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-   -   Eat cheap, drink cheap in Venice?? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/eat-cheap-drink-cheap-in-venice-669717/)

baemel Jan 12th, 2007 11:35 AM

Eat cheap, drink cheap in Venice??
 
Is it possible? I read posts about 20E for a pastry and cappicinno...?! I am sure there are tourist traps, but are there reasonable places to eat w/o spending a fortune (less than 15E a meal)? We aren't looking for anything formal... the italian "tappas" is right up our alley.. My husband and I love wine and trying new foods.

How are the wine prices at the wine bars? Are there local carafts of wine?

We ate the 1E souvlaki and 2E crepes for some meals in Greece as we walked around and hoping for some simular finds. I hate spending a ton of $ for a average meal....would rather spend it shopping. Please share your inexpensive experiences or budget secrets.

suze Jan 12th, 2007 12:35 PM

I'm no expert but have been to Venice a couple times.

I really enjoyed the ready-made sandwiches you can find in a glass case at many of the cafes. To sit and eat there or to take away (roast vegetables, sliced hard boiled egg and tomato, like that). I often stopped for a quick glass of cold white wine at the stand-up coffee bars around town throughout the day; I don't remember that being expensive.

There was a wine shop near my hotel, the clerk/owner kindly pointed me to a decent inexpensive white... then even gestured that he had one cold, and should he open it up for me? (I took it back to my hotel room).

I know this is vague but I definitely didn't ever pay 20 euro for a pastry & coffee! That said, I didn't have much great luck in regular restaurants either, mostly hafound kind of mediocre meals in tourist restaurants, but I hadn't researched much at all either.

judybarnes Jan 12th, 2007 12:35 PM

We did it in December in Venice, Florence, and Rome. for the 4 of us the average dinner was 62 E. We each ordered a starter or maybe two, and only two entrees. We shared everything. It was fun, we had plenty to eat, and room for gelato on the way home. The pizzas are always big enough to share, and the gnocchi too.

baemel Jan 13th, 2007 11:04 AM

I am sure we'll try to hit cafes and little places like the pizzaria's I've read about from other posts. We were wondering how pricey it really is... thanks

maryk Jan 13th, 2007 11:46 AM

The main tip in eating and drinking reasonably is to stay away from the tourist areas around San Marco and the Rialto and to remember that if you sit down at a table in a cafe you will always pay a huge amount more. Many of the cafes have a few bar stools to perch on, or just stand for you coffee etc. Reasonably priced and good food can be had in and around Campo Santa Margarita, and near the university area close by. A good place for lunch (sandwiches - the Venetian version) is Nomboli (cnr Calle Nomboli) near San Toma. We also had dinner quite often at Birraria in Campo San Polo

JoanneH Jan 15th, 2007 12:27 PM

MaryK
I have been to Venice many times but years ago. Any reasonable places you can tell me about near the San Angleo Vap stop?
Thanks

maryk Jan 17th, 2007 02:42 PM

Sorry - no. We tend to stay on the other side of the Grand Canal in San Polo when we visit, so my knowledge is better there! There do seem to be some nice looking local places around San Angelo though, and all'Angelo in Campo San Stefano is great & reasonably priced for lunch or a drink - albeit always very busy.

Kavey Jan 17th, 2007 02:51 PM

We visited for the second time in September last year (and before that, back in 2001) for about 6 days the first time and 5 this time.

We stayed near the San Toma stop and just near our guest house was a cafe/ bar which served snack food such as sandwiches and mini pizzas. Eating and drinking there was inexpensive, especially if one doesn't take a seat at one of the regular tables but stands at the bar or perches on a bar stool. They do some mini sandwiches which were about 1.5 Euro (you'd need at least two per person if not more) and coffees and soft drinks weren't outrageous though not as cheap as in other Italian cities and definitely not as cheap as Greece or Spain can be.

Hit out away from the tourist centres and look for the more casual bars and bistros.

Ask some of the locals you meet for genuine tips too - our guest house owner gave us some good and inexpensive recommendations in our area - remember locals are unlikely to want to spend as much as some tourists drop on a meal out.

LoveItaly Jan 17th, 2007 03:43 PM

I so wish I hadn't gotten rid of so much information that I had filed away.

baemel, you are being given good advice, get away from the heavy tourist area.

I have several friends in the region of Veneto (which Venice is part of). In Venice we do not eat at the expensive restaurants, we go to places that are out of the way, where few except for knowledeable visitors go to. I don't find the food in Venice as fantastic as other areas of Italy including the region of Veneto once one it outside of Venice but you can find good food that does not break the bank. And IMO wondering around Venice is what gives me the most joy since I have seen all of the "have to see" sights.

My only splurge when I am in Italy is a drink at Harry's Bar as it holds so many beautiful memories for me. No need for you to go there.

Wander throughout beautiful Venice and let your nose lead you, lol. Enjoy!!

dgg Jan 17th, 2007 07:06 PM

As you already know, Venice is full of expensive touristy restaurants. Although it's hard to find a bad meal in Italy, I would say our least memorable have been in Venice. We've only been there three times, but stayed in the Dorsoduro neighborhood each time. We ate almost every meal in that area and enjoyed a less touristy atmosphere. There are two large piazzas (one is very large) that are full of restaurants. It may be San Trovaso? I honestly can't remember. You will have to cross the Ponte dell' Accademia to get to the Dorsoduro. Once across, head to the right. Please don't ask me for directions!!! Ask some locals. In these two squares, there were local families and children playing soccer. Although not cheap, I would say the food is not the ridiculous prices you would pay on the other side of the Grand Canal. If you are willing to explore away from the Piazza San Marco, you will find the good sandwich shops for lunch. Pizza is a reasonably priced option for dinner.

One of the most famous restaurants in Venice is Locanda Montin, also in this area. It is on a small canal and hard to find, but most every local will be able to point you in the right direction. I haven't eaten there in several years, so I cannot attest to the quality lately, but it is known for being the place where all the celebrities go when they are in Venice. It's charming and the food is good. I don't remember it being horribly expensive, but it would make a good splurge night if you are going budget every other night.

kappa Jan 17th, 2007 11:58 PM

From my only experience, Locanda Montin was expensive for what you get. Also the waiter who served me was surly so I have no reason to return there. As Loveotaly says it would be rather a splurge. That was 6 years ago. I went there by recommendation by Pensione Accademia nearby where I was staying. Taverna San Trovaso, alos my hotel recomemnded, just across a small bridge from the hotel is a very popular inexpensive restaurant/pizzeria. Cost is half to 1/3 of Locanda Montin. Service is friendly and I have retunred many times. Salad/Pizza/Dessert/Coffee would cost about €20 but can be more if you take a meat or fish dish instead of pizza.

Another comparison between Locanda Montin (only based on my only experience there)and Taverna San Trovaso : Montin had a half litter house/caraf wine for maybe 10€ then, that was so bad I didn't finish it, that's rare for me. The honeymoon couple next to me must have thought the same I think, because after tasting the house wine they also had ordered, they asked for a full bottle and did not touch the caraf anymore. On the other hand, San Trovaso's house wine is perfectly acceptable and inexpensive. 1/4 litter is now 3€. I was there last Christmas, 3weeks ago.

I think Loveitaly knows it but there is only one Piazza in Venice, that's San Marco. Others are usually called Campo. Maybe she means Campo S.Margherita (large square surrounded by many cafes and restaurants - inexpensive, thanks to university students clientele) and Campo San Barnaba. Campo San Trovaso (that's where Chiesa San Trovaso is, I suppose) has no eateries. Just houses and one of the rare gondola repair shop nearby. There is a popular cichetti (venetian tappas)bar/wineshop Al Bottegon across the small canal though. Standing only. One cicchetti or one glass of wine costs about €1 - 1.50. When you are in the neighbourhood, it's a good place to know.

kappa Jan 18th, 2007 12:01 AM

Loveotaly, so sorry. I was reading through very quickly and mixed up your post and the one after. I have just realized I was actually referring to dgg's post.

LoveItaly Jan 18th, 2007 11:55 AM

That is OK kappa. Yesterday I posted on a wrong thread and even "talked" to the wrong poster. A Fodorite friend then suggested it was perhaps time for me to go to bed, lol. Take care.

beanweb24 Jan 18th, 2007 01:07 PM

My favorite budget breakfast is Rosa Salva. Their pastries are heavenly, as is the cappuccino. No seats - just stand at the bar and eat. 2 of you can have pastry and cappuccino for 6Euro total.

ripit Jan 18th, 2007 03:10 PM

Bacari are local back alley bars. Follow locals getting off work or ask around for some favorites. A glass of house red is around 1E and a carafe for around 4E . During the week most places offer plates of cichetti (sp?) that are like Spanish tapas. You can get a pretty good plateful for under 10E I think. They ususally start putting the food out around 6PM or so. The best stuff goes quickly so it is good to get an early start.

It's been a while since I've been to Venice (but am planning a return trip in June), so I am not sure my prices are up to date and I don't remember any names of places we visited (sorry). I believe most of the bars are closed on Sundays however. I don't think I've ever actually eaten a sit down meal in Venice, but some the Venice bar crawl is one of the things I am most looking forward to on our next trip.


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