PamConlan

We're flying into Dublin for 10 days in Ireland-1st trip- on Oct. 19th..We're early fifties,and both of Irish descent (grandmothers' maiden names- Monaghan & Mayo), so after much other travelling, we're finally visiting our roots.

This sight is amazing--it helped me to plan my Hawaii trip earlier in the year, so here are my plans--any help would be appreciated..

Arrive Dublin Thurs. am--stay in Dublin at the Principal Hotel--Temple Bar area..for 2 nights...Sat.am, we fly to Shannon and rent our car for a week..

lst night in Doolin--Cullinan's or Doonmacfelim (Seaview booked)--we always need to be within walking distance of town--hubby drives a lot and when we park the car, we PARK the car!! Hubby's not a seafood lover, so food at Cullinan's would not be a deciding factor..any comments??

Sunday--drive to Dingle via ferry and Conor Pass--stay at Greenmount!! (can't wait) But is there a new and an old side of this b&b and should we request one or other??

Monday--dingle peninsula and at Greenmounts again..

Tues- drive to Muckross and thru Gap to Kenmare--The Lodge--for 2 nights. Drive to Sneem after checking in (roots there too)..

Wed.--drive Beara peninsula--Googan Beara ?--or drive Mizen Head--which one?? Still at The Lodge Weds. night..

Thurs.--drive to Kinsale -- Pier House in town--hear it's FAB?? Haven't booked yet!!(Comments) On drive in, we may do Cobh and Midleton Distillery tours, or if we don't do Mizen Head on Weds, could we do it on way to Kinsale this day, and not arrive too late??
Shorter days in October..

Friday--we have all day too--(Mizen Head this day or Cobh and Midleton) we drop our car off at Cork Airport for 8:00pm flight to Dublin--night at Holiday Inn, and flight to Belgium on Sat am.--to visit son, who plays professional basketball there (ten days, and we'll be checking that website, as well)

Thanks for help--Pam

chatham

Hi,Pam: I stayed at Principal in Dublin a few years back. The noise from the street is very loud. I couldn't sleep. They changed my room and this room had the heat making so much noise I couldn't sleep. I won't go back. I wish I could help you with where to stay in Dublin. Hopefully others will help. Greenmount house: Yes,yes ask for the newer part. That's the mini suites and they are super. They are more expensive, but I think worth it. I stayed in the old part of the house and the room and bath were tiny. Fine for just me and I had a great view. My sons had one of the suites and had room for 2 beds and 5 easy chairs. I also stayed at The Lodge and you'll be very comfortabe and well taken care of. Ask for an upstairs room so you'll have a view of the garden. Also, there are some rooms just a little nicer, better decor, better mattress, but all in all very good. The rest of your trip looks great. My Best. Joan

PamConlan

Thanks for responding, Joan...I may rethink the Principal Hotel...,but I'm wondering about the Greenmount House--rates are 85 euros for the standard room, and 125 euros for the mini-suite "newer" side..40 euros a night--big difference..I just don't know how much we'll be in our room, but if the one side is SO much better, we may go for it..Thanks for the input..I really appreciate it.. Pam

suelh

Cheers, Pam! How nice for you and your husband to finally be going to Ireland (and Belgium). Sounds splendid, and you will be there after the main tourist season, too, which makes the trip even more pleasant (our trip was October 2004).

In Dublin, we stayed at the Mercer Hotel which worked out very well. It is centrally located, yet off the main street and was quiet (we had been forewarned by family members who had stayed near Temple Bar where nightlife kept the noise level pretty high). www.mercerhotel.ie/ Just a thought....

In Kenmare we too chose The Lodge and thoroughly enjoyed it -- very large room and bath (especially compared to some of the usual Irish B&B's). There is a beautiful Waterford crystal chandelier, by the way, in the entry above the staircase. Breakfasts were a delight, too. Town was easy walking distance, yet The Lodge is in a very quiet location.

We had dinner our first night in Kenmare at D'Arcy's (The Lodge suggested it and made reservations for us), and it was excellent. While in Kenmare, be certain to see the Druid Circle on the edge of town, and for shopping, Quill's is very nice (center of town)with woolens, lace, crystal, etc.

The Beara Peninsula is beautiful, and we thought that drive quite special. Overall, Kenmare became one of our favorite towns (Dingle and Donegal being the others).

The Dingle Peninsula drive is fascinating because of so much history, combined with beautiful scenery. We took the Sciuird Archeology Tour in Dingle -- reservations a must: 066/915-1606, and it is outstanding. Tim Collins is an excellent guide, taking only 5-12 people in a minibus all over to sites you would have difficulty finding on your own. His knowledge and explanations of the various areas and ruins were excellent.

A great meal for us in Dingle, by the way, was at Doyle's, where I had the best lobster of my life! It also was fun due to becoming acquainted with a couple from Minnesota and an Englishwoman traveling by herself. We all ended up having dinner together.

Two Dingle pubs that were fun and provided good music were John Benny Moriarty's and Murphy's.

One more suggestion, re Doolin, do stop in O'Connor's Pub -- it's picturesque and much fun, good food too, and music at night. By the way, wherever you eat in Ireland you will find other items on the menu besides seafood, so your husband will do just fine.

Will let others more experienced with Ireland travel comment on your other issues. Have a grand trip!

Sue

PamConlan

Sue,
Thanks SO much for all of your great info. How ironic that it was a toss-up between the Mercer and the Principal Hotels in Dublin and I picked the Principal for the location. But the Mercer is in a good locale, too..we may be changing those reservations..

I think we may do the Archaelogical Tour also..have heard great things..it's a Rick Steve's fav.

And the restaurant suggestions sound wonderful--I LOVE all seafood, and the special thing about my husband, is that he loves salads, and is just as happy with a chicken caesar, or even just a tossed salad and soup.. yet he loves to see me enjoy my salmon and Guinness. What a guy!!!

And we will go to O'connors in Doolin..I'm glad to hear you suggest it, since so many others talk of huge crowds in Doolin..Is it nicer there in October?? Less crowded?? We still aren't sure where to stay, but are leaning toward Cullinan's--good reviews on this sight..Any comments anyone??

And should we go the Beara and Mizen Head or just one--and which one??

Thanks again..Pam

chatham

Pam: Glad Sue had another suggestion for Dublin. It was the noise from outside and darn pipes. You know you'll only be at Greenmount for 2 nights and the older rooms are really fine, just much smaller. The bed is just as comfortable, lighting just as good and the view from the window seat is out of this world. They do have 2 sitting rooms. If you stay in one of the smaller rooms you'll be very happy when you get to The Lodge with their great bathrooms. Check out Packies for an evening meal in Kenmare. My Regards, Joan

12perfectdays

Hi Pam,
My husband and I are making our first trip to Ireland in October as well. We land in Dublin on the 17th of October and are heading clockwise around. Ironically, we too will be in Doolin on Saturday the 22nd!

I chose Cullinan's as I had heard good things there and of course the Sea View was booked. I really went with Cullinan's for 3 reasons, one was all the recommendations here

Plus quite a few people mentioned the great pub grub (stew) at McGann's and McDermot's pub appears to be right there as well. (O'Connor's seems a bit down the road and I am not sure, am assuming walking distance)

Plus, the breakfast sounded lovely and a little bit of a change as we will be almost mid-vacation with Irish breakfast each morning.

Would love to know which you decide, maybe we will lift a pint together in toast to our fellow Fodorites!

Dawn

PamConlan

Dawn,
That sounds like a great idea to meet for a pint in Doolin --kinda like when Budman and wife hooked up with Happy Cheesehead and husband at the Crookhaven Inn...how fun--details later. I just put in for our room at Cullinan's also--just too many nice things on this site, not to give them a go..I will reread your itinerary--you've been given lots of memorable info that I will be using on our trip..My first itinerary on this sight is now outdated, as we were going to drive from Dublin along the coast to Dingle and then up to Doolin and back across to Dublin...

But for just a few dollars more, we will fly to Doolin, go counter-clockwise, ending in Kinsale, flying from Cork back to Dublin...gives us much more quality time, having just 7 days after Dublin..

And Sue, thanks again--just a question on the Beara peninsula--from Kenmare, how long a drive to do it, and did you do it's entirety, or not go all the way to the bottom (cutting across, I believe, without my map handy)? I'm already planning on Lobster at Doyles, as in Michigan, it is WAY to cost preventative....

Joan,
I appreciate you responding again on the smaller rooms at the Greenmount House. I feel a little better, as we really won't be in our room much..but I have nothing to compare, as B&B's go, since in all our travels, we have NEVER stayed in one.. I think I've made good choices, however..

I still haven't booked in Kinsale--but the PierHouse looks so inviting--great location and totally redone--great reviews on Tripadvisor.com...

Can anyone else advise whether or not we should do the Beara peninsula drive from Kenmare back to Kenmare--or how reasonable is it to drive to Mizen Head and back to Kenmare for the one full day in Kenmare (Weds.) We will do Muckross and the Gap the previous day on our way from Dingle to Kenmare, but what to do the next full day??

If we drive from Kenmare to Kinsale via Mizen Head, what time on Thursday,would that put us in to Kinsale?? We will still have all of Friday, before 8:00 pm flight to Dublin, but we want to do Cobh and the Midleton Distillery Tour.., and of course enjoy the town somewhat.

Any suggestions from those who've been there, done that?? Thanks so much for everyone's input....Pam

brookend

The Pier House in Kinsale IS fabulous. Stayed there last October and it was the best of our accommodations for the entire trip! Very comfy, very nice hosts, and wonderful breakfast. Also, Max's Wine Bar (I believe) behind the Pier House for dinner - one of the best meals I've EVER had - salmon,delicious, wonderful flavors in everything....... have a wonderful time!

PamConlan

Thanks Brookend for responding...I just needed to hear from someone that it was nice, so I will book immediately..

And Chatham, I just wanted to mention a coincidence to you..my daughter-in-law is from Chatham, Ontario (now resides in Michigan, like us) and funny thing---her mother's name is Joan.. thanks again for all your time.. Pam

chatham

Pam, that is funny about my name. I've been thinking about the rooms at Greenmount. We were there around the first of April and John let me look at the rooms in the older part of the house and I did pick the smallest. It is the first one aflter the the sitting room on the right. It was really small but had a great view. The one across from my room was larger with a nice size bath, but no view. The one next to me was about the same size, with a little larger bath and great view. I went with the view, but you can get the views from the sitting rooms. You're just going to have a great time. Goodnight, Joan

12perfectdays

Pam,
Good to hear we won't have to go far to meet up for that pint!

My itinerary is still the same. Except that I have taken Budman's advice and we are staying at The Shores in Castlegory and having dinner as well. I am thinking of booking the tour with Tim Collins, any info. on times and cost? I may call him on Monday to find out more. (The Costco MCI card has been great!)

For Killarney, I'm having the "where to stay" problem as well (it's our first time in B&B's too). We will be there 2 nights and 1 day (all day touring the Nat'l Park). Unfortunately, DH is not willing to drive back and forth from Kenmare and I just can't figure where to stay...in town (ultra convenient), outside town (nicer but drive to pub and grub) Abbey Lodge, Carriglea, Crystal Springs, Ross Castle Lodge...decisions, decisions!

Let me know about that pint, I am off to check out your Hawaii post to see which Island you went to. Hawaii is my favorite State and I dream of a second home in Kauai!

PamConlan

Dawn,
I never did a Hawaii trip report, and I 've felt so guilty about it because of the wonderful trip we had. It was the first time I had used the sight, and upon returning, I was so busy with a new grandchild going to arrive in April in Belgium, and planning a trip there for May, that I never got around to it..

But I'm so inspired by this sight, that I'm going to very soon do THAT report. And indeed, it was 18 days in paradise!!
Kauai is heaven on earth!!!!!!As Budman can attest to--I believe he just returned. Read his stuff there too..It's great!!

Funny thing, is that I remember reading Budman's postings on the Hawaii sight, and was so surprised to see him here also. He's a REAL world traveler!!

As for the Tim Collins tour, he has 2 a day, I think at 10:30 and 2:00--2 and a half hours long...I think we're going to do that too...Rick Steves writes highly of him--now there's a book I never travel without...Anyways, there are 2 tours--one (west) to Gallus Oratory and (east) to Minard Castle and a wedge tomb. He favors neither, and says they're both good.. And yes in October, we should call to see if there are the required 5 to go...I'm lucky as far as calling Europe goes--9Cents/min--my youngest son has played professional basketball in Europe since 1998, so it's a necessity...he's also the one who really turned us on to Europe.

Things happen for a reason!!!!!!!

And yes The Shores in Castlegregory sounds wonderful...it would have been my first choice, but my husband asks so little, and the one thing he asked of in Ireland, is that when we park the car at night, that we be able to access these small towns on foot..(at night and in the am, as we rise early)..so Castlegregory was out--and the shorter daylight hours thru the pass were also a consideration..but I'm a tad jealous, and can't wait to hear how you like it.

By the way, I got the sunrise and sunset times for Ireland when we will be there..I always do this--it helps my planning...sunrise varies from 7:50 to 8:15 (twilight about a half hour earlier), and sunset is 6:25 to 6:40 with again light for about another half hour..hope this helps...Pam

PamConlan

Gee, upon re-reading my post, it says about the Scuirid Tours, that Rick Steves "favors neither"--sounds like he doesn't like them--not the case--he loves them, just says that they're equally wonderful..sorry.. Pam

rfbk50

We stayed at the Seaview about five years ago and it was great. Do make a stop at Doolins.

My favorite memory was looking out of our B & B window early in the morning and seeing a heard of cows walking down the mainstreet. I knew at that moment I was far from the "city".

12perfectdays

Pam,
I started on Fodor's in Feb. to plan this trip and never thought to check Kauai posts, found them in March when I clicked on Budman's posts. Thought their GTG sounded like fun & ironically they were staying where we always do (aston islander-Kapaa). I have read icee2's report. Our last trip was in Oct 2004...maybe I should post a report??? The most amazing thing happened in Waimea Canyon!

About the Tim Collin's tour, too bad we are heading in opposite directions, we would have made 4 of the required 5 people. We are planning on leaving Killarney Friday the 21st early morning, straight to Dingle and self drive Slea Head from R.S. book (my first purchase planning Ireland was his book!)then on to the Shores for dinner, sleep, b-fast and on to Doolin but if we do the tour then DH doesn't have to drive, even better!

Which tour do you think you will do? I am almost tempted to do both tours and make it all-in-one...have you heard anyone doing this? I think I will give a call in a few hours and see what's up.

Yes, I did check sunrise and set times but haven't gone back in a while. Did you check for both coasts? I seem to recall that it was a bit of a difference. (I will re-check)

Did you pre-order a heritage card? Am thinking of getting mine now so it's done. I read just reciently that a couple of people were not able to get one at the first sight they went to.

Dawn