Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

el escorial vs valley of the fallen

Search

el escorial vs valley of the fallen

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 08:44 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
el escorial vs valley of the fallen

If there is time to only see one or the other from the outside since both are closed on Mondays, - which can you see more of from the outside?
I understand you can walk around the grounds of El Escorial - what about the Valley of the Fallen?
sander is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 11:37 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Of course, you can easily visit both sites within an hour.

Real Sitio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial (the Royal Castle) is impressive enough from the outside (it is even more impressive from the inside) and the setting is very scenic.

Valle de los Caídos (Franco monunment) is a typical monument of a fascist dictator. I do not say anything else.
traveller1959 is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 11:51 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,772
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
sander,
Although they're only 14 km. apart, I wouldn't make the drive to either on a Monday since both monuments will be closed. I'd use that day to do another day trip instead. I don't remember right now your exact itinerary, but would Segovia or Avila be possible? Most sites are open in Segovia on Mon. and you can walk the walls of Avila on Mon. as well. Both are very pretty drives (I assume that you'll be driving).

The attractive town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial is tiny (I spent an entire summer there with students) but can be seen in a half hour. And since the Monastery will be closed, the town will be very quiet. You can walk around it, of course, but it sure won't take long.

The drive to the Valley of the Fallen is pleasant, through the forest, but this Franco monument/mausoleum itself is cold and foreboding looking and feeling in my opinion. And when it's closed, the gate at the entrance, I assume, shuts tight as well (but I've never been on a Mon.).
Maribel is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 01:48 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I second Maribel's advice.

I assume you stay in Madrid and you have the opportunity for a daytrip.

It might be a good option to drive to El Escorial (it is a very scenic drive), to have a brief look, and to proceed to Avila (a completely walled medieval city).

Another option would be driving south to Toledo.
traveller1959 is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 02:05 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,772
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A second to traveller1959 regarding the back roads drive from El Escorial to Avila on the CL 505. We've taken that route several times-I can attest to how scenic it is.

But if you are staying in Madrid and planning to rent a car just for this day trip out of the city, I would suggest that you do a day trip by public transportation (commuter train or bus to El Escorial, Regional train to Avila, high speed to Segovia or Toledo) to avoid the time-consuming rental car pick up/drop off and the drive through the horrendous Madrid Mon. morning traffic to get on your way to any of these destinations. Much less hassle.

If you have a countryside base already with a rental, then by all means, any of these options would make a pleasant drive.
Maribel is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 02:34 PM
  #6  
Ivy
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
these are both great sites to see, I would not bother with either if they are closed though. The inside is what counts. Use your day for other day trips, spain has so many!
Ivy is offline  
Old Aug 24th, 2008, 07:08 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 26,710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
There is also some controversy over Valle fe los Caidos since slave labor was used to build it.

El Escorial is impressive to see the kings buried one on top of one another.
Aduchamp1 is offline  
Old Aug 25th, 2008, 03:06 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
El Escorial is certainly impressive from the outside, but it's what's inside that to me makes a trip there worthwhile. The little historic downtown next to it is nice, but easily seen in an hour or two at most.

Valley of the Fallen is stunningly awful unless you really, really, really like clunky neo-Fascist style architecture/sculpture and creepy Grand Guignol tapestries. The park surrounding it is nice and the view is good, but nothing else about the place is worthwhile.

Much of what's worth seeing in Segovia is open Mondays, if memory serves. Probably a much better option, and the town is an easy day trip from Madrid.
bachslunch is offline  
Old Aug 26th, 2008, 03:47 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Valle has the feeling of a stage set. I have always been at a loss of words to describe it. But a lot of the experience has to do with that cold, gloomy interior. I would not bother to go there if it was closed.

El Escorial is very nice and the town is pleasant as Maribel said before.

But Avila, now we are talking
marigross is offline  
Old Aug 26th, 2008, 05:20 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm going to Madrid in December and having some of these same questions.

Can Segovia and El Escorial be seen in one day trip or should we do 2?

Also, Toledo was mentioned. I can't find when the Alcazar is reopening. Would this day trip be good for a Monday? Is it still worth going if the paintings are not there and Alcazar not reopened?

uptowngirl2418 is offline  
Old Aug 26th, 2008, 09:38 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Both El Escorial and Valley of the Fallen can be seen in a day trip from Madrid, and can be done as such with or without a car.

If you don't have a car, you'd want to come out to see El Escorial in the morning, poke around the nearby old town early in the afternoon, then catch the one bus that goes to and from VotF later in the afternoon.

It might be wise to double check the hours for both places in December first, though.

It might be possible to see Seville and El Escorial (without VotF) in the same day if you have a car and get a really early start, but I'm thinking the whole experience will be rushed, as there's plenty to see in Segovia and walking around the historic old town there is part of the fun. I'm guessing it'll be pretty much impossible to do both via public transport in a day.

Re Toledo: as I understand it, the Alcazar may be closed for a while yet, and when it opens it will house what was the old army museum in Madrid. You can still see a lot in Toledo without hitting the Alcazar, though -- it's a lovely old city with several pleasant attractions, including a first-rate cathedral. It's well worth a visit regardless.
bachslunch is offline  
Old Aug 27th, 2008, 08:16 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am amazed at how many comments the Valley of the Fallen arise, whilst no comment is offered on the Escorial Monastery, built by an absolute monarch.
I like very much the Valley, and its building concept, especially the statues devised and sculpted by late Juan de Avalos whom I had the honor to be acquitance to (the Cross and Piet&aacute, and other extraordinary sculptors. And it is an Abbey, a Nave and burial place built in the heart of a mountain, so its interior is dark and gloomy. Anyway it is worth the visit from the outside, and it wont take long. I'll add in other post a comment on the tapestries.
josele is offline  
Old Sep 5th, 2008, 08:34 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The tapestries were woven in the Low Countries no later than 1540 by Wm. Pannemaker, from paintings attributed to Bernard Van Orley. Purchased by king Phillip II and brought to Spain in 1553. They depict scenes from St John's Apocalypse, so no wonder they may seem "creepy" to some.
The slave labour issue is a hoax, and I do not think this the place to discuss it.
josele is offline  
Old Sep 5th, 2008, 09:36 AM
  #14  
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3,227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No, this is not the place to discuss it..I agree. That's why I won't answer that comment of the "hoax".
kenderina is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
laverendrye
Europe
16
Aug 13th, 2017 07:51 AM
lol
Europe
17
Jan 14th, 2009 01:59 AM
vibhav
Europe
68
Sep 30th, 2008 12:54 PM
amsdon
Europe
23
Apr 9th, 2007 06:39 PM
jacqui13
Europe
10
Sep 23rd, 2003 07:37 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -