Julie

Disclaimer: I am writing and posting this trip report primarily so I can have the pleasure of reliving our wonderful trip to England. Hopefully some of the warnings and recommendations will be helpful to other people planning a future trip.<BR><BR>We found March to be a wonderful time to visit England. Because it was the off-season, we only had to wait in 5 or 10 minute lines at places like Warwick Castle and Westminster Abbey. We got great rates on airfare and lodging. We had good weather, with only one extremely cold day, and two very drizzly days. Mostly we wore sweaters and coats and were fine. (I am a wimp and also wore gloves and a hat). <BR><BR>The best thing about England in March was the daffodils everywhere, from the Painswick Rococo Garden to the perimeters of Hyde Park in London. (Apparently they were early this year and are usually in late March/early April). We also enjoyed popping into historic pubs and inns and finding a roaring fire.<BR>

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Author: Julie ([email protected])<BR>Date: 03/24/2002, 07:17 am<BR><BR>Message: We arrived at Heathrow at 7:00 a.m, and waited two hours to get through customs and buy an Airbus ticket for the trip to Bloomsbury. (Note: 1) Russell Square is is completely torn up, so if you book a hotel overlooking Russell Square you will be overlooking a pile of dirt! 2) Due to this, the Airbus is not currently stopping near Russell Square, but only at Euston Station.)<BR><BR>We were very pleased with our hotel, the Bloomsbury Thistle. It had the modern amenities of a Holiday Inn, but because it was a converted older hotel, it had a great deal of charm, too. Pretty lobby and floral fabrics in the room. The rooms are small, so springing more for the Executive Room is definitely worth it.<BR><BR>After a long nap, we set off for Holborn, walking though some of the old Inns of Court where Dickens had lived as a clerk, and having dinner at a favorite pub of his, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. After dinner, we followed an alleyway to the courtyard of Dr. Johnson’s House and admired the statue of Johnson’s cat. A very relaxing and atmospheric first day in London.<BR><BR><BR>

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Author: Julie ([email protected])<BR>Date: 03/24/2002, 07:18 am<BR><BR>Message: Took the train to Gloucester and rented a car. We loved Gloucester Cathedral. The pedestrianized town center was very nice, too, where we lunched at the 15th century New Inn. On the drive to Painswick, the Cotswolds town where we were spending the night, disaster struck. Attempting to make a 3-way turn in a narrow driveway, we scraped the rental car, ultimately costing us $1000.00. (We had gotten CDW with Avis, but not their additional coverage. Found out later that if I had declined Avis’ insurance, my credit card would have covered the whole thing. I am truly sadder but wiser).<BR><BR>Cannot recommend our B&B, Hambutts Mynd, as our hosts were about 80 years old and rather cranky. We loved the Painswick Rococo Gardens, which offered splendid views of the rolling hills, and plenty of daffodils. We were a little underwhelmed by Chedworth Roman Villa, maybe because we viewed it in the pouring rain. We also visited Lower Slaughter, and an almost-empty Bourton-on-the-Water at twilight. <BR><BR>(Note: I found traveling by car highly stressful. We got lost several times, and as navigator I had to juggle between map and confusing road signs rather than enjoying the scenery.)

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Author: Julie ([email protected])<BR>Date: 03/24/2002, 07:20 am<BR><BR>Message: The train ride to Hereford near the Welsh border was beautiful, as we passed rolling hills dense with sheep. Herefordshire is in an agricultural region, known for its beef and cider, and the city itself spans the River Wye. We lunched at the modern Left Bank Village, which offers views of the river, then visited Hereford Cathedral with its famous Chained Library (where volumes are chained to the shelves as in medieval times).<BR><BR>When we got to our lodgings for the night, we were thrilled. I had found Grafton Villa Farm on the Internet http://www.a1tourism.com/uk/graftonv.html, and it more than lived up to its beautiful pictures and description. The farmhouse is beautifully decorated in a Laura Ashley/British country style. Our hostess Jenny greeted us on arrival with a tray of coffee and cake. For all its comforts, Grafton Villa is a working farm, and Bill showed us the cattle and introduced us to the working sheepdogs. In the morning we were served a fabulous breakfast that included the usual eggs, tomatoes, bacon, plus local area sausage, Ledbury cider, strawberries and clotted cream, and more. At 48 pounds a night, we will defintely be returning to Grafton Villa!<BR><BR><BR>

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Author: Julie ([email protected])<BR>Date: 03/24/2002, 07:21 am<BR><BR>Message: Our next stop was Warwick Castle,which like so many other posters, we thoroughly enjoyed. My husband walked the walls and climed the tower while I enjoyed the beautifully done Royal Weekend Party exhibit (reminiscent of Gosford Park). We spent three hours at the castle and didn’t even see everything. A must for first-time visitors to England!<BR><BR>In Oxford we took one of the 2-hour walking tours that leave from the Tourist Information Center, which was a good way to learn about the university and see some colleges. The high point was going up to the cupola of the Sheldonian Theatre to enjoy a view of the “gleaming spires.” We had lunch at the ancient Turf Pub, then spent the afternoon visiting the old Duke Humfry’s Library at the Bodleian and their exhibit on Thomas Bodley.<BR><BR>Our hotel in Oxford – the Falcon Private Hotel on Abingdon Road - was not luxurious, but very clean, comfortable, and friendly. Our best discovery in Oxford was a restaurant called Chiang Mai, which served the best Thai food we’d ever eaten (and we’re no strangers to good Thai restaurants) in a cozy half-timbered building off High Street. Reservations essential.

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Author: Julie ([email protected])<BR>Date: 03/24/2002, 07:23 am<BR><BR>Message: We were pleased to be back in London again. The first day we did “postcard London”, walking from Trafalgar Square down Whitehall past Banqueting House, 10 Downing Street, and the magnificent Houses of Parliament. We visited Westminster Abbey, which was overwhelming with all its tombs and memorials. Then we walked along the Thames to the Tate Britain, where my husband visited the Hogarths and Blakes while I viewed the Turners.<BR><BR>The next day I visited the British Museum while husband slept. I loved the old Reading Room, Great Court, and Sutton Hoo and medieval exhibits. Then my husband and I went on a Rock and Roll Tour by minibus, offered by Backroads Touring. It was very interesting not just to see Mick Jagger’s and Jimmy Page’s houses, but also to see neighborhoods in London that aren’t on the tourist map, and to hear the guide’s commentary about what each neighborhood was like. <BR><BR>We spent an hour wandering around Harrod’s, buying gifts for friends and a nice canvas bag I could use as a carry-on to hold all my souvenirs. Then we had dinner at a great little place by the hotel called Spice of India.

bonnie

Julie- What a great report, thank you. I went to England in Feb. and like you, I enjoy off-season travel. Truly sorry to hear about your car problem. It reinforces my view that renting a car is just too stressful for my taste. I am curious, will you rent a car next time and try again, or take public transportation? Also Villa Grafton sounds lovely, were you able to get there via train? And thank you for the description of Warwick Castle, even though I've been to England several time, I've never visited and next time I will!

Julie

Thanks, Bonnie! My husband is willing to drive again, but I don't know if I'm willing to be in the navigator's seat. We ended up squabbling about directions instead of enjoying the scenery. I would like to just go by train next time, and maybe look into hiring a driver if we want to do some out-of-the-way spots.<BR><BR>Grafton Villa Farm is just outside Hereford. Hereford is easily accessible by train (3 hours from London, and close to the Cotswolds, Oxford, etc.) From the town center we could get there by bus, taxi (7 pounds one way), or once we got a lift from our hostess.<BR><BR>Happy travels,<BR>Julie