England Garden Report Part 1

Old May 29th, 2002, 07:43 AM
  #1  
Carrie
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England Garden Report Part 1

I’m just back from a week filled with gardens, gardens, and gardens! of London and Sussex/Kent, not to mention the (justly) world-famous Chelsea Flower Show. Thank you to all who supplied answers to my questions, particularly the “how do I drive by myself on the wrong side of the road without a navigator and someone to tell me ‘keep left!’?”

For those interested, here is my trip report. I suspect that this report will be only interesting to passionate gardeners, though I urge all of you (whether gardeners or not) to be sure and visit some of England’s (and the world’s!) finest gardens! Sorry for its length -- I’ll parse it into different emails.

DAY ONE (Sunday May 20, 2002)
Arrive at Heathrow one hour early due to prevailing tail wind from Boston Logan -- yippee! Couldn’t get out of that plane fast enough -- how can American Airlines cram that many people into that many small seats? By the time I exit customs, etc., it is the appointed time of my arrival, but alas, my driver (hired by my hotel with assurances that he will be there precisely at 8:45 p.m.; cost = 45 pounds) is nowhere to be found. I seriously consider going up to a driver who’s holding up a sign with my first name (alas, not my last), but don’t want to give us Americans a reputation for dishonesty!

Instead, a trip to the information desk, a struggle to figure out the phone system (phones do not give change, even when you have managed NOT to complete a call because of your own ineptness), and a call to the hotel, and by the time I turn around, there is my driver, all contrite-looking.

I carefully observe the driver as he expertly steers the car through round-abouts (ah, one travels clockwise!), stays to the left, and generally obeys all posted speed limits. Why, I ask? (No self-respecting cab driver in Boston would!!!) It’s those nasty speed cameras that are lurking behind trees, vines, etc. though this may be changing: a decision reported by the Ministry of Transportation during my stay states that only those cameras in accident or speed-prone areas will be remaining, with fair warning to be given of their location, whilst the others will be removed. I’m surprised to find out from the driver too that Britain does not use the metric system (at least for travel); all signs posted are for miles per hour.

An experience on the way to the hotel leaves us both giving thanks to the One above, and me thankful that I will not be driving in London. As we (and a huge lorry next to us) pulls away from an interesection (that has flashed red/yellow, and then green -- great for drivers wondering when the light will turn!), a car decides to go through the cross-intersection red-light, and appears directly in front of us, mere inches from where we have started to travel. Only by the grace of God, and the quick braking action of the driver and the lorry, is this stupid, idiotic @#$! imbecile spared his life. My heart races; the driver curses; we all thank God for what might have happened, but didn’t. The driver reports that this happens often in London -- this was his second one that day!

 
Old May 29th, 2002, 07:47 AM
  #2  
elaine
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Carrie
You might want to repost your other
"chapters" right here, under the one heading, so it will all stay together.
Makes it easier for people to get to the information later.
Just "post your reply" to yourself, if you want to.
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 07:52 AM
  #3  
Carrie
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Part 2 of Report: (thank you Elaine for the suggestion!)

After winding our way through the streets of London (again, I’m thankful that I’m not driving!) and through “mini-roundabouts” (sized about as big as a breakfast table! and marked directly on the pavement in blue and white paint), we arrive safely (and me a bit worse for the wear with my still-racing heart) at Number Sixteen Hotel in the South Kensington section of London.

After a bit of ineptitude on the part of the front desk (blocking my credit card for $1,000, when the total of my stay will only be approximately 300 pounds -- just “in case” I spend hundreds of dollars in the honor system bar -- very cute (the bar, not my potential drinking…)), but which thankfully is cleared up by the very friendly, apologizing staff, I am shown to my teeny-tiny room on the 3rd floor. Tiny, but charming and efficient -- one single bed, a telly on top of a mini-fridge, a sink, and a tiny closet; the loo and shower are located across the hall. I very much like my room, especially since the hotel is located in a safe, convenient location and is only costing me 99 pounds per night, with a continental breakfast to boot! Hotel website is: www.numbersixteenhotel.co.uk

DAY TWO (Monday, May 21, 2002)

So many gardens to visit, so little time!!! What to do and what to see??? I ponder this question as I nibble on my cereal, fresh croissant, toast, jam, and coffee breakfast served in the lovely hotel conservatory located adjacent to the lovely outdoor garden. Guests may take their breakfasts in either of these places, or in their room or the honor bar room -- temptation might start early! A decision is reached, and I’m off for a walk across town, in the general direction of Waterloo Station (a very long walk, but which takes me by several interesting places). I see Harrods (conveniently, there is an American Express office located directly across the street, where I exchange some of my traveler’s checks), Hyde Park Corner, and then Buckingham Palace. The Queen invites me in for tea, but I politely decline -- I have gardens to visit!

Green Park and St. James Park are located adjacent to Buckingham Palace -- both are lovely places to stroll to admire the centuries’ old plane trees. I’m using as my guide, “Walking London’s Parks and Gardens” by Geoffrey Young, published by Passport Books, 1998 -- highly recommended! The book outlines routes through London’s parks and gardens. It takes you by all of the highlights, with interesting commentary (both historical and gardening). St. James Park is particularly wonderful -- beautifully planted and maintained. I am captivated by the yellows/oranges/reds of all of the azaleas in full flower, the wide herbaceous borders (again in spectacular bloom), the long view across the lake, the pelicans! Sadly, everything save one beautiful yellow shrub -- laburnam x watereri “Vossii” -- is not identified with labels. Several huge trees of note include a fig and several beeches, as well as those lovely plane trees. Public toilets available (I love this City! They think of everything!)
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 07:54 AM
  #4  
Carrie
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Part 3 of Report

I continue my walk on the other end of the park, past Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Instead of walking across the Thames to Waterloo Station (destination: Hampton Court Palace), I decide to hop on the subway at Westminster Station for the shot hop to Waterloo (trying to preserve my feet!) I ask at the friendly information desk about an all-day pass that will take me not only to Waterloo, but also to Hampton Court and back, and the helpful clerk directs me to one costly approximately 7 pounds, if memory serves me correctly. I discover that this station even has a public toilet, this one with pink toilet paper (can you imagine this in Park Street in Boston?) Over to Waterloo, which I thought was a delight -- very Victorian architecture and trains, subways (I mean tube), food stations everywhere, and helpful attendants to point you in the correct direction of your train. I board the overland train to Hampton Court (no one ever bothers to check my ticket -- both coming or going) for the 30 minute ride. Hampton Court is a short five-minute walk over the Thames River from the station.

Entrance to the gardens is free at Hampton Court Palace (as was the gift shop, though I left a few pounds lighter there!). There is a fee to enter the Palace -- that’s something I’ll do on another trip. Hampton is drop-dead gorgeous. Most plants are labeled (except of course for a couple of the ones that I’ve never seen before!) Long, long vistas, immaculately kept, large rose garden, walled gardens, spectacular herbaceous borders, the oldest known grapevine in the world, and two special planted topiaries in honor of the Queen’s upcoming Jubilee. Workers are putting the final touches on these two topiaries in the shape of a crown; each are planted with thousands of small plants in all forms and colors. I again follow the recommended route in the Geoffrey Young book -- buy this book if you will be visiting the London gardens!!! I benefited from it enormously. I am so enraptured by Hampton Court that I stay for four hours!!!!

My original plan was to go directly from Hampton Court to Kew Gardens; although this is technically possible via overland trains and/or buses, there is no real direct route. I note for future reference that adjacent to Hampton Court station, there is a small business that advertises that one can hire a car and driver who will whisk you over to Kew for about 25 pounds or so. Also, I’ve spent so much time at Hampton, that I’ve left not enough time for Kew.

So, instead, I’m back to Waterloo, where this time I do walk back toward the Thames, and see the London Eye (very close to Waterloo), and a lovely view of Big Ben, Parliament, etc. from the opposite side of the river. I head over to Westminster Abbey, with the notion of attending the 5:00 evensong. Unfortunately, I arrive at 5:45, and evensong has been and gone -- definitely get there by 5:00. The person guarding the door says that it is perhaps over by 5:30; no admittance to anyone now!

 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:04 AM
  #5  
Carrie
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Part 4 of Report:

Rain starts falling (of course! this is England! remember to pack your umbrellas!) and so I decide to find an internet café to tell my husband and the kids that I’m ok (actually doing great, but don’t want to make them feel unwanted!). There’s at least one big chain -- called Easyeverything café (or perhaps Easyinternet café -- I couldn’t figure out which) -- that’s located very near to several of the big tube stations, including Victoria and Kensington. They’re easy to identify by their orange signs. One pound buys you a ticket and a password and about 22 minutes of internet time. You can “top off” and buy additional time. Hundreds of terminals, no bathrooms, and Nescafe (????) coffee. I did find that their computers were very slow (at first I blamed it on my AOL connection); later in the trip, I found a different internet café near South Kensington station that was about 1 or 2 pounds for 40 minutes, with a very fast connection. Each time I visited easyeverthing, same thing happened -- struggle to find a free terminal (loads of people), and a slow connection. One advantage, however: they’re open all night.

Not realizing the time (nah, that never happens to anyone else online, does it!), at 7:00, I realized that I only had 30 minutes to make the showing of Les Miserables at the Palace Theatre. I had purchased tickets (online, of course, and based on the hints found on this board) about 2 weeks earlier. I had first visited: www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk. Not only does it list all theatres, performances, times, etc., as well as seating plans, but you can also now purchase tickets through them (purchases are actually done through www.ticketweb.co.uk). I found a single ticket to Les Mis for 40 pounds (face value) plus an additional L3.60 charge. It was located in the “stalls” section -- i.e., what us Americans refer to as orchestra seats. Learned from the seating chart that it was second row, center stage! I luckily managed to get a cab (one of those neat, old black ones! -- you could fit a refrigerator in back) even though it was raining (try doing that in NYC), and the cabbie was one of the first of many British to ask me if I had ever heard of the Beach Boy song about Massachusetts, after learning that’s where I was from! I loved how the cabbie didn’t break any speed limits (said he can’t bc of the cameras), but instead drove on a sidewalk to get me to the theatre on time! Ticket was waiting for me at the box office as promised, even though I got there with only 2 minutes to spare! Show was great, one of my favorites (though I thought the one I saw in Boston was better…..!)

Dinner was much later that night on my bed with a sandwich purchased at the all-night grocer located on Brompton Street right across from the hotel. Love these sandwiches! Lots of variety; all prepackaged, and only cost around 1.99 pounds or so! That, plus a few beers and some cheese and crackers, made for a lovely night in the company of the telly! I think British telly is a hoot. Do watch some when you’re there. Popular shows are Eurovision (people from different countries compete in song) and the new season of Big Brother.
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:06 AM
  #6  
janis
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Love your enthusiasm. Looking forward to you reports about Chelsea and Kent. Did you get to the Chelsea Physic Garden?

One side note: You may think American was crowded but on EVERY other airline the coach seats are even more tightly packed. AA has extended the leg room on all of its planes by 3 to 4 inches. Just imagine that seat in front of you 4 inches closer!?
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:15 AM
  #7  
MHS
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More! More! More!
Your report is giving me my first enthusiasm for beginning to plan this years' European trip .... How far in advance did you buy your Chelsea Flower Show tickets?

Please do contine.
Thanks
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:20 AM
  #8  
Carrie
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Part 5 of Report:

DAY THREE (Wednesday, May 22, 2002)

Today was my day at the Chelsea Flower Show! I had, about one and 1/2 months ago, purchased a ticket online to the show (and joined the Royal Horticultural Society in order to take advantage of its member only days). All information, including purchasing info, is available at www.rhs.org.uk

My ticket arrived within two weeks in the mail, along with a “Welcome to the RHS” packet, and the first of RHS’ very excellent monthly magazine.

Dates for the 2003 show will be May 20 to May 23rd. First two days are reserved for RHS members. Be forewarned: tickets sell out quickly; when I went to purchase my ticket, I had hoped to purchase a Tuesday ticket (first-day), but one and 1/2 months prior to the show, they were already sold out; luckily, I was able to still get 2nd day tickets. I believe that info re: purchasing for the 2003 show will be available online around February 2003. RHS members can purchase more than one ticket, so bring a friend.

So, on Wednesday, I was off joining the hordes streaming toward the Chelsea section of London (nearest tube station = Sloane Square). The Flower Show is held on the grounds of the Royal Hospital -- approximately 22 acres in all! It was a short (maybe 7 to 10 blocks) stroll from my hotel.

Ohmygoodness! Ohmygoodness! I have been to many, many flower shows in the U.S., including what some consider our “best” -- Boston, Philly, Detroit. Ha! Ha! They pale in comparison to Chelsea. They resemble Chelsea like a Hyundai resembles a Lamborghini. If you love gardens, you absolutely must attend Chelsea. It is unlike anything I have seen before. Imagine 22 (outdoors) acres devoted to the world’s finest garden designers and growers. Designers compete in several different categories: among the categories this year were: 1. show gardens (the largest, often sponsored by huge companies -- i.e., read $$$). Prince Charles designed one of the show gardens -- all I can say is that he IS odd….couldn’t figure out why he inserted that ridiculous-looking and badly painted underground structure (cave? yurt?) in the middle of his garden. 2. Courtyard gardens. Very special; lots of small details -- loved the child’s view garden, which won a People’s favorite award from the BBC. 3. Chic Gardens. Very cool, ultra-modern. Some will hate them. I loved them! Lots of fresh, new ideas. Many used very ordinary (and inexpensive) materials to create cool effects -- never thought about using Copper Spray Paint to achieve a costly look! and 4. City Gardens.

Downside to Chelsea is the crowds. It’s very hard to get up close to the gardens bc of the crowds, unless you’re very, very patient, and are a bit aggressive at times to push your way forward. Not handicapped accessible at all. The BBC films each day at Chelsea, and their cameramen push people out of the way, causing even more chaos. (Watch their shows every night back at the hotel at 8:00 during the week of Chelsea.) Also, there’s no place really to sit down and relax (I hate to admit this, but I used the loo -- nothing else available!)
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:23 AM
  #9  
Carrie
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Part 6 of Report:

I was there from 10:30 a.m. until 8:00 p.m. (when it closes). Next time, I will be there right when it opens at 8:00 a.m. I did not see everything I wanted to, but then again, I was one of those patient types who waited to see everything, plus I was busy taking numerous photos. At the very end, I walked into one of the two huge marquees -- basically tents. Again, my mouth dropped open and landed on top of my (sore) feet! Whereas in Boston or Philly, the marketplace is an opportunity for “garden-related” vendors to sell stuff, the marquees in Chelsea are really just another flower show. Picture a columbine grower with fifty vases of fifty different types of aquilegia -- maybe containing 300 stems each! Or David Austin’s Roses taking up a huge square with exquisitely grown roses on trellises. Or a hundred different varieties of clematis. Or hundreds of different-colored tomatoes arranged in a breathtaking pattern. I could go on and on. No plants for sale, but often inexpensive seeds or catalogues. I wish I could have gone back the next day to explore these marquees -- the amount of money, time, and effort that goes into each of these displays is staggering. These displays are also judged. I would have given them all gold!!!

There are market vendors at Chelsea too. Again, I heartily applaud the British. I’m often disappointed in the market areas of our US flower shows -- how many times do the vendors selling “dried herbs in sour cream” -- “here have a cracker and a free taste” outnumber the vendors with legitimate garden-related products? So many US flower show market areas are tacky, tacky, tacky. Do I really want to go to a flower show and buy alumimum siding for my house? New windows? At Chelsea, vendors ranged from various gardening magazines giving away free copies and hawking subscriptions, to the watercolorists and garden note card types, to garden tools, to garden books, to antique and antique-looking statuary. I fervently wished that I were rich and could hire a cargo ship back to the States.

As much as the British complain about Chelsea (see, for example, the message board on the BBC website: www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/events/chelsea/), I think that it was one of the most exciting events of my gardening life. I want to go back. Tips: 1. wear comfortable shoes; 2. bring water, lunch, and snacks; 3. bring one of those small portable, collapsing chairs; 4. see the large show garden exhibits either at 8:00 a.m. or at 7:00 p.m. when the crowds are less; 5. bring lots of $ and leave with lots of seeds, catalogues, and dreams!

I had hoped to go on one of the London Walks Pub tours (www.london.walks.com), but my exhausted feet said no way! Instead, it was back to the Victoria internet café. Much to my surprise, much later that night, I learned: 1. the tube closes at 11:00 p.m. 2. many London buses run all night -- the “Night Bus”. 3. Signs at Victoria Bus Station are a bit unclear -- you have to read many signs to figure out what bus; when; where it picks up -- not all buses stop at Victoria, and those that do, stop at a designated location that can be located anywhere within 3 blocks radius of the main Victoria bus station. 4. If you ask five people for help, they will give you five different answers on how to get back to South Kensington! 5. Although it was 1:00 a.m., I never felt unsafe -- enough people about all waiting for various buses, though I would have hesitated to go to a bus stop located around the (dark) corner. Once on the correct bus (transfer at Trafalgar Square), I made certain to sit near the driver. Dinner again from my all night grocer!
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:38 AM
  #10  
SenoraSolidad
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This is a delight...! keep posting please!
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 09:45 AM
  #11  
Linda
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Well you report is interesting but I pesonally do not think your hotel was any bargain, 99 pounds a night for a tiny room with bathroom across the hall sounds very high. (Even if they did throw in breakfast) I think you could have done better price wise for sure.
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 10:01 AM
  #12  
Carrie
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Part 7 of Report:

DAY FOUR (Thursday, May 23, 2002)

Again, so many decisions at the breakfast table! Today was my last day in London, and I still wanted to see: 1. Kew Gardens; 2. Chelsea Physic Garden; 3. Garden of Museum History; 4. Kensington Gardens; 5. Kensington Roof Gardens; 6. Hyde Park; and 7. A trip back to St. James Park to retake my first roll of film, which had ended up destroyed (don’t ask…., I’m pretty incompetent…!)

My original plan was to pick up my hired car (rented to us Americans) from Gatwick Airport at 2:00 p.m., the time I had told them I would be there. This was not to be, which as I’ll explain later, was quite fortuitous!

Here was my thought pattern, which might be helpful for those of you who are just as insane as me and want to see as many gardens as possible. Kew is a 30 minute tube trip away (not including transfers); not any way near or convenient to Gatwick, besides, I was going to leave my luggage at the hotel, so would have to come back there. Cheslea Physic Garden is a now LONG walk away (vs. yesterday’s short 7 to 10 blocks) bc my feet are very tired, and there is no tube stop near by. Garden of Museum History -- not near a tube stop, but maybe could combine with Chesea Physic Garden and walk a lot. That left 4, 5, 6, and 7 -- all adjacent to each other, and indeed, I could take the tube to each quite easily.

First, it was on the tube two stops to St. James’ Park (purchased a whole day ticket -- only a couple of pounds -- but was told couldn’t buy a ticket that would also encompass my trip to Gatwick later), where the recent rain and warm weather had made everything bloom every brighter and more! The roses, which had been hardly buds two days earlier, were now in full, glorious bloom. Of course, at one point it started to pour, but that didn’t deter me, although it did stop three nuns wearing dark black habits, who waited under a huge copper beech tree -- what a lovely photo that made! At the top of the park, near Buckingham Palace, I managed to run into the infamous changing of the guards -- I don’t know if it’s so worthless to see, as others have said on this site. Lots of pomp, horse riders, and a band. Hint: at the end, the band travels down the Mall, so photo opportunities there.

 
Old May 29th, 2002, 10:25 AM
  #13  
Carrie
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Part 8 of Report:

Then it was back to the hotel to check out and to ask them to hold my luggage. Yes, I agree with the poster who said that I could have found something cheaper, but nevertheless, I liked this hotel very much and would stay there again, next time with my husband -- the larger rooms look lovely and romantic.

I took the South Kensington tube one stop to Knightsbridge (next to Harrods and across the street from my American Express office to get more $$), and wandered over to Harrods once again, bc -- again love those British! a family of four had “won” the opportunity to LIVE for a WEEK in the front windows of Harrods, for all of the world to see! Celebrities stop by daily, and I observed the first winner of the Big Brother show (don’t know his name, but apparently he’s very famous to the Brits, esp the ladies, bc he is rather handsome and buff!) helping the family make a table. I won his very buff calendar, personally signed by Mr. Famous Person from the Harrods PR person.

Next had a very interesting talk with the driver of the Harrods delivery truck -- a 1900 relic sitting on the street. They still deliver to various members of the Royalty and other “very special people”. He said that the Queen now refuses to order from Harrods bc Fergie still does too! He said that he loved Princess Di -- she ordered a lot from Harrods and was always very pleasant and friendly to him.

Then one more tube stop to Hyde Park Corner. At this point, the sun was shining in all of its glory, no humidity, beautiful blue sky, and I was in heaven. Hyde Park is a stunning example of a public park. I am in awe of what you British do with your public money. Following the plan laid out in the Geoffrey Young book, I saw: an incredible rose and perennial garden (90% labeled) that went on for approximately 1/4 mile, complete with many trellises; lovely fountains; huge old trees; bridges over the Serpentine Lake (32 acres in size); a hauntingly beautiful, subdued, and understated Holocaust Garden; a small restaurant at the head of the Lake; acres and acres of people playing football in the meadow; a Victorian bandshell; convenient public toilets (all with pretty landscaping around them, I might add). It was enchanting. All 350 acres of this lovely park, by the way, is free and open to everyone.
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 10:31 AM
  #14  
Carrie
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Part 9 of Report:

At the end of Hyde Park is Kensington Gardens, adjacent to Kensington Palace, home of Princess Di (sigh). I was at the far end of the Garden, and thus walked toward the Palace. Again, lovely! Particularly enchanting were “The Flower Walk”, which according to Young’s book is 500-yards long and “one of London’s best and most carefully planned flower walks.” Not so many herbaceous perennials, but oh those shrubs and trees! Too bad that they were unlabeled, though the guide book claimed that they should be. All manner of variegated hollies, dogwoods, azaleas, rhodies, and plenty of things that I couldn’t identify with my Zone 5 background -- talk about different textures and colors! As the sun was getting low in the sky, it made for a very intimate-feeling walk along a tunnel. The Albert Memorial bounds this walk as well -- it is quite an imposing, gold-plated and jewel encrusted building.

Other highlights of Kensington Gardens are the statue of Peter Pan, and of course, the Palace itself with the famous gate where people laid flowers in tribute to Diana. Evidently, the powers-that-be do not allow such tributes anymore, bc all that was there during my visit was a tiny, handmade card tied to the gate with a ribbon. Adjacent to the Palace is the hidden and charming Sunken Garden, which though you can’t enter it, you can view through “windows” cut into the pleached lime trees.

I had hoped to be able to have time to walk over to the Kensington Roof Gardens, but unfortunately it would have been closed by the time I arrived there. (Unfortunately, although I was on “vacation”, I had some work phone calls, etc. to make back home which took far too many chunks of time out of my day!!!) For those interested, they are located very near to the High Street Kensington tube stop on Kensington High Street, W8. Entrance is at the bottom of Derry Street, W8, on the right (west) side, according to my book. Entrance is free, and it is open between 9:00 and 18:00 hours.

And, then it was back to the hotel to pick up my luggage. Two short tube stops away from the hotel is Victoria Station, which has an express train (11 pounds, I think) to Gatwick Airport to pick up my car. I think that there is a train that leaves approximately every 30 minutes or so. I chose Gatwick as the location to pick up my car, rather than Heathrow (which is where I flew in and out of) bc it is much more closer to Kent and Sussex. No extra charge for the car for doing this, by the way. (Pick up at Gatwick, drop off at Heathrow.)
 
Old May 29th, 2002, 12:35 PM
  #15  
ukexpat
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Thanks for your report Carrie. I am an American Expat living in Manchester. I make it to London about 3 times a month with the Hubby. I absolutely loved Chelsea. Words could not express (but you did a good job). I too went home and watched the BBC coverage. I even taped the last two nights, so I could re-live the experience later. I thought the Prince Charles Garden was strange, but the Brits on BBC loved it. I think its an American thing. I loved the garden where they had stenciled the flowers onto the pavers. My favorite was the modern garden right by the sloan square entrance. No, I think my favorite was the garden with the all the white roses, and the narrow water feature that went through the middle, and the large vase at the end. So many gardens, so little time. ANyway, your trip report will help me on my next trip to London. I think I'm going in a few weeks. I will definitely get to Chelsea again, but next year it will take more than a train ride from Manchester, since I'll be back in the states.
 
Old May 30th, 2002, 05:26 AM
  #16  
Carrie
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Part 10 of Report:

I arrive at Gatwick at 11:00 p.m. and the place is nearly deserted. Signage to the car rental area is practically nonexistent and/or incoherent; when you exit the main terminal (?) building (or at least the terminal into which the rail takes you) into the outdoor air, turn right and follow the building around to the right, and you will come across the car rental places. If you turn to the left from the main terminal exit, you will succeed only in arriving at the “off-airport” car rental bus stop.

I had made my car reservation through Autoeurope (www.autoeurope.com), as many had suggested on this board. Afraid to take to the narrow lanes in anything smaller, I pre-ordered an intermediate car (“V.W. Bora or similar”) and specified automatic transmission, no air conditioning. Total cost to be $195.12 US, including the VAT. As I approach the Europcar clerk and give her my name, she looks at me sadly and starts shaking her head. “You were supposed to be at 2:00 p.m. I’m afraid we have no automatic transmissions left.”

I entertain visions of looking at the gardens of Gatwick, or perhaps even planting my own if I am destined to remain here forever. Instead, I just apologize profusely, “I am so sorry. I should have called.” More clucking of her tongue, pecks on the computer terminal, a quick phone call, and she looks up with a devious smile.

“Well, I do have only one automatic available, but I am afraid that it will cost you 5 pounds more per day.”

My mind races -- let’s see, that works out to about $8 more per day, for a total of $24, give or take -- do I go with the upgrade? insist on maintaining the original price, even though I am nearly 12 hours late in arriving? try out one of those scary manuals with stick shift on the left?

I go with the upgrade. As I gather up the key and paperwork, I casually ask, “What kind of car will I be driving?” I think, “What’s slightly larger than a VW Bora? Surely not the VW Bug?” (though that might be fun to drive).

With a smile, she replies, “A Mercedes.”
 
Old May 30th, 2002, 05:42 AM
  #17  
Simone
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Ignore Linda's comment about the cost of your hotel at 99#. I've been to Chelsea three times and know how hard it is to book a room during the show. By the way, I've paid more and less than you for a small single room. One 'less' was such a dive I literally wheeled my small suitcase down the street at 7 am looking for better accommodations for the remaining nights. The only thing that counts is whether you are happy with the accommodations.
 
Old May 30th, 2002, 06:08 AM
  #18  
kavey
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Carrie, how lovely...
I really enjoyed reading your report.

Whilst Linda is correct that it's possible to find accommodationf or less than you paid, I have to agree with your choice. The BB you chose has received excellent write ups and I visited the website and it does look beautiful. A lot more characterful than some of the chain hotels which might come in at, say £70 a night.

I loved reading about your garden visits.

This Monday was my husband's birthday and we took the day off to be tourists in London.

We wanted to take some photos of people for a photo project and headed to Buck Palace. We walked through St James Park on the way and it is lovely. We chatted a long while with an elderly man called Eddie who was feeding the squirrels. He had come in nearly every day for years. The squirrels were so familiar with him that they'd sit on his cap on his head and eat nuts from his hand. He called ALL squirrels Suzy, "male, female or anything in between!" as he said.

We enjoyed the pomp of the changing of the guards, mainly to people watch more than to look at the guards themselves.

We also visited the Natural History Museum, hadnt been since childhood and had forgotten the building itself. I think this must be the most spectacular building in London. For me anyway.

Anyway, Carrie. Thanks for sharing.

Kavey
 
Old May 30th, 2002, 06:27 AM
  #19  
Carrie
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Part 11 of Report:

After nearly an hour of trying to figure out all of the who-dangs and gadgets and buttons of my E-240EL, I finally pull out of the airport parking lot. (I love how the man -- who was waiting behind me in line at the car rental counter -- gives me a dirty look as he drives away first in his little tiny stick-shift car. Ha! Jealous!) Only one exit out of the parking lot directly onto the motorway -- very convenient and easy (unlike Heathrow!!).

I’m using Frommer’s Road Atlas Britain, July 1999, as my guide (spiral bound; approximately $20 at Borders). It appears to depict EVERY single road in England, as well as Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, although there are no street names listed for the smallest roads. If you are good at directions and map interpretation (i.e., take the first left out of the city center), then I heartily recommend this map book. I found it invaluable.

My destination is King John’s Lodge in Ticehurst, near to Etchingham, in Sussex. I have found this garden bed and breakfast in a guide called, naturally, “Bed and Breakfast for Garden Lovers.” You may order this little pamphlet through www.bbgl.co.uk -- the web site also has a partial listing of member B&Bs. Send five international reply-paid coupons (get these at your local post office -- about 80 cents each) to the address listed. Alternatively, I saw this pamplet for sale at garden centers in England for around 50 pence or so. There is an excellent links page on the website to all things gardening in the United Kingdom.
 
Old May 30th, 2002, 06:34 AM
  #20  
Carrie
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Part 12 of Report:

Driving on the left does require some getting used to. My mantra, gKeep left, keep left.h I pull over frequently at bus stops and driveways to let faster cars behind me pass. My biggest fear is that I will hit oncoming cars passing to my right; as a result, I overcompensate and tend to brush by the hedges lining the roads on the left. My Mercedes (!!! I still smile when I think of it!!!) has a warning device that beeps at me whenever I get too close to something on the right. It goes off only about four or five times in three days; not bad, I think, although it tends to sound AFTER Ifve already run over the curb or brushed the hedge. Luckily, it is late at night and there are few cars on the road.

Ifve written each road Ifll be taking on a yellow gstickyh, and peel off each one as I approach it, so that I know what road to look for next. My advice: be alert and read EVERY single sign. Roads are typically announced only once, and the signs usually are located practically on top of the intersection. Intersections are typically roundabouts, with several spoke choices. Write on your sticky both the road name (i.e., left or south onto the B2099), as well as the name of the first town that will be appearing on that road. (Sometimes, if a large town is down that same road, that name will appear as well, or by itself.)

The one sign at an intersection/roundabout will have each of the choices marked something like: ©A22 Nutley ªA275 Danehill. You wonft get another chance to think about your choices, or what direction to take, because by the time you have seen the sign and read it (much less absorbed what it says) you are in the roundabout. Approach all roundabouts slowly in order to read the signs and figure out which way to go. Remember to turn left (clockwise) into the roundabout and hug the outside (left) edge.

Once youfve made your choice, there are no signs on the road on which youfve ended up that will either confirm or deny that you are on the correct road. If in doubt, find the nearest alley, driveway, etc. to pull over and study your map. Donft just blindly go on down the road, because it might be many miles before you realize your mistake.

If you are like me and have trouble memorizing numbers, all of those gAhs and gBhs and 2044, 24, and 2043s and such will start to blur together. I had trouble remembering what road I was on, and so the stickies definitely greatly helped.
 

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