Eighteen nights in vejer de la frontera
 

I am now well into my fifth visit to this area, located in Andalucia's Cadiz province and known as the COSTA DE LA LUZ.
When foreigners think of the coastline of southern Sain, they often imagine the Costa del Sol, west of Malaga and centered around towns like Marbella and Estepona and Torremolinos. This area, while but a few hours to the west, shows a very different side of Spain, and one of the reasons that makes me return is that here we have not only the enchanting cities of Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera, and a countryside dotted with many of the quintessential Andalusian "white towns." The difference is that most of the "white towns" here do not attract bus tours and masses of tourists, so for me they are much more enchanting than the more famous towns whose names show up on the itineraries of almost every first-time visitor to Andalucia. An exception is Arcos de la Frontera, which is an easy drive of less than an hour away and does draw lots of visitors. But how many of these visitors have heard of Medina Sidonia, or Vejer de la Frontera or the many enchanting dots on the local map?

The white towns are but one reason that I love this area. Some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe are a short drive from where I stay--I can reach the long, wide, sandy beach of El Palmar de Vejer in about 15 minutes of easy driving. And there I can walk along the endless sands, have lunch at one of the many unassuming seafood restaurants that front the beach, and gawk at the red Retina cows that munch in the grass between the sands and the narrow road..... I can't really ask for more during the month of March, when tourists are few and the weather back home in New York is pretty dismal much of the time.

I've written about my visits here before and this year, for some reason, I have suddenly lost the ability to post photos on this site without a long, arduous and often unsuccessful attempt. (See my pathetic attempts at adding photos to my recent, aborted report on my 6 nights in Barcelona, that preceeded my stay here.)

Happily, I do post on HUNGRYONION.ORG, the food-centric site that has taken the place of the now-defunct Chowhound.

There are photos and details about my adventures eating and shopping for food during this trip, here:


https://www.hungryonion.org/t/costa-...tera-etc/47248



From Barcelona, where I had a most glorious six-night stay, I flew on the budget carrier, Vueling, direct to Sevilla. My ultimate destination was Jerez de la Frontera, where I would pick up my rental car, but the one day that there is no direct Barcelona-Jerez flight is Wednesday, the day of my transfer. So rather than take a more expensive Iberia flight to Jerez with a connection in MAD, I opted to fly direct to Sevilla and spend one night in Jerez de la Frontera before picking up my car and moving on to Vejer.


The easiest, although the most expensive, method of transfer from SVQ to Jerez city is by car, so I arranged to have my favorite Jerez taxi driver pick me up at the Sevilla airport and drive me to my hotel in Jerez, the CASA PALACIO MARIA LUISA, a 21-room renovated palace which I am convinced is one of the most sublime hotels in southern Spain.

Last year, I stayed for a week at its sibling in Sevilla, PALACIO DON RAMON, and I'd stayed before at MARIA LUISA, so it felt like coming home when I walked in and was welcomed with hugs by the staff who I'd not seen since my overnight stay last March.


My flight arrived about 1:30pm in Sevilla so I got to the hotel in Jerez with plenty of time to relax and enjoy sips of the complimentary bottle of sherry and snacks with which the hotel greets all incoming guests.

I had a spectacular dinner at LA CARBONA, which is up there with my favorite restaurants in the city. I can't post photos, but you can see them here; my pics and comments are mixed in with Maribel's discussion of LA CARBONA, where she had dined a week or so prior to my own visit. Coincidentally, we had the same exact dishes: The chef's gift of a pate of chicken and pigeon, followed by a tartar of tomatoes and, finally, two filets of exquisite red mullet served over creamy rice.
Dessert was a chocolate souffle with caramel ice cream. The price of my dinner was 51.35 euro including bread and water. I'm always surprised at how prices in Spain compare favorably with those back home..... And you could have a lovely dinner for half that price at a less exalted address.




https://www.hungryonion.org/t/dining...n-update/47025

Yes, we did have the same exact dishes at my favorite Jerez restaurant, La Carboná and missed each other by one week.
My HO report for Jerez, Vejer, Conil de la Frontera here with photos--

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/dining...overy/47058/21

Casa Palacio Maria Luisa is indeed a lovely and welcoming hotel. The staff was just so good to us, first when I got a stomach bug and had to find a hospital on a Sunday, and then when there was a red alert because of the storms.

They just took care of us, as they cautioned us not to go out to Cadiz or any day trips around. Cadiz was flooded, as we found when we left town. We were given free rein in their 2 lounges, and they brought tea, lunches drinks, whatever we wanted. For a few days the stores and restaurants were mostly all closed, but the Maria Luisa was the perfect spot to pass time.

I am waiting to hear where you are staying in Vejer. We loved, loved it there, and stayed at the Califa, but the stairs are very hard to manage.

But how many of these visitors have heard of Medina Sidonia, or Vejer de la Frontera or the many enchanting dots on the local map?

We happened upon Medina Sidonia just before Carnival, and marveled at the bruja waiting to be burnt. Absolutely glorious part of Spain.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2eed5cb60f.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...082cb45c0.jpeg
Speaking of Medina Sidonia, this morning I was here at the workshop of the fifth-generation family owned workshop of the revered SOBRINO DE LAS TREJAS, makers of artisanal sweets using ancient Arab recipes. I am now in a restaurant in Medina and will see if I can post this photo from my phone..

Well, hallelujah. I was able to post a photo. Maybe cause the wifi here at RESTAURANTE DUQUE in Medina is strong.

Sounds like another wonderful trip. I took a look at your HungryOnion posts-yummy food!

Just wanted to put up a link to a property that I just became aware of, very close to where I stay, in the serene countryside outside the town of Vejer. I met the owner by chance today, introduced by Ana Duran, the local Pilates instructor that I have become acquainted with.

I looked up FINCA ENCANTO when I reached home and it truly looked lovely and gets great reviews. Unlike my accommodation, booking here would afford a private kitchen. There is a swimming pool as well, but not heated. The owner seemed simpatica and I will try to take a closer look this week, as it is just down the road from my own "address:" The location could not be better for those willing to rent a car.



This is the listing on AirB&B and she is also available for reservations through booking.com

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2622135...wrd-Zxk08_KLkh

My commentary on www.hungryonion.org is almost complete...

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/costa-...tera-etc/47248


I'm not sure that this report is helpful to anyone planning a visit to "CADIZFORNIA," the name for this coast that I learned from Dear Maribel. I've been so lucky to have traveled quite a bit in Spain. My first visit to Europe was to Spain, in the summer following high school, when I attended summer school (to learn Spanish, of course) in Valencia and I've been coming back, off and on and with many multi-year breaks in the bad times, for decades.

So these days, I prefer to just choose one city or one region and stay put, taking short day trips or just lounging around and chatting up as many people as will listen. This current trip is a perfect example of that, and one that could be done by anyone, anywhere, so much easier now with the availability of short-term rentals found online which did not exist during my early travel days. (I remember the days of writing those tissue-thin blue aerograms to hotels asking about the price and then booking..no deposit needed, no credit card numbers to give, etc....


And actual paper plane tickets, which the local travel agent (who had probably been outside the US twice in her career..shout out to Dotty Paley of Woodmere, New York)

Flash forward, I've been in my Vejer "home" for almost two weeks now, my fifth visit to the property that I now consider "my home" in Andalucia. Before I leave, I will mark my dates in their calendar for next year.

When I first stayed here, I was so enthusiastic and I urged my partner of about 30 years to come with me. Every year, he declined but the interesting thing is that I no longer wish he would come along. I savor the joys of solo travel in ways I could never imagine years ago. I am going to post this now and continue with a new response since character numbers are limited and I don't want to lose what I just wrote...

"......but the interesting thing is that I no longer wish he would come along. I savor the joys of solo travel in ways I could never imagine years ago......"

I am on my first solo in Poland right now and all I can say is that truer words were never spoken.....

About solo travel: When I was in the freelance writing phase of my career, I once got an assignment to write a cover story for a national travel magazine (pre-internet days--all I have are tear sheets of my articles). Back then, the magazine would pay for your first class plane tix and your hotel, often of your own choosing. Plus meals, etc etc.

I got this assignment to cover the newly hip Marais in Paris......10,000 words or so; maybe US$2. word, I can't remember...covered your rent but not much else, and you were always having to not only make the deadline but also to send out a stream of proposals for the next article,, plus juggle the offers for the free press trips, plus try to snag a few hours of sleep every ight...

So I receive the assignment for the Marais piece, slated to be a cover. I have about two weeks to cover the area, with heavy emphasis on dining. The editor gives me a list of restaurants she wants me to cover, and I add my own discoveries, so I am eating hotel breakfast plus lunch and plus dinner...all comped.

Sounds like a fantasy, right?

But my terror of walking in to Bistro xxxxxx was almost paralyzing. The first comment from the maitre was always "seuelement une??" (or was it "un??" I have very little grasp of French) before he would graciously lead me to my table, often one of the best in house, thanks t the bookings made by our editor-in-chief or her staff.....

And then the ordering, and the sense of everyone looking and wondering why this young woman was eating alone.....my imagination of course.....

So all this meandering is just to say how far I've come and that I think nothing of booking a table for one in a "good" restaurant, or of walking into a rural "venta/roadside inn," and relaxing over my meal, sometimes with a book, more often with a screen. Or attending an event alone, as I did recently in Barcelona for an opera.

I could never think forward to a day that this would be the case, but I am so happy that this day has come. Not only that, but up until about 5 years ago, the thought of driving alone in Europe would have thrown me into a near panic attack. Now it's as normal driving around here, and a lot more pleasurable, than hopping into my car back home. I even extend driving time by taking a back road, or a new route. Roads are so great around here, despite the damaging flooding last month. The only glitch is that it's hard to pull over, sometimes, and snap a view or a road sign, or whatever... The rolling hills are blanketed by a bright yellow flowers....just miles and miles of golden hills stretching out on both sides of the roads......

And the trees!!! There is a small tree that has just burst into bloom. It reminds me of what I know as "red bud" in the Mid-Atlantic and parts of the south. Glorious! And everywhere I look there is a tree heavy with oranges.

I had a perfect day yesterday, perfect for me:

Breakfast at hotel
Chance of morning swim nixed due to late wake-up; it's more than two weeks since I arrived and my sleep is still spotty.

Pilates lesson at 1pm (I have just discovered Paiutes and am only two months into weekly lessons back home)..long talk with Pilates teacher and her friend who owns a B&B nearby....every day I get into long discussions with people and I love this part of travel

Dash to Carrefour to pick up cheeses, apples (they had Pink Lady)roasted almonds, and a few bottles of Moscatel to supplement hotel's offerings.

Drive ten minutes to lunch, an an open air restaurant that I visit a few times each year...the name is LA CASTILLERA and its in a hard-to-find hamlet below Vejer. Well worth the drive and the moderately high prices due to the quality of the ingredients and the service..
Settled in for two hours--lunch, chatting with servers about various food-related topics. Yesterday I learned about "jamon de vaca," or "ham of beef."


Began with compliments of chef---plate of jamon de vaca---hand carved to a gossamer thinness and accompanied by fresh blackberries.



First dish: Pair of artichokes stuffed with a slightly sweet mince of lamb. if you like artichokes, always order them here.

Main course: Meat is the star of LA CASTILLERIA and the skills of grill master/owner is known throughout Spain. Instead of my usual tiny duckling lamb chops, I chose solomillo, the most tender of beef cuts (probably not the choice of steak connoisseurs)
This was so outstanding that I almost regretted my order of a half portion. I will go back this week; I keep relishing the taste memory.

Decline dessert, remembering my stash of Andaluz sweets in my room back home bought this week in Medina Sidonia.

Accept a glass of a digestif of my choice, in this case, Pacharan.

Exit restaurant...walk over to adjacent waterfall, start of a 5km walking trail which would be lovely with all the flowers in bloom...

Decide to take a small "short cut" back to the hotel, drive through an underpass and end up at a forked road with both directions marked as dead ends. Take the right fork for about 2 minutes before realizing that this actually is a dead end....in the midst of fields where I spy workers stooping.....

The pitted road/path is so narrow that I can't make u-turn so must back up..back to under the underpass.

Begin backing up and car camera begins screeching.....manuever in drive and reverse for about 10 minutes before two wheels teeter and topple partway into ditch/irrigation canal....but more back and forth, more screeching from car finally gets me u0 onto the path.

Drive "home," Take long swim about 7pm.
Make myself little plate of olives and nuts from downstairs, plus slices of apple and the rest of the Torta del Casar cheese I brought from Barcelona. Lie on sofa on terrace marveling at sky strewn with stars (no light pollution here) and listen to entire Callas NORMA.

Fall asleep around 11pm, after quick online searching for activity for tomorrow...walk the trails in La Breña coastal nature reserve (fellow guest spotted flamingos yesterday so want to see for myself) or visit open air art museum very close to hotel.....?


CDNYUL: That makes me happy! Poland must be more difficult because of the language....do you mind just telling us your trip plan......or anything at all....no difficulties at all with being alone, right? It's so "freeing!"

Oh that sounds like a glorious day ekscrunchy!
I too, absolutely love solo travel.

I always enjoy reading your fascinating (travel/ food) reports.

In my solo trips to Europe, I mostly miss company at dinner time.
I prefer big cities where I can attend a concert or
other entertainment after dinner.
Being familiar with the language of the country is a big plus.

Thanks so much, Ekscrunchy! I've just stumbled over this luscious Trip Report. Made my day - and I'm looking forward to continuing with this one and finding your other TRs. Gracias!

Sounds like a wonderful day! The first time I went solo was in 2005 on my first trip to Italy. I remember that I wondered if I would feel uncomfortable eating dinner alone. That feeling lasted about ten minutes into my first dinner! Have never had a problem since. Travelling solo has two big advantages: You can do whatever you want to do whenever you want to do it and people are much more likely to talk to you if you're alone.

Traveling vicariously with Eks is such a treat!

I am thoroughly enjoying your report of this area of Spain. We have visited Spain twice so far: our first trip included Barcelona and Costa Brava, and our second trip included Madrid, Toledo, and Andalucia. I've been thinking about Cadiz and Jerez lately; they sound enchanting as you describe. I would also love to visit Extremadura and combine it with Cadiz. Not sure if we will do that. We prefer to visit countries we've never visited, and at our ages that means we may not be able to re-visit Spain. Depends on how long our health holds up. Anyways, for now, I can visit Cadiz province through your reports. I hope you can post more photos!

Enjoying your TR! Clearly we have a lot left to explore in Spain.

And so close to Sanlucar, Barbate, Zahara de los Atunes, Cadiz, and El Puerto de Santa Maria. Best sherry in the world, best tapa and gorgeous beaches that go for miles with very few crowds. Bolonia beach and Roman ruins.