Engagements Flashbacks and Bloopers...all in the City of Light!
 

Okay second time's the charm. I'm gonna try to keep this short and sweet, or at least slow and steady, because the last time I did one of these Paris trip reports I yap yap yapped and didn't finish.

My boyfriend and I went to Paris in April for two weeks and it was fantastico. Paris is our happy joy joy place so naturally for us, it's ALWAYS fantastico! We split our time between the 10th and the 6th, first time in both arrondissements, and it worked out well even when some homeless guy in the 10th walked up to me while I sat in a cafe, unzipped his pants and wiggled his limp penis 12 inches too close to my face. Not very glamorous.

A few months later while in our home city, my boyfriend got down on one knee and proposed in the most surprising and loving way so ta da! We're engaged now! :)

As part of our engagement celebration, and some work stuff, there's always work stuff, we found ourselves back in Paris for another two weeks in the fall! Can you imagine? Two times in Paris in the same year?! How amazing is that?

One of our favorite things to do in any city is walk all over and bee line to some never visited museums such as the Zadkine, Cognacq-Jay and fittingly for the occasion, the Musée de la Vie Romantique. And then there's the all important food. I've been reading and researching and thankfully had the good sense to trust the exceptional tastes of fellow Fodorites so dining at Marco Polo and Verjus were a success... thank you denisea, TPAYT and Judy for that.

Since this was our 4th time there we now have sentimental spots we must return to over and over again so I'll include those as the trip report gets going. I miss Paris so much and writing this is the second best thing to being there so I hope you'll join me in reliving our...and hopefully yours too... Paris experiences.

Congratulations!! Can't wait to read about your trip. I'll be back in Paris for 2 weeks in December so I'm very interested in current information re exhibits, etc.

i'm still struggling with what is 12" too close?? not nice

Bilbo, I laughed at that too. What is the appropriate distance??

And Tess, you get extra credit in my world for knowing Paris is the 'City of Light' - not the 'City of Lights!'

Did you get another haircut? I kept thinking about you when there and almost did last month but chickened out. Ko by

Congratulations on your engagement :)

I haven't been to Paris, so I really enjoy reading TR's.

Thanks for the congrats wishes guys! I know we will need Fodor's guidance if we do a small destination wedding but for sure the honeymoon!

Judy, Paris in winter is one of my dreams and we have yet to see all the Christmas decor. Fragonard at the Musée du Luxembourg was one I enjoyed and should still be there during your visit. Also met a woman at the laundromat who gushed about the exhibits at the Grand Palais...sorry I didn't go to that one and don't remember the particulars.

bilboburgler, I don't know who's more perverted because unlike him I took a picture.

nyse, I feel the same way when I read Lights! lol

flpab, I'm so touched you thought of me in Paris and yes I did!!! Not only did I get A haircut, I got TWO haircuts...spring and fall. My hair is so short now.

Thank you Adelaidean. Are you saving the BEST for last??? ;)

Departure Day

Nice and calm. Two trips ago, last fall, I worked myself up with so much excitement I got sick the first week there, not fun. This time I was determined to keep it cool even getting a soothing massage the day before. Nice and calm all the way to the airport.

We flew Norwegian Premium which has become my favorite airline after 7 one way flights all Premium to and from Europe... relatively inexpensive, very comfortable and no surprises. Layover in London Gatwick and hung out at the No.1 Lounge watching planes land over the huge bay windows. Let's get the champagne going!!

Next thing you know we're in CDG. We stayed in an apartment in the Latin Quarter recommended by the host I kept in touch with from our first time in Paris. It belonged to her daughter. She has 2 kids. Son's apartment is in the 7th, fabulous and spacious... 1 bedroom with amazing views of the Eiffel Tower could not have asked for a better first time in Paris. That was not available because he's living in it now but daughter is away so her apt was.

Cabbed to the apt, driver was so fast he almost hit someone. Took the unusually large elevator up to the 5th floor and OMG the place was soooo small! The bed was very comfy though, bathroom has nice yellow marbling everywhere and strong standing shower but no curtain ...floor splashing here we go, 1 small desk for working as this is business and pleasure after all, enough clothes hangers for Codes' dress shirts, suits and my 3 dresses, where do we even lay our carry-ons??, bright lighting pouring in from the floor to ceiling windows that overlooked a small terrace with 1 chair and beautiful views. It is not Le Meurice but for $130/night it was perfect. We're in Paris!!

First order of business...food. We strolled around the neighborhood then headed to Le Comptoir du Relais in the 6th. We've rented a studio right in this area in the spring and ate here twice; the menu was all in French so I closed my eyes, ran my finger down the items and picked randomly. I want those beef cheeks!

BUT ... after turning a corner we saw Marco Polo still open and immediately Italian sounded better so we parked ourselves outside overlooking part of the Triangle. Will I do a beso beso with Renato again? No luck but our server from Bangladesh was just as gracious and very patient listening to butchered French even rolling over the heat lamp.

Wow so sleepy from jet lag this late lunch will really do it. I had the caprese to start... huge heirloom tomatoes and Codes the beef carpaccio. Both very good. The bottle of rosé from Aix was refreshing. Brrr it's cold today. Two pieces of thin breadsticks sealed in a bag and some hard bread to accompany. For main I had the pappardelle with mushrooms, prosciutto and creme fraiche, delish but Codes' gnocchi in gorgonzola sauce was divine. He came for that dish! Drizzled with fresh parmesan the meal sure hit the spot. 74 euros

Next stop was to get our phones working. I'm literally passing out now I should've had an espresso. I don't remember being this sleepy from jet lag ever it's like I'm drugged or something could barely keep my eyes open talking to Monsieur Orange. Please hurry I must get sweets! We headed to Gerard Mulot and the big main store was open, missed it before and ended up at their little cafe for decadent cakes and tea, not today main store is bustling!

Picked out six macarons to fit in a box... Chocolat, noisette, fig, framboise, citron, nougat and 1 marron for the road...yum. Cash or 12 euro minimum to use card. I still like Pierre Herme's a teeny tad better and I wanna try the ones sold at McDonalds.

Walked around more then BAM we see the Seine! BAM BAM BAM Notre Dame!! Oh we really are in Paris!!! Detoured to a nearby pharmacie for the forgotten toiletries like toothpaste then back to the apt for some serious snoozefest.

Great start! I'm along for the ride. And..... congratulations!

Tessietoes I have 5 itineraries on my computer �� obviously reading too many TR's... Paris is in there somewhere.

Congratulations on your engagement! I, for one, love yappy trip reports (and mine always end up that way too), so yap away. I look forward to hearing more about your adventure! :)

What Boston said. I know this will be a fun read - keep it up, tessietoes!

Thanks! Slow and steady.

Next day.

I passed out and didn't wake up till 2pm. I was zonked out. MF (my fiancé) had already left to take the train to London for a work meeting. I am all alone until tomorrow night. I'm feeling french onion soup!

I walked to Les Editeurs in the 6th where I had it once. Sat outside looking out on the street, heaters kept me warm enough I removed my wool coat. That soup was yummy! Thick melty gooey cheese mmm. For dessert cream puff and red wine. The cream puff was not what I had in mind, more like two airy cookies with vanilla ice cream in the center like a sandwich. I covered that thing with the pitcher of melted chocolate and went to town!

I planned to go to Victor Hugo's house and really needed the walk. I was stuffed. I didn't even finish the soup but totally hit the spot. The waitstaff was notably nice at this place, very accommodating. My waiter kept saying to everyone's requests, "no problem, no problem, no problem" the host checked on me twice and they both asked if I was warm enough. Obviously a touristy place but the soup was delicious.

Started walking to VH, about 30 mins away (I walk slow), and a tenth on my walk, no heater now, omg soo cold! I literally had to stop at H&M for leggings to wear under my dress and wool coat. Black ones... off I went toasty in the cold. This is one of the things I love doing in Paris that brings me so much happiness and is truly heaven on earth, just walking everywhere. Just strolling meandering lulling around walking jolly jolly life. I finally get to VH's apt, it's free but I give 5 euros for the audioguide.

He rented the second floor with his wife and kids for 16 years and I have to say have you seen the view from his place? Spans and overlooks Place des Vosges. He seemed like he had at least three loves in his life, Adele (sp?) seeming to be the one he loved the most, his childhood sweetheart? I don't remember ...There was also china displayed that looked like a bookcase he used in Gurnney!? huh?..my notes suck sorry. Ignore this paragraph.

Anyway back to Victor. I was there until they kicked everyone out, very much enjoyed it there. I walked back to the apt passing St Antoine and all the shops that got me nostalgic. We stayed in the Marais before and bought a lot of food along this street.. foie gras, pastries, roasted chicken, fruits, chocolates, baguettes you name it it's on this street.

Crossing over there's Notre Dame again, not a line but didn't feel like going in. After taking a sunset video over the bridge my phone died. Shoot I don't remember how to get back but low and behold I didn't get lost.

Lounged in the apt but by 9:30p hunger struck. I initially called Les Papilles to make a reservation. She said for how many? I said for 1. She said only 1? I said, Yes. Then she said, I'm sorry we are fully booked.

Oh yeah?? It didn't seem like it, Audrey! Anyway I didn't make a fuss.

Off to Le Petit Médicis... brrrr....it's cold. Only two groups of people inside. I sat by the window and texted with a friend vacationing in Rome to see if our schedules worked to have a last minute celebration in Paris (she just got engaged too) text text text ...next week, no way, yay!

I ordered Verre Magnan?? (red wine)
Blancs de Poirea... leeks w egg and something else for appetizer and a duck confit with salad and potato, mille feuille for dessert.

Waiter was very professional and kind but seemed disappointed I didn't eat all my food. As I'm walking out the last table by the door all greeted me in unison ...BON SOIR!