Finally...our 19 day glorious October 2007 (very long detailed) trip report to Italy!
Apr 19th, 2008, 11:10 AM
#161
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Denice,
Small world....another Benise fan!
We first discovered Benise at a local festival and they (as usual) captivated the audience. We were instant fans and see them whenever they're in town. I'm happy that they've on their way to stardom now ...on iTunes and playing larger venues.
Yup...having Roni sharing his music at Da Piva's would have been icing on the cake!
I hope to get the next report posted this weekend.
Grazie!
Small world....another Benise fan!
We first discovered Benise at a local festival and they (as usual) captivated the audience. We were instant fans and see them whenever they're in town. I'm happy that they've on their way to stardom now ...on iTunes and playing larger venues.
Yup...having Roni sharing his music at Da Piva's would have been icing on the cake!
I hope to get the next report posted this weekend.
Grazie!
Apr 19th, 2008, 12:39 PM
#162
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<b>CINQUE TERRE-PART 10
DAY 10 (October 20, 2007 Saturday)
<u>WE LEFT OUR HEARTS IN VERNAZZA</u></b>
I probably don’t have to tell you that we didn’t wake up early today. Each night we cracked open the downstairs window so the ocean would lull us to sleep. All the vino and limoncino last night made us unaware of the sound of the ocean. It was nice to hear it this morning….one last time.
I got up first and went downstairs to start packing. It was an easy task since we had this extra room. The ocean was right in my ear which made this task of packing a soothing one. DH soon joined me and began doing the same. I was beginning to feel a wave of sadness come over me. Kinda like anticipating saying goodbye to LO and Venice. But…stronger. This place called CT, Vernazza and La Mala grabbed a hold of me.
We cleaned up and headed out onto the terrace to say “good morning” to the sea and Vernazza. That was our ritual. DH gave me a hug and I was proud of myself as I fought back the tears.
(Oh…I forgot to mention that on our 2nd day when we got our late start, Mama Jamba was in the hallway of La Mala cleaning the rooms. We had a nice chat with her telling her how much we loved La Mala. She gave us a tour of all the rooms. Each one was spectacular. #19 & 20 were the smallest, but the same great elements and with their own incredible views. #31 was above ours and was the largest with views from above the terrace and out to the sea. Ours (#26) was the best choice for us since we were eye level with that fab stone terrace and the bonus room which was perfecto. Quite frankly, I’d be happy with any room here. Although #26 will always be OUR room)
I got cleaned up quickly and headed down into town to pick up my necklace and bracelet. DH was finishing his packing and was to meet me in town. Vernazza is so delightfully small that it was hard to get lost.
I found myself taking deep breaths as I walked down the steps into town. Not because of these grueling stairs, but because I knew it was soon time to say goodbye. Near the bottom was Da Piva’s….the scene of last nights’ mayhem. I peered in the window expecting to find passed out locals from the night before, but it was clean as a whistle (with only an empty gallon bottle on the bar that housed a vat of limoncello just 8 hours before). Good times, Good times.
I feel so fortunate that we had a glimpse of local Vernazzan nightlife. What a night it was! Again….I’m sure that tonight will be more of the same….filled with another grouping of lucky travelers who stumble across this gem of a place. And another group of ladies who Antonio “spills tears for”.
I’m immediately saddened as I remember our Canadian pals M & B. I wonder what they’re up to now. I can’t imagine a trip like we’ve had without them by our side. It’s those spontaneous moments that make for the best of memories. I am already making a mental note of what to fill in the care package I send them. All fun mementos of our time together.
The “Storie in Italy” store is just opening, so I pop into another enoteca called <b>Enoteca Sciacchetra’</b> near them that is open. I see some Ligurian Olivewood that catches my eye. Wonderful grains of smooth golden wood carved into great spoons, bowls and cutting boards. They are priced right and would make excellent gifts for our culinary pals back home. I, myself, love cooking with wooden spoons, so I grab a few for me too. I bought 4 enlongated boards (no longer than 15” in length) slimly carved into an asymmetrical hourglass-like shape perfect for cheese displays, 12 large wooden spoons in varying sizes, 4 olive spoons and 3 appetizer spoons perfect for tapenade or other yummy dips. These all smell like what I’d imagine Ligurian olivewood to smell like.
I’m so happy to bring back gifts to friends from a place to remember. When picking out gifts, I’m always concerned that I’d find a much better (or apropos) gift at the next place, but…….I feel like I’ve struck gold (and that I did as I wish I would’ve brought back 5 more of everything! And more importantly our foodie friends LOVED them!).
This purchase has put a smile on my sad face. I leave with my goodies and can’t wait to pick up my bracelet and necklace. I go into “Storie in Italy” and see the gal who helped me customize my treasures. She sees me and has a big smile on her face. She knows how much I’ll love these pieces. She gets my trinkets and unwraps the tissue. I melt. They are beautiful and I immediately put them on.
I bid farewell to “Storie” and make my way down to the harbor. I see Antonio. He is doing his fake crying and saying “Debbie, don’t go”. I do everything I can not to burst into tears. He brings a big smile to my face. I really hoped that I wouldn’t see him today. I figured that we all said our goodbyes last night. I go over and give him a big hug and kiss on both cheeks. I tell him I’ll be back and he’d better remember me (I truly hope he does and that it isn’t all wishful thinking). Just then DH shows up and gives Antonio a big handshake. I’m starting to get misty…..Get me outta here!
Back to Burgus for the last time. More of the same….great vibe, tunes, chatter. LOVE this place (but, you know that by now!). We see the Burgus gal and she shyly smiles and quickly gets our tea and juices to our table. We grab our pastries, make a toast with our mugs and I trace the outline of my fish plate. I don’t want to go. I can’t hold it back any longer and the tears roll down my face.
We finish and bid adieu to the Burgus gal. She has been a welcomed mainstay in our morning ritual. We walk hand in hand to the harbor to say goodbye. There are way too many goodbyes here…I don’t like it.
I am now rubbing the charms of my bracelet and necklace. Hoping it means that we’ll be back (like rubbing the pig’s snout in Florence)….sooner than later. We make our last walk back towards the inn. I see Antonio in the same place where we left him. He’s chanting his mantra: “Debbie don’t go”. I can still hear those words today…his voice in my head. His voice and the ocean are the sounds of Vernazza to me. I wonder if it was really Rick Steves or Antonio who put CT on the map. Once you meet this “mayor of Vernazza”, it’s hard not to want to come back.
We make our last trek up the stairs to the inn. Somehow I’m not complaining. We say one last goodbye to that lovely stone terrace, to our room and to La Mala. We’ll be back, we say. Out the door we go…
Bye Da Piva’s. At the bottom is the trio of cats who were our first welcome into this charming village. There are a couple travelers snapping photos of them. They’re clearly used to all the hoopla. Bye kitties. We head towards the train station. Bye Antonio. I don't dare look over in his direction. I have no control and the tears just flow. Luckily, I’m wearing sunglasses to shield my red eyes. We need to be in La Spezia by noon to pick up our car rental, so we have to catch this train.
Bye Vernazza. Up at the train platform, I let it go. I am sobbing. DH puts his arm around me. I don’t care if I look like a fool. This place has a hold of me. As I type this now, tears are spilling on my keyboard…….
<b>Next: Cinque Terre……Glad we did, wish we did.
Followed by….our first blip: The car rental nightmare. Side trip to Pisa. On the road to Tuscany…….
</b>
DAY 10 (October 20, 2007 Saturday)
<u>WE LEFT OUR HEARTS IN VERNAZZA</u></b>
I probably don’t have to tell you that we didn’t wake up early today. Each night we cracked open the downstairs window so the ocean would lull us to sleep. All the vino and limoncino last night made us unaware of the sound of the ocean. It was nice to hear it this morning….one last time.
I got up first and went downstairs to start packing. It was an easy task since we had this extra room. The ocean was right in my ear which made this task of packing a soothing one. DH soon joined me and began doing the same. I was beginning to feel a wave of sadness come over me. Kinda like anticipating saying goodbye to LO and Venice. But…stronger. This place called CT, Vernazza and La Mala grabbed a hold of me.
We cleaned up and headed out onto the terrace to say “good morning” to the sea and Vernazza. That was our ritual. DH gave me a hug and I was proud of myself as I fought back the tears.
(Oh…I forgot to mention that on our 2nd day when we got our late start, Mama Jamba was in the hallway of La Mala cleaning the rooms. We had a nice chat with her telling her how much we loved La Mala. She gave us a tour of all the rooms. Each one was spectacular. #19 & 20 were the smallest, but the same great elements and with their own incredible views. #31 was above ours and was the largest with views from above the terrace and out to the sea. Ours (#26) was the best choice for us since we were eye level with that fab stone terrace and the bonus room which was perfecto. Quite frankly, I’d be happy with any room here. Although #26 will always be OUR room)
I got cleaned up quickly and headed down into town to pick up my necklace and bracelet. DH was finishing his packing and was to meet me in town. Vernazza is so delightfully small that it was hard to get lost.
I found myself taking deep breaths as I walked down the steps into town. Not because of these grueling stairs, but because I knew it was soon time to say goodbye. Near the bottom was Da Piva’s….the scene of last nights’ mayhem. I peered in the window expecting to find passed out locals from the night before, but it was clean as a whistle (with only an empty gallon bottle on the bar that housed a vat of limoncello just 8 hours before). Good times, Good times.
I feel so fortunate that we had a glimpse of local Vernazzan nightlife. What a night it was! Again….I’m sure that tonight will be more of the same….filled with another grouping of lucky travelers who stumble across this gem of a place. And another group of ladies who Antonio “spills tears for”.
I’m immediately saddened as I remember our Canadian pals M & B. I wonder what they’re up to now. I can’t imagine a trip like we’ve had without them by our side. It’s those spontaneous moments that make for the best of memories. I am already making a mental note of what to fill in the care package I send them. All fun mementos of our time together.
The “Storie in Italy” store is just opening, so I pop into another enoteca called <b>Enoteca Sciacchetra’</b> near them that is open. I see some Ligurian Olivewood that catches my eye. Wonderful grains of smooth golden wood carved into great spoons, bowls and cutting boards. They are priced right and would make excellent gifts for our culinary pals back home. I, myself, love cooking with wooden spoons, so I grab a few for me too. I bought 4 enlongated boards (no longer than 15” in length) slimly carved into an asymmetrical hourglass-like shape perfect for cheese displays, 12 large wooden spoons in varying sizes, 4 olive spoons and 3 appetizer spoons perfect for tapenade or other yummy dips. These all smell like what I’d imagine Ligurian olivewood to smell like.
I’m so happy to bring back gifts to friends from a place to remember. When picking out gifts, I’m always concerned that I’d find a much better (or apropos) gift at the next place, but…….I feel like I’ve struck gold (and that I did as I wish I would’ve brought back 5 more of everything! And more importantly our foodie friends LOVED them!).
This purchase has put a smile on my sad face. I leave with my goodies and can’t wait to pick up my bracelet and necklace. I go into “Storie in Italy” and see the gal who helped me customize my treasures. She sees me and has a big smile on her face. She knows how much I’ll love these pieces. She gets my trinkets and unwraps the tissue. I melt. They are beautiful and I immediately put them on.
I bid farewell to “Storie” and make my way down to the harbor. I see Antonio. He is doing his fake crying and saying “Debbie, don’t go”. I do everything I can not to burst into tears. He brings a big smile to my face. I really hoped that I wouldn’t see him today. I figured that we all said our goodbyes last night. I go over and give him a big hug and kiss on both cheeks. I tell him I’ll be back and he’d better remember me (I truly hope he does and that it isn’t all wishful thinking). Just then DH shows up and gives Antonio a big handshake. I’m starting to get misty…..Get me outta here!
Back to Burgus for the last time. More of the same….great vibe, tunes, chatter. LOVE this place (but, you know that by now!). We see the Burgus gal and she shyly smiles and quickly gets our tea and juices to our table. We grab our pastries, make a toast with our mugs and I trace the outline of my fish plate. I don’t want to go. I can’t hold it back any longer and the tears roll down my face.
We finish and bid adieu to the Burgus gal. She has been a welcomed mainstay in our morning ritual. We walk hand in hand to the harbor to say goodbye. There are way too many goodbyes here…I don’t like it.
I am now rubbing the charms of my bracelet and necklace. Hoping it means that we’ll be back (like rubbing the pig’s snout in Florence)….sooner than later. We make our last walk back towards the inn. I see Antonio in the same place where we left him. He’s chanting his mantra: “Debbie don’t go”. I can still hear those words today…his voice in my head. His voice and the ocean are the sounds of Vernazza to me. I wonder if it was really Rick Steves or Antonio who put CT on the map. Once you meet this “mayor of Vernazza”, it’s hard not to want to come back.
We make our last trek up the stairs to the inn. Somehow I’m not complaining. We say one last goodbye to that lovely stone terrace, to our room and to La Mala. We’ll be back, we say. Out the door we go…
Bye Da Piva’s. At the bottom is the trio of cats who were our first welcome into this charming village. There are a couple travelers snapping photos of them. They’re clearly used to all the hoopla. Bye kitties. We head towards the train station. Bye Antonio. I don't dare look over in his direction. I have no control and the tears just flow. Luckily, I’m wearing sunglasses to shield my red eyes. We need to be in La Spezia by noon to pick up our car rental, so we have to catch this train.
Bye Vernazza. Up at the train platform, I let it go. I am sobbing. DH puts his arm around me. I don’t care if I look like a fool. This place has a hold of me. As I type this now, tears are spilling on my keyboard…….
<b>Next: Cinque Terre……Glad we did, wish we did.
Followed by….our first blip: The car rental nightmare. Side trip to Pisa. On the road to Tuscany…….
</b>
Apr 19th, 2008, 05:37 PM
#164
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<b><u>RECAP
Great CT planning websites</u></b>
Cinque Terre http://www.cinqueterre.it/en/index.asp
Cinque Terre online http://www.cinqueterreonline.com/
CT National Park http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/#
Fodor’s Talk-CT trail compilation http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34871747
<b><u>Hiking Info:</u></b>
Riomaggiore to Manarola: (Via dell’Amore): 20 minutes
Manarola to Corniglia: 1 hour
Corniglia to Vernazza: 1 ½ hours
Vernazza to Monterosso: 2 hours
Total time to do all in one day: 5 hours
<b><u>Glad we did:</u></b>
*stayed in <b>Vernazza</b>
*stayed in <b>La Mala</b> (a splurge by CT’s standards, but….oh so worth it!)
*the hike to Volastra, getting lost and taking <b>trail 7A</b> in the vineyards
*<b>hiking the entire 5 villages</b> via the blue (coastal) trail
*met <b>Antonio and our BFF’s M & B</b> from Canada
*<b>boat ride</b> from Monterosso to Riomaggiore (to get the CT perspective from the ocean)
*took recommendations from locals to <b>dine closer to train station</b> where the food is more “mom and pop”. <b>Da Piva, Da Sandro’s and Il Baretto.</b>
*<b>Da Piva’s nightlife</b>….a night to go down in the books!
Note…we loved everything we did and wouldn’t change a doggone thing. More time would allow for the following:
Wish we did:
*<b>Sanctuary Trail</b> http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/l...sp?id_lingue=2
*<b>Torre Guardiola</b> trail (south of Riomaggiore)
*<b>Swim</b> in ocean
*Time for more <b>exploration</b> (other than hiking) and check out the <b>historical sights</b> of the CT
*eat lots more <b>focaccia</b>!
*more time on the <b>terrace and harbor</b>……watching the sunset
*Spent more time in the <b>other 4 towns</b>
*Boat to <b>Portovenere, Portofino, Santa Margarita</b>
*<b>Da Piva’s</b> EVERY night after dinner
*dine at <b>Osteria a Cantina de Mananan</b> in Corniglia (after hearing the meal described by a few other Fodorite’s, this was at the top of our list)
<b>Next….our first blip: The car rental nightmare. Side trip to Pisa (and our cheesy photo holding it up). On the road to Tuscany…….
</b>
Great CT planning websites</u></b>
Cinque Terre http://www.cinqueterre.it/en/index.asp
Cinque Terre online http://www.cinqueterreonline.com/
CT National Park http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/#
Fodor’s Talk-CT trail compilation http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34871747
<b><u>Hiking Info:</u></b>
Riomaggiore to Manarola: (Via dell’Amore): 20 minutes
Manarola to Corniglia: 1 hour
Corniglia to Vernazza: 1 ½ hours
Vernazza to Monterosso: 2 hours
Total time to do all in one day: 5 hours
<b><u>Glad we did:</u></b>
*stayed in <b>Vernazza</b>
*stayed in <b>La Mala</b> (a splurge by CT’s standards, but….oh so worth it!)
*the hike to Volastra, getting lost and taking <b>trail 7A</b> in the vineyards
*<b>hiking the entire 5 villages</b> via the blue (coastal) trail
*met <b>Antonio and our BFF’s M & B</b> from Canada
*<b>boat ride</b> from Monterosso to Riomaggiore (to get the CT perspective from the ocean)
*took recommendations from locals to <b>dine closer to train station</b> where the food is more “mom and pop”. <b>Da Piva, Da Sandro’s and Il Baretto.</b>
*<b>Da Piva’s nightlife</b>….a night to go down in the books!
Note…we loved everything we did and wouldn’t change a doggone thing. More time would allow for the following:
Wish we did:
*<b>Sanctuary Trail</b> http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/l...sp?id_lingue=2
*<b>Torre Guardiola</b> trail (south of Riomaggiore)
*<b>Swim</b> in ocean
*Time for more <b>exploration</b> (other than hiking) and check out the <b>historical sights</b> of the CT
*eat lots more <b>focaccia</b>!
*more time on the <b>terrace and harbor</b>……watching the sunset
*Spent more time in the <b>other 4 towns</b>
*Boat to <b>Portovenere, Portofino, Santa Margarita</b>
*<b>Da Piva’s</b> EVERY night after dinner
*dine at <b>Osteria a Cantina de Mananan</b> in Corniglia (after hearing the meal described by a few other Fodorite’s, this was at the top of our list)
<b>Next….our first blip: The car rental nightmare. Side trip to Pisa (and our cheesy photo holding it up). On the road to Tuscany…….
</b>
Apr 20th, 2008, 08:10 AM
#166
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<b>TUSCANY (w/ side trip to Pisa) PART 1
DAY 11 (October 20, 2007 Saturday)
<u>ON THE RAIL AGAIN…</u></b>
The 30 minute train ride to La Spezia was a blur. I sobbed the entire way. I couldn’t bear to look out the window. Part of me was saying “suck it up” and “get over it”. I just couldn’t. I allowed myself a really good cry. Good thing we had a 3 hr. drive to Tuscany which would refresh my swollen red eyes.
I forgot to mention that the weather took a change today. It was chilly and cloudy compared to days’ past. A dreary day that matched my mood. I began pulling myself together….we’re on our way to Tuscany, the land of food and wine. Nothing like food and wine to make me feel molto better!
I’m not a cry baby by nature….that is what surprises me most by how easily I’m affected here. I reminded myself that this is a trip that was 2 years in the planning and 1 in the making. This was our dream trip of a lifetime and it has so far exceeded my already high expectations.
Okay, back to the train. We’re coming up to La Spezia…our stop. We get off and easily grab a taxi to the Hertz Car Rental office (about a 10 min. drive). We go in with our paperwork in hand. The clerk is as nice as can be. Everything is going smoothly. We’re to wait a few minutes until our car arrives. (note: this isn’t a car rental “lot”, it’s a satellite office. The cars are driven over as they are rented. We had an advance reservation, so we didn’t wait long).
<b><u>OUR CRAPOLA CAR</u></b>
Our car: a dirty (dusty, bird poop), old with dings and dents galore. We get inside and it smells of fresh smoke and there is ash on the seat (clearly, the driver was smoking in it while driving it over). The worst part….the tires are bald. We’re not happy campers.
We’d expect this type of car from a no-name agency (something like that “Ugly Duckling” car rental for 10 bucks a day), not from Hertz. DH goes back in the office and explains the dilemma. The clerk comes out to see the state of the car. He’s very polite and understands, but there is nothing he can do. Option: go to the Pisa Airport Hertz and exchange it. We take this in stride, don’t let it ruin our trip and mosey on our way….
<b><u>PISA….HERE WE COME!</u></b>
Off we go to Pisa. Now I should be crying not because we left CT, but because we’re in this crummy car with bald tires making a pit stop in Pisa. I brought a trial size air freshener spray which I used the whole thing up on this car. I’m glad we made the decision to exchange it. We had 7 more days to spend in the car doing long trips to Tuscan hilltowns, so we wanted something comfy (and looked somewhat decent).
The drive over was quite pleasant. Yes, we encountered the fast Italian drivers and the cool fast cars on the road (along with the really cool Fiat 500 vintage ones). To our left in the mountains was snow capped mountains….so we thought. We were in marble territory…the town of Massa. Stoneyards were on each side of the freeway for miles. Very cool.
As we approached Pisa, we could see the leaning tower in the distance. I was very excited. This was pretty cool. I thought it would be cheesy, but it was actually a very gorgeous building. We followed the signs to the airport to dump the car.
We get to the airport and find the Hertz. There are a sea of cars…all of which were free of dirt, dust, bird poop, big dents & dings, and bald tires. And…I bet they smelled fresh to boot! DH parked and head into the office. No problemo, we had our choice of cars. The clerk came outside w/ DH and laughed at the sight of our car. It was pretty comical. DH picked out a car, we loaded and we were off.
Originally when planning the trip, DH wanted to make a stop in Pisa. After reading the countless posts that it wasn’t worth it, we nixed it. Now we were here (kismet), so we decided to take a look-see.
<b><u>PIZZA BREAK</u></b>
I was finding myself getting cranky….it was time to eat. We made our way towards the leaning tower, parked the car and were too hungry and cold to really search out a decent lunch place. We spied a pizza place called Duomo Ristorante on the main walkway near the Piazza dei Miracoli (the lawn which houses the tower and duomo). There was a chill in the air and the pizza place looked very warm and cozy, so that was it. The search was over.
Due to its proximity to the tower, we expected it to be overpriced mediocre food. On the contrary it was quite good for what it was and they served it up quickly (very important when you’re cranky and famished). A liter of water, 2 good sized salads, a half liter of red wine (vino rosso) and a tasty pizza margherita for 24E.
Back on the walkway towards the tower. We’re getting turned off by the massive amounts of cheesy vendor stands and many who are hawking their wares. Not only that but the vendors approaching us from left and right with armfuls of wares. It was a bit overwhelming and a turn-off.. We come upon the tower and the duomo and they are stunningly beautiful buildings (aren’t they all in Italy). I can only imagine how gorgeous they are against a clear blue sky. I’m blown away by their beauty. We weren’t prepared for them to be such works of art. I’m glad we came. It was all meant to be (crapola car and all).
The areas around the great lawn were lined with vendors selling trinkets and junk. It was a shame. We wish we had time to explore inside the duomo and hang out longer, but we needed to meet the agent in Tuscany around 5ish to get our keys to the cottage. We only had time to meander for a bit and position ourselves (along with the many others) taking photos holding up the tower. It was worth it as our son still gets a kick out of those photos with Dad casually leaning up against the tower with his backside while Mom is grimacing holding it up with her hands.
<b><u>BACK ON THE ROAD TO TUSCANY</u></b>
We easily find our way back on the main highway and towards Tuscany. Our cottage was located in small medieval village called Sogna. So small that it doesn’t show up on most maps. This should’ve been a sign. Its closest town, Rapale, was on most maps so that was a reference point. When I found this cottage on VRBO.com (the Vacation Rental By Owner site…..I use this religiously with much success) awhile back I fell in love with it. I figured that we’d be on the road in Tuscany quite a bit, but didn’t mind…how can you not love driving through rolling hillsides? So location wasn’t too big a deal. We didn’t mind that it was out of the way.
I remember even posting about it and Fodorites mentioned (more like….warned us) about rethinking the location. That wasn’t an option for me since this cottage had it all and reeked romance, romance, romance (which it did). We were here on a 10yr Anniversary/2nd Honeymoon trip. When I have my mind made up…..
So here we are on the highway we spy the undeniable <b>Autogrill.</b> Hard to miss… sleek and bright red. There was even an offramp which looked like it was placed just for it. Pals back home that have been to Italy rave about this Autogrill. Supposedly it’s like (but nowhere even close to being like) those food marts at the gas stations back home.
They raved about the piles of fresh paninis in the deli case that was so reasonably priced. We were full, but naturally, could stuff another panini down. Throughout the rest of the drive we kept our eyes peeled for another Autogrill since they’re hard to miss. But, no luck.
(Note: this is as good as time as any to bring about the <b>maps.</b> We got the Michelin Italia and the Touring Club Italiano Toscana map while back at home and it sure helped in us planning out our trip itinerary. I also used the http://mappy.com">mappy.com and http://Michelin.com">Michelin.com sights to get point to point detailed direction. All were valuable resources.)
We’re getting closer and I’m getting butterflies in my tummy. We pass the offramp for the town of <b>Figline</b> in the Valdarno region. I know of this place since I’m a huge fan of Sting. I knew he had a Tuscan Villa and ironically, I just read an article in “Food and Wine” magazine about his and Trudie’s villa (or should I say estate) in Figline. I ask DH if we can stop by to say “hi”. Maybe we’ll stay for dinner. He laughs and says we need to get our cottage keys. Bummer.
The next couple offramps I recognize <b>Montavarchi</b>…..home of those Italian designer outlet houses….Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. I had that on the list as a possible stopover. Not that DH would get anything out of it, but it was on there all the same. I can’t imagine anything being a true “outlet” price when our exchange rate was at it’s all time high of over 1.50. It would have to be a downright real one-of-a-kind, had to have it, can’t live without it find to make sense.
We get off on the offramp that our very detailed directions to the cottage instruct. Hmmmm….so this is Tuscany? There are strip malls, industrial buildings and shops. Not the kinda Tuscany I was expecting (uh, remember those high expectations?). DH and I discuss this. I guess I imagined Tuscany to be hilltown after hilltown. We still have a ways to go to our “remote village”, so I just take in the sights.
It’s beginning to get more hilly and rustic as we make our way. We pass the small towns of Bucine and Ambra. I’m happy to report that it’s looking much more “Tuscan” (…..whatever that is) to me. Ambra is the town we are to meet our agent to get our keys. Now it is nearing 6pm. We tried to call him a few times while enroute, but it just rang and rang. Hmmm….
<b>Next….It’s a <i>brrrrr</i> COLD snap! The village in heaven (literally!) and the romantic tuscan cottage
</b>
DAY 11 (October 20, 2007 Saturday)
<u>ON THE RAIL AGAIN…</u></b>
The 30 minute train ride to La Spezia was a blur. I sobbed the entire way. I couldn’t bear to look out the window. Part of me was saying “suck it up” and “get over it”. I just couldn’t. I allowed myself a really good cry. Good thing we had a 3 hr. drive to Tuscany which would refresh my swollen red eyes.
I forgot to mention that the weather took a change today. It was chilly and cloudy compared to days’ past. A dreary day that matched my mood. I began pulling myself together….we’re on our way to Tuscany, the land of food and wine. Nothing like food and wine to make me feel molto better!
I’m not a cry baby by nature….that is what surprises me most by how easily I’m affected here. I reminded myself that this is a trip that was 2 years in the planning and 1 in the making. This was our dream trip of a lifetime and it has so far exceeded my already high expectations.
Okay, back to the train. We’re coming up to La Spezia…our stop. We get off and easily grab a taxi to the Hertz Car Rental office (about a 10 min. drive). We go in with our paperwork in hand. The clerk is as nice as can be. Everything is going smoothly. We’re to wait a few minutes until our car arrives. (note: this isn’t a car rental “lot”, it’s a satellite office. The cars are driven over as they are rented. We had an advance reservation, so we didn’t wait long).
<b><u>OUR CRAPOLA CAR</u></b>
Our car: a dirty (dusty, bird poop), old with dings and dents galore. We get inside and it smells of fresh smoke and there is ash on the seat (clearly, the driver was smoking in it while driving it over). The worst part….the tires are bald. We’re not happy campers.
We’d expect this type of car from a no-name agency (something like that “Ugly Duckling” car rental for 10 bucks a day), not from Hertz. DH goes back in the office and explains the dilemma. The clerk comes out to see the state of the car. He’s very polite and understands, but there is nothing he can do. Option: go to the Pisa Airport Hertz and exchange it. We take this in stride, don’t let it ruin our trip and mosey on our way….
<b><u>PISA….HERE WE COME!</u></b>
Off we go to Pisa. Now I should be crying not because we left CT, but because we’re in this crummy car with bald tires making a pit stop in Pisa. I brought a trial size air freshener spray which I used the whole thing up on this car. I’m glad we made the decision to exchange it. We had 7 more days to spend in the car doing long trips to Tuscan hilltowns, so we wanted something comfy (and looked somewhat decent).
The drive over was quite pleasant. Yes, we encountered the fast Italian drivers and the cool fast cars on the road (along with the really cool Fiat 500 vintage ones). To our left in the mountains was snow capped mountains….so we thought. We were in marble territory…the town of Massa. Stoneyards were on each side of the freeway for miles. Very cool.
As we approached Pisa, we could see the leaning tower in the distance. I was very excited. This was pretty cool. I thought it would be cheesy, but it was actually a very gorgeous building. We followed the signs to the airport to dump the car.
We get to the airport and find the Hertz. There are a sea of cars…all of which were free of dirt, dust, bird poop, big dents & dings, and bald tires. And…I bet they smelled fresh to boot! DH parked and head into the office. No problemo, we had our choice of cars. The clerk came outside w/ DH and laughed at the sight of our car. It was pretty comical. DH picked out a car, we loaded and we were off.
Originally when planning the trip, DH wanted to make a stop in Pisa. After reading the countless posts that it wasn’t worth it, we nixed it. Now we were here (kismet), so we decided to take a look-see.
<b><u>PIZZA BREAK</u></b>
I was finding myself getting cranky….it was time to eat. We made our way towards the leaning tower, parked the car and were too hungry and cold to really search out a decent lunch place. We spied a pizza place called Duomo Ristorante on the main walkway near the Piazza dei Miracoli (the lawn which houses the tower and duomo). There was a chill in the air and the pizza place looked very warm and cozy, so that was it. The search was over.
Due to its proximity to the tower, we expected it to be overpriced mediocre food. On the contrary it was quite good for what it was and they served it up quickly (very important when you’re cranky and famished). A liter of water, 2 good sized salads, a half liter of red wine (vino rosso) and a tasty pizza margherita for 24E.
Back on the walkway towards the tower. We’re getting turned off by the massive amounts of cheesy vendor stands and many who are hawking their wares. Not only that but the vendors approaching us from left and right with armfuls of wares. It was a bit overwhelming and a turn-off.. We come upon the tower and the duomo and they are stunningly beautiful buildings (aren’t they all in Italy). I can only imagine how gorgeous they are against a clear blue sky. I’m blown away by their beauty. We weren’t prepared for them to be such works of art. I’m glad we came. It was all meant to be (crapola car and all).
The areas around the great lawn were lined with vendors selling trinkets and junk. It was a shame. We wish we had time to explore inside the duomo and hang out longer, but we needed to meet the agent in Tuscany around 5ish to get our keys to the cottage. We only had time to meander for a bit and position ourselves (along with the many others) taking photos holding up the tower. It was worth it as our son still gets a kick out of those photos with Dad casually leaning up against the tower with his backside while Mom is grimacing holding it up with her hands.
<b><u>BACK ON THE ROAD TO TUSCANY</u></b>
We easily find our way back on the main highway and towards Tuscany. Our cottage was located in small medieval village called Sogna. So small that it doesn’t show up on most maps. This should’ve been a sign. Its closest town, Rapale, was on most maps so that was a reference point. When I found this cottage on VRBO.com (the Vacation Rental By Owner site…..I use this religiously with much success) awhile back I fell in love with it. I figured that we’d be on the road in Tuscany quite a bit, but didn’t mind…how can you not love driving through rolling hillsides? So location wasn’t too big a deal. We didn’t mind that it was out of the way.
I remember even posting about it and Fodorites mentioned (more like….warned us) about rethinking the location. That wasn’t an option for me since this cottage had it all and reeked romance, romance, romance (which it did). We were here on a 10yr Anniversary/2nd Honeymoon trip. When I have my mind made up…..
So here we are on the highway we spy the undeniable <b>Autogrill.</b> Hard to miss… sleek and bright red. There was even an offramp which looked like it was placed just for it. Pals back home that have been to Italy rave about this Autogrill. Supposedly it’s like (but nowhere even close to being like) those food marts at the gas stations back home.
They raved about the piles of fresh paninis in the deli case that was so reasonably priced. We were full, but naturally, could stuff another panini down. Throughout the rest of the drive we kept our eyes peeled for another Autogrill since they’re hard to miss. But, no luck.
(Note: this is as good as time as any to bring about the <b>maps.</b> We got the Michelin Italia and the Touring Club Italiano Toscana map while back at home and it sure helped in us planning out our trip itinerary. I also used the http://mappy.com">mappy.com and http://Michelin.com">Michelin.com sights to get point to point detailed direction. All were valuable resources.)
We’re getting closer and I’m getting butterflies in my tummy. We pass the offramp for the town of <b>Figline</b> in the Valdarno region. I know of this place since I’m a huge fan of Sting. I knew he had a Tuscan Villa and ironically, I just read an article in “Food and Wine” magazine about his and Trudie’s villa (or should I say estate) in Figline. I ask DH if we can stop by to say “hi”. Maybe we’ll stay for dinner. He laughs and says we need to get our cottage keys. Bummer.
The next couple offramps I recognize <b>Montavarchi</b>…..home of those Italian designer outlet houses….Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. I had that on the list as a possible stopover. Not that DH would get anything out of it, but it was on there all the same. I can’t imagine anything being a true “outlet” price when our exchange rate was at it’s all time high of over 1.50. It would have to be a downright real one-of-a-kind, had to have it, can’t live without it find to make sense.
We get off on the offramp that our very detailed directions to the cottage instruct. Hmmmm….so this is Tuscany? There are strip malls, industrial buildings and shops. Not the kinda Tuscany I was expecting (uh, remember those high expectations?). DH and I discuss this. I guess I imagined Tuscany to be hilltown after hilltown. We still have a ways to go to our “remote village”, so I just take in the sights.
It’s beginning to get more hilly and rustic as we make our way. We pass the small towns of Bucine and Ambra. I’m happy to report that it’s looking much more “Tuscan” (…..whatever that is) to me. Ambra is the town we are to meet our agent to get our keys. Now it is nearing 6pm. We tried to call him a few times while enroute, but it just rang and rang. Hmmm….
<b>Next….It’s a <i>brrrrr</i> COLD snap! The village in heaven (literally!) and the romantic tuscan cottage
</b>
Apr 22nd, 2008, 08:17 PM
#170
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Adventureseeker,what can I say? It's school holidays for me, it's been raining for two weeks and I have been a little stir crazy and bored to snores! But not anymore ... this is the most evocative trip report ever, especially since I am in the planning process for a trip to Venice, CT and Tuscany next year. You are an inspired writer and a fun person. Meeting people like yourself whilst travelling is often the highlight of a trip. Cheers to adventure!
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Apr 23rd, 2008, 05:20 PM
#173
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<b>TUSCANY
Part 2 (October 20, 2007)
Day 11 (continued)
Tuscany…the stone cottage and hello to Sogna.
<u>Brrrrrr!</u></b>
When we arrived in Tuscany, they had a cold snap and it was chilly at times especially in the late afternoons. Brrrrr! 9 degrees celsius? I’m a farenheit gal, but know that whatever 9 degrees C is…it’s cold!
After a few attempts to reach our agent (who had our cottage keys) with no avail....we didn't know what to do. Luckily, he was hanging around Ambra looking for us. We got the keys and some instruction. It was nearing dinner time and we wanted to get to Sogna before nightfall.
We spied a small grocer <i>alimentari</i> and headed over. It was a very small store, but had the essentials for dinner that night. In our shopping bag: Fresh from the deli case: marinated artichokes, basil, pecorino cheese. A box of linguine, bag of crostini, bottle of chianti, a box of laundry detergent (this was a story in itself trying to communicate with a pack of local non-English speaking women about laundry detergent. We thought this would easily be a slam dunk to figure out...but it wasn't!) and 6 pack of water.
We had a 10 min. drive to get to the turnoff to Sogna. Once we got on that road, we encountered a group of Italian hunters seeking wild boar <i>cinghale</i>. We were definitely in the tuscan hills!
It was about a 15 minute drive up, up, up on white gravel roads in the Italian forest with no one in sight. We passed through the small village of Rapale which was a group of a dozen or so buildings. My guess is that Sogna (since it didn't make the map) would be even smaller.
During our daily trips, coming and going to Sogna became an adventure as we traveled through forests on gravel roads at night. I joked with DH that we could go off the side of the road and no one would ever find us. That is how remote this place is. So, you can say it was not only heavenly, but darn near located close to heaven!
We finally come onto Sogna perched high above rolling hills of trees and views of Ambra far, far below. It's gorgeous and just what I pictured. During our entire 7 night stay, we only saw one other person (one time) other than the groundskeeper who spoke no english.
No matter what the journey, We fell in love with this romantic stone cottage and looked forward to coming back home to a wood burning fire, bottle of vino and a home cooked meal (cooking was such fun with such an incredible variety of local Tuscan provisions to choose from).
This stone cottage had great attention to detail and a decorator's touch from the great art to the handmade wrought iron bed that was the most comfy of our entire trip. I was <u>in heaven</u> when I discovered the shelves stocked full of Italian cooking, decorating and fiction books. Everything and anything Italia...this cottage had in its library.
Many mornings I’d be wrapped in a handknit throw with a cup of tea, an Italian decorating book in hand and soft classical/Italian music in the background….a great way to start the day! It was also fun to watch some of the DVD’s that the cottage had on hand: “It’s a Beautiful Life”, “Under the Tuscan Sun” and “The English Patient”. We’d already seen these all, but they became the inspiration for our daytrips.
(note: the Tuscany itinerary was the most challenging for us to plan since we had so many places we wanted to see in a week’s time. We finalized our plan by narrowing down what/where to do in each town/region and deciding where to go just the night before. This worked for us.)
<b>Next...Adventures in Tuscan Hilltowns (Siena, Monte San Savino, Arezzo, and the crown jewel...Val d'Orcia region: Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano)</b>
Part 2 (October 20, 2007)
Day 11 (continued)
Tuscany…the stone cottage and hello to Sogna.
<u>Brrrrrr!</u></b>
When we arrived in Tuscany, they had a cold snap and it was chilly at times especially in the late afternoons. Brrrrr! 9 degrees celsius? I’m a farenheit gal, but know that whatever 9 degrees C is…it’s cold!
After a few attempts to reach our agent (who had our cottage keys) with no avail....we didn't know what to do. Luckily, he was hanging around Ambra looking for us. We got the keys and some instruction. It was nearing dinner time and we wanted to get to Sogna before nightfall.
We spied a small grocer <i>alimentari</i> and headed over. It was a very small store, but had the essentials for dinner that night. In our shopping bag: Fresh from the deli case: marinated artichokes, basil, pecorino cheese. A box of linguine, bag of crostini, bottle of chianti, a box of laundry detergent (this was a story in itself trying to communicate with a pack of local non-English speaking women about laundry detergent. We thought this would easily be a slam dunk to figure out...but it wasn't!) and 6 pack of water.
We had a 10 min. drive to get to the turnoff to Sogna. Once we got on that road, we encountered a group of Italian hunters seeking wild boar <i>cinghale</i>. We were definitely in the tuscan hills!
It was about a 15 minute drive up, up, up on white gravel roads in the Italian forest with no one in sight. We passed through the small village of Rapale which was a group of a dozen or so buildings. My guess is that Sogna (since it didn't make the map) would be even smaller.
During our daily trips, coming and going to Sogna became an adventure as we traveled through forests on gravel roads at night. I joked with DH that we could go off the side of the road and no one would ever find us. That is how remote this place is. So, you can say it was not only heavenly, but darn near located close to heaven!
We finally come onto Sogna perched high above rolling hills of trees and views of Ambra far, far below. It's gorgeous and just what I pictured. During our entire 7 night stay, we only saw one other person (one time) other than the groundskeeper who spoke no english.
No matter what the journey, We fell in love with this romantic stone cottage and looked forward to coming back home to a wood burning fire, bottle of vino and a home cooked meal (cooking was such fun with such an incredible variety of local Tuscan provisions to choose from).
This stone cottage had great attention to detail and a decorator's touch from the great art to the handmade wrought iron bed that was the most comfy of our entire trip. I was <u>in heaven</u> when I discovered the shelves stocked full of Italian cooking, decorating and fiction books. Everything and anything Italia...this cottage had in its library.
Many mornings I’d be wrapped in a handknit throw with a cup of tea, an Italian decorating book in hand and soft classical/Italian music in the background….a great way to start the day! It was also fun to watch some of the DVD’s that the cottage had on hand: “It’s a Beautiful Life”, “Under the Tuscan Sun” and “The English Patient”. We’d already seen these all, but they became the inspiration for our daytrips.
(note: the Tuscany itinerary was the most challenging for us to plan since we had so many places we wanted to see in a week’s time. We finalized our plan by narrowing down what/where to do in each town/region and deciding where to go just the night before. This worked for us.)
<b>Next...Adventures in Tuscan Hilltowns (Siena, Monte San Savino, Arezzo, and the crown jewel...Val d'Orcia region: Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano)</b>
Apr 24th, 2008, 01:30 AM
#174
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Hi Adventureseeker,
I have loved reading about your trip and I actually signed up today so I could ask you this question.
My wife and I are planning a trip to Tuscany next year for our 25th anniversary and this house sounds so special. Can you give a link to where you found it, please?
Thanks
LN
I have loved reading about your trip and I actually signed up today so I could ask you this question.
My wife and I are planning a trip to Tuscany next year for our 25th anniversary and this house sounds so special. Can you give a link to where you found it, please?
Thanks
LN
Apr 24th, 2008, 06:55 AM
#175
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Hi LN,
Welcome to Fodor's!
The rental is Sogna Piccolo. I highly recommend the cottage...It is SO very lovely and perfect.
We wish we were there when it is warmer since the pool is incredible (the pool and laundry units are shared by the entire hamlet).
However, keep in mind that Sogna is EXTREMELY remote and about an hour's drive away from all the major hilltowns. (logistically, it isn't the greatest) and the drive up to Sogna in the dark (which we did regularly) can be a bit daunting. But....oh so worth it!
The U.K. owner of the cottage was FABULOUS to deal with.
Any more questions?...I'll be happy to answer.
If you're REALLY interested after viewing the site, I'd be happy to round up a slew of photos from Sogna and the cottage and post it as a slideshow...just say the word!
http://www.vrbo.com/global/siteFrame...turnurl=/57116
Ciao...for now!
Welcome to Fodor's!
The rental is Sogna Piccolo. I highly recommend the cottage...It is SO very lovely and perfect.
We wish we were there when it is warmer since the pool is incredible (the pool and laundry units are shared by the entire hamlet).
However, keep in mind that Sogna is EXTREMELY remote and about an hour's drive away from all the major hilltowns. (logistically, it isn't the greatest) and the drive up to Sogna in the dark (which we did regularly) can be a bit daunting. But....oh so worth it!
The U.K. owner of the cottage was FABULOUS to deal with.
Any more questions?...I'll be happy to answer.
If you're REALLY interested after viewing the site, I'd be happy to round up a slew of photos from Sogna and the cottage and post it as a slideshow...just say the word!
http://www.vrbo.com/global/siteFrame...turnurl=/57116
Ciao...for now!
Apr 24th, 2008, 07:13 AM
#176
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LH,
One more thing.
Just a note: not all the hilltowns were an hour drive away. Siena was just a 30 minute drive away.
We fell in love w/ the Val d'Orcia region which was an hours' drive and we went back a couple times.
A/S
One more thing.
Just a note: not all the hilltowns were an hour drive away. Siena was just a 30 minute drive away.
We fell in love w/ the Val d'Orcia region which was an hours' drive and we went back a couple times.
A/S
Apr 24th, 2008, 09:25 AM
#178
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Let me join the many, many people on this forum who have enjoyed every second of reading your posts! My husband and I (both in our mid-60s and nearly newlyweds) will be embarking on our "trip of a lifetime"--one month in Italy--on Wednesday, the 30th of April. We'll be staying in a house in a little town in northwest Tuscany--Seravezza--and will be visiting all of the places you talk about. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you'll have posted your "Hill Town" adventures before we leave. If not, we'll just compare notes when we get home. Thanks again for putting your heart and soul into sharing with us!
Apr 24th, 2008, 11:21 AM
#179
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All about the Cottage......
<b><u>SOGNA PICCOLA</u></b>
Cottage and Sogna Slideshow
http://flickr.com/photos/debandstan/...08808902/show/
From the white slipcovered couches to the art to the most comfortable bed with snow white pillows galore and down comforter to the luxe Busatti towels. This cottage spared no expense in fine details. A blend of old world Tuscany with modern luxury.
We only wish that we had warmer weather to enjoy the pool and dining alfresco (we did manage to have one gorgeous breakfast under the pergola!).
<b><u>SOGNA PICCOLA</u></b>
Cottage and Sogna Slideshow
http://flickr.com/photos/debandstan/...08808902/show/
From the white slipcovered couches to the art to the most comfortable bed with snow white pillows galore and down comforter to the luxe Busatti towels. This cottage spared no expense in fine details. A blend of old world Tuscany with modern luxury.
We only wish that we had warmer weather to enjoy the pool and dining alfresco (we did manage to have one gorgeous breakfast under the pergola!).
Apr 24th, 2008, 11:27 AM
#180
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traveling 2,
A month in Italy is totally a dream trip. I'm so excited for you and it's just around the corner.
Grazie for your kind words. I'll try to post fast.
What's on your itinerary?
Buon Viaggio, my friend.....
A month in Italy is totally a dream trip. I'm so excited for you and it's just around the corner.
Grazie for your kind words. I'll try to post fast.
What's on your itinerary?
Buon Viaggio, my friend.....
