Eilean Iarmin is not formal. Nice, but not formal.

wow, thanks again. Fodorites rule! :-)

meks, thanks for the heads-up about driving that far north-west corner. I had read some about the single-track roads -- but since we have family in English west country (Dorset and Cornwall) we have encountered those single-track roads frequently. Not sure about Scotland -- but the English version is often a deep lane between high hedgerows that may conceal large boulders or a ditch. Oh, and the hedgerows prevent you from seeing cars coming the other way until you meet. Hopefully not head on...;-)

In my earlier post, I explained about our connection to clan Mackay and Cape Wrath, which is why we want to go there despite the complexities.

I had been wondering about the midges. When I grew up in England, we had what we called midges -- annoying little bugs that swarm in damp places, but not really hazardous. Are the Scottish ones the same, or a different critter that raises an itchy bite? Are they like the "lovely" black flies that plague the mountains of New England in late spring? I live in New England, where mosquitoes and ticks are our summer bugs of concern -- especially now that we have to be concerned about West Nile and Lyme disease. Deet (30%+) is the best repellent for those; would it work for midges too? When we went to Nigeria, we used Ultrathon which was very effective (and easy to pack). Will midges still be around in September?

The single track roads are not the same as the deep lanes of southern England. They are in the main twisting roads going round hills and other obstacles as they travel up the rugged coast and across the peat lands. Driving is similar in that you are constantly looking to avoid oncoming vehicles and the sheep and the deer which are roaming about at the sides of the road. If they get startled they have a tendency to sudenly run across the road in front of you and they can cause quite a bit of damage to your car.
The Scottish midge is a nightmare. It is very small and they can keep on coming in their hundreds from the wet pet bogs and lochs. They may not be in their usual numbers by September but they will still be a major nuisance.
Mackay country is superb, it is rugged and beautiful. The tranquility and the scenery are well worth the time taken to reach such a remote area and as you have Mackay connections it is a must. You will find when you travel up there, is that the people are very friendly and helpful.
I am pleased to hear that you are going there and it is just a pity that more people even those living in Scotland, do not go up more often to visit this area. A visit to some of the beaches at Durness, Skerray and Bettyhill (Farr Bay) are a must see. Enjoy your stay and give this forum a review when you return.

I should have mentioned that the Scottish Midge will draw blood and this can cause swelling and possibly blisters. They will aim for the hot moist areas of the body eg the back of hands, wrists, necks and eyes. They will even get down trousers or skirts and they try to go to bed with you so you have been warned.

We encountered midges in droves at the end of August, but not every day. The weather had to be just right (or wrong, I guess) - I think still air was the key, as the wind seems to send them away. Not as big as black flies, more like the "no see 'ums" of the southeastern US.

Don't fret too much about the single track roadsup north and on Skye. Especially if you're familiar w/ the ones down south. Meks' post makes them sound like hell. I find the single tracks in Scotland are MUCH easier than the ones in Devon/Cornwall/Dorset. No hedgerows or high walls - mostly wide open land and little traffic. You can usually see far ahead and there are lots of passing places that are well marked. I drive them solo on many trips and have no problems (well, except for when there are sheep or highland cattle in the middle of the road - now <b>that</b> can slow you down)

&quot;there seems to be a bit of a disconnect between their timeframes and the AA's&quot; I use the AA's website to get routes but if we're going any further than Glasgow, I find their driving times are always low - I'd say that generally what they say is a 6 hour drive is more like an 8 hour drive - plus refreshment breaks.

I grew up in England too &amp; Scottish midges are definitely different from English ones : I never had a problem with English ones, but Scottish ones have a effect similar to mosquitoes or sandflies on me. They must be a different species.

Sorry if I gave the impression that the roads are hell but they are tricky especially in August / September when there are also numerous visitors on the road and a lot of them are looking at the scenery and wildlife. Cars / campers can generally be seen some distance away (apart from blind corners) but the sheep, cattle and occasional deer on the road can and will slow you down. Just take your time and enjoy the coastline. Further inland the scenery changes and the barren peat bog land can be very eary and dramatic.

I wouldn't want to be blase about midges, but they're really not that bad. they bite. They're a pain in the ass.

Use Avon &quot;Skin so Soft&quot; or Autan as a repellant.

The last couple of years we've had these midge death machines on every outdoor patio in the north.

You'll be fine.

PS, I never yet saw a midge that could draw blood. Clegs, yes. Midges, no.

If midges are a pain in the @ss, you're wearing the wrong clothes...

Irritating but nothing fatal. I'd honestly be rather surprised if midges were much of a factor by mid-September in the NW, but not all years are the same.

It's great to hear of folks visiting NW Sutherland - remarkable area.

One recommendation I'd make (I always make this recommendation when I hear of people going up to the north coast) - when you turn south, try to do so on an un-numbered road that branches from the A838 (the Durness - Tongue road) on the south east shore of Loch Eriboll. It runs down Strath More and eventually connects to the A836 at Altnaharra, from which one can carry on to Lairg, Bonar and the south.

Partway down this road, you'll encounter a 2000+ y.o. broch, <i>Dun Dornadilla.</i> It's a remarkable scene - this (really) empty road, Ben Hope looming behind you, and evidence of human occupation since, well, forever, in front of you. IMO not to be missed.

Where else could I get such great information? Thanks so much.

Now I get that midges are more like no-seeums, I understand better. I've fallen victim to those little blighters in south Florida...Yes, I'll definitely be packing my Deep Woods deet and my Buzz Off shirt!

Ever since I started reading about Sutherland and the far northwest, I have wanted to see it. I want to learn more about the story of Bettyhill and the clearances. I want to drive over those high empty places, and see the Cape Wrath view that Best of Scotland describes as &quot;morose and Ibsen-like&quot;...

Gardyloo, I'm going to get the map out and check that route, add it to the list. (Loved your RTW blog, by the way - an inspiration, we would love to do that one day, not too far off.)

And now we're off to DC for the weekend to see our daughter. Time to decide which plan, and get moving!

If you're interested in the clearances, then also don't miss a visit to Croick church, 10 miles or so up Strath Carron from Ardgay (across the river from Bonar Bridge.) The pitiful messages scratched in the church windowpanes by the evicted families temporarily lodged in the churchyard are still there to be seen.

IF you're interested in the Clearances you should read John Prebble's book on the subject for general background, but Ian Grimble's trilogy focuses on the Mackay country and finishes with &quot;the Trial of Patrick Sellar&quot; (the others being &quot;the Chief of Clan Mackay&quot; and &quot;the World of Robb Donn&quot;).

Sellar was the factor for the Sutherland estates and teh man (allegedly) responsible for those church windows at Strath Carron.

You might, in fact be interested in this list:-

http://www.scottish-books.net/books....mp;bookcat=s47

As you are interested in the Clearances and Bettyhill then as you travel from Tongue to Bettyhill look for and take the road to Skerray. It will take you passed a few croft houses and as you go down into the village itself you will see on the hillside ahead of you and slightly to the right, the very old lotts or rigs. Most of these were started at the time of the clearances. As you pass through Lotts you will come to the Post Office and next to that there is - Jimsons Croft - which is a very local museum and in that you will be able to see some of the records and history of the area plus old photographs. It also has the names of those settling there at the time of the clearances. The staff at the Post Office and the office are extremely helpful.

Similarly if you go through Bettyhill you will come to the Tourist Information offices - which incidentally is also a good place to stop for a coffee etc. Near to that building is the old Church / Museum and you may wish to take time looking about that and the gravestones.
The main clearances in that area were in Strathnaver and it worth a visit as you will be so close. Retrace your way back through Bettyhill and you will come to the junction with the B871 road and that will take you down Strathnaver to Syre the home of the infamous Patrick Sellar. Most of this land was cleared during the Clearances by Sellar and his men. His house in Syre can still remains standing to this day. At the crossroads near to this house take the roadsignposted Kinbrace and just across the River Naver you will see the signs for the Rossall - one of the main villages cleared so brutally by Sellars men. You can walk along the forrest trail beside the river and it will take you to the very tranquil but ruined village where many of the outlines of the croft houses can still be seen.

When you leave Rosall depending on your time you may wish to go along the road to Kinbrace during which you will pass Garvalt Hotel -the remotest hotel in the UK before reaching Kinbrace. Turn south to Helmsdale and visit the Timespan exhibition which again gives the history etc of that area. Helmsdale is on the A9 and that will take you south to Edinburgh but the journey will take a good 5 hours.

Alternatively you may wish to retrace to Syre and then continue south through Altnahara to Lairg where the single track roads finish.