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Eight days exploring and eating in Naples, Paestum and Rome

Eight days exploring and eating in Naples, Paestum and Rome

May 7th, 2012, 10:43 AM
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me 2!
yestravel is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Well, you know what I'm going to say!!! (Me, 3!!)
ekscrunchy is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Funny, I was just looking at your Naples at Night section and was about to say, "You know, if you liked Naples, you really should visit Palermo."

But then I saw you've been and you did enjoy it.

I haven't been to Naples since I was a young (young) lady. Your report and photos are making me think that it's time to plan a return.
Leely2 is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Wow! Thanks for all the lovely comments.

Eks-We went to Turkey the first week in April (it was amazing) and I'm not sure yet of the next destination (hoping back to Cambodia).

Debs, yes, we adored Istanbul.I would return in a heartbeat.

jmct714-Thanks! I'd really like to go to Puglia too!

LCI- you and your mom need to go for sure. You would love it, I think.

For those of you waiting on the food, soon, soon. But first, a day trip to Herculaneum...
Kristina is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 06:50 PM
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Day trip to Herculaneum

Many people who stay in Naples make a point to visit to Pompeii during their time there. And if you haven’t been, you should go. It’s an easy 35 minute train ride and well worth the trip.
But Pompeii isn’t the only place time stood still in 79 AD. Herculaneum is Pompeii’s lesser known (but still fascinating) stepsister in volcanic disaster.

Herculaneum was a seaside town filled with the vacation villas of wealthy Romans in 79 AD. When Mount Vesuvius erupted, smothering Pompeii in ash, the residents of Herculaneum were killed not by ash, but by the poisonous gasses which spewed out from the volcano. The town itself was covered by more than 20 meters of mud which dried as hard as concrete.
This has made the excavations much more difficult and as a result, slower, and the area uncovered is much smaller than Pompeii.
I think this makes visiting the site much easier and more “user-friendly”. While you could easily spend an entire day here, exploring all the nooks and crannies of buildings, we spent about half a day and were back in Naples for a late lunch. Today much of the ancient city still exists beneath the modern day city of Ercolano and is yet to be excavated.

To get to Erculano from Naples take the Circumvesuviana Line from the Naples termini station. You will need to buy a separate ticket. At the time we went the tickets cost 2.10 euro each way. Follow the signs in the station and buy your ticket before you go down to where the trains are. The train was surprisingly crowded and we stood for most of the ride. Keep a firm grip on your belongings as this line is notorious for pickpockets. Make sure you get off at the Ercolano Scavi stop. This trip is easy and you can certainly do it without a tour.

When you get to the town, it’s a straight shot from the station to the entrance to the ruins, about 6 blocks down the main street. We took our time, stopping for a quick espresso along the way. I also noticed there was a nice looking museum, but it was closed on the day we were there. The ruins at Herculaneum are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Take a tour through Herculaneum via photos with me here:

If you are at all interested in Herculaneum, I recommend reading through the captions on the photos and some of the first comments on the page. My sister-in-law, who is a classics professor added some additional "color" about what we saw there.

There are also some good resource links for visiting Herculaneum at the bottom of the page with the photos.
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May 7th, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Restaurants in Naples, Italy

I have a personal rule regarding restaurants; I’ll never willingly wait in line to eat for more than half an hour. I simply refuse to buy into the hype that any restaurant is worth waiting an hour or more for when there are plenty other great places out there.
So it’s with this rule that I now must admit that I committed foodie heresy in Naples: I did not eat pizza in one of the famous pizzerias. That’s not to say I didn’t eat pizza, just I just didn’t have any at Da Michele, Gino Sorbillo, di Matteo, or any of the other places with long lines and hour plus wait times. And I’m ok with this really, because we still ate very well in Naples as evidenced by our experiences below.

Antica Port’Alba

This place, located across from Piazza Bellini and underneath the archway leading to the street connecting to Piazza Dante was somewhere we ate at twice and had vastly different service experiences each time, though the food was consistently good.

We ended up here on our first night in Naples with me, jetlagged and ticked off because I’d forgotten to print out my researched list of restaurants and no way to access the info without working internet. Yes, I actually forgot them!

We wandered around the area, looking at menus, searching for something which appealed and wasn’t too touristy. Finally, we gave in and sat down in Antica Port’Alba’s patio under heat lamps. Our waiter was pleasant and brought us menus in both Italian and English.

Wrecked from not sleeping for almost 30 hours by this point, I ordered my old standby, Penne alla Arribiata, pasta in a spicy tomato sauce. This is one of those classic dishes by which you can judge a restaurant. It’s simple, but they have to get it right and fortunately, they did.
Mom had a very tasty Fettuccine with Porcini mushrooms in a cream sauce, but the stars of the meal were the contorni (vegetables) we ordered. The first was a side of escarole, sauteed with anchovies, capers, and black olives, served warm. This dish was absolutely fantastic, all the salty additions contrasted so nicely with the bitter greens. We also had spinach sauteed with chunks of garlic, olive oil and lemon which, while served surprisingly cold, was still very tasty. Finally, the house red wine was shockingly good.
Our meal was about 40 euro total, and when the waiter presented us with the check he made sure to say not once, not twice, but three times that service was not included and that there was “no tip for the boys” included in the check. Sigh. It’s stuff like that which can really be a turn off as a tourist. I mention this because Italians rarely tip, and if they do it’s small. A waiter would never say something like this to a local and if you don’t believe me, keep reading.

The next night we met up with the lovely Bonnie from www.NapoliUnplugged.com (excellent resource for all things Naples, go there) and her charming husband for drinks in Piazza Bellini. Afterward, they suggested we go have dinner and Bonnie said there was a restaurant nearby she’d been meaning to try. Wouldn’t you know, it was Antica Port’Alba.

This time we ate inside, upstairs, with Bonnie who has lived in Naples for 6 years, doing most of the discussion and ordering in Italian with our server.
I ordered pizza “DOC” with tomatoes, basil and local buffalo mozzarella. It was good, but it did not rock my world. Mom had Pasta Siciliana (which is essentially alla Norma with eggplant and we had another order of the escarole which was just as good this time. There was more food on the table and everyone seemed to enjoy it, though I can’t remember what it was (another pizza, pasta vongole, etc). We drank more of the house red wine and a fantastic grappa called Grappa 903 Barrique. I liked this grappa, and I usually think grappa tastes like gasoline.
A good time was had by all, even our waiter who chatted at length with us (in Italian with Bonnie translating), regaling us with stories of his large family (12 kids), saying when he was a kid his father “didn’t watch TV for a decade because he was too busy in bed with his mother.” Yes, really. At the end of the meal there were more complimentary rounds of grappa and there was no mention of tipping or service charge. The meal was about 90 euro for 4 people.

Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, Via Port’Alba, 18, 80134 Napoli, 081 459713 http://www.anticapizzeriaristoranteportalba.com/
Kristina is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 07:47 PM
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More Naples restaurants...

Hostaria Toledo

Sunday lunches are big in Italy. Both in restaurants and at home, families gather to eat a big meal at Sunday lunch. This was very clear to us at Hostaria Toledo, where, as we ate, the restaurant filled to capacity with families.

We arrived around 12:30 and they were still mopping the floor. They asked us to come back at 1pm when they opened. We obliged by walking around the Spanish Quarter and checking out a few other restaurants “just in case” but ended up back at Hostaria Toledo.

We ordered a very simple lunch to share; octopus salad, grilled eggplant, and an order of carne al ragu, plus a half bottle of Tufuceo red wine from Ischia and a bottle of sparking water.

I can easily say the octopus salad was one of the best I’ve ever had. It was perfectly cooked and tender, sweet, and nicely seasoned with lemon juice and olive oil. It was a generous portion for 10 euro.
The eggplant was not my favorite because it was sliced so thin, then grilled and marinated, that it was chewy and charred and almost too tough to cut, but the meat was good. I would return for the octopus salad alone. While eating our lunch, we watched big platters of fried food (mixed vegetables and seafood) go out to the tables filled with families for their Sunday meal and I’d try one of those next time because they looked amazing. Lunch was 34 euro.
***Highly recommended
Hosteria Toledo, Vico Giardinetto, 78, 80132 Naples, 081 421257, www.hosteriatoledo.it

Ristorante Al 53

This place is right on Piazza Dante and we went for lunch after visiting Herculaneum. They have a 10 euro lunch special menu which includes a pasta or soup, main course, vegetable side, wine and water. The restaurant is lovely inside with lots of light, pale yellow walls and white table cloths. Oh, and they have free wifi too (just ask for the password)!

My pasta was large tubes mixed with buffalo mozzarella and tomato sauce. Heavy, but really tasty. Mom had a local speciality of pasta made with garbanzo bean flour. She liked it (I didn’t). She had a mixed fried fish plate and I had pork cutlets and with mixed marinated vegetable antipasti for our side. All together, an obcene amount of food for 10 euro each.

Al 53, Piazza Dante, 53, 80134 Naples Free wifi.

La Stanza del Gusto

This place gets a lot of excellent recommendations on chowhound.com so perhaps we had high expectations. We went here for dinner on our last night in Naples. The menu is attempting modern and creative Italian food, but in the end my impression was that they were trying too hard and not able to deliver.

I ordered “breaded eggplant with ricotta and vegetables” and while the inside was ok, basically ricotta and vegetables, the outside was a hard and tasteless cornmeal crust.
My mother ordered “Potato Eggplant Pie” which showed up as a brick, again coated in a hard cornmeal crust. The inside was basically just mashed potatoes with about a tablespoon of ratatouille. It was 95% potato with essentially no eggplant.

She ate about a third of it and asked for a menu, ordering a grilled vegetable plate. Our server asked if she was done, took her plate, and never asked if she was happy with the “pie” or why she did not eat all of it and was asking for something else. They brought the vegetable plate, which I cannot even begin to describe because there were so many components, but it wasn't very good.

In the end, this place was a disappointment with over-wrought food and indifferent service. We should have ordered the salumi platter and wine and probably would have been happier.

La Stanza del Gusto, Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, 100, 80135 Naples, 081 401578 www.lastanzadelgusto.com Free wifi (but we could not get it to work)
Kristina is offline  
May 7th, 2012, 08:03 PM
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And the last of our Naples restaurant experiences...

Ristorante Mattozzi Europea

Our plan had been to eat at Osteria La Chitarra that night. Using a route plotted by Google Maps, we walked from the apartment though what turned out to be some sketchy alleyways, only to find a closed restaurant. At that point, we remembered Bonnie’s husband had recommended a place which was fairly close by, Ristorante Mattozzi Europea, so we walked there.

We found a warm and inviting place, walls covered with copper cookware, old paintings, ceramic dishes and a large mirror.

We ordered a light meal from the man who appeared to be the owner; seafood salad, caprese salad and polpette with ragu. While we waited for our food, I eavesdropped on the two men sitting next to us. One was describing Neapolitan cuisine to the other, in Spanish, and I realized I could understand almost everything he was saying! A moment later, I figured out why; he was speaking slowly and clearly because he was Italian and Spanish wasn’t his first language (his dining companion was from Spain, by his accent). It was odd to listen to someone speak Spanish, but with a Italian accent.

When the food came, the caprese was a single large ball of the incredible local mozzarella, ripe cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves.
The seafood salad arrived with the squid and shrimp still warm, and while that was unexpected it was good (though not as good as Hostaria Toledo).
The polpette were two large meatballs covered in ragu with a slightly smokey flavor. They were made from veal, and clearly had a fair amount of breadcrumbs and cheese mixed in (perhaps the cheese was smoked?). With a glass of wine, water and a 5 euro service charge, dinner was 43 euro.

Ristorante Mattozzi Europeo, Via Campodisola Marchese, 4, 80133 Napoli, 081 552 1323

La Cantina di Via Sapienza

La Cantina is popular with locals who come in for a leisurly lunch and with doctors and med students (as evidinced by the scrubs) from a nearby hospital who come in for food to go. The place is family run; the owner gave us our menus and took our order while mama stood eagle-eyed on thick ankles (I wanted to make her sit down and rest) watching both the kitchen and the dining room and dishing up items from the antipasti case. The menu is very reasonable with items starting at 3 euro and nothing over 9 euro.

We ordered pasta e zucca (pasta with pumpkin) which arrived considerately split on two plates, grilled sausages, and a large mixed antipasta plate. The food is home style and everything we tasted was very good. The restaurant is only a few blocks from the Archaeological Museum and would be a great place for lunch before or after a visit. I would definitely return. Our lunch, with a quartino of wine and bottle of water was 22 euro.

La Cantina de Via Sapienza Via della Sapienza, 40/41, 80138 Naples, www.cantinadiviasapienza.it I’ve read they are only open for lunch but neither their web site nor menu confirms this. Free wifi!

Photos from all these meals are here:
Kristina is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 03:07 AM
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Way to go, Kristina! That nugget about Port 'Alba says a lot, doesn't it?

Did you hear that Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo had a terrible fire?

I'm getting hungry here waiting for more, and I will be waiting for our jaunt to Turkey, once you get that posted on your blog.
ekscrunchy is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 05:13 AM
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eks-Yes, I heard about Sorbillo. We walked by there one night and there was a HUGE line (part of what inspired those comments).
I'm going to do my best to get Turkey completed in a more timely manner.

For those interested in photos of the accommodations, those went up today:
Kristina is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 05:37 AM
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bardo1 is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 05:42 AM
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You're making me very hungry! Thanks for so much helpful info. On the train from Naples to Paestum, did u buy the ticket the same day or in advance? I guess u can also get it as part of the Campania ArteCard? haven't really read up on that yet.
yestravel is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 06:54 AM
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yestravel-We bought the tickets from the Naples train station the day before, but didn't need to. In fact, we didn't buy those tickets from the regular ticket counter, but from one of the Tabac stores in the station. They were about 6 euro each.
Kristina is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Paestum? What’s that?

When I told people I was going to Italy on this trip, they almost always asked me “Oh, where in Italy?” My guess is that the expected reply was “Venice” or “Tuscany” but when I said “Naples, Pasteum and Rome” I’d be willing to bet not one of them (save my sister-in-law, the classics professor) had ever heard of Paestum, let alone been there.

Paestum is known for two things; for its fantastic archaeological Greek temple ruins, and as the home to buffalo mozzarella.
It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was often a stop on “Grand Tour” of 18th century travelers. Many people visit here as a day trip from Naples or the Amalfi Coast. Our plan was to spend 2 nights there, visiting the museum and ruins on our first day, and on day two, see a local buffalo mozzarella farm and the nearby town of Agropoli.

A fairly short train ride whisked us from Naples to Paestum for about 6 euro each. Sit on the left side of the train for a view of Mt. Vesuvius and on the right for Bay of Naples views.

If you go from Naples by train, and intend on returning through Naples, buy your return tickets in Naples as there is no open ticket booth at the Paestum train station.
You can buy the return tickets from a local bar, as we did, but this was a bit of a fiasco because they actually ran out of tickets and sold us 3 sets of tickets totaling the trip cost in lieu of a single ticket. Our hotel was horrified and traded us tickets belonging to one of their workers. If you are coming from the Amalfi Coast, it is easiest by car, though there may be bus service.

There is not much “town” to Paestum, it’s more of a crossroads with a major monument attached. But it would be home for the next two days and we were determined to make the most of it. After checking into our hotel, il Granaio de Casabella (see above), we walked over to the town, about 2 blocks away. The street which leads up to the ruins is filled with tour buses, trinket shops, and a few restaurants and ATM machines. In the center of it, is the old town square with a church, the tourist information office and the public water fountain.
Kristina is offline  
May 8th, 2012, 04:31 PM
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Paestum's Archaeological Museum and Ruins

Next to the square is the National Archaeological Museum of Paestum which we decided to visit before the ruins to hopefully give us a sense of time and place. If you are planning on visiting the ruins on the same day, buy a combo tickets and save some euros.

The museum was a pleasant surprise and much larger than I expected. There are two floors. Make sure you go upstairs to see the artifacts used in daily life. There are the pre-requesite carvings and statues, some from the pediments of the temples across the street, but the most interesting (in my opinion), was a large room filled with the fresco painted slabs of stone which were once the walls of tombs. The displays were also well marked with descriptions in English.

After the museum we walked over to the ruins. We were blessed with beautiful weather and not too many tourists (though we did our best to avoid a large group of German pensioners). The space is quite large and while you can’t get up and inside the large temples, you can tromp 'round the side streets and check out the old mosaic floors of houses which still remain.

There are two entrances to the archaeological zone, one across from the museum, and one at the southwest end of the site. The first temple you see as you enter near the museum is the Temple of Athena.

Oasi Ristorante and Pizzaria

On our first day we had a late lunch at Oasi, on the road leading to the ruins and museum. This place is huge and must be jam packed in the summer, but was almost empty when we were there. In fact, it seemed like most of the dining options in town were closed for the season.
We shared a pizza topped with local buffalo mozzarella and zucchini flowers which was excellent, and at 10 euros a bargain. We ate here again, the next night and each had simple but delicious pastas; one with vegetables and pancetta, and the other, with tomatoes, basil and quite possibly the mozzarella we’d seen made only hours before on one of the local farms.

To see photos from the museum, of Paestum's temples and ruins, and of that pizza with zucchini flowers (omg), go here:
Kristina is offline  
May 10th, 2012, 07:50 PM
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Hi- Sorry to go MIA for a few days but we had a pet medical emergency. I want to mention as a Public Service Announcement.
One of my cats ate a part of a lily flower which had fallen on the floor. We didn't know, but lilies are highly toxic to cats and if not caught in time, will cause kidney failure and death.
Fortunately, my cat threw it up, partially digested and we noticed the flower. I looked it up online, panicked, and we took him to the vet ER in the middle of the night. After 48 hours on an IV (and a bunch of other treatments) he is finally home and seems ok.
I've had cats my entire life and had no idea most lilies are toxic to cats. From now on I will investigate any plant or flower I bring into my house.
End PSA.
Kristina is offline  
May 10th, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Of Buffalo Mozzarella and the Kindness of Strangers

One of the reasons we went to Paestum, besides the incredible ruins, was to visit the birthplace of buffalo mozzarella and hopefully see how it’s made. The day before we’d attempted to visit Vannulo dairy and arrived in late afternoon only to discover there were no tours (sometimes, but only in the morning) and saw nary a buffalo. I had to console myself with some chocolate gelato made with buffalo milk (really good).

The next morning we set out on foot from our hotel to visit another local dairy, Masseria Lupata Barlotti. The walk was about half a mile along a two lane road with not much shoulder. We tromped though the long grass at the side of the road, past fallow fields, as cars whizzed by. About half way there, a woman in a very small car stopped and asked us, in Italian, where we were going. We told her “to the farm” and she motioned for us to get in. My Italian is minimal, but she made it clear it was not safe for us to be walking along the road. She dropped us at the driveway to the farm amid many “molto grazie”. My mother and I were surprised at her generosity, but not as surprised as when the exact same thing happened on our walk back to the hotel.

This time, we’d only walked about 30 feet when another tiny car pulled over and a different woman insisted that she give us a ride. We thanked her and got in. Again, she spoke no English but we figured out what she was saying, “You would do it for me.” I was stunned. And honestly I was not sure I would, back home in Los Angeles, where we never pick up hitchhikers, let alone stop and offer rides to strangers. She dropped us right in front of the hotel.

Fast forward three months later and I’m about 2 blocks from home when an older woman flags me down at a stop sign. She asks if I will give her a ride up the hill, a few blocks past my street. I hesitate, (this is an unusual request in my neighborhood and I don’t know her) and then I think back to the women who so kindly stopped for us in Paestum, unasked. I say “sure” and let her in, taking her uphill, past a curve dangerous for any pedestrian, to where she needs to go. Pay it forward.

Back at the farm, we walk up the driveway and straight ahead is a two story stone faced building. In the bottom, behind a series of French doors, is the area where the cheese is made. It did not seem as if traditional “tours” were given, but we were free to stand there in the open doors and watch the process as long as we liked.

To see photos of how they make the mozzarella, go here:

After watching the cheese being made, we walked up the driveway around the building to the back. There we found a little shop selling all the various buffalo milk products including smoked mozzarella and butter. We were each given a small bocconcini of smoked mozzarella to taste. It was good, but for me, too strong to be eaten plain and would have been much better melted into a pasta or pizza.
Kristina is offline  
May 11th, 2012, 05:26 AM
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I loved reading about the kindness of strangers and how you paid it forward!
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May 11th, 2012, 05:36 AM
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Agropoli, Italy

So you’ve never heard of Agropoli? Don’t fret, neither had I until I started researching the region around Paestum. Because we had not rented a car for this trip, we needed to go some place on our second day which was easy to reach by bus. The lovely woman who runs the front desk at our hotel confirmed that Agropoli would fit the bill; it was close, easy to reach by bus and had a castle.

After our trip to see how mozzarella was made, we headed off to the bus stop in front of the bar/gelateria at the intersection close to the northwest end of the ruins. Most bars sell bus tickets and we bought our return tickets inside for about 3 euro each way. The bus arrived later than scheduled and while we waited in the bright mid day sun, we were the object of interest of the regulars who hang out in front of the bar (my guess is, daily). I also found that they sell the very same amaro which got my husband hooked so many years ago. We’d both forgotten it came from Campania and I vowed to buy a bottle to bring home to him. The bus finally arrived and it took about 40 minutes to get to Agropoli, some of the road along the beautiful coastline.

We really had no idea where to get off the bus, so we asked the driver and were dropped in center of town, where we set off to try and to find some sort of tourist information center. We followed the signs to the “Info Point” but the kiosk was closed with a note pinned to it saying to go to the local municipal building.

After asking the school age daughter of a local cafe owner (she spoke a little English, mom did not) we figured out the municipal building was the large peach colored building just off the square. So we went inside, up 2 flights of stairs, down a corridor, into an empty office to find a map and brochures. Someone finally showed up and she actually seemed thrilled to see tourists in her office (probably a very infrequent occurrence). She gave us a map and a bunch of colorful brochures and we set off in search of the historical center of town, a short walk away.
Kristina is offline  
May 11th, 2012, 05:37 AM
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We used the map to find our way uphill to the castle which turned out to be closed. Still, it was a nice walk and at lunch time there were lots of locals with their kids on lunch break out and about.

At the top of the steps in the above photo, we came to the cross below and then the outer walls of the castle. Because it is at the top of a hill, it was easily defended from invaders.

Through the castle walls is the beautiful old Chiesa Santa Maria di Constantinopoli. It was closed, so we could not go inside, but the outside was pretty and had lovely old bronze doors (see photos).

From the piazza in front of the church is a gorgeous view of the Agropoli marina.

We continued to walk uphill, following the signs to the castle. The streets are so narrow I don’t think any cars can go up from this side (though there is a road on the other side of the castle). Along the way, we came across this little passageway. We didn’t know exactly what it was, but there were a bunch of woven grass mats attached to the ceiling. Later, I noticed a similar photo in the glossy brochure the tourist office gave us, but all the caption said was U’ Suricin. There is a restaurant there with that name, so perhaps this is their entrance.

Finally we found the castle and it was closed. I suppose we could have checked this before we came all the way here, but we weren’t that disappointed because we just enjoyed the wander.

At the top of the hill was an ancient apartment building overlooking the back of the castle. There we met a friendly black and white tomcat. About 20 feet away, on the steps of another building were 3 curious kittens. They weren’t as friendly as old Tom, but certainly were adorable. Tom escorted us all the way back down the hill to the castle gate in front of the church, where he stopped and curled up on the street. Clearly he’s a local and this is his turf.

Down the hill, we found a place for a late lunch of pasta with clams and a disappointing bread salad, and then hurried to catch our bus at the stop where we’d been told to wait for the trip back.

Unfortunately the departure time for the bus came and went. Many buses passed by the stop, but none going to Paestum. After asking passersby, going back to the original stop where we had been dropped off, back to the municipal office, talking to other bus drivers and a very old man running a fruit stand who attempted to draw us a very complicated map, we got 6 different answers regarding where to go and what to do. The language barrier (ours) was definitely an issue here and it quickly became a comedy of errors.

In the end, after an hour of waiting and walking in circles we finally figured it out; our bus, for which we’d already bought the ticket, did not come to this stop for another hour. If we wanted to use the tickets we’d already bought, and not wait, we’d need to go about half a mile away to the road leading out of town to a different bus stop. So we walked, and walked, and walked, finally reaching the stop about 5 minutes before the bus arrived. It was an adventure, a little frustrating and tiring, but we enjoyed our time in Agropoli and would definitely return.

Photos of Agropoli, the Castle and the Kitties here: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2012/0...gropoli-italy/
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