Felt right at home in Scotland - even liked the haggis!: A trip report
Jul 11th, 2007, 07:57 PM
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Felt right at home in Scotland - even liked the haggis!: A trip report
When I left off on our London trip report, we had just purchased our cornish pasties and prepared to board the Caledonian Sleeper. It was our first experience with this type of train travel and there were some surprises. We couldn't seem to get the machine to dispense our tickets so I had to go to the window. The gentleman there did not really want to help me and acted a little bothered. Then you can't board the train until about 30 minutes before departure time. There's no use heading for the platform as there's nowhere to sit. Everyone just stands in the main terminal area staring at the screens to see when and where to go. The screens don't even show which platform to go to until it's time to board. Then there's a mad dash. Once you get there, finding an attendant to show you which car to go to, or to help in any way, is a bit of a challenge.
Anyway, we were eventually directed to our adjoining cabins (family ticket arrangement). We had to ask them to open the door and connect them (sort of). The door didn't seem to want to stay open and slammed shut during the night but we did enjoy having the extra bunk to store our bags as each cabin had two and there were only three of us. The other hitch in the journey was that our car did not have functioning air-conditioning. It was very stuffy and warm in there with no air circulating. Finally we got the attendant to open windows in the car and things began to cool as the sun set. We had Toblerones and whisky and pasties and good books to read, so we were happy. I actually slept amazingly well and awoke early to the beautiful scenery of Scotland outside my window. I made my way down to the lounge car so as not to disturb my still-sleeping family. To my amusement, a young Englishman sitting next to me rubbed his eyes sleepily and said, "Christ! What happened to England and why is this train going backwards?!" (It went through several changes during the night as it divided up and different cars went to different destinations.) One more weird thing I'll mention in case it helps someone else... I ordered coffee in the lounge and he charged me. Meanwhile the complimentary coffee we were promised was being delivered to my cabin. So, I should have just walked down to get it and then returned. But none of this was explained.
The scenery outside was getting more and more amazing - greenery, hills, streams. It was like going to sleep in one world and waking up in another. We arrived in Fort William about 9:40 am to a cool, misty place. The Alexandra Hotel was quickly spotted just across a busy street so we made our way over there by way of a pedestrian underpass. It was too early to check in so the desk stored our luggage in a broom closet and we decided to walk around town a bit. Our main object today was to make our way out to Ben Nevis Distillery to visit our casks we had purchased nine years earlier and had long dreamed of seeing. After walking about town and peaking in shops (our hotel was well suited for this as it's right on the main street) we tried to understand the bus schedule and just could not. So we decided to return to the hotel for lunch and then get a taxi to the distillery, which we did. Lunch was VERY good, one of the best meals we had on the entire trip.
After a short taxi ride we arrived at the distillery with the amazing Ben Nevis Mountain in the background. We went to the main office as we had been instructed to do and the secretary asked us to be seated while she talked to Mr. Ross, the manager. He arranged for us to be taken out to our casks by a nice young man named Daniel. The warehouse out back looked ancient and inside was filled ceiling to floor with rack after rack of casks. The smell of the evaporating whisky was almost intoxicating - and it was so dark and atmospheric in there. After consulting some papers, Daniel was able to take us right to our casks so that we could touch them and have our picture taken with them. Very cool...
When we returned to the office, Mr. Ross took us into a meeting room where he spent quite a bit of time talking to us about the distillery, whisky in general, and other things. Then he gave us a taste of his special 40 year old reserve whisky and presented us with a bottle of their fine 10 year old single malt. He pretty much treated us like royalty and our visit with him was one of the highlights of our trip. Next we took a tour of the distillery. The short film beforehand, starring Hector MacDram, was so cute and funny. Our guide, Sandy, took us through the various rooms and steps involved in whisky-making. Most enjoyable. When it was time to leave, we got impatient waiting for a bus and decided to walk back to town. Bad idea. Our legs were still aching from the many miles we walked in London, there was no way to really get off the road while walking, it was raining, the traffic was bad, and it was a LONG way. So we flagged down a taxi and had him take us back to our hotel. We were so tired that after we arrived in our room, we all fell fast asleep! We awoke 15 minutes before we were supposed to be at Crannog's for the dinner reservation we had made earlier that day. So we quickly got ourselves in order and hoofed it down to the waterside. This was the other best meal of our trip. We each ordered a different fish and each was prepared to perfection. My sea bass was GREAT! We all tasted each other's dishes and we each liked our own the best. Fort William may not be the most scenic town but it has good food!
Let me say that we also like our hotel very much. It's very cool-looking from the outside, comfortable and homey on the inside. Our room had three beds, kind of hard, but not bad. Our window opened, allowing in the cool air. The bathroom was nice. The location was perfect for us with the train station right across the street and shopping and restaurants close by, as we were only going to be in Fort William for one night.
Day 2 in Scotland (Saturday) - Up bright and early for our train to Mallaig. We had been so disappointed to learn as I was planning our trip that we could not take the steam train as it did not run on Saturdays this early in the season. So we had tickets for the regular train. It did allow us to get an early start though - 8:30 am. This is a very scenic route and we enjoyed the ride very much. It was cloudy the whole time so I can only imagine how much more spectacular it would be with the sun shining. I was so anxious to get great views of the Glenfinnan Viaduct as we crossed as I'm such a Harry Potter fan. Well, to our delight they stopped the train on the viaduct so we could get our fill of looking and taking pictures.
We arrived in Mallaig after about an hour and a half and made our way immediately to the ferry terminal. If you don't have a car, you just purchase your tickets after you get there so this was one thing I had not done in advance. No problem. It was a smooth process and before long we were out there boarding the ferry. I've begun to notice at this point that Scotland is COLD and WET compared to London and that my sandals and short sleeved shirts would not see the light of day for the remainder of the trip. We got great seats on the ferry - at a big table right at the forward windows - so our view was very nice during the short voyage.
Before long, we had a nice view of the island we would come to love - Skye! We disembarked and began to look around for Kenny of Kyle Taxis, with whom I had long had an arranagement to meet us with a car. He spotted our bewildered faces and stepped away from the shiny black car in the parking lot to greet us. He was very nice and professional in every way and soon had us lined out and on our way. And, oh Lordy, what a shock it is to drive on the other side of the road, and to be sitting on the other side of the car, and to be on a one track road! "Keep to the left!...Keep to the left!", was our mantra for the next two days.
We made our way up to Portree without incident and then COULD NOT find our hotel (Urquhart Caledonian) in that little town. We drove around the main square over and over, finally finding one of the much-coveted parking spaces long enough to locate the hotel and go inside to ask the hostess how to get to their parking area. The hotel is one floor up from a cafe and you have to walk up some stairs to the bar area to check in. Dorothy was the very nice young lady who guided us to the parking lot, which you would never find without guidance, and helped us to our room with our luggage. We immediately loved our room. It was large with a double bed and a pair of bunk beds. We had a great view over some rooftops to the water. The room was very light and roomy and comfortable. The tea making things and cookies were very welcome. The bathroom was nice too - good shower but no tub.
We had lunch at the nearby Central Restaurant which was okay. The lumpy bumpy fudge cake was the best part! And we had some ales that we enjoyed. Next we walked around shopping a bit, got some money from the Bank of Scotland ATM, and headed back to the room for some rest. Dinner that evening was at the "pizza place" across the street. I had a weird pizza with shrimp and corn on it (I know...I know...) and my husband had some pretty good fish and chips. Our daughter had a more conventional pizza. We watched in amazement as a couple next to us consumed HUGE plates of haggis, tatties, and neeps. One of the waitresses asked me if I had any American state quarters as she was collecting them. To her delight, and mine, I did find one in my luggage and took it back to her - and it was one she did not have. Time for bed and to get ready for the beautiful drives we had planned for the next two days on Skye.
Anyway, we were eventually directed to our adjoining cabins (family ticket arrangement). We had to ask them to open the door and connect them (sort of). The door didn't seem to want to stay open and slammed shut during the night but we did enjoy having the extra bunk to store our bags as each cabin had two and there were only three of us. The other hitch in the journey was that our car did not have functioning air-conditioning. It was very stuffy and warm in there with no air circulating. Finally we got the attendant to open windows in the car and things began to cool as the sun set. We had Toblerones and whisky and pasties and good books to read, so we were happy. I actually slept amazingly well and awoke early to the beautiful scenery of Scotland outside my window. I made my way down to the lounge car so as not to disturb my still-sleeping family. To my amusement, a young Englishman sitting next to me rubbed his eyes sleepily and said, "Christ! What happened to England and why is this train going backwards?!" (It went through several changes during the night as it divided up and different cars went to different destinations.) One more weird thing I'll mention in case it helps someone else... I ordered coffee in the lounge and he charged me. Meanwhile the complimentary coffee we were promised was being delivered to my cabin. So, I should have just walked down to get it and then returned. But none of this was explained.
The scenery outside was getting more and more amazing - greenery, hills, streams. It was like going to sleep in one world and waking up in another. We arrived in Fort William about 9:40 am to a cool, misty place. The Alexandra Hotel was quickly spotted just across a busy street so we made our way over there by way of a pedestrian underpass. It was too early to check in so the desk stored our luggage in a broom closet and we decided to walk around town a bit. Our main object today was to make our way out to Ben Nevis Distillery to visit our casks we had purchased nine years earlier and had long dreamed of seeing. After walking about town and peaking in shops (our hotel was well suited for this as it's right on the main street) we tried to understand the bus schedule and just could not. So we decided to return to the hotel for lunch and then get a taxi to the distillery, which we did. Lunch was VERY good, one of the best meals we had on the entire trip.
After a short taxi ride we arrived at the distillery with the amazing Ben Nevis Mountain in the background. We went to the main office as we had been instructed to do and the secretary asked us to be seated while she talked to Mr. Ross, the manager. He arranged for us to be taken out to our casks by a nice young man named Daniel. The warehouse out back looked ancient and inside was filled ceiling to floor with rack after rack of casks. The smell of the evaporating whisky was almost intoxicating - and it was so dark and atmospheric in there. After consulting some papers, Daniel was able to take us right to our casks so that we could touch them and have our picture taken with them. Very cool...
When we returned to the office, Mr. Ross took us into a meeting room where he spent quite a bit of time talking to us about the distillery, whisky in general, and other things. Then he gave us a taste of his special 40 year old reserve whisky and presented us with a bottle of their fine 10 year old single malt. He pretty much treated us like royalty and our visit with him was one of the highlights of our trip. Next we took a tour of the distillery. The short film beforehand, starring Hector MacDram, was so cute and funny. Our guide, Sandy, took us through the various rooms and steps involved in whisky-making. Most enjoyable. When it was time to leave, we got impatient waiting for a bus and decided to walk back to town. Bad idea. Our legs were still aching from the many miles we walked in London, there was no way to really get off the road while walking, it was raining, the traffic was bad, and it was a LONG way. So we flagged down a taxi and had him take us back to our hotel. We were so tired that after we arrived in our room, we all fell fast asleep! We awoke 15 minutes before we were supposed to be at Crannog's for the dinner reservation we had made earlier that day. So we quickly got ourselves in order and hoofed it down to the waterside. This was the other best meal of our trip. We each ordered a different fish and each was prepared to perfection. My sea bass was GREAT! We all tasted each other's dishes and we each liked our own the best. Fort William may not be the most scenic town but it has good food!
Let me say that we also like our hotel very much. It's very cool-looking from the outside, comfortable and homey on the inside. Our room had three beds, kind of hard, but not bad. Our window opened, allowing in the cool air. The bathroom was nice. The location was perfect for us with the train station right across the street and shopping and restaurants close by, as we were only going to be in Fort William for one night.
Day 2 in Scotland (Saturday) - Up bright and early for our train to Mallaig. We had been so disappointed to learn as I was planning our trip that we could not take the steam train as it did not run on Saturdays this early in the season. So we had tickets for the regular train. It did allow us to get an early start though - 8:30 am. This is a very scenic route and we enjoyed the ride very much. It was cloudy the whole time so I can only imagine how much more spectacular it would be with the sun shining. I was so anxious to get great views of the Glenfinnan Viaduct as we crossed as I'm such a Harry Potter fan. Well, to our delight they stopped the train on the viaduct so we could get our fill of looking and taking pictures.
We arrived in Mallaig after about an hour and a half and made our way immediately to the ferry terminal. If you don't have a car, you just purchase your tickets after you get there so this was one thing I had not done in advance. No problem. It was a smooth process and before long we were out there boarding the ferry. I've begun to notice at this point that Scotland is COLD and WET compared to London and that my sandals and short sleeved shirts would not see the light of day for the remainder of the trip. We got great seats on the ferry - at a big table right at the forward windows - so our view was very nice during the short voyage.
Before long, we had a nice view of the island we would come to love - Skye! We disembarked and began to look around for Kenny of Kyle Taxis, with whom I had long had an arranagement to meet us with a car. He spotted our bewildered faces and stepped away from the shiny black car in the parking lot to greet us. He was very nice and professional in every way and soon had us lined out and on our way. And, oh Lordy, what a shock it is to drive on the other side of the road, and to be sitting on the other side of the car, and to be on a one track road! "Keep to the left!...Keep to the left!", was our mantra for the next two days.
We made our way up to Portree without incident and then COULD NOT find our hotel (Urquhart Caledonian) in that little town. We drove around the main square over and over, finally finding one of the much-coveted parking spaces long enough to locate the hotel and go inside to ask the hostess how to get to their parking area. The hotel is one floor up from a cafe and you have to walk up some stairs to the bar area to check in. Dorothy was the very nice young lady who guided us to the parking lot, which you would never find without guidance, and helped us to our room with our luggage. We immediately loved our room. It was large with a double bed and a pair of bunk beds. We had a great view over some rooftops to the water. The room was very light and roomy and comfortable. The tea making things and cookies were very welcome. The bathroom was nice too - good shower but no tub.
We had lunch at the nearby Central Restaurant which was okay. The lumpy bumpy fudge cake was the best part! And we had some ales that we enjoyed. Next we walked around shopping a bit, got some money from the Bank of Scotland ATM, and headed back to the room for some rest. Dinner that evening was at the "pizza place" across the street. I had a weird pizza with shrimp and corn on it (I know...I know...) and my husband had some pretty good fish and chips. Our daughter had a more conventional pizza. We watched in amazement as a couple next to us consumed HUGE plates of haggis, tatties, and neeps. One of the waitresses asked me if I had any American state quarters as she was collecting them. To her delight, and mine, I did find one in my luggage and took it back to her - and it was one she did not have. Time for bed and to get ready for the beautiful drives we had planned for the next two days on Skye.
Jul 12th, 2007, 02:17 AM
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Enjoying your report so far - v. well written & interesting. What an amazing experience, to visit your own whisky casks ! So nice that you were treated so well. When will it be bottled ?
Sorry about the weather. I got back from Italy last Saturday, managed until yesterday in summer clothes but back in winter clothes today
Sorry about the weather. I got back from Italy last Saturday, managed until yesterday in summer clothes but back in winter clothes today
Jul 12th, 2007, 05:38 AM
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Day 3 Scotland/Day 2 Skye
I had made my family take one carry-on bag each so DH firmly stated this morning that laundry must be done! The hostel across the street had a laundromat but did not open it until 11 am, so we were destined for a leisurely morning. After the made to order breakfast we enjoyed in the little dining room of the hotel, we read and enjoyed the internet in our room until it was time to head over to the laundromat. Figuring out what coins to use and how to use the machines was a little challenge and the dryers took a long time. I finally took our clothes back to the room and hung them on every available surface so that we could strike out on further adventures.
I drove today and DH said this made him much more nervous than driving himself. Trying to avoid other cars, that looked to me like they were coming at me from the wrong side, had me scraping curbs and crunching gravel as he gripped his door with white knuckles. We hadn't gone far before we came to a beautiful waterfall just off the road. It had a parking area, so we stopped and walked up the hill for a closer look and pictures. I was enjoying my light rain jacket, as I did for the entire trip. The wind was pretty biting. I did learn to LOVE the wind as we did not encounter a single midge on our journeys. We ate our sandwiches that we had gotten from the cafe below our hotel and headed out again. The Old Man of Storr was shrouded in mist but we stopped and hiked part of the way through the incredible woods - moss, lichen, deep layers of residue on the footpath. It felt ancient and like we had stepped into "Lord of the Rings".
We walked back and continued on our journey, stopping at the obligatory sights - Kilt Rock and that neat hike out to the ruins of the dolomite mine. At Kilt Rock, the wind was whistling through the metal railings and making the eeriest sound.
We basically made our way around the Trotternish Peninsula that day stopping whenever it struck our fancy. My daughter and I hiked up a fairly high hill to explore some old ruin that backed up to an amazing cliff that dropped down to the water below. It was so windy it felt like you could lean into the wind and not fall. There were little lambs everywhere. The mean little things did not seem to want us to pet their little soft heads (sigh). We thought these were castle ruins but we saw these later so I'm not sure what this was? But we enjoyed exploring it.
When we got back to Portree, we had dinner at the Arriba Cafe and went back to our room for some Scottish t.v. It felt good to have so much down time after the excitement of London where we had plans almost every night. Arriba Cafe serves Green Mountain coffee and has a very creative menu. I couldn't identify some of the items but enjoyed the lamb dish I chose very much.
Day 3 on Skye
Today we decided to drive to Dunvegan Castle, Talisker Distillery, and around that way. We got a little earlier start after breakfast and DH was behind the wheel again. Snicker... I will insert here that I really loved Dunvegan Castle. It seemed almost homey and approachable compared to some of the other places we'd been. And it's still used by Clan MacLeod, which is pretty cool. Seeing evidence that it had been visited by Samuel Johnson, Walter Scott, the parents of our current queen, Flora MacDonald, and Bonnie Prince Charlie (a lock of his hair is there in Flora's locket) was a neat thing. And the dungeons were really creepy. And the view of the loch behind the castle was gorgeous. And even the gift shop had some interesting items. A very worthwhile experience...
Talisker Distillery was a must as we enjoy this whisky at home whenever we can. We didn't take the official tour since we felt pretty much like experts in whisky-making after our Ben Nevis tour. We did enjoy walking around in the pristine visitor's center and around the outside, admiring the setting. Afterward, we drove up a little road to the town above the distillery. We found a great-looking place to eat but it wasn't open, so on we drove - back down and around.
We decided to deny our stomachs a bit longer and make the turn toward Glen Sligachan for a visit to the Fairy Pools. Another highlight of our trip. Seeing the Black and Red Cuillins ahead as we drove nearer and nearer to our destination made for several big intakes of breath and photo ops. We parked in the designated area and started the hike down to the pools. You can make it a very long walk if you like but you don't have to walk very far before the little waterfalls and pools start appearing. Every time you press on again, you encounter more beauty a little farther along. When we got a pretty good ways down in to the valley, we could see a rain shower marching its way toward us so we pulled up our rain hoods and started making our way back. The edge of it overtook us but by then we were almost back. We were out of breath, and our noses were red and cold, and we were thoroughly delighted with our adventure.
By now our stomachs are really aggravated. We drove to the Sligachan Hotel and ate in the attached pub. The large dining area with its bar containing over 200 single malt whiskies and little fireplace enchanted us. We all had fish and chips which was very good. It was also my chance to try cullen skink which I liked very much. We tried some ales and a whisky we'd never had (wish I hadn't forgotten the name!) and headed back "home" after another beautiful day!
I had made my family take one carry-on bag each so DH firmly stated this morning that laundry must be done! The hostel across the street had a laundromat but did not open it until 11 am, so we were destined for a leisurely morning. After the made to order breakfast we enjoyed in the little dining room of the hotel, we read and enjoyed the internet in our room until it was time to head over to the laundromat. Figuring out what coins to use and how to use the machines was a little challenge and the dryers took a long time. I finally took our clothes back to the room and hung them on every available surface so that we could strike out on further adventures.
I drove today and DH said this made him much more nervous than driving himself. Trying to avoid other cars, that looked to me like they were coming at me from the wrong side, had me scraping curbs and crunching gravel as he gripped his door with white knuckles. We hadn't gone far before we came to a beautiful waterfall just off the road. It had a parking area, so we stopped and walked up the hill for a closer look and pictures. I was enjoying my light rain jacket, as I did for the entire trip. The wind was pretty biting. I did learn to LOVE the wind as we did not encounter a single midge on our journeys. We ate our sandwiches that we had gotten from the cafe below our hotel and headed out again. The Old Man of Storr was shrouded in mist but we stopped and hiked part of the way through the incredible woods - moss, lichen, deep layers of residue on the footpath. It felt ancient and like we had stepped into "Lord of the Rings".
We walked back and continued on our journey, stopping at the obligatory sights - Kilt Rock and that neat hike out to the ruins of the dolomite mine. At Kilt Rock, the wind was whistling through the metal railings and making the eeriest sound.
We basically made our way around the Trotternish Peninsula that day stopping whenever it struck our fancy. My daughter and I hiked up a fairly high hill to explore some old ruin that backed up to an amazing cliff that dropped down to the water below. It was so windy it felt like you could lean into the wind and not fall. There were little lambs everywhere. The mean little things did not seem to want us to pet their little soft heads (sigh). We thought these were castle ruins but we saw these later so I'm not sure what this was? But we enjoyed exploring it.
When we got back to Portree, we had dinner at the Arriba Cafe and went back to our room for some Scottish t.v. It felt good to have so much down time after the excitement of London where we had plans almost every night. Arriba Cafe serves Green Mountain coffee and has a very creative menu. I couldn't identify some of the items but enjoyed the lamb dish I chose very much.
Day 3 on Skye
Today we decided to drive to Dunvegan Castle, Talisker Distillery, and around that way. We got a little earlier start after breakfast and DH was behind the wheel again. Snicker... I will insert here that I really loved Dunvegan Castle. It seemed almost homey and approachable compared to some of the other places we'd been. And it's still used by Clan MacLeod, which is pretty cool. Seeing evidence that it had been visited by Samuel Johnson, Walter Scott, the parents of our current queen, Flora MacDonald, and Bonnie Prince Charlie (a lock of his hair is there in Flora's locket) was a neat thing. And the dungeons were really creepy. And the view of the loch behind the castle was gorgeous. And even the gift shop had some interesting items. A very worthwhile experience...
Talisker Distillery was a must as we enjoy this whisky at home whenever we can. We didn't take the official tour since we felt pretty much like experts in whisky-making after our Ben Nevis tour. We did enjoy walking around in the pristine visitor's center and around the outside, admiring the setting. Afterward, we drove up a little road to the town above the distillery. We found a great-looking place to eat but it wasn't open, so on we drove - back down and around.
We decided to deny our stomachs a bit longer and make the turn toward Glen Sligachan for a visit to the Fairy Pools. Another highlight of our trip. Seeing the Black and Red Cuillins ahead as we drove nearer and nearer to our destination made for several big intakes of breath and photo ops. We parked in the designated area and started the hike down to the pools. You can make it a very long walk if you like but you don't have to walk very far before the little waterfalls and pools start appearing. Every time you press on again, you encounter more beauty a little farther along. When we got a pretty good ways down in to the valley, we could see a rain shower marching its way toward us so we pulled up our rain hoods and started making our way back. The edge of it overtook us but by then we were almost back. We were out of breath, and our noses were red and cold, and we were thoroughly delighted with our adventure.
By now our stomachs are really aggravated. We drove to the Sligachan Hotel and ate in the attached pub. The large dining area with its bar containing over 200 single malt whiskies and little fireplace enchanted us. We all had fish and chips which was very good. It was also my chance to try cullen skink which I liked very much. We tried some ales and a whisky we'd never had (wish I hadn't forgotten the name!) and headed back "home" after another beautiful day!
Jul 12th, 2007, 09:28 AM
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Superb trip report! Just wish the weather had been a little better for you. Honestly it isn't always this bad in the summer, this has just been a particularly grotty one.
I'm off to a barbie on Saturday, forecast is 17C and rain, better take my wellies.
I'm off to a barbie on Saturday, forecast is 17C and rain, better take my wellies.
Interesting and enjoyable trip report. I do envy you have your own casks!! Thanks for posting.
Jul 12th, 2007, 03:18 PM
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Day 4 - Goodbye to Skye day
After breakfast, we packed up and headed out to Kyleakin for our trip across the bridge to return our car to Kyle Taxis and take the train to Inverness and then Edinburgh. Somehow we managed to take a creative route from Portree to Broadford. We ended up on a narrow single track road with a drop off on the left and curves that allowed no sight distance ahead. We bounced along anxiously for awhile and then descended down level with the water into a picturesque lane with the occasional house alongside. We encountered a hearty woman striding along with her walking stick and farm dog and I asked her if we were truly heading toward Broadford. She cheerfully assured us that we were and then turned into her driveway where her husband and some geese were waiting for her. You know, it's those little unexpected scenes that stick in your mind when you fondly think back on a trip...
When we got to Kyle of Lochalsh we quickly located the little train station but could not find the taxi/rental car place. It was one of those situations where you drive around and around a small area feeling like either your destination is under a cloaking device OR you've taken a crazy pill! Finally we called them and said, "Please come get us!" And they did and transported us to our train. The little train station is the neatest thing. There's a gift shop there and you can join "Friends of Kyle" to get a neat map and admittance to the museum. The money helps to preserve this historic, but not money-making, line between Kyle of Lochalsh and Inverness. We had reserved seats together at one of the tables and settled in for this scenic journey. The colorful map made it a lot more fun. (Make sure to sit on the left side of the train to see the most interesting sights.)
When we arrived at the station in Inverness we had very little time to get over to our connecion to Edinburgh. Then when we got on, we could not find our seats! Well, there was some mix-up and no seat reservations had been recorded. The train was packed and we had no chance of finding seats together. The attendant told us to just stand in the corner with our luggage as the train was leaving NOW. After we were underway, we dumped our luggage and made our way down the aisle pleading for individual seats. I had the good fortune to sit with a very nice lady from Aberdeen who whispered to me that she was about to get off the train at the very next stop, freeing up a table for four. We visited and she pointed out some skiing mountains where she used to ski as a child. When she got off the train, I hustled my family over from their temporary location and we settled in together.
Okay, I love those food carts that come rattling down the aisle with sandwiches and crisps of many flavors. I felt like Ron and Harry Potter as I scrabbled for my change and picked some interesting things to munch on - tuna and cucumber sandwiches, ploughman's sandwiches, cheese and watercress sandwiches...
Our journey was comfortable and scenic. When we arrived at Edinburgh, we headed into the station only to find that you are only going to get to go to the loo IF you have the right change. Ouch! After hitting the change machine with legs anxiously crossed and taking care of business, we made our way out to the taxis. We had toyed with the idea of walking to our apartment but it was a strange place, and we were tired and had our luggage. At this point, I'm getting quite fond of taxi cabs, something I have always hated here in the U.S.
After a short journey, we arrived at 22 Johnston Terrace, location of Apartment by Castle; and Eric and Moira Bowman hurried right down to the curb to greet us and help us with our luggage. You climb up one flight of circular stairs to get to the apartment, which is opened with these neat antique keys. And voila'! You are in the coziest, roomiest apartment you have ever seen - neat as a pin and with views of the looming Edinburgh Castle right outside three of the five windows. Heavenly! The Bowmans made sure that we were settled in and had access to every type of brochure and map we might possibly want. They had stocked our kitchen with bread, cheese, milk, oatmeal, cookies, crackers, and jam. They assured us that they would be available to us if we needed them and even called the next morning to check on us! Now that's exceptional service! They're the kind of people that feel like friends immediately. They also warned us that the queen would be opening Parliament in a few days and that it would be now or never to see Holyrood Palace. We opted to make a meal of our provisions and settle into this cozy haven for the evening, gazing out at the castle next door and the street scene below.
Day 5 Scotland/Day 2 Edinburgh
We made a breakfast of our provisions and made our way down the Royal Mile, which starts right AT our apartment just up some stairs. (Our location was so wonderful. The stairs right next to our apartment terminate at the castle entrance to the left and the beginning of the Royal Mile to the right.) We were trying to take in the fantastic sights as we went - so many beautiful buildings - but were also trying to get to the palace before it was "made secure", i.e. closed, for the queen. We made it to the gates just as it started pouring rain and just in time for me to read that the palace would be closed for the queen's visit. "NOOOOOOOO," I sobbed as the men in black peeled me off the gate. We ran dripping into the Queen's Gallery gift shop where we holed up for awhile to make our plans. There was an eccentric lady there who kept looking at all of the postcards like old friends and fondly discussing the queen whenever she came across her picture. She assured us all that the "queen is gorgeous" and led the staff in a rousing rendition of "God Save the Queen". Then she left, saying, "I'll be back on Friday!" It appeared that the shop workers were very familiar with her and I felt touched by their kindness to her.
When the rain slowed a bit, we walked back UP the Royal Mile. It's amazing how many really tacky gift shops there are, all containing the same items. BUT it's such a beautiful and historic walk. From the wierd Parliament building (what's with the techno-bamboo theme?) to the John Knox House to St. Giles, it's just a feast for the eyes! We had lunch at The Filling Station which was indeed filling and touristy. We had peeked into Always Sunday but my daughter quickly nixed the creative and health-nut looking offerings. Sigh...
Then we made our way over to Princes Street, admiring the gardens, the Walter Scott memorial, and all of the stores. Finally, not quite totally exhausted, we went to the Grassmarket area briefly and partook of a fabulous milk chocolate crepe right at a stand right near the foot of the Granny Green steps - and were just a set of stairs back to our apartment! (Did I mention perfect location?) We also stopped at a little market for sugar and eggs on our way back.
DH was ready to stay in for the evening but, after a rest, my daughter and I went back down The Mile for dinner at Deacon Brodie's. Pretty good food, fun atmosphere, kind of pricey, very crowded. We enjoyed it. B-
Day 6 - Last day in Edinburgh
We snacked for breakfast and then DD and I climbed up the stairs for our much-awaited castle visit. DH said "no more castles or palaces, etc. I'm done!" We headed first for the Honours of Scotland and the Stone (which Ben the Westminster Abbey verger made us promise to say "hi" to). There were some neat dioramas explaining the story of Queen Mary and the various coronations that had taken place there - slightly cheesy but fun. We walked all around and visited the gift shop. We ALMOST stayed for the 1 o clock gun but left about 15 minutes shy of it. I know...terrible! A bit of advice: do not eat the brownies in the cafe there (reminiscent of a brick).
We met up with DH near the exit of the castle, walking up to meet us. There were street performers here and there which we watched with interest. We decided to eat lunch and do our souvenir shopping, which we had put off to the bitter end. We went back down to the Grassmarket and ate at The Last Drop. Wonderful choice! We started to eat outside but the rain drove us into the coziest pub I've every seen. We had Laguvulin with a Duchars chaser - a combo I was determined to try while in Edinburgh. I have long loved Lagavulin and immediately gave this experiment the seal of approval. And it was time to stop postponing the inevitable - haggie, tatties, and neeps. Guess what? I loved it; ate every bite. My family even gamely tasted it and declared it "alright". Then we shopped at cheesy shops and bought the requisite number of shortbread cookie boxes and woollen scarfs before returning to our little haven for the last time. Dinner was snacks again.
Departure Day
Up at 4:30 for our flight home. Eric and Moira met us at the apartment - They see every guest off. - and Eric drove us to the airport. (Can you believe it?!) We enjoyed our visit with him and felt that we were leaving a new friend. Our flights home were fairly uneventful - delayed, of course, resulting in it taking a whopping 27 hours to get home. We got out just before the Glasgow incident and the London car bombs...
Some thoughts about our trip: I was happy with my planning. Starting out with the high energy part (London) and finishing up with the more laid back part (Scotland) was the right thing to do. I didn't have as much energy left for Edinburgh as I would have liked, lots of things I didn't tour per say. All of our accommodations were PERFECT for us. So I was pleased with the research I had put in to it all.
So many American southernors have some Scottish ancestry and I'm no exception. However, if I didn't have any, I'd lie about it and say that I did. I felt a kinship with the people and a very homey feeling about the country. The slow rhythms of the speech were easy for me to understand (of course, we didn't go to Glasgow...LOL). As Hector MacDram says, "If you're not Scottish... Well, that's a very bad thing to have happen to ya."
After breakfast, we packed up and headed out to Kyleakin for our trip across the bridge to return our car to Kyle Taxis and take the train to Inverness and then Edinburgh. Somehow we managed to take a creative route from Portree to Broadford. We ended up on a narrow single track road with a drop off on the left and curves that allowed no sight distance ahead. We bounced along anxiously for awhile and then descended down level with the water into a picturesque lane with the occasional house alongside. We encountered a hearty woman striding along with her walking stick and farm dog and I asked her if we were truly heading toward Broadford. She cheerfully assured us that we were and then turned into her driveway where her husband and some geese were waiting for her. You know, it's those little unexpected scenes that stick in your mind when you fondly think back on a trip...
When we got to Kyle of Lochalsh we quickly located the little train station but could not find the taxi/rental car place. It was one of those situations where you drive around and around a small area feeling like either your destination is under a cloaking device OR you've taken a crazy pill! Finally we called them and said, "Please come get us!" And they did and transported us to our train. The little train station is the neatest thing. There's a gift shop there and you can join "Friends of Kyle" to get a neat map and admittance to the museum. The money helps to preserve this historic, but not money-making, line between Kyle of Lochalsh and Inverness. We had reserved seats together at one of the tables and settled in for this scenic journey. The colorful map made it a lot more fun. (Make sure to sit on the left side of the train to see the most interesting sights.)
When we arrived at the station in Inverness we had very little time to get over to our connecion to Edinburgh. Then when we got on, we could not find our seats! Well, there was some mix-up and no seat reservations had been recorded. The train was packed and we had no chance of finding seats together. The attendant told us to just stand in the corner with our luggage as the train was leaving NOW. After we were underway, we dumped our luggage and made our way down the aisle pleading for individual seats. I had the good fortune to sit with a very nice lady from Aberdeen who whispered to me that she was about to get off the train at the very next stop, freeing up a table for four. We visited and she pointed out some skiing mountains where she used to ski as a child. When she got off the train, I hustled my family over from their temporary location and we settled in together.
Okay, I love those food carts that come rattling down the aisle with sandwiches and crisps of many flavors. I felt like Ron and Harry Potter as I scrabbled for my change and picked some interesting things to munch on - tuna and cucumber sandwiches, ploughman's sandwiches, cheese and watercress sandwiches...
Our journey was comfortable and scenic. When we arrived at Edinburgh, we headed into the station only to find that you are only going to get to go to the loo IF you have the right change. Ouch! After hitting the change machine with legs anxiously crossed and taking care of business, we made our way out to the taxis. We had toyed with the idea of walking to our apartment but it was a strange place, and we were tired and had our luggage. At this point, I'm getting quite fond of taxi cabs, something I have always hated here in the U.S.
After a short journey, we arrived at 22 Johnston Terrace, location of Apartment by Castle; and Eric and Moira Bowman hurried right down to the curb to greet us and help us with our luggage. You climb up one flight of circular stairs to get to the apartment, which is opened with these neat antique keys. And voila'! You are in the coziest, roomiest apartment you have ever seen - neat as a pin and with views of the looming Edinburgh Castle right outside three of the five windows. Heavenly! The Bowmans made sure that we were settled in and had access to every type of brochure and map we might possibly want. They had stocked our kitchen with bread, cheese, milk, oatmeal, cookies, crackers, and jam. They assured us that they would be available to us if we needed them and even called the next morning to check on us! Now that's exceptional service! They're the kind of people that feel like friends immediately. They also warned us that the queen would be opening Parliament in a few days and that it would be now or never to see Holyrood Palace. We opted to make a meal of our provisions and settle into this cozy haven for the evening, gazing out at the castle next door and the street scene below.
Day 5 Scotland/Day 2 Edinburgh
We made a breakfast of our provisions and made our way down the Royal Mile, which starts right AT our apartment just up some stairs. (Our location was so wonderful. The stairs right next to our apartment terminate at the castle entrance to the left and the beginning of the Royal Mile to the right.) We were trying to take in the fantastic sights as we went - so many beautiful buildings - but were also trying to get to the palace before it was "made secure", i.e. closed, for the queen. We made it to the gates just as it started pouring rain and just in time for me to read that the palace would be closed for the queen's visit. "NOOOOOOOO," I sobbed as the men in black peeled me off the gate. We ran dripping into the Queen's Gallery gift shop where we holed up for awhile to make our plans. There was an eccentric lady there who kept looking at all of the postcards like old friends and fondly discussing the queen whenever she came across her picture. She assured us all that the "queen is gorgeous" and led the staff in a rousing rendition of "God Save the Queen". Then she left, saying, "I'll be back on Friday!" It appeared that the shop workers were very familiar with her and I felt touched by their kindness to her.
When the rain slowed a bit, we walked back UP the Royal Mile. It's amazing how many really tacky gift shops there are, all containing the same items. BUT it's such a beautiful and historic walk. From the wierd Parliament building (what's with the techno-bamboo theme?) to the John Knox House to St. Giles, it's just a feast for the eyes! We had lunch at The Filling Station which was indeed filling and touristy. We had peeked into Always Sunday but my daughter quickly nixed the creative and health-nut looking offerings. Sigh...
Then we made our way over to Princes Street, admiring the gardens, the Walter Scott memorial, and all of the stores. Finally, not quite totally exhausted, we went to the Grassmarket area briefly and partook of a fabulous milk chocolate crepe right at a stand right near the foot of the Granny Green steps - and were just a set of stairs back to our apartment! (Did I mention perfect location?) We also stopped at a little market for sugar and eggs on our way back.
DH was ready to stay in for the evening but, after a rest, my daughter and I went back down The Mile for dinner at Deacon Brodie's. Pretty good food, fun atmosphere, kind of pricey, very crowded. We enjoyed it. B-
Day 6 - Last day in Edinburgh
We snacked for breakfast and then DD and I climbed up the stairs for our much-awaited castle visit. DH said "no more castles or palaces, etc. I'm done!" We headed first for the Honours of Scotland and the Stone (which Ben the Westminster Abbey verger made us promise to say "hi" to). There were some neat dioramas explaining the story of Queen Mary and the various coronations that had taken place there - slightly cheesy but fun. We walked all around and visited the gift shop. We ALMOST stayed for the 1 o clock gun but left about 15 minutes shy of it. I know...terrible! A bit of advice: do not eat the brownies in the cafe there (reminiscent of a brick).
We met up with DH near the exit of the castle, walking up to meet us. There were street performers here and there which we watched with interest. We decided to eat lunch and do our souvenir shopping, which we had put off to the bitter end. We went back down to the Grassmarket and ate at The Last Drop. Wonderful choice! We started to eat outside but the rain drove us into the coziest pub I've every seen. We had Laguvulin with a Duchars chaser - a combo I was determined to try while in Edinburgh. I have long loved Lagavulin and immediately gave this experiment the seal of approval. And it was time to stop postponing the inevitable - haggie, tatties, and neeps. Guess what? I loved it; ate every bite. My family even gamely tasted it and declared it "alright". Then we shopped at cheesy shops and bought the requisite number of shortbread cookie boxes and woollen scarfs before returning to our little haven for the last time. Dinner was snacks again.
Departure Day
Up at 4:30 for our flight home. Eric and Moira met us at the apartment - They see every guest off. - and Eric drove us to the airport. (Can you believe it?!) We enjoyed our visit with him and felt that we were leaving a new friend. Our flights home were fairly uneventful - delayed, of course, resulting in it taking a whopping 27 hours to get home. We got out just before the Glasgow incident and the London car bombs...
Some thoughts about our trip: I was happy with my planning. Starting out with the high energy part (London) and finishing up with the more laid back part (Scotland) was the right thing to do. I didn't have as much energy left for Edinburgh as I would have liked, lots of things I didn't tour per say. All of our accommodations were PERFECT for us. So I was pleased with the research I had put in to it all.
So many American southernors have some Scottish ancestry and I'm no exception. However, if I didn't have any, I'd lie about it and say that I did. I felt a kinship with the people and a very homey feeling about the country. The slow rhythms of the speech were easy for me to understand (of course, we didn't go to Glasgow...LOL). As Hector MacDram says, "If you're not Scottish... Well, that's a very bad thing to have happen to ya."
Jul 12th, 2007, 03:47 PM
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Never mind that. It's a lovely report. I went to check your London one also, which was very enjoyable. I may have missed it, but how old is your DD? It's nice to hear that all your careful planning paid off.
Jul 12th, 2007, 05:27 PM
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twk -
It sounds like both our parties were feeling tired by the time we got to Edinburgh, so that may be a place to which to return. We had reservations at the Radisson before I found this apartment. We really did love it and I would heartily recommend it to anyone for its comfort and location. They have a great website and the owner is very responsive to e-mail.
It sounds like both our parties were feeling tired by the time we got to Edinburgh, so that may be a place to which to return. We had reservations at the Radisson before I found this apartment. We really did love it and I would heartily recommend it to anyone for its comfort and location. They have a great website and the owner is very responsive to e-mail.
