Eating our way round Devon (and Cornwall)
 

Our annual visit to Plymouth usually has more good weather days than poor but this year the summer started well but, as soon as the schools broke up, the weather seemed to deteriorate. What else to do but eat and drink?

Since picking up the reprint of ‘Through the Window- the Great Western Railway journey from Paddington to Penzance”( first published in 1924 ) from the shelf on an earlier visit to my sister and brother-in-law’s house in Plymouth, I’d thought of following the Reading to Plymouth section when I next visited.
"Through The Window" illustrates the journey of the "Cornish Riviera Express", which departed from Paddington at 10.30 every morning (holding the world record for the longest daily "non-stop" train, London to Plymouth, for more than 22 years). This guide breaks the journey into eight main sections, each then divided every six miles of the line. These divisions are detailed by an accurate description opposite a map, and each of these illustrated by three charming pen-and-ink sketches. There have, of course, been changes in the last 86 years, but the track and its details remain. Vegetation now conceals many of the views, and housing estates cover many former meadows but following the descriptions certainly made the journey pass very quickly. The announcements from the buffet car also made me smile. ‘Hello everyone, this is Christine your buffet car attendant speaking’ (in a Welsh accent rather like Gladys in ‘Hi De Hi’). Christine tried three times to inform us that the buffet car would be closing ‘temporarily’ without stumbling over her words. Then a man took over and tried again adding his own rider “If you come to the buffet car you will not be served so await further announcements!”
As the train left Reading station it was as though someone had flicked a switch as passengers throughout the compartment felt an urgent need to communicate by mobile phone that they ‘were on the train’.

well, bellini, you are certainly taking a different appoach to a trip report. I too treasure some of the announcements you get on what used to be BR - my favourite being the guard who told us, as we were approaching clapham junction, "change here for the boat train and all stations to Dover, then Paris, Lille, Geneva and Rome"; he was still listing the places we could get to as we drew into Waterloo.

looking forward to more!

Thursday was rather a dull day with low cloud and drizzle. We decided to visit the Garden House which I had visited earlier in the year when all the Spring bulbs were in flower. August’s theme was ‘hot colours’- orange heleniums, shocking pink dahlias and yellow daisies, tempered by ice blue hydrangea petiolaris and a white (almost pale green) hydrangea. Trying to remember the name of one flower, my sister and I went through all the flowering plants we could think of beginning with ‘A’ but it was only an hour or so later that the name suddenly popped into my head ‘Astrantia”. Strange how that happens!
At the ‘Two Bridges Inn’ between Princetown and Postbridge high on Dartmoor, the low cloud could only be described as glowering. We checked that we could get a cream tea later after our proposed walk on to the moor to Wistmans Wood, a wood of dwarf sessile oak trees cloaked in mosses, lichens and ferns.

I had seen a similar wood on a BBC programme called ‘Secret Britain” which looked magical. Wistmans will have to wait for better conditions as, when only about half a mile along the track, heavy rain began and we were soon soaked so returned to the Two Bridges. The hotel lounge area with large comfy sofas was already full with families kept indoors by the inclement weather. We were taken through into the dining room where a large table in the bay window meant we could gaze out at horizontal rain whilst consuming excellent scones with jam and clotted cream.

The cloud was still down and heavy showers broke out as we headed across Dartmoor the next morning. We passed Postbridge with its ancient clapper bridge crossing the swollen stream. Its proximity to a car park means that most days there are numerous tour buses parked up and people jostling for position for their photo of the bridge. Not today! There was no-one around!
We were heading for the small town of Chagford and suddenly the mist and cloud disappeared and we saw blue sky! Chagford is one of the original four stannary towns where tin miners brought their metal for assaying and stamping. There’s a small square in the centre of town and we spotted the Birdcage Café with an old but perfectly preserved Morris Minor parked outside. The Café has a bohemian vibe and you must not be in a rush as service is pleasant but by no means hurried. But, we were on holiday so we relaxed and enjoyed the ambience. Graham, one of the owners, in orange stripy shirt, shorts and large pinny (apron) took our order. I chose the Italian summer platter. A family had arrived in the meantime with two boys, the younger of whom couldn’t find anything he liked on the blackboard menu. Graham offered him dry bread or, if he preferred, a jam sandwich!
When my summer platter arrived it was an appetizing array of rocket, shaved Parmesan, mozzarella, tomatoes and delicious warm cubes of rosemary focaccia. The café prides itself on its use of fresh local ingredients and excellent coffee. I think it lived up to its aim.
For such a small town it’s surprising to see not just one, but two, large ironmongers and right next door to each other. Webbers and Bowdens are both a treasure trove for all those little and large things you never knew you needed!! From orange peelers, to compost bins, from tin trays to electric kettles, sunbeds to marbles you’ll find it here.
Before leaving the town we had to check out the local pool which is an open air, river fed public pool. The temperature of the water is maintained with solar pool covers. I am not a swimmer but, in the warm sunshine, (yes really) it did look very attractive.
We were on our way to Castle Drogo near Drewsteignton. I had last visited the castle 33 years ago. I can be very precise about the year as I was pregnant with my first child and was feeling quite poorly on the day we were at Castle Drogo. That night I ended up in hospital where I spent the rest of my holiday. Fortunately there was no harm to the baby and we now have a 32 year old son to prove it!
Castle Drogo was originally built between 1910 and 1930 for Julius Drewe, a self-made millionaire whose chain of Home and Colonial Stores enabled him go into semi-retirement in 1899 at the age of 33.

Dramatically situated above the Teign Gorge, the castle is a granite fortress and has been called 'the last castle to be built in England' by historians.
The architect was Sir Edwin Lutyens, considered by many to be one of the great British architects. The final result was a scaled down version of Lutyens’ original design but is nevertheless very striking. There are extensive gardens too but, guess what, it was raining so we were unable to do them justice, taking refuge instead in the National Trust’s excellent tea shop.

Bellini, if you'd like to know of a magical wood in north Cornwall, google St Nectan's Glen. I've posted here about it once or twice, but it truly is a special secret place that not too many people have come across.

I watched that episode of Secret Britain, and half expected St Nectan's Glen to get a mention, yet wasn't surprised when it didn't.

Thanks for the tip, Julia_t. Will look St Nectan's up for our next visit to the glorious South West :)

Lunch the next day was at one of my favourite places The Devon Guild of Crafts in the Riverside Mill at Bovey Tracey. The restaurant was full when we arrived but we caught a table from a family just leaving then made our selection from the daily specials. I chose spinach, leek and walnut pie with salad. The pie was warm with an excellent crust and stuffed full of vegetables. On to Moretonhampstead (which has the distinction of having the longest one word place name in England (England, note! Go to North Wales for an even longer place name). A railway used to run from Newton Abbot up the picturesque Teign Valley which the GWR (Railway company) advertised as ‘Little Switzerland’. The granite church is of 15th century origin had monuments in the porch dedicated to French officers captured durng the Napoleonic Wars and paroled to the town from Princetown prison on Dartmoor. Inside there is a stained glass window dedicated to the local doctor depicting St Luke but also cricket wickets and a football goal- perhaps the only ecclesiastical window to do so?
Moretonhampstead was also the birthplace of George Parker Bidder born 1806 who was known as ‘The Calculating Boy’. At the age of 7 he could barely read but it took him 15 seconds to work out the number of farthings (4 to an old penny) in £367,548. No calculators in those days! He toured the country as a child prodigy and was presented to Queen Charlotte, wife of George III.
An early example of tax avoidance is portrayed by the sculpture of sparrowhawk high on the wall of the Parish Office. Dating back to the 12th century the annual feee payable to the king was an unmewed i.e. untrained sparrowhawk. By the mid 13th century most parishes had converted such arrangements to an annual cash payment, a tax known as the Knight’s Fee. Moretonhampstead continued to provide just one sparrowhawk until 1428.
A large beech tree known as the Dancing Tree has replaced an earlier elm tree. It was around the original tree that the village lads and lasses would dance. The French Officers paroled here also played music for dancing. In 1801, a witness to such an event wrote the following;
"The Cross Tree floored and seated around, with a platform, railed on each side, from the top of an adjoining wall to the tree, and a flight of steps in the garden for the company to ascend. After passing the platform they enter under a grand arch made of boughs. There is sufficient room for thirty persons to sit around, and six couples to dance, besides the orchestra".

Time for tea and my sister spotted the dartmoor Tearoom recommended by the Tea Guild. They had a menu of over 40 teas with accompanying cakes. I chose Devon Honey Cake which was warmed buttered slices of tealoaf full of cranberries and plums. Yummy! My husband chose the ‘cream tea’. Russell is a connoisseur of cream teas so it’s hard to find one that meets his exacting standards. This one did! 10/10.
It was raining again by the time we’d returned to the car but we drove back across the moor to sneak a look at Bovey Castle. The land that the prestigious hotel now occupies was bought by William Henry Smith (WH Smith, later to become Viscount Hambleden) in 1880. His son Frederick built the Manor House which was completed in 1907. The house was used as a convalescent home during the First World War and as a military hospital when war broke out again in 1939. From 1946 to 1983 it was returned to the Great Western Railway and re-opened as a hotel. The G.W.R. ad at the time described it as follows:
“The Manor House Hotel is ideally situated 700 feet above sea level and has its own grounds of 200 acres of park and pleasure lands. Central heating and electric lighting installed throughout. Trout fishing in the River Bovey. Tennis, croquet and bathing pool. 18 hole golf course. Winter terms 4, 5 , 6 or 7 guineas per week including meals, accommodation, baths, early morning and afternoon teas.”
The Hotel attracted a wide range of clientele including Joachim Von Ribbentrop, Hitler’s ambassador. He booked a whole floor for himself. his wife and a large number of servants and guards.

On to Moretonhampstead (which has the distinction of having the longest one word place name in England >>

what about Woolfardisworthy then??? also 16 letters. [though confusingly abbreviated to Woolsery on some road signs!]

Stand corrected, Ann!

A bright start to the day beckoned us seawards so we headed down to Falmouth in Cornwall. We stopped for morning coffee at Miss Peapod’s in a new development called Jubilee Wharf overlooking the River Fal in Penryn. A delightful spot. We then took a self guided walk around the hill top town of Penryn. It has a long history and used to be a thriving port trading in tin, fish and copper. It has more listed buildings than any other Cornish town and repays a visit. Time for lunch so we headed into Falmouth taking the ‘Park and Ride’ bus (there is also a PARK AND RIDE BOAT But it wasn’t operating on a Sunday). We found a nice little place in the main street with a large window overlooking the river. They made sandwiches to order and had a very complicated but satisfying way of choosing every part of the sandwich from an extensive list. Step 1 Choose which kind of bread or roll Step 2 Choose from five salads Step 3 choose the dressing Step 4 Choose the topping Step 5 Just eat it and enjoy! Highly recommended: ‘Annie’s Kitchen’.
After a little light shopping and a walk around the upper reaches of the town we decided to seek refuge from the cold wind and imminent rain by getting back to the car and having a short tour of the surrounding towns/villages. Helston did not look at its best in the gathering gloom. Famous for its annual Furry or Floral Dance held in May, Helston has a mixture of Georgian and Victorian architecture with the Monument dominating the end of the main street. It was built in 1834 in memory of a local man who saved many jobs in the tin-mining industry. On to Porth Leven where the harbour was built by French POWs during the Napoleonic Wars. By now the wind was whipping up the waves and the streets were deserted so we made for Constantine and the warmth and food provided by Trengilly Wartha. The effects of the winding lanes, thick mist and driving rain had made me feel car-sick. However the bustle of the busy pub soon revived me and I was very pleased with my choice of frittata. As a vegetarian I am often disappointed by the veggie option in pubs but this sweet potato, leek and blue cheese frittata was excellent.

By now the wind was whipping up the waves and the streets were deserted so we made for Constantine and the warmth and food provided by Trengilly Wartha. >>

aah, the wonderful Trengilly. it's amazing that it hasn't become a victim of its own success but despite changes of ownership, it still manages to deliver good food in style and comfort.

we found it only because we rented a house in nearby constantine when we first moved to cornwall - how did you find out about it, Bellini?

PS - did anyone tip you the wink about the constatine post office? an amazing array of high end wines and [allegedly] the biggest selection of whiskies west of Bristol. it's amazing that the whole population of constantine isn't alcoholic!

What a wonderful trip. thanks for sharing with us!

Trengilly Wartha is in the "Good Pub Guide" and my sister and husband had stayed there in the past.

The best day of the week turned out to be Monday 23rd August and my sister’s birthday. It hadn’t looked promising to start with but by the time we reached Wadebridge the skies were brightening. Anne was keen to take us for coffee to a little place called ‘Relish’ where a young man called Jack had won the National Barista Championship in 2009. We arrived to find the coffee shop closed due to staff illness! So we went just around the corner to The Orchard which also served a mean latte. After a sandwich lunch we headed for Padstow where we began a 7 mile walk around Trevose Head, a harsh granite headland pounded by the waves and book ended by lovely beaches at Trevone and along the Camel Estuary. Two pints of ‘Proper Job’ (ST Austell brewery) in the ‘Old London’ pub back in Padstow, followed by Rick Stein’s fish and chips helped revive us. Manchester City were beating Liverpool 2-0- all was right with the world!
Every year when staying in Plymouth we have a list of ‘things to do’ that can be carried over to the following year, if necessary. One of those intended days out was a trip to Dartmouth to take a boat up the river to Greenway. The house was the private holiday home of the famous writer of detective stories, Agatha Christie and her family. Mrs Mallowan (Agatha’s married name) owned the house from 1938-1959. During WW2 the house was requisitioned for the US Navy and became the Officers’ Mess for 10th U.S. Patrol Boat Flotilla preparing for D-Day. Greenway commands a high position above the beautiful River Dart and has extensive gardens and grounds going down to the river. Agatha Christie’s Poirot novel “Dead Man’s Folly’ is set in the grounds of Greenway and is instantly recognisable. Dastardly goings-on in the boathouse!!




In an endeavour to prevent the narrow lanes becoming congested the National Trust, who now own the house, encourage visitors to come by boat. So we caught the 12.45 boat from Dartmouth, booking timed tickets for the house at the small kiosk by the Harbour. But first we needed a shot of caffeine and the small café, Dart Cafe in Church Close (turn by “Moshulu shoes”) came up trumps with cheerful prompt service and an extra shot in the coffee plus an excellent chocolate brownie.
Back in Dartmouth we spent a pleasant hour or so wandering the old streets, watching the car ferry plying backwards and forwards between Kingswear and Dartmouth. The lower ferry from a slipway in the village of Dartmouth is one of three ferries. The ferry holds up to 8 vehicles and costs £3.30 each way. A tug hauls the vehicle holding ferry across the narrow stretch of river. Bayards Cove beyond the ferry slipway is the oldest surviving quay in Dartmouth and has a wealth of lovely old buildings including Morocco House and the Old Custom House of 1739. The Pilgrim Fathers put into Bayards Cove en route from Southampton to the New World. The pilgrims rested for a time and then set off on their epic journey in two ships “The Mayflower” and “The Speedwell” on 20 August 1620. About 300 miles off Lands End the Speedwell became unseaworthy according to the ship’s captain and both ships returned to Plymouth. The “Mayflower” then set sail alone to complete the journey to Cape Cod.
We ate in nearby Totnes- one of my favourite small Devon towns. The Steam Packet is right by the River Dart but it was not the sort of evening for sitting outside. We were happy to snuggle down in the cosy panelled bar and enjoy pints of Jail Ale for me and Otter for brother in law and husband whilst perusing the menu. We enjoyed hearty meals of home cooked food to round off our day.

Final instalment
Two reasonable days’ weather in one week- it was too much to hope that this could continue! Wednesday was dark and very wet. We decided that the only thing to do was to eat (and drink) some more to dispel the gloom! So we went to Tavistock via a roundabout moorland route where the mist was right down and even the sheep looked miserable! We made straight for Brown’s Hotel , a restored 17th century coaching inn, now a modern wine bar and brasserie. The only thing we all felt we needed was a bowl of hot soup – the butternut squash soup with delicious home made bread fitted the bill perfectly, followed by a pleasant half hour reading old copies of ‘Country Life’ over coffee and carrot cake on the squashy sofas in the bar.It was still raining as we did a quick perusal of the High Street shops where I bought a great shoulder bag for future travels.

We took refuge in the old church which is dedicated to an unusually named saint- not your usual St John, St Mark etc but a Saint Eustachius. Eustachius was a Roman General who became a Christian and was martyred for his beliefs. One of the most striking features inside was the tomb of Sir John Fitz and his wife Mary who lie side by side. Above them is the tiny kneeling figure of their son, another John Fitz, born 1605. This John had a reputation for rowdiness and drunken behaviour in Tavistock. He once challenged a Sir Nicholas Slanning to a duel and Sir Nicholas was killed. John went on the run but, whilst fleeing, he ‘accidentally’ killed two other men, believing them to be ‘the law’. In addition to this interesting tomb there is a Morris window with Burne-Jones figures although it is recorded that Burne-Jones was dissatisfied with his own work. On the wall of the bell tower there is an unusual object displayed. The church guide calls it an ophicleide, a brass musical instrument which would have been played from a gallery at the back of the church. The rain was literally belting down as we left the church. A local lady commiserated with us when she found out we were on holiday! Earlier we had bought local cheeses in Tavistock’s Pannier Market which we ate for our evening meal.





Our last day and we had booked ahead for a special lunch before we headed off up the A38 and home. Riverford Organic. Riverford started off in a small way delivering vegetable boxes to local households and now delivers to over 45,000 homes every week around the UK. The Field Kitchen at Riverford serves lunches and dinners using freshly picked organic vegetables from the farm. The dishes are served to tables of 8 and shared amongst the people at the table. We were served sweet potato gratin, French and runner beans in a mustard and pecan dressing, creamed sweetcorn, butternut squash salad with acidicated onion, and carrots with orange and ginger. The meat dish was duck with beetroot and puy lentils and the vegetarian option was courgette fritters. Every mouthful was a delight! The meat eaters even remarked that the meat seemed superfluous such was the lovely flavours of the vegetables. After a suitable pause we were invited up table by table to hear what the pudding choices were. There were 8 dishes ranging from sticky toffee pudding, baked custards with macerated black currants, apricot bread pudding, lemon tart, meringues and cheesecake. So hard to choose! I opted for the apricot bread pudding and was not disappointed !! It was simply delicious!
We needed to walk after all that food so we made for nearby Dartington and walked through the lovely gardens of the Hall until we felt able to drive home.

Bellini, what a wonderful report. You certainly have an eye for detail. Cornwall is on my wish list....

Needless to say I am now on a strict diet!

Thank you for posting all this. Looking forward to next year's report!

Riverford are wonderful. I've not eaten there, but I have a weekly veggie box delivered to my home - and often use their recipes. At Christmas I order lots of extras as well which are lovely to have around. I also have mini veggie boxes delivered to my daughters at two different university cities, which they look forward to each week.