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Old Apr 24th, 2012, 03:47 AM
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Favourite Dodogne Caves

A memorable part of our 2006 visit to the Dordogne was visiting four of the many caves in the area - Font de Gaume, Peche Merle, Lacaux II and La Cave. We will probably revisit at least the first two of these on our upcoming trip this June but are trying to decide which others to explore as well. I've read that many less known caves are just as impressive as the famous ones and would appreciate recommendations.

So far, some that sound appealing are: Gouffre de Proumeyssac, Les Grottes de Maxange, Gouffre de Padirac, Grotte de Villars, Grotte de Cougnac and Grotte de Rouffignac as well as theTroglodyte houses at Belves.
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Old Apr 24th, 2012, 04:12 AM
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To me Proumeyssac and Padirac are really impressive, and worth the visit. Maxange is not in the same league, in terms of size, but interesting if you're in the area. The troglodyte dwellings under Belves are interesting for the anthropology/human history aspect, rather than because they are caves. But I think there's only one tour a day, in the afternoon, so you'd need to check with the Belves Office de Tourisme. Le Buisson has a good market on Fridays, so you could maybe combine Maxange with the Belves visit, and a visit to the Abbaye & Cloisters in Cadouin, which is a lovely detour.
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Old Apr 24th, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Rouffignac is interesting, but the tours are exclusively in French and the narrative adds a great deal to the tour. We take our guests to Rouffignac in the morning, and then Lascaux II in the afternoon if they want to see more.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...57623164797649
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Old Apr 24th, 2012, 09:37 AM
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You might want to visit the small but interesting Grotte du Sorcier, down the lane from my house in St-Cirq. It has a rather rare human image in it. I don't find Proumeyssac very interesting at all, but we have similar caves in Luray, VA, that I've visited often, so maybe that's why. It's just rock formations - no prehistoric chromatics. I like Padirac, but again, it's just rock formations and an underground river. If you haven't been to Les Combarelles, I'd include that.
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Old Apr 24th, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Hi Marilyn. We liked Maxange, but it is certainly a smaller cave. No prehistoric paintings,but amazing formations. Having finally figured out which way stalagmites and stalactites went, you can see them going sideways there, which is really weird.

It's a while since we were in the Troglodyte dwellings in Belves, but it was interesting. Perhaps a stop on the way to Cadouin, which is really stunning. Also St Avit and the tiny church in Montferrand, which hardly anyone goes to, but which has some of the best frescoes I've ever seen. http://cettesemaineacarlux.blogspot....1_archive.html
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 02:54 AM
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Obviously this is all quite subjective and I will continue researching but thanks to everyone for your input!

rosemaryoz, we are staying near Les Milandes this time, a house exchange, so Belves and Le Buisson are quite accessible. Thanks for suggesting other places to visit nearby! I like to group sights by area. We definitely will return to Tremolat for lunch or dinner and that seems to be very close to Le Buisson as well.
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 02:59 AM
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Michael, I know exactly what you mean about missing out on the narration from our visit to Peche Merle. The brochure given to anglophiles had only a smattering of the information provided by the tour guide to francophiles. One German woman was quite irate that tours were only given in French when everyone in our group, including the guide, could speak English but only a few were fluent in French.

Your photos of places we've already been to and places we hope to visit this time are lovely! Were you able to take the Rouffignac one in the cave? One of the things we especially liked about La Cave, all "concretions" as far as I can remember, was that photography was allowed. Thanks!
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 03:10 AM
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StCirq, we drove up to your local cave last time so unknowingly passed right by your house. I've wondered whether any of the local caves, like Domme, are worthwhile.

We enjoy caves for either formations or artwork and those with both, like Peche Merle, are a bonus. The Grotte de Cougnac appeals to me because it has a role in "Le Boucher", set mainly in Tremolat. Thanks for suggesting Les Comberelles!
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 03:31 AM
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Carlux, it's easy to differentiate between stalagmites and stalactites if you picture "mites" going up and then "tites" going down! Just try to forget that image now.

I'll always remember the magic of our very first cave, Font de Gaume, which you booked for us back in 2006! A bonus for visiting Font de Gaume in June is that we saw some tiny orchids beside the path on the walk uphill.

I appreciate your suggestions for other places to visit near Belves and have bookmarked your blog (to study further) on my iMac. Bookmarks then miraculously transfer over to my iPad as well, all ready for our trip! Thanks!
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 04:22 AM
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I loved Les Combarelles because it was much less touristy, but you do have to bend and stretch a bit.
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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moonlyn,

The Rouffignac picture the copy of a postcard. The last time we went there, a middle-aged man tried to sneak a picture at the beginning of the train ride and the guide berated him quite severely, saying that anyone trying to act like a child will be treated accordingly.
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Old Apr 25th, 2012, 09:10 AM
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I learned to differentiate between stalactites and stalagmites as a child thusly: c = ceiling; g = ground.

There's also Bara-Bahau in Le Bugue, BTW. A lot like Rouffignac.
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Old Apr 26th, 2012, 01:26 PM
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Thanks, Ackislander! Two recommendations now for Les Combarelles.

Michael, I just might have to return to La Cave then as well to take photos. My battery ran out part way through the tour and it has lots of wonderful concretions that I didn't get a chance to photograph last time, not knowing that it was allowed!

StCirq, thanks to you, I'll now remember the "c"s and the "g"s as well as the "mites" and the "tites"!
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Old Apr 26th, 2012, 04:29 PM
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I believe that only in caves devoid of human drawings and paintings will photography be allowed. Rouffignac does not have interesting formations aside from some domes.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 12:18 AM
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Moolyn, if you're looking for a lunchstop in Cadouin, there's Restaurant de L'Abbaye, directly opposite the church. It's a small family-run place, serving rustic, authentic food, but very popular with the locals, so you'd be advised to reserve a table before you wander through the Abbey & Cloisters.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 05:38 AM
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bookmarking
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Michael, you are probably correct. I don't recall any artwork at La Cave.

rosemaryoz, thanks for the lunch stop suggestion! I'll add it to my notes.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Old May 27th, 2012, 01:52 PM
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A heads up for those hoping to visit Font de Gaume this summer - all tours are booked until the end of August, according to the instant response I received when I tried to make a booking by email. Visitors are presently restricted to just 100 a day compared to 200 a day on my previous trip in 2006.

[email protected]

It is still an option to arrive before the ticket office opens at 9:30am and try to get one of the few tickets kept for that particular day but I have no idea whether it's possible to get a tour in English this way or how many people will already be waiting in line.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 02:32 PM
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We were very fortunate that many years ago we saw Altamira before it was closed to the public. For my 50th birthday, one of the places we visited was Dordogne. And of all the caves you have not visited we liked Rouffignac.

If you local library has a copy of "The Nature of Paleolithic Art" by R. Dale Gutherie, try to secure a copy. Otherwise it is a bit pricey. It is quite instructive.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Nature-Pal...owViewpoints=1

What I find most interesting about this drawings is the inherent desire to communicate with one another. When I stare at these depictions, I think someone 15,000 or 17,000 years ago wanted others to know about his life and what he considered important. And often the art work itself is extraordinary considering their use of dyes and their sense of perspective.
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