Favorite experiences on the Amalfi Coast
 

I will be spending 5 and 1/2 days on the Amalfi coast at the end of May 2002. (staying in Positano at La Fenice) I would love to hear about travelors most enjoyable, interesting and relaxing experiences in this area. We plan to rent a car-so I would love to hear about "off the beaten path" day trips as well as "cannot be missed" destinations.

We LOVED the Amalfi Coast. The little town of Ravello was our favorite. It is small but beautiful. Great ceramic shops and a wonderful Italian Restaurant in the town. (E-Mail me for the name and I'll look it up) We actually checkd out of our hotel in Positano and moved to Ravello to stay.<BR><BR>A great hotel in Positano is the one right on the water. I think it starts with Buci???? Very nice ooms, modern bathrooms, amazng view of water, nice service,and great restaurant.<BR><BR><BR>Have a great time.

I think it's called "Bacco di Buci".

We ate in the less formal area in Bacco di Buci and it was OK. The more formal restaurant may be better.<BR><BR>As far as a favorite experience, without a doubt it was renting a boat at Positano for a few hours and cruising up and down the coast. We rented a speedboat so you can go pretty fast which was tons of fun. You also get to see things you wouldn't otherwise - from the perspective of the ocean looking at the mainland. It was the highlight of our whole trip and we also went to Rome, Florence and Paris!

Favorite experience: The ultra-famous Belvedere dell'Infinito of the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello - without question the most beautiful point on the Amalfi Coast, and one of the most ravishingly spectacular vistas on the Italian peninsula. It's a fifteen/twenty minute walk from the main town square, reachable only on foot.

Thanks for the information-keep it coming! I know we will go to Ravello-it was a hard decision to not stay in the town. <BR>Chrissy-I would love as much information as possible on renting a boat. That sounds like so much fun. Do you think this will be possible in May (18th-23rd)?

I was just looking through our journal of time in the area last summer - here are some places we especially enjoyed:<BR>Vietri sul Mare for ceramics and just being a typical family-filled village<BR>Cetara - a Greek look about this place, sugar-cube houses tumbling down to a tiny fishermans cove, and a great restaurant- Aquapazza<BR>in the town of Minori - stop at Salvatore de Riso's cafe/bakery for some of the most delicious pastries you'll ever taste, and their homemade limoncello and cream of melon liqueur.<BR>Ravello- eat at Cumpa Cosima - Netta will treat you like an old friend as you enjoy a delicious meal that's Italian home-cooking. End the meal with her home made limoncello which is the absolute best we tasted.<BR>Enjoy!

Dorrie,<BR><BR>You will love the Amalfi coast. Vietra Su Mare is one end of the coast. <BR><BR>On the Northern end is Sorrento. You can 'discover' a craft factory in Sorrento and treat yourself to an inlaid wood music box.<BR><BR>A daytrip to Capri (staying is better because the daytrippers go away in the evening) with a small boat charter for a trip around the island is great - can include the grottos if you like.<BR><BR>Since you have a car other side trips could include:<BR><BR>Naples - great museum downtown and at Capodiment.<BR><BR>Cacerta - mini Versailles<BR><BR>Pompeii and Herculaneum - ruins of Vesuvius eruptions. (Naples museum is a must if you do these as that is where the artifacts are kept)<BR><BR>Paestum - best Greek ruins anywhere . . . including Greece.<BR><BR>Have a great time.

The references in the previous message should be to (1) Vietri sul Mare, near Salerno; (2)the Capodimonte Museum in the City of Naples (the other important museum being the Archeological), and (3) the Royal Palace of Caserta, near Naples.

Can't add much new to above, just a little detail. We drove into Positano from Rome, coming in via Vietre sul Mare. Driving the Amalfi coast from there to Positano is a real EVENT, and there are a few threads about that subject here. (I loved driving that coast!) One of our days, we got in the car and drove back to Vietre sul Mare and shopped for ceramics, and had a great time. The stores there are authentic, and some little stores and shops you can actually mingle with the owners working on the ceramics, or hand painting the products. All were very friendly and talkative, and I remember one in particular. A husband and wife team, probably early 30's or so. He did the creating, she did the painting. She was Romanian, he Italian, and she had a sister in L.A., if I recall. They had a little shop just up from the center parking lot, and she showed us how she painted the lemony type design on a saucer or two. Facinating.<BR>Be aware, at least a couple of years ago, they weren't very well equipped to ship stuff home. Maybe that's good news, cause then we could only buy a couple small pieces, whatever we had room for. Also, at the time, power costs in southern Italy were extremely high, so many of the stores kept all their lights off, and you had only the light from the windows. If it looked like you might spend a bunch of money, the lights magically came on.<BR>On our way back to Positano from Vietre, we stopped at Amalfi, and had a fantastic schrimp dinner in a cafe on a second floor patio that looked out over the little square. It was really one of our most memorable days during our 2 1/2 weeks in Italy. Hope you enjoy.

Dorrie - I don't recall the name of the place we rented the boat from, but you can't miss it (Lucabella perhaps?). It's right at the beginning of the beach. They had enough to choose from - you didn't need to reserve one, we just did it on the spot. There are all different kinds of boats at all different prices and you rent by the hour. We did two hours which we thought was fine, but if anything we would have done more not less. It was about $90 US for the two hours and worth every penny.<BR><BR>They put the boat in the water for you, help you in and show you how to use it, then you're on your own. It was easy. You can also have someone take you out if you want. We were a little nervous at first, especially heading away from the coast but you get used to it quickly. We don't own a boat, so maybe it's different if you're experienced. It didn't take long at all to get comfortable though. You did have to get used the bumbs - the front of the boat crashing down after the waves or wake of another boat. We found it calmer toward the coast so we stayed near the coast. In the first 5-10 minutes I remember thinking "What did I get myself into?", but then you learn how to take the bumps better and head toward the coast to avoid the waves (no major waves, but it still affected the little boat).<BR><BR>I would think May would be fine. According to weather.com it looks like it's the same climate as October when we went. I would bring sunscreen and something to keep your hair out of your face if it's long. And bring your camera!<BR><BR>I can't think of anything else. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I'm so jealous! Just took my first trip to Italy last September. Ended my 3 week journey in the Amalfi area.<BR><BR>Positano really was as beautiful as imagined. I arrived after dark, after a marathon day of travel, but was well rewarded. It IS quite toursity (for good reason I suspect) so I didn't need to draw upon any of my elementary language skills. If I had a car, I would have done much more exploring.<BR><BR>Hotel California in Positano is a wonderful, unpretentious gem, run warmly by "Maria"-beautiful views,etc, Not only is the setting romantic and the price reasonable, but the family was more welcoming than any other place I'd stayed. I was traveling solo so I might have been more aware of this. However it sounds like you already made a great hotel choice. <BR><BR>On the way back from Ravello, I got off the bus at Amalfi and walked about 10 minutes east (i think) to a smaller, less congested, place.."Atrani", I think. Nice break from vespas, gelato eaters,etc. Explored some very narrow white washed streets and felt as though I had the place to myself. THere is a cute square with a clocktower, a handfull of casual spots for lunch, old men playing cards, and so on. It seemed a little more "Italian" than other areas. <BR><BR>In Pos., there's a beach to the right (if facing the sea) of the main one that I enjoyed. It's a short pleasant walk up and over a seaside cliff.Little less crowded, but with good facilities. I'll never forget a few peaceful sunset jogs I had there. <BR><BR>I thought Pompeii was definately worth the trip. It was an easy excursion for me as I was staying in Sorrento (which was somewhat of a mistake)during that part of my trip. Spend the $10 for a guided group tour -they form spontaniously on site and are very informative. Convienent commuter train service there too.<BR><BR>If I had a car I would have visited Salerno. I heard the beaches and ruins there are very nice. And of course it's the home place of that great buffalo mozz cheese that I'd been making my tomato sandwiches with for DAYS! :)<BR><BR>well, buon viaggo! Write if I can help further. ciao-Lisa<BR>

Hearing all the wonderful things everyone has done in this area, gets me even more excited! Planning for a trip is half the fun-so I have saved all this information (in addition to the books I have). After Positano, we will be spending 3 days in Venice and then home-I wish we could take a longer trip.

The Positano hotel/restaurant that people are referring to is Buca di Bacco. We are planning to go in May, after cancelling a Sep. 2001 trip.<BR><BR>Kathy

While we were in Positano, we took a bus along the coast to Amalfi then another bus up to Ravello -- as an earlier post said, the view from the Belvedere is just amazing. So was lunch at Cumpa Cosimo -- we didn't realize she was famous till we noticed press clippings from the Washington Post and other papers!<BR><BR>While waiting for the bus in Positano, we also discovered a wonderful ceramic shop. I don't remember the name, but it's near the entrance to the Sirenuse hotel. We bought plates and dishes as well as some gifts -- they are a wonderful reminder of that vacation every time we use them. The shop was VERY well organized, took care of packing and shipping via air freight. (Everything arrived in great condition, and opening the box was very exciting!) While we were there, another couple were collecting a huge stack of plates they wanted to use for their restaurant in LA.<BR><BR>We had also discovered the beach mentioned earlier, to the right (as you face the sea) of the main Positano beach -- just follow a signed footpath around the headland. Nice small restaurant for lunch, and chair/umbrella rental was a much better deal.<BR><BR>I am SO ready to go again. Have a great trip.<BR>Buon viaggio!

Ravello is one of the most beautiful places in the world. I agree with GAC and others about the Belvedere. I go to Ravello to walk through the Villa Cimbrone grounds and eat! K

Dorrie,<BR>Didn't realize you're going to Venicein addition to Amalfi. I'm thinking of Venice again this February (a few days before Carnevale and a few days during). If you have any economical hotel suggestions, please let me know . I stayed at Pensione Accademia-beautiful place- but am trying to spend less money this time.<BR>Have a great trip! <BR>Lisa

Dorrie--will extract portions of several of my posts on this forum last June after spending a week driving the Amalfi Coast. <BR> Posted 6/18/01: <BR> We visited Ravello three times; the views of both mountains and coast are the<BR> most spectacular on the Coast. The best view is from Villa Cimbrone's Terrazza<BR> dell'Infinito, the far end of the Villa from the entrance--absolutely stunning view.<BR> Villa Rufolo's gardens also offer spectacular views. If you don't want to pay the<BR> entrance fees for the Villas, walk up Via R. Wagner (right next to the<BR> Information Office beside the Duomo) to Via S. Giovanni del Toro/Via<BR> dell'Episcopio (same street, two names--one to left, one to right). Go left about<BR> 100 meters--just past Hotel Palumbo Palazzo Confalone--and there is a public<BR> courtyard (Belvedere Principessa di Piemonte) w. a beautiful view of the<BR> countryside and coast. In the early evening, you can also hear the strolling<BR> musicians from the restaurant just below while you enjoy the view. <BR><BR> If you enjoy classical music, the Ravello concerts are a wonderful experience.<BR> Performed in the courtyard of Villa Rufolo at 9:30 p.m., you have time for a<BR> wonderful meal at Cumpa' Cosimo, the sunset, and a unique evening of fine<BR> music in a charming setting, plus a tast of limoncello at intermission!<BR> Reservations for the concert are on a FCFS basis; I booked over the Web about<BR> two weeks in advance, and got front row center seats. The food at C. Cosimo is<BR> great: the home-made pasta is fantastic, and the veal in lemon sauce ("gravy"),<BR> is the best I have ever eaten! Reservations are needed. <BR><BR> We had no trouble parking in Ravello; used the public lot just below the Piazza<BR> Duomo each time w. no problem. You can pick up a free map of Ravello at the<BR> Information Office. <BR><BR> We also did a day trip to Amalfi, and it's much the same as Positano in some<BR> respects: lots of shops, tourists, and things to do, but also dozens of tour<BR> busses, inadequate parking, etc. We did all of the guide book things in Amalfi,<BR> and spent a wonderful day there. We even found the covered passageway (Via<BR> Annunziatella) leading up to Cappuccini Convento, w. spectacular views along<BR> the way. It's a pretty steep walk and difficult to find, so the easiest approach is<BR> probably to take the elevator up to C.C., and then walk down V. Annuziatella to<BR> Amalfi.

Dorrie--Driving the Amalfi Coast is an absolute blast--IF you enjoy driving! A quote from Bill Bryson's book about travels in Europe describes it well:<BR>"...an exhilirating combination of terror and excitement, like having a heart attack and enjoying it."<BR>I posted extensively on this subject last June, including some humorous "rules" for driving the Coast. I'll bring them to the top for you if I can find them. If not,you might try searching for "Rules for Driving the Amalfi Coast" and see if you can recover them. For whatever reason, I've not had much luck with text searches.<BR>Enjoy!

Again-thank you for the information! Lisa we are staying where you stayed in Venice-so I cannot give you any first hand advice. I am glad to hear you liked it.<BR><BR>Az-thanks for your help-I have read your trip report-it was great! Thanks for topping your comments on driving.<BR><BR>Dorrie