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Firenze and Paris
Beginning December 14 my husband and I (adventuresome and mature enough that we get a senior discount at the movies even though only one of us is legally entitled to it) will spend five nights in Florence and six nights in Paris. Hooray!
We have air, hotels and museums all arranges and hope forum readers can provide some answers on other matters. FIRENZE AND PARIS: 1. We are from southern southern California and clueless about daily trekking in December weather in these two places. Suggestions, especially for comfortable footgear that will survive rain, are very much needed. 2. After about two hours in a museum all the visuals run togehter - any suggestions for some in between breaks? We'll have a museum pass for Paris and timed entry for Firenze. 3. We love good food and would welcome recommendations. We don't mind spending for special experiences and have also found some of our best food memories come also from tiny plain places. One specific question: Jules Verne yes or no? 3. Recommendations for Jazz or other evening fun (no hip hop, no rap) 4. Firenze - what time is the midday shop closing? Does this change during Christmas shopping season? How late are they open? Also I have seen vague web site info about "special" activities in Firenze in the couple weeks before Christmas but can find nothing for 2006. Any ideas? 5. Is a train day trip to Rome sensible? 6. Any advice on a guided Brunello tour? We prefer Montalcino wines to Chianti even though some think it a sacrilege. 7. Last -- any special issues getting transport to Roissy-CDG on Christmas Day? Many thanks to all. I've never tried a forum posting before and appreciate your responses greatly. Regards, Quinn Adams |
what a wonderful time you'll have!! AS to the day trip to Rome -- have you been there before? I'd go either way, but was just curious, and would obviously make a difference in what you decided to see for the day!!) I'm just home from 2 weeks in Rome and did the reverse - a day trip to Florence. Fast train (think it was 1 1/2 hour ride thru lovely scenery) and both train stations are situated for easy transit/touring.
have a great time!! |
Here are some ideas for restaurants in Florence. My daughter had studied there last semester, and these two were her favorites. It's from my trip report, which you can find by clicking on my name above, if you want more information about Florence.
"The afternoon we arrived, my daughter took me to a rooftop café, which overlooks the Duomo. It is on the top of a nice little ‘department’ store. I think it’s called Ristorante Ottorino, via delle Oche, 12-16r. We enjoyed wine and salads, on the sunny afternoon, with a close-up view of the Duomo. A very nice introduction to Florence for me. ... That evening, my daughter recommended one of her favorite restaurants, the Trattoria Garga on Via del Moro 48/R, phone 055 2398898. We had an amazing meal there, probably my best in Italy. My dish was veal with avocado, which sounds odd (most really good dishes do, I think), and was mouth-watering. Our waiter was a riot-- singing and joking all over the restaurant. It was a friendly, lively, bustling atmosphere with excellent food. We paid 81EUR for two, with a half-liter of house wine. ...After the Accademia, we found a place to sit on the patio and enjoy a nice lunch, at Trattoria Za-Za, at Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26R. It's popular with business people, and we enjoyed nice omelettes there. Lunch for two, with a glass of wine for each, was 25.50EUR. ...We returned to our hotel, to get ready for dinner, again at one of my daughter’s favorite restaurants, Acqua Al 2 (pronounced 'aqua al duo'), Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40/R, phone 055 284170. They are known for their perfect steak with balsamic. I had it and was impressed. (They are now opening a restaurant in San Diego, believe it or not.) This restaurant is known throughout Florence, and is very popular, so it gets loud and crowded, but very worth it, even though the service was a tad spotty. We split a half-liter of house red wine, and we paid 50.70EUR for two dining." And from my trip report to Paris in 2005: "Had our favorite meal on Ille St. Louis, at Le Caveau de l’Isle, at 36 rue Saint-Louuis en l’Isle. Great menu, with a three-course fixed prix around 30 EU. Excellent and friendly service. Small and atmospheric place." Have a great trip! :)>- |
Heartily agree with the Acqua al 2 recommendation. My sister, niece and I ate there twice in mid-October. Try the blueberry steak (steak with a blueberry-flavored "gravy"). Open 7:30 pm. - 1:00 am. Reservations only.
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Quinn,
Even though we just returned from Italy, I am envious of your upcoming trip! Ican't get enough. I'm sure you'll have no problem finding " in between" activities in Paris. Could a cup of coffee ever taste better than at a sidewalk cafe in Paris? And could "resting your dogs" ever feel less like time-wasted than on a bench along the Seine. I doubt it. Last year we visited Paris...our first visit to Europe. We had one of the BEST dinners ever at a tiny restaurant called Restaurante Argenteuil on a street of the same name (behind the Normandy hotel.) Complete dinner for the two of us was about 80 Euros, and just a little over 100 with wine, coffee and desert. Not cheap, but it remains on my list of my 5 Best dinners ever. Also, I am on a lifelong search for the ultimate creme brulee, and theirs is currently in first place. This is in 1st Arrond., not too far from Louvre. We just returned from a wonderful 2 weeks in Italy. Unfortunately we only had one day in Florence (we were on a cruise.) but we managed to have a nice lunch just a couple blocks from the Academie. I think it was called Trattoria Antiche. Whatever you do, I know you'll have a great time. |
Recently returned from 2 weeks in Italy, one week spent in Montalcino. I can highly recommend a day trip to the area using a private guided tour with Luca Garapa of www.hillsandroads.com. If you do a search for his name on this board, you will find many glowing recommendations.
As to restaurants, my favorite in Firenze is Quattro Leoni near the Palazzo Pitti. |
Hi QA,
I think that most folks would recommend a week in Rome. I'd do it as a separate trip. This visit, you might want to visit Siena and Bologna. Don't forget to take the no. 7 bus from the SMN train station up to Fiesole (1E 20 min) to watch the sun set over the city from the terrace of the Bar Bleu. (They have heaters.) ((I)) |
Another great "in between" iea in Firenze--hot chocolate! Incredibly thick and puddinglike . . .
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Thanks so much to everyone for your responses! In answer:
MOMOFRAJAH -- we have never been to Rome so especially welcome day trip ideas. MAUREENB -- thanks for the delicious suggestions; my mouth is watering and I can't wait. Will heed your suggestion about reservations and check your trip reports. COOKIEDOG - a second for Acqua al 2 cinches it. Blueberry steak sounds amazing! Do we need to reserve before we get to Florence? HANABILLY - the Restaurante Argetneuil sounds delicious and creme brulee is a favorite here, too! Thanks for that and for the reminder that relaxing on a bench along the Seine is one of life's better experiences! FLAME123 - thanks much for the hills and roads heads up. checked their site and it sounds just perfect. A week in Montalcino -- heaven!! We'll give Quattro Leoni a try. So much great food, so little time! IRA -- thanks for the Fiesole sunset suggestion -- we would never have known otherwise and are now looking forward to it. WELLENM - Hot chocolate!! yes, yes, yes. Thanks again to all. I now envision us having to be rolled onto the airplane for our return trip, but we'll be delightfully happy! Actually, I'm betting we will do enough walking to balance out the food. Anybody have shoes/boots they just love for extended city walks? Being from the San Juan Capistrano/San Clemente area of southern California -- no one walks! except on treadmills or in the sand. Many thanks again to all. We've got a month to go so are open to any other thoughts and suggestions! Best, QuinnAdams |
Check out the catalog for Winter Silks. It will be quite cold in Firenze, and perhaps Paris too. You need warm socks and waterproof shoes with good traction for wet marble. (Not running shoes.)
A fleece scarf and hat goes a long way to keeping you warm. Since you will spend so much time walking outdoors you'll need a winter coat, and I would recommend one that goes to your knees and has a hood for maximum dryness. |
Shop closings are usually 12:30-3:30 or 1-4 and reopen from 4-7.
Many museums have cafes with surprisingly decent food if you need a break. The ES train from Florence (station is a short walk from historic district) to Rome Termini station takes 1 1/2 hours and cost is about 30E one way. Schedules are on www.trenitalia.com. Termini is also on a subway line so you can catch that to either the Vatican or Coliseum. |
Some tips at Quattro Leoni. If you decide to go, try their fabulous first course pasta dish made with pears, asparagus and cheese. The name always escapes me, someone else may remember it, but it is absolutely magnificent. Their cheesecake for desert is divine, tiramisu is just surprisingly so-so. You may not need reservations in December, but it is worth making them if you can.
For a fabulous quickie lunch, we had the famous boiled beef sandwiches at Nerbone stall in the San Lorenzo market. |
Just a caution regarding Acqua al 2, though. As I said, it gets loud and very crowded. And servers aren't especially attentive. It's very popular with the twenty-something and student groups. And you might have to share a table. So just be aware that is the atmosphere. It's not a quiet, romantic type of place. Great food, though, and definitely a fun experience. I don't think you'd need reservations more than a day or two in advance. Maybe try to a 'school' night when students might not be out and about so much. Although there are tons of students in Florence!
Another spot that gives a good hillside view of Florence is from San Miniato church. You can take a city bus there. (More info. in my trip report.) :)>- |
P.S. I meant to say try to GO On a 'school' night at Acqua al 2.
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Quinn, you might want to try Acqua al 2 location in the Gaslamp area of San Diego before your trip. I beleive it is another family member of the florence location.
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Thanks for all the info about Acqua al 2 -- we'll try the San Diego version just for the fun of it! And delighted to have another couple good food ideas. Thanks to Ira and MaureenB for the suggestions on easy busrides up the hillside to overlook Florence. We would not have known of this simple and special view without you two! Ira, thanks for the heads up that we might want to do Siena and Bologna instead of Rome. We're looking into it. I know that Rome can't possibly be seen in a day trip but I have the urge to visit Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps - which I will try to redirect.
The heads up on shop closings will be very helpful. I'm thinking since daylight is comparatively short we'll be trying to coordinate outdoor time and museums in Florence with the daytime hours which I think end about 5PM at that time of year. No matter, 5PM in Florence and Paris has got to be better than 5PM in most other parts of the worldf!! And finally, nessundorma, I appreciate the Winter Silks headsup and especially for the info on shoes with traction on wet marble! That would not hace occurred to me. We've still got a month before we go, but once we return I will work on a trip report! Best holidays to all, QuinnAdams |
Regarding transportation to CDG, all of the usual transportation options should be operating as they usually would on a holiday, keeping in mind that it is an extremely light travel day for air traffic -- so there would be fewer shuttles or taxis than on a normal day. The RER (train) from Paris or the Roissybus will be operating on a normal holiday schedule, and the Air France bus schedules are invariable, as far as I know.
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You are welcome, Q.
Enjoy your visit. ((I)) |
Quinn:
Here's a boot rec. We were in Florence/Paris in January and these boots kept me warm & comfy. The leather is so soft they req'd no breaking in. Rubber sole/heel. Shop around for price. I took waterproofing spray with me. Sesto Meucci "Semira" http://tinyurl.com/yfcv6v I generally prefer a more substantial heel---Merrell-like---for so much walking. But those seem "clunky" at night. I loved my Winter Silks. If you haven't already ordered, consider the mid-weight. I don't know how much difference there is, but my lightweights sometimes left me cold. (no pun intended!) I bought a nice pair of heavy ski-type gloves in the Florence market: Gucci!...for only 13 euros! ;-) Also bought a 2nd wool scarf...one wasn't enough some days in both cities. I hope you get a lucky break and have mild weather. But you're smart to prepare for cold. Lastly, I wouldn't do the Rome day trip. With daylight hours so short consider Sienna or elsewhere closer to Florence. |
In Italy, be aware that restaurants close around 3p until dinnertime around 7p. So plan accordingly. When we were hungry during that time-frame, it was a challenge to find a market with fruit or something.
I hope this isn't information overload, but I've pasted below my entire Florence trip report: "Florence, three nights in May, 2006 We arrived in Florence via EuroStar from Rome, around 3:00 in the afternoon. Unfortunately, we were charged an unpleasant fine on EuroStar, because our ticket was mistakenly printed for 1:30 p.m., and we were actually on the 12:30 train. We bought the ticket at the window in Rome, barely in time for the 12:30 train, and the agent knew we were rushed. But, she issued the ticket for the wrong time, and we had to pay 8 EUR on the train for her mistake. Because, of course, the conductor didn’t believe our explanation. And, to make matters worse, we didn’t have our reserved seats, so we had to search for seats. Oh, well, we got there safe and sound. We took a short cab ride to the Relais Cavalcanti. a very charming little 'hotel', at Via Pellicceria, 2. It occupies one floor of a building located near the Uffizi gallery, in a very good central location. Because my daughter had just finished her semester in Florence, she was able to recommend her favorite location in town for lodging. The Relais Cavalcanti building has been in the same family's ownership for 100+ years, the owner/manager of the new-ish Relais is Francesca. She said she inherited this one floor of the building, so she recently renovated it to create a little hotel. It's relatively new, with beautiful tile bathrooms, showers, etc. The rooms are very charming, and good-sized. Our rate for a double/twin was 120EUR, which included an extra 10EUR/day for the better view. Francesca also offered a 5 percent discount for payment in cash. You have the feeling of entering a very nice, private Italian home, when you unlock the Relais door and smell the potpourri set out on the beautiful tables in the hallway and entry way. It has a small elevator and a/c, too. No breakfast is served, but even better I think is that they have a beautiful little dining room/kitchen that is open 24/7 for guests. You have always available the makings for coffee, hot chocolate and tea, plus containers of pre-wrapped pastries and dessert cakes. That's about as much as you get in any Italian B&B for breakfast, and this way you can serve yourself whenever. One evening we bought wine, cheese, bread, and fruit and enjoyed our own private time in this beautiful room. The only thing to be aware of at Relais Cavalcanti is that the first floor of the building is the Old Stove Irish pub. The good news is that it's a decent little place for panini, and has free wi-fi. However, it attracts a lot of students and young people, so it is quite noisy into the early morning hours. Our room window was directly above the pub's patio, with a nice view of adjoining rooftops. The double windows, plus the wooden shutters, can block out about 90 percent of the noise from the pub below. I found that I could also turn on the a/c fan in our room, which would then totally cover any outside noise. Francesca also cautions her prospective guests that she does not staff a 24/7 front desk. She is there during posted hours, mostly till 6 p.m., and has an emergency number on the door. But she is careful to tell guests that hers is not a hotel with full-services at night-time. I highly recommend the Relais Cavalcanti. The afternoon we arrived, my daughter took me to a rooftop café, which overlooks the Duomo. It is on the top of a nice little ‘department’ store. I think it’s called Ristorante Ottorino, via delle Oche, 12-16r. We enjoyed wine and salads, on the sunny afternoon, with a close-up view of the Duomo. A very nice introduction to Florence for me. We then walked a bit, and I saw Ponte Vecchio for the first time. Shops were closed by then, but it was fun to see the bridge and the Arno River, after all the photos I’d seen of them from before. We walked around some more, and window-shopped the designer shops. I have to say, Florence is more upscale than I expected. Because so many students are there every semester, I expected it to be less expensive and have more the feeling of a ‘college town’. Instead, I loved its classy shops and wonderful windy roads. Without my daughter guiding me, I’m sure I would have been lost half the time, though, on those cute cobble-stoned streets. Or, hit by a car on those narrow ‘streets’! We walked over to visit Santa Croce, which had just closed unfortunately (I think at 5 or 5:30 p.m.) So we got some gelato to console ourselves, at the place recommended by my daughter’s host family as the “best” gelato in Florence. I think it’s called Vivoli (sp?). A very cute little place, with wonderful gelato. That evening, my daughter recommended one of her favorite restaurants, the Trattoria Garga on Via del Moro 48/R, phone 055 2398898. We had an amazing meal there, probably my best in Italy. My dish was veal with avocado, which sounds odd (most really good dishes do, I think), and was mouth-watering. Our waiter was a riot-- singing and joking all over the restaurant. It was a friendly, lively, bustling atmosphere with excellent food. We paid 81EUR for two, with a half-liter of house wine. The next morning, we went to the Uffizi. Even though we had a reservation, it was still an ordeal of standing in line, with many people butting ahead of us. I am so amazed how some people have no regard whatsoever for a line, and how chaotic it can become. But, once inside, I had a personal art history guide, as my daughter had been studying in Italy all semester. She was able to tell me all about each of the ‘significant’ pieces of art. It is all pretty overwhelming, and a lot to take in. I especially liked Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. It is amazing to see all that art in person, and under one roof. We walked all day, seeing places my daughter had visited during her semester. We went up the hill to her college’s villa, so I could see it and meet the coordinator there. We also took the bus up to the San Miniato church, to visit it and enjoy the sweeping views over Florence. It’s pretty to see the Duomo and all the rooftops of Florence from that perspective. Walking down the hill a bit, we found a little café with a nice outdoor terrace, which actually looked across the hills at the college’s villa. It was a nice place to take a break, again with caprese salads and wine. We returned to town and finished our shopping mission: to find a wallet and a belt for my son. My daughter’s recommendation was a little store on Via del Corso 69/r, called Leonardo da Vinci. A very nice woman runs it, and my daughter thought her prices were the best for quality pieces. That evening, we were invited to her Italian host family’s home for dinner, which was a special evening, with a very nice woman and her two daughters, who shared their home with my daughter. It was a treat to meet them, share dinner at their table, and see where my daughter had lived all semester. Our second day, we took a train and then a bus to San Gimignano, for a day-trip. We had beautiful blue-sky weather, about 75 degrees. It was a perfect day to wander the little town. We had wine and salads at a wine bar, overlooking the hills. It was called Enoteca di Vinorum, Pza Cisterna 30. We returned to our hotel, to get ready for dinner, again at one of my daughter’s favorite restaurants, Acqua Al 2 (pronounced 'aqua al duo'), Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40/R, phone 055 284170. They are known for their perfect steak with balsamic. I had it and was impressed. (They are now opening a restaurant in San Diego, believe it or not.) This restaurant is known throughout Florence, and is very popular, so it gets loud and crowded, but very worth it, even though the service was a tad spotty. We split a half-liter of house red wine, and we paid 50.70EUR for two dining. Our final morning we had reservations at the Accademia. I am now a life-long admirer of Michelangelo. Having just seen his Sistine Chapel and the Pieta at St. Peter’s Basilica, I was primed to see David. But, I don’t think anything prepares you for seeing it in person. I will say it is more impressive and awesome than I’d expected, as is the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. As people rightfully say, it appears as though David will walk right off that pedestal. How on earth did Michelangelo create such life out of marble? After the Accademia, we found a place to sit on the patio and enjoy a nice lunch, at Trattoria Za-Za, at Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26R. It's popular with business people, and we enjoyed nice omelettes there. Lunch for two, with a glass of wine for each, was 25.50EUR. That afternoon we walked through the gardens at the Pitti Palace, before taking our late day train to Venice." Have fun! :)>- |
Our best meal in Paris was at a tiny fondue restaurant in the 16th.
Gr5 19, rue Gustave Courbet 75016 Paris Tel: 01 47 27 09 84 |
Two more suggestions. This site has good info and reviews of restaurants.
www.eng.cityvox.fr/restau...estaurants Also, we visited the New Morning Jazz club. New Morning 7 & 9 Rue des Petites Ecuries 75010 The neighborhood looked a little dodgy but not too bad. The club looked smoky, but wasn't and the group we saw was from New Orleans. |
Cotninuedthanksto allwho reply. MaureenB, thanks very much for includingyour trip report. You have given me some great ideas! And Jeanne B, thanks for the suggestion of the Sesto Meuccis - not inexpensive by any means but I would rather be warm and comfortable. And for seconding the Winter Silks recommendation. Will go for medium weight.Good point about it getting dark early re Rome. We'll see what DH has his mind set on doing.
Danna, thanks for the little fondue restaurant recommendation and the other restaurants as well. Eating, museums, shopping, people-watching. That's what it's about! Kybourbon, thanks for the msueum cafe suggestion and kerouac, your info about oeprations as usual on Christmas Day is invaluable. Any thoughts from anyone on whether or not to do a lunch or dinner Seine jaunt, or to do it without the food? And if you were going out for Christmas Eve dinner, where might you go? Thanks again all -- what a knowledgeable group and how kind to keep on sharing! QuinnAdams |
Hi Q,
>whether or not to do a lunch or dinner Seine jaunt, or to do it without the food? < I suggest a night ride on the Seine with your own bottle of bubbly (bring glasses) and dinner afterwards. Sunset is 5:46 PM on 12/25. ((I)) |
Hi Quinnadams. My hubby and I are going to Europe for the first time this December/January. We will be staying 4 nights in Florence and are planning on a day trip to Rome from there. I believe one day in Rome is better than not going at all. Our 'must see' there is the Vatican and St Peters, if we only are able to see that, then we will be happy. I am sure though we will be able squeeze in other things.
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In answering your questions about where to eat in Florence I would HIGHLY recommend La Giostra. It is expensive but the food was fantastic. It has an excellent reputation reviews of this restaurant are always 10 out of 10!! They have a website which is
www.ristorantelagiostra.com Check it out it will be woth your time. Also, if you want an excellent tour of Florence I recommend Walking Tours of Florence. They have several different tours and they will include tickets to all of the museums that you go to with them. Their web site is www.artiva.com Hope this helps, Have a Great time!! |
Sounds like a great trip. This thread has given you some great ideas. One additional idea that I would suggest since you are a big fan of Brunello di Montelcino is a guided tour of the region. My wife and I had a great experience in April with Luca Garrapa from Hills and Roads tours:
www.hillsandroads.com He pick us up at our hotel and took us for a full day of wine tasting and sight-seeing through the region, including a very memorable (but simple) lunch in Montalcino. He rates are reasonable and well worth it. Buon Appetito! |
You will find a few restaurants mentioned in this 2006 report which includes a few days in Florence. In addition to Il Guscio which I mentioned in the report and where I ate twice because we liked it so much (you must reserve), I also like Alla Vecchia Bettola very much. Both Il Guscio and Vecchia Bettola are oriented more towards locals than tourists. Both are on the south side of the Arno. If you are a somewhat adventuresome diner, you might want to try Trattoria Cibreo; get there early because you cannot reserve.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34743272 |
A day trip to rome is always sensible. You could be in roma by 9 am spend the day back in tuscan by evening. Relaxing maybe not but very do able. I would travel to rome for hours to get a glimpse of the collosseum from a side alley lane and happily travel back.
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What a wonderful forum this is! So filled with great ideas. Thanks Ira for the advice about bringing our own bubbly and glasses for a night on the Seine but NOT eating on the bateau. The sunset time is very helpful and we would never have thought of bringing our own liquid refreshment. We'll drink a toast to you! Thanks!!
And to ekscrunchy, reading your trip thread made my mouth water in anticipation of the great tastes we will enjoy. I had been wondering about reestaurants in the Oltrano )I think I misspelled that-sorry) and now know some good ones for sure. But I am VERY CURIOUS about your comment << If you are a somewhat adventuresome diner, you might want to try Trattoria Cibreo; get there early because you cannot reserve.>> In what sense adventuresome? Location? Customers? Food? Or ??? Please say more -- now we just HAVE to know!!! I feel quite sorry for people who don't care about food one way or the other; it's such a great pleasure! Wine, too. So many good restaurants -- La Giostra sounds delicious, Ronald! I know the walking tours of Florence are a good idea, but we are pretty stubborn so will probably do Florence by ourselves and spend the $ instead on Montalcino. Rickz37 is the second recommendation of Luca Garappa of Hills and Roads and that's probably wherewe'll oput our touring dollars -- er I mean euros. We are waffling on the day trip to Rome but the posts by Amandab and brando have us waffling on the "let's go" side of it. We are trying to not over-plan so may just leave it loose and see how "museum-ed-out" we get, then decide. For some reason I am getting very hung up in what shoes and boots to bring. I am eager to walk everywhere and want to be nice to my feet so they will be nice to me, but at the same time I am having some difficulty adjusting to the idea of $300 shoes and I keep reading that boots are the only way to go for winter in Paris, but am unclear on whether that's a fashion statement or a warmth statement! Thanks again to all. Very soon now I have to start concretizing (a neologism I just heard in a policy-wonk conversation) our plans so we know more or less what we are doing but have not over-planned. That combo sounds challenging! QuinnA. |
Quinn,
I am not surprised that you got a second rave review about Luca. I hope you enjoy the day(s) with him. Just a heads-up - I believe he is in Spain now on holiday so try e-mailing him and if he does not answer right away, know that this is the reason. Try in a few days again and title it in such a way that he will know you are interested in using his services soon. Good luck and I envy you!!!! |
Hi Quinn!
My sisters and I went to Rome and Florence for our very first trip to Italy last February. Also being from SoCal, I had your same concerns re dressing for the weather. Here is what I found: Definitely be prepared with Winter Silk underwear - you may not need it every day, but you will be glad you have it on the days you do. I chose mocs from Lands End and loved them. Actually, both my sisters had them, too. (They make them for both men and women.) They are not dressy, but they are extremely comfortable, good traction on wet cobblestones, and they keep your feet warm and dry. I alternated them with a pair of very comfortable boots purchased from Aerosole. For my feet, it is important to change shoes. Invest in cashmere socks! They are warm without bulk and my feet were never cold. With these preparations (as well as outer-wear which you did not ask about so I'm sure you have taken care of) and an umbrella, you will not have a problem. Florence is usually colder than Rome, but the weather did not hold us back at all. In fact, there is nothing better than Tuscan soup and red wine - perfect in December! As for the day trip to Rome, if you decide to go remember that Rome is very different from Florence. I absolutely adore Rome, but there is so much to see, it would be difficult for me to pare it down to one day. It definitely deserves more time. And the time you have for Florence will pass quickly, especially if you take the tour suggested above. But, if you decide to go, just be prepared for it to be quite different from Florence. I also did a trip report. Here is the link: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34763995 I'm so jealous - both Florence and Paris! Linda |
Hi Q,
>I have to start concretizing (a neologism I just heard in a policy-wonk conversation) our plans ...< Does one concretize before or after one finalizes? ((I)) |
Another fan of Rome; another vote for "leave it for another time." Pref. spring or fall.
Re clothing: you will be walking along rivers/crossing bridges in both Paris/Florence, so your biggest problem is not the actual temperature but the wind. Making sure you can cover your ears and neck is half the battle, and silk underwear is fabulous because you feel toasty in the wind but not sweaty inside museums. Re shoes: have no preference or recs as to shoes or boots, but just the advice that whatever you wear should be able to help you out on cobblestones. For example, as I think I've seen elsewhere on this board, I was totally unprepared for the driveway approaching Versailles my first visit. The soles of my "comfortable" boots were just a bit too flexible-- unable to bridge the cracks -- and my heels kept sinking into them. The next time I went back there, I wore stiffer sole athletic shoes. Yep, still brought more fashionable footwear along for restaurant, non-cobblestone jaunts. |
Quinn:
Trattoria Cibreo is the smaller, less expensive annex of the Cibreo restaurant. The food is similar at both, albeit with more casual surroundings in the trattoria, as they both use the same kitchen. The food at both slants towards historic Tuscan dishes and a few of them are for the adventurous diner, meaning there are game dishes and things like stuffed chicken neck on the menu. There are also lots of less unusual dishes but NO pasta or grilled meats. The owner-chef, Fabio Picchi, is famous throughout Italy and beyond. You will find dishes here that you find nowhere else. Seating is mostly at communal tables and no reservations are taken. Because it is so famous, during season there is often a group of people waitng to get into the small dining room. I had an amazing experience here; two things you must order are the yellow pepper soup and the beans. The meatballs are great as well, and as I said, there are many many possibilities but do not go there if you expect bistecca or lasagna or pasta with tomato sauce. I let the staff guide me and was very happy. If you are willing to spend more, you can reserve for the restaurant of the same name but that is more pricey and is the most famous restaurant in the city. When I ate there (at the Trattoria) they were using the most amazing oil I had ever tasted, from the Cappezzana Estate; they will sell it to clients who ask. I believe they are both closed Sundays and Mondays. www.cibreo.com |
As usual thanks to all. What a great thing -- ask a question or two before you go to sleep, wake up and there are answers and suggestions!!
My first pleasant task this morning was to email Luca and I will follow Flame123's advice and try again in a few days if I haven't heard anything. Ekscrunchy, thanks forthe detail on Trattoria Cibreo - sounds fab! Tried the website and can email them from it but it is otherwise "under construction." As for "concretize" v. finalize,Ira, who knows -- except perhaps Jimmy Hoffa.Finalize is certainly less weighty so I think that's what I'll stick with! Josephina and LCBoniti : THANK YOU! NOW I understand! I would never have thought about cobblestones and wind. And cashmere socks - definitely! Linda, will check our your Rome trip report. Have a happy day everyone and thanks again, Quinn |
I haven't been to Florence in a long time but I used to go here on business a few times per year. I do remember the noted steaks they had in Tuscany and while there were a couple of mentions of steak dinner here there wasn't mention of the unique steaks. They have a special breed of very large cattle that produce a giant Porterhouse (t-bone shape)which is a specialty of Florence. It's great but you gotta be hungry.....unless you can share.
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