zoecat

<<I already have the TCI map. Thanks for giving me the confidence to take the "white" roads. Are they driveable in a compact car? Four wheel drive not needed?>>

No problem with your compact car.

aimeekm

Thanks for the recs and link CaliNurse. I have Montefioralle on the to do list!

As for the agritourismo, working farm aspect. I should have been more specific in I love the farm animal part, which didn't seem all that common. Probably seems weird to a lot of people, but being a city girl, farm animals are a novelty.

scrb11

Just curious, if you answer that you were at a farm, near livestock, on the Customs Landing Card when you return to the US, how do they treat you?

Most of the time, probably not an issue but there have been hoof and mouse disease scares recently haven't there?

Tommmo

Isn't that foot in mouth disease?

aimeekm

Hmm ... well that's not a question I was expecting. I'm already intending on bending a few customs laws by bringing home some cured sausage. It's probably not wise to hang around longer in the something to declare line, to let the beagles gets to me. Since the last livestock I saw was at the fair last year, I figure that the chance of me spreading hoof and mouth is just about nil.

aimeekm

I just received my new guidebooks today. I was most excited about "Osterie & Locande d'Italia: A Guide to Traditional Places to Eat and Stay in Italy." (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/8884991145) I had hoped it would be a bit of a bible to guarantee we wouldn't have a bad meal. I'm sooo disappointed! There are so few restaurant recommendations in the areas we will be. For example of 2 in Siena, 0 in Montepulciano, 1 in Pienza, 1 in San Gim, 0 in Castellina, 0 in Panzano.

So it looks like I'm adding some in depth restaurant research to my to do list .....

aimeekm

Good news! Luca from Hills & Roads has confirmed for Tuesday 11/1. I wasn't sure he would be available because of the holiday.

He's put together an itinerary I'm excited about. It has some small villages, a winery, a farmhouse lunch and a cashmere farm.

annhig

It has some small villages, a winery, a farmhouse lunch and a cashmere farm.>>

a cashmere farm? i have visions of wooly jumpers on legs.

perhaps something like this: www.thebigsheep.co.uk?

aimeekm

<<a cashmere farm? i have visions of wooly jumpers on legs.>>

Too funny!!! Now I can't get that vision out of my head!

A little googling tells me we'll probably end up here http://www.chianticashmere.com/

aimeekm

Have been working on a day by day itinerary.

Would love some input!

<b>Day 1: Sunday</b>
Land 6 pm
Dinner : <font color="red"> where? So many recommended restaurants are closed on Sun.</font>

<b>Day 2: Monday</b>
Pick up car @ FLR
Drive and explore Chianti
Want to see Greve & Panzano
Go to Coop – drinks and breakfast items
<font color="red">Which other towns?</font>
Check in at Palazzo Squarcialupi in Castellina (ideally between 3-5)
Dinner in Castellina

<b>Day 3: Tuesday (All Saints Day)</b>
Hills & Roads 9 – 5
<font color="red">Dinner in Castellina or somewhere else?</font>

<b>Day 4: Wednesday</b>
Siena: Market Day (yay!!)
<font color="red">Where is the most convenient parking lot for market day?</font>
Lunch in Siena
<font color="red">Where to spend balance of day? </font>
<font color="red">Dinner: where?</font>

<b>Day 5: Thursday</b>
Check out Palazzo Squarcialupi
Visit Montepulciano, lunch
Check in Casa Frati
Explore Pienza
Dinner in Pienza (Latte di Luna?) or Casa Frati

<b>Day 6: Friday</b>
Explore Val D’Orcia
Visit Montalcino
<font color="red">Winery visit, maybe?</font>
Dinner Osteria La Porta in Montichiello (if open)

<b>Day 7: Saturday</b>
Arezzo: Antique Market
Lunch : Arezzo or elsewhere?
<font color="red"> Visit Cortona? Is it charming enough to make it worthwhile considering how steep?
Visit somewhere else in eastern Tuscany?
Dinner: where?</font>

<b>Day 8: Sunday</b>
Check out of Casa Frati
Drive to San Gim, explore, lunch
Drive to Lucca
Explore Lucca
Dinner in Lucca <font color="red">(Find a restaurant open on Sunday!)</font>

<b>Day 9: Monday</b>
Drive to Pisa
Quick visit, see The Piazza dei Miracoli
Drive to Volterra, explore
Lunch: Volterra
Dinner: Lucca

<b>Day 10: Tuesday</b>
<font color="red">Drive north to explore the Garfagnana region
Or ??</font>
Early night back in Lucca

<b>Day 11: Wednesday</b>
Early flight from FLR

aimeekm

Bump!

Don't tell me I've burned you guys out too with my obsessive planning! I swear my bf now hears "Wah, Wah, Wah" whenever I talk about this trip!

zoecat

A few thoughts-

Day 2- I think your day may be filled with what you have planned. Don't forget to stop along the way for a nice lunch.

Day 3- Ask Luca for a restaurant recommendation. I would think he could suggest a wonderful place.

Day 4- Spend the balance of the day exploring some of the many sights and wonders of Siena!

Day 6- Spend the rest of your time checking out some of the smaller towns in the area or returning to Pienza or Montepulciano. I would not plan too many specifics. Relax, enjoy the agriturismo. Take a drive on some of the "white" roads. Be sure to treat yourself to some of the great cheeses found in Pienza.

Day 7- Arezzo will be crowded, so if you do plan to eat there, make a reservation.
Most of the main sights and shopping in Cortona are on or just off the main street, which is flat. You don't have to endure steepness to enjoy a visit.
It gets dark early and you will have had a long day with lots of driving- eat dinner in Pienza. I recommend making reservations for Ristorante Il Rossellino. It's run by a husband and wife, it's small, and the food is fantastic. One of my favorite places to eat in my 25+ trips to Italy. Shhhhh- don't tell anyone.

Restaurant reviews you might want to look through-

http://www.slowtrav.com/Italy/restaurants/reviews.asp

Some great restaurant suggestions for the Chianti area-

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restau...ianti_jane.htm

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/restau...scany_dean.htm

aimeekm

Thanks zoecat!

I probably should have mentioned that I'm not looking to set in stone any days itinerary. For each geographical area I like to get a general to do list.

I like to mentally group things as follows:
Must do's - immovable timing
Must do's - flexible timing
Want to's

For example, market days would be category 1, visiting towns like San Gim, Montalcino would be category 2, most else would be option 3.

So my daily itineraries look really packed, but the intention isn't to do everything, if that makes sense? So after the must do's are checked off, I have a couple alternatives based on weather, mood, etc..

Thanks for the restaurant rec's & links! That is the next task I'm working on, compiling a list of restaurants for each area, both recommended, and ones to avoid.

Thanks on the tip for Arezzo reservations, I hadn't planned on making lunch reservations, but will on this day. Also, good to know there are flat parts to Cortona.

More questions:
<font color="red"> - Is Certaldo Alto worth a visit. For some reason it seems really appealing. Is it different and special enough for a visit? It doesn't seem to really fit easily into my itinerary.
- Has anyone been to mass at Saint Antimo? Is it different than a typical Catholic mass?</font>

aimeekm

Less than 2 weeks away from my trip!


I'd love any last minute input!


<b>Day 1: Sunday</b>
Land 6 pm
Dinner : Cipolla Rossa

<b>Day 2: Monday</b>
Pick up car @ FLR
Drive and explore Chianti
Want to see Greve & Panzano
Go to Coop – drinks and breakfast items
<font color="red">Which other towns (if time permits)?</font>
Check in at Palazzo Squarcialupi in Castellina (ideally between 3-5)
Dinner in Castellina

<b>Day 3: Tuesday (All Saints Day)</b>
Hills & Roads 9 – 5
<font color="red">Dinner in Castellina or somewhere else?</font>

<b>Day 4: Wednesday</b>
Siena: Market Day (yay!!)
<font color="red">Where is the most convenient parking lot for market day?</font>
Lunch in Siena
Balance of Day in Siena
If time visit Certaldo Alto
<font color="red">Dinner: where?</font>

<b>Day 5: Thursday</b>
Check out Palazzo Squarcialupi
Visit Montepulciano, lunch
Check in Casa Frati
Explore Pienza
Dinner in Pienza (Latte di Luna?) or Casa Frati

<b>Day 6: Friday</b>
Explore Val D’Orcia
Visit Montalcino
<font color="red">Winery visit, maybe?
Saint Antimo? What time is chanting? Or would mass be a better option?</font>
Dinner Osteria La Porta in Montichiello (if open)

<b>Day 7: Saturday</b>
Arezzo: Antique Market
Lunch : Arezzo or elsewhere?
<font color="red"> Visit Cortona? Visit somewhere else in eastern Tuscany? Or drive and explore?
Dinner: where?</font>

<b>Day 8: Sunday</b>
Check out of Casa Frati
<font color="red"> Mass?</font>
Drive to San Gim, explore, lunch
Drive to Lucca
Explore Lucca
Dinner in Lucca <font color="red">(Find a restaurant open on Sunday!)</font>

<b>Day 9: Monday</b>
Drive to Pisa
Quick visit, see The Piazza dei Miracoli
Drive to Volterra, explore
Lunch: Volterra
Dinner: Lucca

<b>Day 10: Tuesday</b>
<font color="red">Drive north to explore the Garfagnana region
Or ??</font>
Early night back in Lucca

<b>Day 11: Wednesday</b>
Early flight from FLR

uflecku

One week aimeekm...I know you're excited.

Days 2-4
Radda, Gaiole, Greve, Panzano - these towns are all 15-20 mins away from Castellina. Don't worry too much about which town you should have dinner in each night as a trip between them won't really be an issue (unless you want to over-indulge a bit, then of course find someplace close). You may find a place you love and want to go back to.

As for what other town to consider Day 2, between checking out, picking up your car, driving to Chianti and targeting a mid-afternoon arrival at your accomodations I think two will be enough. Also, I don't know your itinerary with H&R on Day 3 but are they covering any of those towns as well?

Day 6

If you are interested in wine then by all means visit a winery! You generally need to plan ahead as walk-ins aren't always accomodated as they are here in the US. My wife and I are winos, so we would certainly go. Schedule for Sant'Antimo can be found here http://www.antimo.it/pagine_en/00FRAME.html.

La Porta is worth the extra effort. I see no reason it wouldn't be open on a Friday. Ask Casa Frati to make a reservation for you when you check in on Thursday.

Day 7

I think Cortona is a great town. It gets crowded for sure, and there are moments when the marketing of Cortona can overshadow the actual beauty of the town. But if you wander a bit off the main drag you will find a very authentic and pleasing Tuscan town. Not sure how much wandering mom will want to do, however, after the first half of the day in Arezzo. Maybe go back to your room and take a nap (seriously, naps are great on vacation). Great meal options abound in Pienza, so even if you'e already hit up Latte di Luna you will find plenty of other spots to enjoy. Stay out of the car after all the driving to and from Arezzo. If you must leave to see somewhere else check out restaurants in San Quirico or Montefollinico, both just minutes away from Pienza.

Day 9
Get an early start and spend a couple of hours in Pisa. It gets a bad wrap in my opinion as having nothing but the Piazza dei Miracoli. Walk away from that a bit and I think it's a nice little town.

Keep in mind that the drive to Volterra is about 90 minutes and then the same back to Lucca. Maybe Volterra is enough for one day and Pisa should be saved for your return trip (it'll happen someday).

Day 10
Not much to say here. Haven't been north of Lucca but what I've read interests me. Could be worth a trip.

Overall I'd say you're in good shape. You are a much more detailed planner than I am, so I feel like there may be a few moments where I'd want to just slow down and stay where I am. But you can always do that if you feel like it.

Please write when you get back and let us all know how it went.

aimeekm

Thanks uflecku!

<i>Days 2-4
As for what other town to consider Day 2, between checking out, picking up your car, driving to Chianti and targeting a mid-afternoon arrival at your accomodations I think two will be enough. Also, I don't know your itinerary with H&R on Day 3 but are they covering any of those towns as well?</i>

I agree that on day 2, I probably won't have enough time for a third stop. Arriving on the day day light savings ends was not my greatest planning moment!

For the H&R days we will be visiting small villages, I requested off the tourist track spots.


<i>Day 6
If you are interested in wine then by all means visit a winery! You generally need to plan ahead as walk-ins aren't always accomodated as they are here in the US. My wife and I are winos, so we would certainly go. Schedule for Sant'Antimo can be found here http://www.antimo.it/pagine_en/00FRAME.html.</i>

We will be visiting 1 winery w H&R. I'll probably play this day by ear, see how much we enjoy the Chainti winery visit. (Mom did say she didn't want to do a lot of wineries, but this was shortly after we had spent a LONG day in Sonoma wine tasting, so she was a bit over it) If we do decide to do a winery, then is there one you'd recomend? Should I let Casa Frati suggest one and make an appointment for us?

You know, I think I'm dense w that Sant'Antimo site! I've looked at it a million times. Are all the services chanted? Are there services/mass and gregorian chanting, are they one in the same or different? If they're one in the same that means I should be certain to come for a service, not during the "visits to church" windows?


<i>Day 7

Stay out of the car after all the driving to and from Arezzo </i>

I know we want to hae 1 meal at Casa Frati, I'm trying to figure out if it would be better on our first or last night?

<i>Day 9
Keep in mind that the drive to Volterra is about 90 minutes and then the same back to Lucca. Maybe Volterra is enough for one day and Pisa should be saved for your return trip (it'll happen someday).</i)

Maybe we'll drive straight to Volterra and see if we have time and/or desire to stop in Pisa on the way back. If we don't feel like stopping that day we can see Pisa the next day, our last.


<i> You are a much more detailed planner than I am, so I feel like there may be a few moments where I'd want to just slow down and stay where I am. But you can always do that if you feel like it.</i>

Oh... I'm not as rigid as I'm sure this itinerary seems! I like to make the plan as detailed and packed as possible, w everything I'd really like to see included. But if we deviate that is perfectly ok! I have this reoccuring dream/nightmare that I'm on vacation somewhere amazing and I haven't done enough planning/research. My traveling companion and I are trying to figure out what we should do. Then as we're on the plane leaving we realize we didn't see the Eiffel Tower or the Colliseum etc.!

JeanneB

It all sounds lovely.

You probaly read on the website that you can't drive up to the front door of Pzo Squarcialupi at certain times of day. No problem. Just park down the hill and walk up (about a block) to the hotel. They will then let you drive up, unload, and point you to the parking at the rear of the hotel. Let your mother stay with the bags....there's quite a long stairway up from the parking area. We had good pizza at the place right across the street and an excellent dinner at La Torre. Don't forget your bathing suits for the fabulous spa!

See if you can fit Monteriggione into your plans. It was the first hill town we drove to and we were totally WOW-ed as we approached it.

Do have dinner at Latte di Luna in Pienza. Fabulous. My sister ordered some pork dish that I would never have ordered in a thousand years. But it turned out to be one of the best things we had on our entire trip! Wish I could remember what it was.

mom83

We just spent 8 days in southern Tuscany earlier this month. We attended the 12:45pm chanting at Sant'Antimo - really quite lovely. Afterwards, we drove to San Angelo in Colle for lunch at Il Leccio - delicious! I believe the next chanting was at 2:45pm, if I remember. There may have also been a later one about 6:30pm or so. As for restaurants mentioned above, we ate once (lunch) at Latte di Luna in Pienza and twice (dinner) at La Porta in Monticchiello. Both were excellent. We ate at 15-16 different restaurants in the area and all were wonderful.

JeanneB

We ate at the restaurant at the "Y" intersection just above Sant'Antimo. That's pretty much all that's there! It was a Sunday and quite festive. Lovely lunch.