stopped at BHV and bought earrings for my sister and myself.

Another day I walked from Place St. Michel to rue Rivoli, over to rue Royale and up to La Madeleine. I didn't realize how far it was or how long it took because I was so busy ducking into little shops along the way. I picked up some mustard with bleu cheese at the Maille store and would have picked up some macaroons at Lauderee, but the line was really long to get in and I knew I had a long walk ahead of me back to the 5th.

My next long walk was to La Grande Epicerie, where I picked up a tin of Mariage Breakfast Earl Grey tea, some citron and chocolate tartelettes, more moutarde and some Terrine de Canard. There were many other things I would have liked to have bought, but would have had to carry them all the way back to the hotel and find room in my luggage to tote them home.

I explored the 6th, wandering along Blvd. St. Germain, rue de Seine, and rue Jacob and fell in love with that whole area. I went to Mass at St. Sulpice on Sunday morning, picking up an assortment of macaroons (and an Opera that was sitting on a lower shelf calling my name) from Gerard Mulot on my way back to the 5th. I spent that afternoon exploring some more of the Marais and attended Evensong at Notre Dame that evening. Another day I walked up rue Mouffetard, over to the Pantheon and on to Luxembourg Gardens for a picnic in the park. Some evenings when I was too tired to walk far, I'd join the throngs at Notre Dame, people watching and listening to street performers, or stroll over to the Pont des Arts and watch the bridge lights go on and the ET twinkle.

I ate breakfast at the hotel on two mornings; cafe, o.j., croissant, 1/2 baguette and yogurt for 6E. Other mornings I had cafe creme and pain chocolat at La Brioche Doree on Blvd. St. Michel. On a couple of days, for lunch, I walked over to the marketplace at Place Maubert and picked up a mini baguette and olives, then stopped at a market on rue Lagrange for pate, spreadable camembert and a jar of citron yogurt for picnics at Luxembourg Gardens or Square Rene Viviani. While exploring the Marais, I picked up a falafal at Chez Marianne and ate it sitting in the sun at Place des Vosges. Then, the day of my long trek from La Madeleine back to my hotel, I stopped at La Terrasse de Pomone in the Tuileries for a Croque Monsieur and glass of wine. Of course, during my daily wanderings, I made several stops at outdoor cafes to rest my feet and enjoy a glass of Sancerre.

As some of you may remember from a post before my trip, I had some issues about eating dinner alone. Well, I overcame those issues really fast. One evening I went back to Restaurant L'Insulaire on rue Gregoire de Tours where I had dinner with ggnga and Tod. This time I had mussels, veal with fries and green beans, and a carmel custard with 1/2 bottle of Sancerre. I was also given a complementary kir. At Brasserie Balzar, they furnished toasted bread rounds with an olive tapenade, so I skipped the starter, and had the roasted chicken with fries, and carmel custard (again), with the house wine. At Le Caveau de l'Isle on Ile St. Louis, I had onion soup, duck with plum sauce served over a mound of scalloped potatoes, citron sorbet, and a glass of house wine. One evening I stopped at a small cafe (can't remember the name) and had a ham and cheese crepe, and another night I just picked up a Greek Gyro in the Latin Quarter.

The day before I left, I went back to Gerard Mulot and picked up a box of assorted macaroons to bring home. (I still have my empty pink Gerard Mulot box sitting on my counter - can't quite bring myself to throw it away yet!) I also brought home a couple boxes of Bonne Maman Tartelettes which, during my first week home, I enjoyed for breakfast with my Earl Grey tea (it made the transition of leaving Paris and coming home a little easier!)

I want to thank the Fodorites who encouraged me to make my first solo trip and any others who gave me valuable information. After many trips where I spent my time running from one sight to another, this week in Paris was so special because I was able to take my time and take in the sights, sounds, aromas and beauty that is Paris. And as for going solo? I'd do it again in a heartbeat!

Thanks for posting, Travgina. Sounds like a nice time!

Wow, what a very nice trip report this is, travgina. I'm glad you had a nice solo trip and overcame your fear of dining solo.

I am hungry again! I can’t wait to go solo myself. Thanks for your report. I am glad you enjoyed it.

I agree. I admit I want some touristic soupe a l'oignon.

Thanks for sharing, Gina. So glad you had a nice time. And thanks for conjuring up some great memories!

Where did you stay? How was the weather? Where did you have your favorite meal? Did you meet any interesting people? Do tell!

Hello there Gina!
Thanks so much for your lovely trip report - I agree, walking is the best way to REALLY see Paris!
I have been admiring your photos and love the one of the lady on her bike sitting talking on her cellphone. Also the one of your last night in Paris! Did you not have one of ggna,you & I?
I was in Jardin Luxembourg on the same Saturday except in the afternoon.
I did not know about Le Grande Epicerie or would have tried there for smoked paprika - do you think they would have it?
Best wishes - Tod

Iregeo: I stayed at Hotel Mont Blanc. It's a 2** half a block from Place St. Michel. I wanted to be in a lively area, close to everything, and Crepes-a-go-go gave it a good review last year when she went to study in France. The staff was very accommodating, the rooms were of course small, and the lift went to the 5th floor, so I had to walk one flight to my 6th floor room. I had asked for a street side room, but was given one at the back. However, as I was unpacking, the front desk called and stated that he had reread one of my emails and would be happy to move me the next morning. So I was moved to a little larger room with french doors opening to overlook the street, plus I got the added perk of a bigger shower. The street was very noisy at night, but with the doors closed I didn't hear a thing. There was a charming and cozy breakfast room in the basement, and all in all, I was very happy with my choice.

Hi tod! I'm sure you would have found your smoked paprika at La Grande Epicerie as they had just about anything you could ask for.

I thought of you on Tuesday. As I recall, your friends were leaving that day, and if I had remembered where you were staying, I would have tried to reach you so we could have gotten together that evening (my last night).

Yes, I have a picture of the three of us, but felt I shouldn't put photos of others online without their permission. Who knows, one of us may be in the witness protection program - lol.

Travgina,

Thanks for a nice trip report. I am glad to hear that Gerard Mulot has reopened, as I'll be in Paris next month.

Woody

Travgina, You may be my travel twin! I so enjoyed your trip report, in part because it reminded me so much of my solo trip to Paris this past September. We stayed in roughly the same neighborhood and walked or went to most of the same places. I'm so glad that you had a good time. This was my second solo trip to Paris, and I think its the perfect place to be on your own. I'm already daydreaming about going back.

I too walked ALL OVER the city and was happy to find my clothes fitting looser, and not tighter, by the time I returned home! And like you, I overcame my discomfort about dining alone. I actually quite liked it. I particularly enjoyed my meals at Aux Charpentiers and Rotisserie d'en Face. The service at both was very welcoming.

Thanks again for sharing,

Kate

Your trip sounds wonderful - and similar to one I did in Paris two years ago. I walked everywhere too and loved it.

I just got back from a two-week stint in Italy with a travel companion (she was very nice) - but I so need the ability to do what I want, when I want without having to consider another person's needs/wants. I've decided that solo travel is for me in the future.

Glad that dining alone worked out for you. It is becoming more and more common to see single travelers and the old cliche of putting the single woman back by the kitchen just doesn't happen anymore - at least in my experience.

There's nothing at tripadvisor, nor much anywhere else on this hotel, thought I'd add some info here

Hotel du Mont Blanc
28 rue de la Huchette, 5th
Tel : +33(0)1 43 54 22 29
Fax : +33(0)1 46 34 14 56
Metro/RER St Michel
Singles currently start at 65 euro, doubles start at 85 euro
They also have triple and quad rooms
Restaurant on the premises, Le Jardin du Roy
www.france-hotelguide.com/h75005montblanc.htm

Hi Travgina, great report. I just had my first solo trip too (also to Paris but only for four days) and found the experience very enjoyable.

Paris is so beautifuly walkable! I wished I had taken my pedometer with me. I am sure I would have recorded 10 mile days easily.

Loved what you did in Paris! Walking/strolling in Paris is also my favorite thing to do! Not a museum goer at all! When there, I did wear a pedometer and in a week in Provence and a week in Paris, I walked 196 miles! I was able to eat ANYTHING I wanted and lost a couple of pounds! Brought back some great memories and more excitement for my trip next summer! The photos are great also! Traveling solo is wonderful!

Travgina - you're right about the photo-thing - who knows??? Anytime you want the most happiest of photos(the 3 of us) just give me an email address (or even a Box number and I will post a printed one to you).
My business email is: [email protected] -where you can give an answer.

Travgina,
Congratulations on your first solo trip, I think you picked the perfect city! Really like your photos, my favorite is the glass of sancerre.
Time to start planning the next trip :)

Mike

Aren't solo trips great? I just went to Paris by myself (then went on to Normandy, Bruge, Brussels & Amsterdam) and had a great time!

I did pretty much what you did in Paris, walked around a lot, but since it was my first time, I hit a lot of the highlights.

I also have a couple of people that I like to travel with but they weren't available, that's not going to stop me! Also, I would much rather be traveling alone than traveling with someone who gets on my nerves and ruins the whole trip. My sister traveled with a very good friend to Hawaii, and ever since they have barely talked.

I'm still getting my pictures organized and uploading on Webshots, as soon as I'm done with that, I'll post a trip report and link to the pictures.

Travgina, I'm going to to copy your report and save it for future trip to Paris, 'cause I will return!

Here is the address for Hotel Mont Blanc:

http://www.france-hotel-guide.com/h75005montblanc.htm

Iregeo, I didn't answer all of your questions. When I arrived on Wednesday it was overcast and hazy, and continued to be so for the next two days. Then on Saturday the sun came out and it was beautiful for the rest of my stay. I only wore my jacket the first evening. The rest of the time a light sweater or turtleneck with lightweight knit vest worked well. I was surprised to see how many people were bundled up when the temps were around 68-70 degrees each day.

My favorite meal was at Le Caveau de l'Isle. The onion soup and canard were both outstanding. I would rate the presentation of my meal and all others I saw being served an A+. Each plate looked so pretty that I wanted to take pictures of them! The service was great and the atmosphere was warm and inviting.

I met quite a few people, mostly while dining. A man from San Francisco, a woman from Colorado, two ladies from Boston, and couples from Chicago, Myrtle Beach and Toledo.

One evening while walking along the Seine on my way to to Pont des Arts, a young blonde girl approached me and asked how to get to Ste. Chapelle. Imagine how pleased I was to be able to give her directions!

Indygirl2: I agree, Paris is the perfect place to be on your own. Like you, I'm already envisioning a return trip.

Tod: Watch your email.

Gina

Thanks for a wonderful and information-filled report.