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feedback on Madrid 5 day itinerary and some q's

First, thanks again to all who've already helped me plan this trip! I'm so excited that in just a few weeks we'll be spending 5 full days in La Rioja Alavesa area and then 5 full days in Madrid.

In past travels I haven't planned itineraries, even rough ones, but rather made a list of a few "don't want to miss" things and then played each day by ear. However, with more years on our joints and a dh with some back pain issues, I thought this time to try grouping things to minimize the walking mileage. We've always much enjoyed, as slow travelers, a lot of walking/wandering/stopping at cafes, on our trips. But we know this time we'll need to be doing even more stopping to watch the world go by...not a bad thing!

So one of the things I'm looking for, is whether this rough itinerary I've come up with, allows for that. Or, whether I've gone overboard the other direction. I'm very open to feedback. I put specific q's in italics. Fyi we shouldn't be jet lagged by the time we're in Madrid as it'll be the second part of the trip. Also fyi it's not changeable that we're arriving to Madrid on a Wed. evening. We'll of course leave it open as much as we can, which day we do which itinerary based on weather and energy level (tho' the "get Prado tix in advance" that I see everywhere, seems to preclude saving it for the rainy day if there is one...or could "in advance" be just the night before online?).

Am not worrying about specific restaurants so much as there are so many past threads to glean from, and we also often just choose in the moment. That said, if you want to suggest, go ahead! Also a general question on that - do we need to reserve ahead for menu del dia type lunches (as opposed to just tapas)? We don't do high end ones, just "medium" ones that others have said are good food and atmosphere, or have good TA reviews, or appeal to us on the spot. We generally look for menus with no English, unless we're very, very tired lol. Or does whether or not we need to reserve, just depend on if we're ok to sometimes eat "early" i.e. 1:30 versus the more popular later times?

Thursday
Museo Prado in the morning
Rest and leisurely lunch
4 or 5 ish, check out Mercado Anton Martin right near us, then head over to Parque Retiro for a few hours
Tapas and/or dinner in neighborhood (again, reservations needed always, for popular places? Or if we sometimes go on early side such as 8:30 or 9 would we typically be ok?)
If energy, perhaps some jazz music afterward - are reservations needed for Cafe Central and if yes, how far in advance would they typically be needed?

Friday (the day that might need most help)
Cafe and breakfast somewhere
Wander around Barrio de las Letras, the neighborhood we're staying in
Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, at latter going to El Arco Artesania
Mercado San Miguel for tapas/lunch/rest there or some nearby cafe
Palacio Real - not sure yet whether we'll tour inside or just admire from outside
Wander La Latina neighborhood, including a stop at Mercado de la Cebeda
If we kept lunch small, and if timing is right, tapas while in La Latina
Not sure yet about a later nighttime activity. Is there anywhere for a 60+ person to dance that doesn't require heels and where I wouldn't be the oldest person by 35 years and where dh could just sit if back hurting? I know this might be too much to ask for, but I love to dance!
Also, wondering should we reverse Thursday/Friday - would Prado be significantly more crowded on a Friday than a Thursday? Would La Latina be unbearably crowded on a Friday night compared with a Thursday? Can you tell I don't love big crowds? :)

Saturday - not sure about how we'd do the timing of these but thought these might work for sketch of a day
Museo Sorrolla
Plaza Olivade in Chamberi
Anden O
Mercado de la Paz in Salamanca (I subscribe to "a mercado a day keeps the dr. away")
Sunset at Templo de Debod

Sunday
Possibly a day trip to Cuenca or Cercedilla or Toledo, depending on mood, but haven't done my homework yet on what's open and closed on Sundays. If we're still having a wonderful time in Madrid very well might skip the day trip, even tho' I know people say not to miss Toledo (I actually find myself a little more called to Cuenca). If we don't daytrip I think it'll just be a day to be completely spontaneous.

Monday
Wander Malasana and Chueca neighborhoods
Include stop at Mercado de San Anton
Inclue a peak at Casa de las Siete Chimeneas (worth having on list?)
Also at Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero

Tuesday we leave for airport in morning

Another question - we'll be there during the Festival of San Isidro. Our full days in Madrid are May 12-16. Does this change anything about what anyone would recommend we do/don't do and when? We enjoy seeing local customs observed but also as previously mentioned don't like big crowds, especially in these covid times.

Muchas gracias de antemano!

Hola, Laura,
Don't need to purchase the Prado tickets way in advance, just the day or night before online to avoid standing in a long line in the sun. There's a 50% reduction in ticket price for those 65+ with proof of age-dr. license will do.

Thursday-
Prado in the morning--it's vast, so you might want to tackle it in two mornings.
Afternoon, do check out the Mercado de Antón Martín (bottom floor is the "mercado gastronómico" with lots of small eateries, like LaLópez Bar & Sincio (both very good, excellent prices). Good prices on jamón ibérico at the charcuteries and great cheeses for snacking in your apartment. Bread at Levadura Madre. For another great spot for charcuterie, salads, cheeses, hot tapas is Casa González, a much loved classic on Calle León. Back room has marble top tables for casual evening dining, excellent prices, top quality. Casa González "catered" our NYE dinner at our hotel!

I would make reservations that morning or Wed. night for a dinner spot in the neighborhood because your neighborhood has lots of hotels with tourists that will be competing for the spaces. (Calle del Prado is "hotel row"). People are dining a bit earlier in Madrid now than in the past, and especially in your neighborhood, as tourists want to dine earlier. So 8:30-9 is fine.

For Café Central jazz, I did a dummy booking today to check how far in advance you need to book. It looks like today you could book today for tomorrow. Sets at 8 and 10 pm.Friday-

Breakfast each day in your hood-
You might have breakfast at a new place we found on Calle León 10, almost to the its end where it meets Calle Atocha. It's GOSTO. There's also MOTTEAU in your hood at San Pedro 9 (nice cakes).

Friday,
Palacio Real would take about 90 min. to see. Do go to the new belvedere at the end of the Plaza de la Artillería (between the Almudena Cathedral and the Palace) for the expansive views over the city.
If you need refreshments then, we like the atmospheric, century old tavern, Casa Ciriaco at Calle Mayor 84 (like it better than the always crowded El Anciano Rey de los Vinos on Bailén)

Mercado San Miguel is a tourist magnet and will be very crowded. While I like Arzábal's food (they've taken over much of the market), prices here are higher than other spots.

For La Latina tapas: La Parda, behind Mercado de la Cebada, features Andalusian tapas, La Bobia at San Millán 3 is Asturian, Juana la Loca at Plaza Puerta de Moros is creative Basque (great tortilla española), Sanlúcar at San Isidro Labrador 14 is another Andalusian and Casa Lucas at Cava Baja 30 is also creative.
But I would reverse La Latina and put it on Thursday evening, as it can be a ZOO on weekends.

Dancing in your 'hood: I haven't been to Teatro Kapital at Atocha for years, but it has been reinvented recently with 7 stories of fun.
https://www.teatrokapital.com.

Saturday,
The Museo Sorolla currently has a truly wonderful special exhibit of his paintings of children, "La Edad Dichosa" so very special, but you can only see it in the afternoons from 14:45 until 20:00 h. And get tickets online the day of or day before, as last month it was crowded. This museum and its special exhibits are a really special treat. His house is also a decorative arts museum, with his original furnishings and ceramic collection. Gorgeous. Don't miss!!!

So, what I would do is hit the Plaza Olavide in the am for a late morning coffee, visit Anden O, then early lunch near the Sorolla in Chamberí (Tortillas de Gabino? PerretixCO Chamberí?), then on to the Sorolla at 14:45 or later.

Mercado de la Paz at corner of Lagasca & Ayala in Salamanca is my favorite market and one of Madrid's best, if not THE best, as in extremely high quality and great people watching. A slice of tortilla to share (it's a quarter of a tortilla) at Casa Dani is a must.
The Templo de Debod at dusk is quite a hike from Calle Lagasca so you may want to taxi.

Sunday,
The Toledo Cathedral doesn't open until 2 pm (2-6:30) and several museums close early on Sundays, so it's not the best day. If you haven't been to Cuenca, it could be a real treat. It's a 55 min. ride on the AVE or Avlo, then the L1 bus to the top of the historic quarter to its Plaza Mayor.

Monday,
In your Malasaña & Chueca wanderings, don't miss Bodega la Ardosa at Colón 13 (another great tortilla). The Mercado de San Antón has just been reinvented--we attended the inauguration last month, and Octavio there is one of the city's best charcuterías (jamón y quesos) and great pastries can be had at Madremiga, (best almond croissants ever!) both on the 1st floor.
We buy our olive oil at La Comunal at Mejía Lequerica 1 in Salesas, excellent selection--owner can advise you. We always bring back Abbae de Queiles from Navarra but he also carries La Torre from Andalucía and other Andalusian labels.

San Isidro: check the program here- stuff will happen at Las Vistillas, Plaza Mayor, La Pradera de San Isidro, Debod,
https://www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on/sanisidro-madrid

Maribel is the expert, and we always rely her advice! One small additional idea - we were in Spain a few weeks ago and spent the last day of our trip in Madrid, and we really enjoyed the special exhibition at the Thyssen-Bornemisza, Hyperreal: Art of Trompe L'Oeil (open through May 22). I've day tripped to Toledo a couple of times on previous trips (both on weekends) and decided that I really need to stay there to best experience and appreciate it - and will someday. On the other hand, we really enjoyed a day trip to Cuenca (from Valencia) in 2019. From the train station (which is outside of town), we took a taxi to the parador and then walked across the bridge and all around, before taking the bus back to the train. Enjoy!

ms_go,
I was so sorry I missed that Thyssen exhibit! The special exhibits there are so well curated and easy sees. Thanks so much for mentioning it to Laura. Hope you and mr._go enjoyed your stay in Madrid, my favorite city!

Which reminds me, we really enjoyed the special Picasso exhibit at the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, not too big and another easy see. This museum that some visitors miss sits right across from the Four Seasons and it also has a fine collection of Goya paintings.
https://www.realacademiabellasartessanfernando.com/es

You may want to visit the Royal Palace of Aranjuez - https://www.patrimonionacional.es/en...alace-aranjuez.

50 klms south of Madrid. Open on Sundays according to the website.

Muchas gracias, todas! SO much helpful information in these responses. I'm already thinking once won't be enough to Madrid and I haven't even been yet lol. I promise to pay it forward with a trip report when I return home (might try to do while on the trip as I've seen others do, but that's less likely!).

Laura,
You've really done your research! I'm impressed.

If you decide on the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Aranjuez as a day trip, you reach it by commuter/suburban train (Cercanías) from Atocha station, rather than by the high speed AVE/Avlo that does to Cuenca or the AVANT that takes you to Toledo.
Look for the sign directing you to the Cercanías station and it tracks.
For Aranjuez one takes the C3. Ride takes 43 minutes. You can't purchase tickets in advance as you can for the high-speed lines.
See the schedule here-
https://www.renfe.com/es/en/suburban...rid/timetables
It operates from 5:12 am until 11:37 pm, since it's for commuters.

There's also the vintage Strawberry Train (Aranjuez is famous for its strawberries served with whipped cream) that runs on Sat/Sun in May, but it's a whole day affair, departing Atocha at 10:44, returning on 6:46.
https://www.esmadrid.com/en/strawberry-train

The Aranjuez Palace gardens should be very pretty in May. Too many great choices!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maribel (Post 17353916)

Thanks, Maribel. We did! We always enjoy time in Madrid, even if we just spend it walking around. Just a short stay this time - departing from there after a week in Seville (first time), which we loved!