Enchanted April (What's that you say? "Crazy dear one, it was January.") Don’t fret, for it was oh so very Enchanted April in our minds. DH & Tiff’s Italian Journey
Feb 22nd, 2006, 07:55 AM
#24
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fun4all4 ~ you made me laugh with your “computer isolation period”, too cute.
Marianna ~ I will look forward to YOUR trip report, I shall be in desperate need of a Venice fix by then!
Ellenem, OWJ, Barbara, Betsy & hipvirgochick~ thank you, too kind! I’ll keep typing, I promise.
My LoveItaly ~ Bless your
hopingtotravel ~ thrilled you are enjoying my ramblings, thank you.
dear Scarlett ~ your words always brighten my day, glad to return it to you. Happy your DH got a smile too.
Hi SusanEva ~ airline gear in hand and ready for next adventure, all saved from Italy journey.
STW ~ Hi doll, it brings me peace to know I am not alone.
TexasAggie ~ Thank you, I so enjoyed your 12 Days… so I appreciate your comments.
wanderlust5 ~ you made me laugh! You will appreciate one of my traumas was when I went to reapply my favorite lip balm, only to discover it was down to the place where you can’t roll it up any more and I hadn’t packed ‘an extra’. I had to ration for the duration of our journey. Yikes, it was indeed touch and go there for a while, ha.
p.s. You think these dining recs are good, wait until you read about the next one, shhhhhhhhhhhhhh, it’s a secret for a bit more…
FainaAgain ~ doll, thank you very much.
Kopp ~ lemme just tell you, that little machine is fantastic, especially for travel to large cities with street noise, it really did drown out everything with exception to the Italian Idol episode. No machine is perfect.
Oh and so you won’t be disappointed we did a day trip WITH a tour guide by the name of Luca from Hills and Roads not TO Lucca. Details will be forthcoming…
Artlover ~ One can never forget a loyal love, right?
Marianna ~ I will look forward to YOUR trip report, I shall be in desperate need of a Venice fix by then!
Ellenem, OWJ, Barbara, Betsy & hipvirgochick~ thank you, too kind! I’ll keep typing, I promise.
My LoveItaly ~ Bless your
hopingtotravel ~ thrilled you are enjoying my ramblings, thank you.
dear Scarlett ~ your words always brighten my day, glad to return it to you. Happy your DH got a smile too.
Hi SusanEva ~ airline gear in hand and ready for next adventure, all saved from Italy journey.
STW ~ Hi doll, it brings me peace to know I am not alone.
TexasAggie ~ Thank you, I so enjoyed your 12 Days… so I appreciate your comments.
wanderlust5 ~ you made me laugh! You will appreciate one of my traumas was when I went to reapply my favorite lip balm, only to discover it was down to the place where you can’t roll it up any more and I hadn’t packed ‘an extra’. I had to ration for the duration of our journey. Yikes, it was indeed touch and go there for a while, ha.
p.s. You think these dining recs are good, wait until you read about the next one, shhhhhhhhhhhhhh, it’s a secret for a bit more…
FainaAgain ~ doll, thank you very much.
Kopp ~ lemme just tell you, that little machine is fantastic, especially for travel to large cities with street noise, it really did drown out everything with exception to the Italian Idol episode. No machine is perfect.
Oh and so you won’t be disappointed we did a day trip WITH a tour guide by the name of Luca from Hills and Roads not TO Lucca. Details will be forthcoming…
Artlover ~ One can never forget a loyal love, right?
Feb 22nd, 2006, 07:59 AM
#26
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Our next day begins with my Earl Grey and DH’s coffee. Our lovely breakfast has now become a necessity of the highest order. I never knew eggs could taste so good. Are they done in a special way? Probably not. Are they eggs prepared for us in Italy? Yes, and that is enough.
We walk and wander again. We find our way to Santa Croce this morning. I have never seen the piazza outside so quiet and peaceful, for the last time I was here was in May. We light a candle, and say a prayer. The frescoes are lovely and we stare for the longest time. The floor below us adorned with tombstones brings a certain peace and respect for those before us. The marble facade so beautiful and we sit in the crisp air and admire.
Upon walking across the piazza, we look at our pop-out (love them) map to locate a little restaurant for lunch named Leo’s (Via Torta 7R – www.florencerestaurant.com open for lunch and dinner – closed Mondays – phone 055 210829). I am so very thankful that I read Sammyc’s reply to Sweet Polly’s post on Florence restaurants. We are about to experience the best meal we will have in Italy. We do not yet know that we will return to our beloved Leo’s once more. During our first visit, we are honored guests. On our second visit, we are greeted as family. They will close the next day for a February break, and quite frankly if they had remained open I know we would have ate there yet again. What we discovered was not complicated... the vegetable soup, the flatbread, the ravioli, the seafood, Leo’s cake, but the way it was prepared, the aroma that was the gift before us still makes my mouth water even now, every bite to be savored, every single bite to be savored! This restaurant is a MUST and I beg of you, if you eat anywhere in Florence, this is not to be missed. Our first engagement was 53 Euros (vino, primi, and secondi) Second visit just a titch more due to dessert. I wish we were there now.
Later, as we walk we decide to pop in and have a bit of Limoncello (I think of SusanP as I sip mine). We are the type of travelers that love to take it all in, we do not like to rush, it is amazing how much one can miss by running from site to site. It is a requirement for us to take it slower. See a site, visit a favorite spot, then stop, relax, gaze upon the beauty. What we have discovered through this process is while meals are events in Italy, the ‘stop in for coffee’ is a flash in the pan. In they come, out they go, back and forth. We love this and watch in amazement as we sip our Limoncello. ~In, Ciao, order, down it goes, grazie, Ciao, gone~ We watch them all do this, it is fun. It’s routine. Some need not say anything but Ciao and the man behind the bar knows what is required.
Dinner that night was at a lovely establishment called Pennello’s (Via d Alighieri, 4R – phone 055 29 48 48) DH stated that they had the best clams he has ever had. I had the lemon pasta and it was delicious. It was a nice atmosphere. They made a lovely little fresh orange juice concoction for me, it was delightful.
We rise to greet the next day knowing it will be spent with Luca from Hills and Roads. Our sprinkly drizzle over the past few days has now become rain, but not a downpour. Just enough time to eat breakfast and there is Luca on time to the exact minute at 9:30am, we would return back to Florence at 7:30pm.
We reserved time with Luca solely based upon the reviews here. Were it not for you, we would have most likely not found him. He was one of the best parts of our trip and well worth what we paid. (30/E per hour for two). His new Renault van was clean and nice for a party of two such as us or could easily accommodate a larger group. He was a very safe driver.
I had expressed to Luca via email what our desires on what we would like to see. I also requested his input based on those desires and there you are, we now have an itinerary. It would include:
~Castello Vicchiomaggio, Greve in Chianti
~Montefioralle
~Lunch in San Sano
~Monte Santa Marie, an abandoned village
~Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore
This was an absolutely mystical day. Yes, it was raining, but the rain and the fog only added to the experience, and made it all so magical. Seeing the terrain change as we drove from area to area. First so thick and full of trees. Then later rolling green hills, so lovely and without end. The wineries all tucked away and trimmed down for the winter.
Luca was very easy to be around. He was extremely knowledgeable. He spoke of this great land and his love for it and you could listen for hours. It was not tiresome in the least. We felt he wholeheartedly took in what we desired and presented the day. He was the kind of person that you feel you have known forever. He was a pleasure and we felt blessed that he was available during our time in Italy.
Castello Vicchiomaggio ~ A lovely winery that dates back to the 5th century. Delicious, Chianti Classico. They have rental apartments available, and we saw a couple of them. Nice, very clean, lovely views, a pool during the warm weather months. It is said that Leonardo da Vinci was a guest here while he painted the Mona Lisa. www.vicchiomaggio.it
Montefioralle ~ I could weep when I think of how much I loved it here. This little medieval village was exquisite and found myself not wanting to leave. I looked at my DH and he could see it in my eyes. The pictures I shot here are my favorite. The rain falling down the streets of this walled village set the perfect scene.
Monte Santa Marie ~ This was an experience. It was incredible to be wandering around this abandoned village. Wind hollering through an open window. Untended vinery now traveling independently and free from restraint. A quiet, eerie feeling. Although no one was there, you had the distinct feeling you should tip toe through as not to disturb anything. I could see children of the past playing amongst the paths. We each exchanged our own story as to where everyone had drifted to. It reminded me of our “three word story” threads on Fodors.
Dog Guarding His Sheep ~ On our way to the Abbey, we pulled over to take some pix I had barely opened my door only to find a very good watch dog telling me these were his sheep and I needn’t be here interrupting their day. I thanked him for his time and off we went. He scared the h*ll out of me, which I suppose is good when you are on your way to visit an Abbey…
Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore ~ What a beautiful Benedictine Abbey. It dates back to the early 1300’s. The gorgeous frescoes running along the larger cloister tell a story with 36 scenes. Luca walked us around to each of them giving interpretation. Small chapels and lovely choir stalls are not to be missed. Also, go upstairs and visit the library, and a back room to admire the pottery they used to mix up pharmaceuticals.
The day was ending and the fog is rolling even in thicker now, it is one of the most breathtaking sights we have ever seen. Had knights rolled in fully suited up on their horses it would not have surprised us one bit. It was truly mystical.
Luca drives the two weary but happy and content souls back to Firenze. And where do the souls request to be dropped off, the palazzo? No, Leo’s. We must visit once more, for tomorrow they will close for holiday.
Next installment:
"The Bargello" or "how DH took a wrong turn…"
We walk and wander again. We find our way to Santa Croce this morning. I have never seen the piazza outside so quiet and peaceful, for the last time I was here was in May. We light a candle, and say a prayer. The frescoes are lovely and we stare for the longest time. The floor below us adorned with tombstones brings a certain peace and respect for those before us. The marble facade so beautiful and we sit in the crisp air and admire.
Upon walking across the piazza, we look at our pop-out (love them) map to locate a little restaurant for lunch named Leo’s (Via Torta 7R – www.florencerestaurant.com open for lunch and dinner – closed Mondays – phone 055 210829). I am so very thankful that I read Sammyc’s reply to Sweet Polly’s post on Florence restaurants. We are about to experience the best meal we will have in Italy. We do not yet know that we will return to our beloved Leo’s once more. During our first visit, we are honored guests. On our second visit, we are greeted as family. They will close the next day for a February break, and quite frankly if they had remained open I know we would have ate there yet again. What we discovered was not complicated... the vegetable soup, the flatbread, the ravioli, the seafood, Leo’s cake, but the way it was prepared, the aroma that was the gift before us still makes my mouth water even now, every bite to be savored, every single bite to be savored! This restaurant is a MUST and I beg of you, if you eat anywhere in Florence, this is not to be missed. Our first engagement was 53 Euros (vino, primi, and secondi) Second visit just a titch more due to dessert. I wish we were there now.
Later, as we walk we decide to pop in and have a bit of Limoncello (I think of SusanP as I sip mine). We are the type of travelers that love to take it all in, we do not like to rush, it is amazing how much one can miss by running from site to site. It is a requirement for us to take it slower. See a site, visit a favorite spot, then stop, relax, gaze upon the beauty. What we have discovered through this process is while meals are events in Italy, the ‘stop in for coffee’ is a flash in the pan. In they come, out they go, back and forth. We love this and watch in amazement as we sip our Limoncello. ~In, Ciao, order, down it goes, grazie, Ciao, gone~ We watch them all do this, it is fun. It’s routine. Some need not say anything but Ciao and the man behind the bar knows what is required.
Dinner that night was at a lovely establishment called Pennello’s (Via d Alighieri, 4R – phone 055 29 48 48) DH stated that they had the best clams he has ever had. I had the lemon pasta and it was delicious. It was a nice atmosphere. They made a lovely little fresh orange juice concoction for me, it was delightful.
We rise to greet the next day knowing it will be spent with Luca from Hills and Roads. Our sprinkly drizzle over the past few days has now become rain, but not a downpour. Just enough time to eat breakfast and there is Luca on time to the exact minute at 9:30am, we would return back to Florence at 7:30pm.
We reserved time with Luca solely based upon the reviews here. Were it not for you, we would have most likely not found him. He was one of the best parts of our trip and well worth what we paid. (30/E per hour for two). His new Renault van was clean and nice for a party of two such as us or could easily accommodate a larger group. He was a very safe driver.
I had expressed to Luca via email what our desires on what we would like to see. I also requested his input based on those desires and there you are, we now have an itinerary. It would include:
~Castello Vicchiomaggio, Greve in Chianti
~Montefioralle
~Lunch in San Sano
~Monte Santa Marie, an abandoned village
~Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore
This was an absolutely mystical day. Yes, it was raining, but the rain and the fog only added to the experience, and made it all so magical. Seeing the terrain change as we drove from area to area. First so thick and full of trees. Then later rolling green hills, so lovely and without end. The wineries all tucked away and trimmed down for the winter.
Luca was very easy to be around. He was extremely knowledgeable. He spoke of this great land and his love for it and you could listen for hours. It was not tiresome in the least. We felt he wholeheartedly took in what we desired and presented the day. He was the kind of person that you feel you have known forever. He was a pleasure and we felt blessed that he was available during our time in Italy.
Castello Vicchiomaggio ~ A lovely winery that dates back to the 5th century. Delicious, Chianti Classico. They have rental apartments available, and we saw a couple of them. Nice, very clean, lovely views, a pool during the warm weather months. It is said that Leonardo da Vinci was a guest here while he painted the Mona Lisa. www.vicchiomaggio.it
Montefioralle ~ I could weep when I think of how much I loved it here. This little medieval village was exquisite and found myself not wanting to leave. I looked at my DH and he could see it in my eyes. The pictures I shot here are my favorite. The rain falling down the streets of this walled village set the perfect scene.
Monte Santa Marie ~ This was an experience. It was incredible to be wandering around this abandoned village. Wind hollering through an open window. Untended vinery now traveling independently and free from restraint. A quiet, eerie feeling. Although no one was there, you had the distinct feeling you should tip toe through as not to disturb anything. I could see children of the past playing amongst the paths. We each exchanged our own story as to where everyone had drifted to. It reminded me of our “three word story” threads on Fodors.
Dog Guarding His Sheep ~ On our way to the Abbey, we pulled over to take some pix I had barely opened my door only to find a very good watch dog telling me these were his sheep and I needn’t be here interrupting their day. I thanked him for his time and off we went. He scared the h*ll out of me, which I suppose is good when you are on your way to visit an Abbey…
Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore ~ What a beautiful Benedictine Abbey. It dates back to the early 1300’s. The gorgeous frescoes running along the larger cloister tell a story with 36 scenes. Luca walked us around to each of them giving interpretation. Small chapels and lovely choir stalls are not to be missed. Also, go upstairs and visit the library, and a back room to admire the pottery they used to mix up pharmaceuticals.
The day was ending and the fog is rolling even in thicker now, it is one of the most breathtaking sights we have ever seen. Had knights rolled in fully suited up on their horses it would not have surprised us one bit. It was truly mystical.
Luca drives the two weary but happy and content souls back to Firenze. And where do the souls request to be dropped off, the palazzo? No, Leo’s. We must visit once more, for tomorrow they will close for holiday.
Next installment:
"The Bargello" or "how DH took a wrong turn…"
Feb 22nd, 2006, 08:12 AM
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Oh Tiff, how wonderful!
I smiled when you mentioned our "three word stories", they are fun.
Your descriptive words paint such a incredible image -- I want to go to Florence with my DH.
Looking forward to more...
I smiled when you mentioned our "three word stories", they are fun.
Your descriptive words paint such a incredible image -- I want to go to Florence with my DH.
Looking forward to more...
Feb 22nd, 2006, 08:20 AM
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Hi Robdaddy ~ Thank you kindly.
My STW ~ I think that you either passionately love Florence or have an appreciation for it, there is no in between.
If it sink into your heart and soul, it will always be part of you as it is me.
I hope you go with your DH
My STW ~ I think that you either passionately love Florence or have an appreciation for it, there is no in between.
If it sink into your heart and soul, it will always be part of you as it is me.
I hope you go with your DH
Looking forward to more.
Feb 22nd, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Tiff: I AM a writer, and I totally agree with the post that said you should also be a writer. You have the gift!
I especially loved the dog scaring the bejesus out of you enroute to the Abby. Hilarious. Anticipating the next installment..
I especially loved the dog scaring the bejesus out of you enroute to the Abby. Hilarious. Anticipating the next installment..
Feb 22nd, 2006, 01:40 PM
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What a wonderful trip report! I can actually imagine being there....of course, that is until I look up and see three co-workers coming to me! DH and I are going back to Italy in about three weeks, and your report has me aching for it! Can't wait to read the rest!
Tracy
Tracy
Feb 22nd, 2006, 02:59 PM
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Montefioralle was a short walk from an agriturismo (Podere Torre, highly recommended!) we stayed at several years ago. The dinner we ate in Montefioralle at la Castellana (I think that is the name) was our favorite of that trip.
I can totally picture our evening walk down there and our later "waddle" back to our cozy lodgings...ahhhhhhhhh! Thank you for the memory!
I can totally picture our evening walk down there and our later "waddle" back to our cozy lodgings...ahhhhhhhhh! Thank you for the memory!
Feb 22nd, 2006, 03:54 PM
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Hi Tiff!!
Thank you so much for your wonderful trip report! You SHOULD be a writer, if you're not, because you definitely have a way with words.
I love your trip report, and laughed out loud at the beginning. My husband always falls asleep before the plane takes off and I'm just like you, with all my necessary paraphanalia and still barely fall asleep. (Although last time, AMBIEN really helped!)
We will be in Florence again in June, and we'll definitely try Leo's. Sounds wonderful.
Can't wait to hear about the Bargello. Missed that last time and am really looking forward to it this time!
Keep writing!!
Dina
Thank you so much for your wonderful trip report! You SHOULD be a writer, if you're not, because you definitely have a way with words.
I love your trip report, and laughed out loud at the beginning. My husband always falls asleep before the plane takes off and I'm just like you, with all my necessary paraphanalia and still barely fall asleep. (Although last time, AMBIEN really helped!)
We will be in Florence again in June, and we'll definitely try Leo's. Sounds wonderful.
Can't wait to hear about the Bargello. Missed that last time and am really looking forward to it this time!
Keep writing!!
Dina
Feb 22nd, 2006, 04:02 PM
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Tiff, I am reeling -- first of all, from having been of use with the seatguru recommendation, then from your post about Pal.zo Niccolini, which I though I alone had discovered, then from the Florence/ Tuscany observations and recommendations.
Only 6 days -- yikes -- until we'll be in Italy (first Rome, then Venice, then dear Tuscany, specifically Barberino Val d'Elsa).
I'm madly printing and photo-copying, among which photocopies will be your thoughtful, informative posts....And I'm adding Montefioralle to our itinerary.
Only 6 days -- yikes -- until we'll be in Italy (first Rome, then Venice, then dear Tuscany, specifically Barberino Val d'Elsa).
I'm madly printing and photo-copying, among which photocopies will be your thoughtful, informative posts....And I'm adding Montefioralle to our itinerary.
