RMMR2

Hello,

Those of you who've been to (or live in) Venice, what is your favorite place to get an espresso or cappucino in the morning? I'd be especially interested in places in the western part of San Marco (closer to Dorsoduro), because that's where we'll be staying, but will travel further for something wonderful.

For those who know it, we loved the Taza Doro (sp?) bar in Rome--so I'm hoping for something comparable in Venice.

Thanks.

Peter_S_Aus

The bar Ai Artisti in Campo San Barnaba has been our favourite. Click on my name to see the trip reports that I have written.

Marija

We liked Caffe del Doge:

http://www.caffedeldoge.com

Judging by their website It seems to have gone big time now with international franchises.

NYCFoodSnob

The Ai Artisti in Campo San Barnaba is a neighborhood hole-in-the-wall bar. It's fine for morning coffee if you stay around the campo, but there's absolutely nothing special about their espresso, or anything else they serve. It is <i>the</i> neighborhood hangout, though, and their staff is young and fun.

Caffe del Doge is a large franchise chain with an interesting history, with roots in Venice. But the original owner sold many years ago, and the company has been based in Padua since 2001.

Considering Venice is the birthplace of coffee in Italy, the indigenous roasters of upper class history are long gone from the modern Venice landscape. With only 59,000 residents, why bother? The closest thing you'll find to a Tazza d'Oro in Venice is Torrefazione Marchi, all the way over in Cannaregio.

There's a new (chain) girl in town near Campo dei Frari called Bottega del Caffè Dersut. Dersut is based in Treviso, which is a little closer to Venice. But watching the number of younger Venetians clamor for a spot at this new, chic-looking bar, giving the neighborhood staple Bar Dogale a bit of agita, one could assume Dersut is on to something big in Venice. I don't usually drink coffee mid-day, so I haven't tried it yet.

caroline_edinburgh

I'm not really a coffee drinker but when we used to holiday here, we also liked the Bar Ai Artisti for that 2nd breakfast - if you're not too late, their selection of pastries is better than most and helpfully labelled. We only ever stood at the bar for a quick espresso & pastry, though, but Campo San Barnaba is a nice enough place to hang about in and we sometimes sit outside there for an evening Spritz. But not terribly near where you are staying.

There are a number of cafes in Campo Santo Stefano but we've never been for morning coffee - our favourite for an early evening drink is All'Angolo but it's difficult to get a table outside.

Somewhere else close to you but where we've also only been for evening drinks is the Cafe Brasilia on Rio Tera' dei Assassini, which has lots of seating inside and several tables outside - I assume from the name is should have good coffee but I've only ever drunk alcohol there

If you did want to buy coffee from a shop which grinds its own and has an interesting range, there's a nice place on, excitingly, the Calle del Cafetiere (or something like that - don't have access to my maps at present) - in Cannaregio but a lot further east and so that bit nearer you than the place mentioned by the previous poster. If you are facing the hospital you turn right and carry straight on for a couple of minutes. Probably not worth a detour just for a midmorning cuppa, though - they've just got a couple of stools at the bar and I've no idea if they have pastries or anything in the morning. We've just been there to buy coffee for DH.

RMMR2

Thanks all of your for your recommendations--they sound promising.

NYCFoodSnob--I had no idea that Venice was the birthplace of coffee in Italy--sad then, if they don't have a place on par with Tazza D'Oro.

Still hoping the other coffee drinkers out there will have some additional suggestions, hopefully closer to western San Marco!

Pepper_von_snoot

There is a coffee bar every five feet in Venice.

I would just pick one that is convenient to your hotel.

Thin

RMMR2

Thin-thank you; I had gotten the impression from previous responses that there weren't many coffee bars in Venice, or at least, that there weren't many good ones. I'd love to go to a coffee bar convenient to our apartment, but not if the coffee is poor.

wrenwood

What time do most open in the morning?

Pepper_von_snoot

I did not have one cup of bad coffee whilst in Venice.

And anyone who has stated that there is an absence of coffee bars in Venice is either blind or stupid.

I saw places around the Rialto Market open at 7 am.

THIN

anna_roz

Ciak 1 in the San Polo district. Equally good for a quick lunch and an afternoon Spritz Aperol.

Pepper_von_snoot

And I am almost positive that all those eateries around the Rialto vaporetto stop were open at 6;30 am.

I am sure it would be the same for the coffee bars around Santa Lucia train station/Ferrovia.

thin

RMMR2

RE: "I did not have one cup of bad coffee whilst in Venice.

And anyone who has stated that there is an absence of coffee bars in Venice is either blind or stupid." ---

Perhaps the impression I got from others--that there are relatively few coffee bars (or good coffee bars) in Venice-- was unwarranted, since no one who responded to my request mentioned blindness, nor seemed particularly stupid.

So I could simply try the coffee places located close to our apartment in San Marco (which I described previously as being in the "western" part of SM; if that was inaccurate, I know for sure that it's in the part of SM that's closest to Dorsoduro). But if someone has a favorite coffee place in that area, I'd love to hear more about it.

Thanks.

zoecat

If you don't mind crossing the Grand Canal-

There is a quiet, non-touristy cafe where Rio Terra Saloni meets Rio Terra Catecumeni in Dorsoduro, fairly close to the Santa Maria Della Salute Church. They have outside seating facing the quiet intersection. Sorry, I cannot remember the name of the cafe but if you use google maps and enter the "street" names you can easily find the intersection.

<<anna_roz on Jul 30, 12 at 9:39am
Ciak 1 in the San Polo district. Equally good for a quick lunch and an afternoon Spritz Aperol.>>

I agree!

Can you share with us a link to your apartment location? From your description, I can't really figure out where your apartment is located and who knows, some of us may know a really nice cafe close by.

<<NYCFoodSnob--I had no idea that Venice was the birthplace of coffee in Italy--sad then, if they don't have a place on par with Tazza D'Oro.>>

What is it about Tazza D'Oro that you like and are looking for in Venice? Taste of the coffee, service, atmosphere?

RMMR2

zoecat, thanks!

What I like about Tazza D'oro is primarily the beverage itself (I only ordered espresso there, so I can't comment on the cappucino, etc., but my husband raves about the Caffe Americano)--it is perfect. But also the atmosphere--it has been there for a long time and it feels like it. It's a traditional stand-up bar (pay the cashier first, stand at the counter while the barista makes your drink; drink it standing up, then leave as soon as you're done). It also didn't hurt that it was only a few steps away from our hotel--so very convenient first thing in the morning when one NEEDS one's caffeine! Having said that, I'm certainly not averse to a "sit-down" place--the coffee itself is the main thing.

Here's the link to a map on the Truly Venice website, which shows the apartment (marked by a square labeled "Doge"):

http://www.trulyveniceapartments.com...rtamento_id=40

Thanks.

NYCFoodSnob

Tazza d'Oro is a favorite bean of mine. A coffee bean connoisseur will understand what you meant by your query. You can order Tazza d'Oro beans online and take them with you. You're in an apartment, for goodness sakes. All apartments in Italy have a Bialetti.

Rome is lucky to have a few "star" beans, but most cities in Italy don't. Bean brands get shipped in and are roasted elsewhere. You can ask any bar owner in Venice what bean they use, and they'll tell you. The brand name is often advertised on the cup. Venice, like Italy itself, offers many popular brands.

Baristas come in all shapes and sizes in Venice. If you happen to be a coffee connoisseur, no two espressos will taste alike.

It looks like your apartment is located near Palazzo Mocenigo. That specific neighborhood may not have a coffee bar. There are none listed on my older (Venetian) map, which shows bars. You stand a better chance walking toward Campo San Stefano. There is a branch of Rizzo Pane on Calle de la Botteghe. They will be open early, selling fresh bread and danish. I don't think they serve coffee, but I haven't been to that location in many years.

I'm sure you'll find something just fine a short walk away. That's half of the fun of getting to know the neighborhood. I wouldn't miss a visit to the infamous Rosa Salva Pasticceria at Palazzo Franchetti. They open at 10 AM. Closed Sunday.

But if you want a super delicious cup of coffee in Venice, say at 7 AM, I'd bring my own beans. I think most of the espresso in Venice is a disappointment. And, yes, I'm a bean connoisseur and a food snob.

zoecat

That's a lovely apartment in a quiet but central area of Venice.

You might wander in the direction of the Rialto and you will probably find a good cafe/coffee place not too far from your apartment.

NYCFoodSnob

The Rialto has too many tourists for my taste. I find the scene obnoxious. There are a few old Venetian establishments that should not be missed, and of course the market, but I avoid the area around the Rialto as much as I can.

I would explore the busy walkway to Campo San Luca, that locals favor. There's some fun shopping along those calli that many tourists never see. If all else fails, you can try Bar Torino in Campo San Luca and report back. I haven't been there in years, but I remember it being a fun place to soak Venice in.

caroline_edinburgh

Like I said, I think the Caffe Brasilia on Rio Tera' dei Assassini is your best bet for good coffee near your apartment.

Another coffee shop you may find atmospheric is a bit further up the main drag going north, on Calle del Lovo on the right immediately after crossing the bridge (and just after Calle dei Fabbri, location of the butcher I mentioned in your other thread).

The Rizzo Pane on Calle de la Botteghe is the grocery shop I mentioned (where DH is right now, getting the bread - we've realised they have a lot better selection than I thought when we were at school & couldn't shop until after 1pm!) - but it's just a shop, they don't do coffee (although they will make up filled rolls to take away at lunchtime).

worldinabag

Ciao

Your apartment will have a percolator (first priority for an Italian!). Buy good quality ground beans and make your own. My favourite memory is home brewed coffee in the morning watching the Venetian water traffic from my window. Priceless (at a fraction of the price paid in a cafe)