First London visit: BH
 

I shall welcome your advice on a note I am writing to reply to the frequent question of what to see from people on their first visit to London, a week s visit. It will be easy to write too long a list, so when you suggest an addition please would you very kindly suggest an equivalent deletion ?

I think the first thing, on the day of arrival, is a bus top guided tour of main sights, to see what they look like and ready for visits on later days. Then if the visitors plan the Museum of London they should go there next, to get a view of London s history through time, to let them know during visits on later days where their visit slots into time. After that the top attractions for visitor numbers are Buckingham Palace, Westminster, Whitehall, St Paul s and the Tower. But they have a week, so can see much more. They should group their visits, and cover an area a day. On their first day they should use a passport photo to buy a one week two zone London Travel card, and pick up a bus map at any tube station. Then they should travel short distances outside the rush hour on the tops of busses, and other journeys by tube.

The Science Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum and perhaps the Albert Memorial and Kensington Palace. Perhaps tea in the Orangery. South Kensington tube. I suggest lunch at the Daquise Polish restaurant, by the tube station

Harrods store, Knightsbridge tube, or bus from South Kensington. There are good meals at the Nags Head, 53 Kinnerton Street, and the Wilton Arms, 71 Kinnerton Street.

Starting from Victoria Station the Royal Mews, the Queens Gallery, and Buckingham Palace. The Palace is a large, dull, grey building, and I do not know why people go there. From the palace walk through St James Park beside the lake, feed the royal ducks, do not walk on the very dull Mall. I suggest lunch at the Two Chairmen, just outside the Gardens, a block from St James Park tube station.

Up to the south east corner of St James Park. Westminster Abbey (opens early, 9.30), view Parliament and Big Ben, the London Eye, Ten Downing Street, The Cabinet War Rooms on King Charles Street, the Banqueting Hall, Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery (half a day), the National Portrait Gallery (two hours: twice a week closes late at 9pm), lunch in Gordon s Wine Bar on Villiers Street near Embankment tube station, ten minutes walk east along the Strand, Somerset House for the Courtauld Gallery and Russian Imperial Collection, weekday lunch upstairs at the Devereaux Arms, between the Courts of Justice and the gate of the Middle Temple

Church of St Bartholomew the Great (Farringdon tube), Museum of London, St Paul s Cathedral, Tate Modern

The Tower (opens early, 9am: takes 2 ? hours at least) and Tower Bridge

The British Library by Kings Cross St Pancras tube, British Museum (2 hours at least: I suggest weekday lunch in MacMillan s refectory on the ground floor of Senate House), Sir John Soan s Museum, Holborn tube.

For later visits people consider their own tastes and interests, dig into London, and find small museums, hidden corners, and little known suburbs, and go there.

What not to do is worth listing.
Madame Tussaud?s. The National Portrait Gallery does the job better, and free
The London Dungeon and the Clink. OK for sado-masochists, but few of us are. Otherwise, emetic.
The changing of the guard, at either site. Lots of waiting in heat or cold, and not a lot to see.
Big Ben: So what ?
Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. Crowded, good for pickpockets, littered, and run-down.

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For a first visit that is a pretty good list - I would probably add Tate Britain -- IF they are gallery "types", and a boat trip. Would also add Covent Garden - but they don't need to make a special journey of it if they attend a nearby theatre.

one minor point - weekly travel cards for zones 1 or 1-2 no longer require a photo.

Actually Leicester Square is sort of a "must" if they want to get discount theatre tix. But it is so close to the Nat'l Gallery/Portrait Gallery that they can just drop by while in the area.

There are a hundred other great places of course - but not ones that many folks would get to on a FIRST visit.

On a short visit the only out of town day trip would probably be Hampton Court Palace.

I love the Banqueting Hall - but that is the one site that jumps out as being expendable from your list.

Dear Mr Haines, interesting list.

Sine most people have heard about Hyde Park from childhood,perhaps a walk along The Serpentine would be more appealing than visiting Harrod's?

After Tate Modern, a walk down the path to Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market(even tourists would enjoy something not touristy?).

In the night,London's skylineis is always fascinating,perhaps spare one evening from shows to take a walk by Hungerford Bridge accross The Thames, then along the south bank.

What a wonderful post! Thank you, am leaving for first visit next week.

Question: is (are?) the Museum of London and the British Museum the same? I have been looking forward to viewing the antiquities I've heard about that are in the British Museum...Rosetta Stone, Elgin Marbles, etc. Have not heard of the Museum of London.

For all: Many thanks. I am amending as you write.

For Sheila 946: The two museums differ. As you say, the famous museum is the British Museum, and it is famous for things that are not British, but are among the best in the world from the great cultures of the past. Upstairs there are stunning rooms for Roman Britain and Anglo-Saxon Britain, but the droves of tourists do not go upstairs. So that gives you British history to 1066. After that, the only museum in London to give a sequence of studies of our past, century by century, is the Museum of London, near Barbican and St Paul s tube stations. So I do see it as the best basis for visiting in London with some idea in your head of how each place you see slots in with the life and times of this city.

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Ben, good list and basic flow of events.

I disagree about not seeing Big Ben. Americans strongly associate that with London. Viewing Big Ben, Parliment buildings and Westminister Abbey is a classic "must do" in my mind. Its usually the first thing I do in London.

I'd delete the Tate Modern, but that's just me. I see enough of that kind of weird stuff when I throw out my garbage or spill food in the kitchen.

Also think the Palace is a often a big disapointment and waste of time.

Maybe we should include a few other smaller, but very nice things like: a walk on the South Bank, a trip to Greenwhich, eating at an indian resturant, afternoon tea, a visit to a local market .... .

The successful itinerary I use for first time/first day visitors to London (which I guide several-family and friends) is to take the tube to Green Park, walk across Park to Buckingham, walk through St. James Park to Trafalgar Square, short visit to National Gallery (visitor can decide if they want to return later), walk down Whitehall (Horse Guards, 10 Downing) to Houses of Parliment, Big Ben, look at Eye (visitor may be interested in riding), visit Westminster Abbey (take on of the Verger-led tours at 11 or 14 if there on time). If still early in the day take bus #11 towards Liverpool St. (one of the original double deckers that travels down the Strand) to St. Pauls (Ludgate Circus Stop), have lunch in Crypt Cafe, climb the dome. If visitor still has energy/time will walk across the Thames via the Millenium Bridge to Tate Modern for a peak and visit Shakespeare's Globe.

Of course this itinerary is adjusted according to the energy level and interests of the visitor.

Ben, you are such a great resource! Your many posts helped plan my trip to London in January this past year.

Some thoughts from my own trip, which actually included 10 days in London and 4 days outside of it:

I didn't do the London Eye or the on/off bus tour and didn't really feel like I missed much - I saw the city on the rest of the trip, so I didn't see the need to see it all in the first day. But that's just me, I know a lot of people love it.

The only museum we went to was British Museum (although I would have liked to visit V&A). If people are not museum fans, I'd add other things instead.

We walked through Kensington Gardens but did not spend the 11 GBP to go into Kensington Palace.

I loved both Hampton Court Palace and Windsor Castle.

If you are a Shakespeare nut like me, the Globe Theatre is a must.

I'd recommend seeing at least one play while in London.

It's kind of funny - I did less than 1/2 the things on your list, and a pretty "fast" tourist, and still managed to fill in 10 days in your wonderful city.

Thank you so much for all your wonderful posts on this board - they really help people a lot.

(For my next trip, I am relying on the wonderful Maribel, as I am traveling to Spain in February).

Karen

kaudrey and I are on the same wavelength -- I spent two weeks in London, and never went on the Eye or a bus tour. I can get my orientation from a map, and IMHO it's a complete waste of time to spend a precious half-day looking at the outsides of places that I'll be coming back to. Harrods and the Orangerie were disappointments (though we were there in summer 2001, just before the latter closed for renovations; and I'm just not a shopper).

Our list of must-sees also included the Globe, and the gardens at Kew. We enjoyed the National Portrait Gallery, but other art galleries (except maybe Impressionists) bore us to tears. Highlights of our trip included not only Sir John Soane's but also the Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret.

Every visitor is different in not only their interests but also their pace. I'd rather spend a full day at one or two places, learning them in depth, than dash around to 4 or 5.

I cannot agree with the basic strategy of "For later visits people consider their own tastes and interests, dig into London, and find small museums, hidden corners, and little known suburbs, and go there." IMHO, visitors should do some of that on their first visit, and save the more popular destinations for another time.

I do, however, agree completely with ben's list of places to pass on, such as Madame Tussaud's and the London Dungeon.

ben, thanks so much for pulling all of those places and things together in that effective of an order.

I think people will disagree with you only on the margins as you have hit it pretty much right on.

Buckingham Palace was a disappointment for me, but most Americans will flock to it on a first visit. Guess its best to go with the flow on that one.

I agree that a walk through Kensington Gardens is nice and perhaps tea is good, but Kensington Palace is not special enough for me to spend 11 pounds. I don't know if folks that do visit, ever go back again.

Drop Tate Modern

Add a walk, a market visit and a few pubs in the evening.

What about covent garden?

Boy do I love this kind of post! Here's my contribution:

I would delete the Science Museum (plenty of science museums, and I'm more of a history buff) and Tower Bridge (it's great to look at from the Tower, but the whole "experience" inside is no big deal. Plus, the views of London are equally amazing from the Eye, which I think is a must.)

One of our favorite things about London is all the beautiful parks. I think St. James is the prettiest, but Hyde Park is maybe more well known to Americans, so I'd include a walk through there past the Serpentine.

As great as London itself is, I think one day trip out of town should be included. I can't choose between Hampton Court Palace and Greenwich for that -- they each are marvelous. The history of the Palace is fabulous, the costumed guides do an excellent job, and the whole place evokes everyday (royal) life to a degree that I haven't found elsewhere. On the other hand, taking a boat down the Thames to Greenwich and then going to the National Maritime Museum (especially the gallery devoted to Lord Nelson) and the Royal Observatory have been highlights of past trips for us.

I think time of year also designated "must-sees." In the winter, ice skating at Somerset House is great fun!
In the late summer, I think the summer openings at Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament are wonderful. I agree that the outside of the Palace and the Changing of the Guard are easily missed, but I was terribly impressed by the inside of the Palace. The tours of the Houses of Parliament illustrated a lot of the protocol that goes on and was very interesting, and then walking in Westminster Hall which is so old and has seen so much history was incredible!

I also second the receommendation of Daquise near the South Kensington tube stop -- we eat there every time we are in London -- it's local, not touristy, reasonably priced, and delicious (the potato pancakes are my favorite!).

Annette

Hi Ben,

Excellent idea and very good advice.

I would delete the London Eye (an abomination that I refuse to look at) and the Tate Modern, except for people who like that kind of thing, and suggest adding a visit to the Speaker's Corner at Hyde Park on a Sunday morning.

Hi Ben

Great product, but ...

Drop Tate Modern

Drop Kensington Palace

Suggest Horse Guards Parade instead of Buckingham Palace

Drop Science Museam

Do either Harrods or Fortnum and Masons

Add Apsley House

Add St. Martin?s Church/Crypt

Add Tate Britian

Add Covent Garden

add Indian food

add three or four historic pubs for an evening pub crawl

Add daytrip to Greenwich

hi Ben

Great thread

Can you include either here or in another new thread an evening pub crawl?

Not looking for a drunken night out on the town. Let's make it four historic places (nice interior and exterior)fairly close together where one could have a friendly late afternoon drink, some pub grub for dinner and then a walk, followed by a final drink or so for the road close to a handy tube station?

This is so helpful for first timers (ours to be next spring)! Keep the advice coming!

All: Many thanks: the essay is coming on well, like a good rissole. I shall use something like square brackets [ ] to summarise opinions you give here.

Ira: I do agree about the London Eye. Why should we imitate Vienna a century later ? But who are we mong so many ?

annettetx: This could easily get too long, so I hope you will forgive me if use your helpful comtribution to put seasonal things into a new note. I habitually write a piece on the forum on 2 December on the glories of London until 23 December ? and the horrors thereafter.

ChatNoir: I am pleased to tell you that I do not know a pub crawl in London. I am a cyclist, and both sense and the law forbid me to drink and cycle. The police are still entitled to stop me, ask me to say The Leith Police Dismisseth Us, and to walk along a chalk line, and take me before the magistrate. They cannot breathalyse me, but on conviction the magistrate will order my driving licence marked in my disfavour. And I doubt I can find my driving licence, so for me the straight and narrow. You, on the other hand, may well be just the walker to open a similar forum correspondence, with a draft essay on a pub crawl that you like.

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"The police are still entitled to stop me, ask me to say The Leith Police Dismisseth Us, "

I'm a goner! I don't think I can say that even sober.

ben, sorry - I had forgotten about you being a devout bike rider.

Did not intend to imply you were a big boozer and would be an expert in those areas as well.

Not much of a drinker myself, but thought it would appeal to many Americans for the atmosphere and maybe a rare opportunity to strike up a conversation with a local. Guess it would have to be well off the usual tourist track for that to happen.

Even a foreigner (I mean somebody not from London) can join a conversation in a pub. The technique is to greet a couple of people as you come in with a short nod and Good Evening, take the advice of people at the bar when you order your pint, stay at the bar, listen to the conversation, and after two minutes to put in your word of agreement. It is not yet your privilege to disagree. Agreement through an illustration of the point from your home town goes well. As soon as you can, fall silent for two minutes, then rejoin, and after five minutes you can even disagree, with great courtesy and hesitancy. Conversations at tables are normally private, but if people you are talking with at the bar move to a table you can readily ask whether you may join them. And away you go. Touchy subjects, best left till later, are women, religion, and politics. Boring subjects are the weather and how nice your home town is.

So there you are: a ready made paragraph for your coming forum essay on a pub crawl in London.

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Ben
Did you include the cercmony of the keys? I have tickets for 3 November. This will be the third time I have seen the ceremony and for a history buff it's a must see.
janis noted that a photo is no longer required for weekly travel cards. I believe you investigated this for me at an earlier date and advised that photos are still erquired for the 7 day travel cards. To play it safe I am taking several passport size photos with me. the timing of your posting couldn't be better as we leave on monday for 9 days in London.