Eleven days in Umbria. June 2011 - Big pieces of the puzzle are in place.
 

Staying in Spello during Infiorata ((Y))
Plane flights ((Y))
Hotel for one night in Ovieto ((Y))
Apartment in Spello for ten nights ((Y))
Rental car ((Y))
GPS ((Y))
Rosetta Stone Italian lessons ((Y))

Now the fun begins...the details.

I have a ton of questions about logistics, timing and other things. I won't crame it all into this one message, but there are some things I'd like to get some feedback on right away.

After arriving in Rome around 9 am we will be driving to Orvieto for the night. It is my hope that we can get in a nice lunch, a good walk around, a look at the Duomo and an underground tour that day (we like our first day to be busy), followed by a satisfying dinner. We will be departing the next day for our apartment in Spello. I don't imagine we will be in a rush to leave and if there is something we want to do in Orvieto that next day, we will do it.

Would it be a logical choice to visit Todi enroute to Spello? We could have lunch there and explore. Or could Todi be left for a later excursion that might include other points of interest (whatever those might be)?

How about leaving a rental car with luggage in it in Todi for a few hours? Risky? Thoughts?

Thanks to research done here and other places our hit list for this trip include trips to Gubbio, the immediate area around Spello, Bevagna, Montelfalco and Trevi, Assisi, Perugia, Piano Grande and Norcia, and a trip to San Pietro en Valle with a possible visit to Cascata del Marmore and Carsulae (more on that in another post).

Another, rather selfish given is a rather long day trip to Faenza to see the ceramics museum and a visit some of the artists workshops there. I posted about this on another forum and got positive feedback. Early departure, late arrival. More on this later too, but I am thinking that a dinner on the way back in Montone or Umbertide would be fun. Doable?

That's if for now. I have been perusing this site for months now and am finally starting to get stoked for the trip to happen and ready for some details to fill in the blanks.

Thank you!

I think lunch in Todi would be very nice. You should be fine with luggage locked in the trunk.

Will you be using the Touring Club of Italy Umbria guidebook? I really like their suggested itineraries and details on the Norcia area.

You may enjoy this site for digging deaper into Umbria-

http://umbrialoversblog.blogspot.com/

If you haven't been to Civita di Bagnoregio, you might want to stop there as you are leaving Orvieto as it's not very far (not really on your route, but not far off either).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civita_di_Bagnoregio

I was in some of the towns you've listed this past September and some of the smaller towns were quite deserted (not much open) so you might not be spending as much time as you think in some of them. Perhaps June is busier than September.

Nice trip!
Todi is really a short drive---I would not stop there unless you take the advice of seeing Civita that AM--which I would do.

Oh yes, I meant to mention Locanda Rosati as a good place to stay. It is 6 miles outside of Orvieto but the dinner with the owner is worth the trip. And, there is a back road from near there to Civita the next morning. Do not miss the vista of Orvieto from the west as you approach--magnificent.

This sounds like a great plan! I travel in Umbria whenever I can (I'm also returning in June) and you're hitting some real high points.

Some of the towns, including Spello and Montefalco, are quite small and they really quiet down during mid-day -- say, from about noon or 1 until as late as 4 p.m. That may be what kybourbon experienced. Just keep that in mind when you're planning. Churches and museums are often closed for much of the afternoon, even many stores close as people take lunch, so that can be a good time to travel if you're seeing two towns in one day; or just sit and have a cold drink. The pace in smaller centres really is much slower, I think, than travelers are used to.

As Bob says, it's not a very long drive from Orvieto to Todi, so you could certainly stop enroute.

And if you haven't heard about Bevagna's Gaite de Mercato festival in late June, check it out -- it's really remarkable. For two weeks, the entire town is transformed into something out of the Middle Ages. The four main neighborhoods compete to see who has the most authentic costumes, taverns (fantastic food) and recreation of medieval workshops such as weavers, candlemakers, apothecaries, etc.

Thanks for your responses so far!

zoecat, I don't have the touring book yet, but will check it out. Thanks too for the blog page. I will check that out as well.

ky and Bob. We are staying at the hotel Duomo in Orvieto. So we can see Civita that next morning and still make Todi for lunch at Antica Hosteria de la Valle? This restuarant comes highly recommended from lots of folks and I really want to try it. Then it is off to Spello. Would that work?

Hi sacc,

I didn't see your post when I replied to the others. I am actually lookig forward to a slow and relaed pace, that is why we chose Spello to stay in. Our apartment has a garden area with a view of the Valley and I imagine spending time reading and nappping there whent he rest of the twon is also resting.

I think our overall plan is leave in the morning to tour one or two places, have lunch out and then return back "home" in the afternoon to rest and refresh and then either have dinner in Spello or someplace nearby like Foligno. We will probably cook a dinner or two in as well, especially during Infiorata.

I am aware of the Mercato in Bevagna and we plan to spend at least one or two days there during the festival. I understand that eating dinner there is quite the experience. I am ecited to experience it. Any hints or inside tips on how to make the most of it?

Yes, that will work quite well.

Thanks Bob.

You might find the last bit of RHK's current trip report interesting since it's about visiting his sister who lives in a small town near Todi (Pesciano).

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment

Montone is lovely. After staying there last year, it is on my list of favorite places in Italy. We ate at an outstanding restaurant one night, and I would gladly go back: Erba Luna. I had a bit of duck prosciutto that was incredible and a poached garlic pasta dish... wonderful food. Great little town. It's a steep walk to the top of town, but worth it.

Thanks for the link ky.

Thanks for the endorsement of Montone tuscanlife. It seems like it might make a good place to stop for a strectch and dinner on our long way back from Faenza. The description of your meal at Erba Luna is why we are going to Italy.

iamq -- seems like we'll be in umbria at the same time, but we are staying in northern umbria, in a small town just northwest of perugia.

we also hope to make it to the festival in bevagna to see the festivities. the only restaurant recommendation i've gotten for bevagna is OTTAVIUS. i would also love any tips as to how to make the most of enjoying the festival.

i found this website really helpful for my research. she has a lot of practical advice (driving/parking directions) and walking routes to enjoy around the towns.
http://madonnadelpiatto.com/classic-umbrian-day-trips/

Thanks, also tuscanlife, for the recommendation on montone. i believe it is not far from where we are staying!

Hi dina,

Yes, that site and blog are good. Her suggestions on daytrips sort of formed the skeleton for this trip.

Enoteca Piazza Onofri in Bevagna comes recommended.

iamg; If you are visiting Civita in the morning, get there as early as possible. There are a few free parking spaces just before the walkway up to the old town. So, drive as far as possible to the old town and check parking. Otherwise, it's a bit of a walk to the old town from additional parking. Richard

Hi iamq,

Here's a link to this year's Mercato delle Gaite website. http://www.ilmercatodellegaite.it/?q=node/8

It's in Italian, but I set my Google toolbar to "translate" and it's quite effective. That way you can see the program, and get some background information about the different workshops (some open throughout the summer for visitors)

I've found that evenings, especially on the weekends, are the most fun and exciting. After dark, when the old medieval streets and alleys in Bevagna are lit by torches, the entire atmosphere is really different -- it's quite effective! In the main square, there are often musical events with drummers and pipes; or jugglers and fire-eaters -- the sorts of shows that one might see in a medieval festa. And the public taverns, where kids dressed in medieval costume serve historic recipes are great fun.

Parking can be a bit of a challenge, some open fields outside the historic town walls are turned into lots, but everything is really well marked and organized.

It's really a remarkable event, I hope you'll be able to make it!

Ditto Piazza Onofri, the duck and steak were great.

Thanks sacc! You're right, the google translation is very good.

I found this blog entry on the Mercato as well. It is good.

http://www.brigolante.com/en/2010/07...olde-about-it/

Hi iris, We will mostlikely get there early, so thanks for the advice about the parking.

In Bevagna, we also enjoyed Ottavius (though we weren't there for the Mercato).

In Montefalco, we liked Il Coccorone, in
Largo Tempestivi.

For special things to see, stop 3 km south of Trevi at the Tempietto di Clitunno. It's a tiny early Christian temple (IV-VI centuries), made with old Roman stonework, with painted figures on the walls inside. It's near the Fonti di Clitunno, which has been a beautiful destination location since Roman times.