Eastern Provence - first time visitor - can't-miss-cities or small towns?
Apr 8th, 2007, 08:13 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eastern Provence - first time visitor - can't-miss-cities or small towns?
A friend and I are planning a last-minute trip to Provence. Leave about April 30th, return May 9th, 8 days on the ground.
We're 40's'ish, lots of energy, interested in history, architecture, eating/drinking, and not cleaning toilets.
Have done a fair amount of reading, on these boards and guide books. A common theme on Fodor's for short hols like we're planning seems to avoid larger cities like Avignon, Argles and Aix-en-Provence (forget about Marseilles) with the Luberon towns the focus.
This feels like going to Italy as a first time visitor and not seeing Rome or Venice or Florence (a much bigger area obviously, but that's the comparison that comes to mind.)
For those who have travelled to this area, were you happy with your small town approach or did you kick yourself that you didn't see Avignon, Arles, etc.? Or, even better, please tell me how you juggled both approaches.
Thanks for your help.
We're 40's'ish, lots of energy, interested in history, architecture, eating/drinking, and not cleaning toilets.
Have done a fair amount of reading, on these boards and guide books. A common theme on Fodor's for short hols like we're planning seems to avoid larger cities like Avignon, Argles and Aix-en-Provence (forget about Marseilles) with the Luberon towns the focus.
This feels like going to Italy as a first time visitor and not seeing Rome or Venice or Florence (a much bigger area obviously, but that's the comparison that comes to mind.)
For those who have travelled to this area, were you happy with your small town approach or did you kick yourself that you didn't see Avignon, Arles, etc.? Or, even better, please tell me how you juggled both approaches.
Thanks for your help.
Apr 9th, 2007, 08:10 AM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>For those who have travelled to this area, were you happy with your small town approach or did you kick yourself that you didn't see Avignon, Arles, etc.?<<
How would someone know if they missed something special in these larger cities, if they never visited them??
I would not compare these Provence cities in any way with Rome, Venice, or Florence. Siena - perhaps, but I still prefer Siena. All of these Italian towns you listed are worth at least a 3 day visit - Rome longer. All the Provence cities you mentioned can easily be toured in less than 1 full day, IMO.
I would visit at least 1 of the Provence cities - Aix would be my choice, followed by Avignon. My wife prefers the shopping and architecture in Aix. Visit Aix on a Tues, Thurs, or Sat, spend time at the outdoor market, have lunch & people watch at Deux Garcons on the Cours Mirabeau (reserve ahead), then shop & follow the walking itinerary in the Michelin Green Guide after lunch.
Stu Dudley
How would someone know if they missed something special in these larger cities, if they never visited them??
I would not compare these Provence cities in any way with Rome, Venice, or Florence. Siena - perhaps, but I still prefer Siena. All of these Italian towns you listed are worth at least a 3 day visit - Rome longer. All the Provence cities you mentioned can easily be toured in less than 1 full day, IMO.
I would visit at least 1 of the Provence cities - Aix would be my choice, followed by Avignon. My wife prefers the shopping and architecture in Aix. Visit Aix on a Tues, Thurs, or Sat, spend time at the outdoor market, have lunch & people watch at Deux Garcons on the Cours Mirabeau (reserve ahead), then shop & follow the walking itinerary in the Michelin Green Guide after lunch.
Stu Dudley
Apr 9th, 2007, 08:21 AM
#3
I prefer Avignon for the same reasons and you will be closer to Arles and can walk across the bridge to see the village of Villneuve-lez-Avignon That has a very special garden, The Abbaye de Saint-André.
, that is considered the definitive Provençal garden. There's also a cloister garden next to the church of Chartreuse du Val-De-La-Bénédiction
, that is considered the definitive Provençal garden. There's also a cloister garden next to the church of Chartreuse du Val-De-La-Bénédiction
Apr 9th, 2007, 08:40 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would recommend a visit to Arles (UNESCO World Heritage Site) and Avignon (Papal Palace) as well as the Pont du Gard (Roman Aqueduct), Gordes, St Remy, Bonnieux, Rousillon, Les Baux & Isle sur Sorgue. These (and the Luberon) are in Western Provence, not Eastern Provence. Eastern Provence is more about the landscape than the villages. If you want history and architecture you should stick to the western part.
Visits to the places mentioned above will make a lovely 8 day trip. I would select two bases for you stay.
Visits to the places mentioned above will make a lovely 8 day trip. I would select two bases for you stay.
Apr 9th, 2007, 10:24 AM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No reason at all not to do both. We have guests all the time who spend a day driving around in the countryside visiting small hilltop villages. Then the next day in Aix. Then another in the Alpilles. The next one in Arles.
The two are not at all mutually exclusive - quite the contrary, it's nice to experience both sides of Provence.
-Kevin
The two are not at all mutually exclusive - quite the contrary, it's nice to experience both sides of Provence.
-Kevin
Apr 9th, 2007, 11:27 AM
#8
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think maybe some of what you've read about "avoiding" larger cities is based on actually *staying* in them. The B & B's in the smaller Luberon towns seem to be more highly recommended as far as accomodations go. The views... and also the ease of getting from one small hilltown to the next seems easier in smaller towns rather than staying in a large city.
My husband I will only have 5 full days in Provence and still plan on visiting both Pont du Gard/Avignon and Aix along with Isle sur La Sorgue, St. Remy, Les Baux, Gordes, etc.
And with 8 days you have plenty of time to do all of it!!
My husband I will only have 5 full days in Provence and still plan on visiting both Pont du Gard/Avignon and Aix along with Isle sur La Sorgue, St. Remy, Les Baux, Gordes, etc.
And with 8 days you have plenty of time to do all of it!!
Apr 9th, 2007, 12:40 PM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you, everyone, for your replies.
dgg, yes, as soon as I pressed "post" I realized my error re eastern and western Provence. Grrr. Thanks all for figuring out what I meant.
jen, I think you pinpointed my dilemma. I know this area of Provence is relatively small but driving/getting lost/parking to go to a large city for each of 3 days seems like a waste of valuable time, and doesn't thrill me. OTOH, I don't want to change hotels more than once.
I'm heartened to read that you mostly think the cities and small towns are doable in 8 days.
As a tentative schedule:
Day 1 - get there
Day 2 - late afternoon; arrive Arles.
Day 3 - Arles; stay in Arles.
Day 4 - St. Remy, Avignon; stay in Arles.
Day 5 - Pont du Gard, Aigues-Mortes; stay in Arles.
Day 6 - Aix-en-Provence; move to Gordes area.
Day 7 - Gordes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse; stay in Gordes area.
Day 8 - Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes; stay in Gordes area.
Day 9 - ??; return to Avignon at least, perhaps to Paris.
Day 10 - fly home.
How is the traffic in and out of Arles as a base? Would St.-Remy area be preferable?
Not sure how sensible days 5 and 8 are (or actually any of it), so please comment at will.
Thanks for your help.
Linda
dgg, yes, as soon as I pressed "post" I realized my error re eastern and western Provence. Grrr. Thanks all for figuring out what I meant.
jen, I think you pinpointed my dilemma. I know this area of Provence is relatively small but driving/getting lost/parking to go to a large city for each of 3 days seems like a waste of valuable time, and doesn't thrill me. OTOH, I don't want to change hotels more than once.
I'm heartened to read that you mostly think the cities and small towns are doable in 8 days.
As a tentative schedule:
Day 1 - get there
Day 2 - late afternoon; arrive Arles.
Day 3 - Arles; stay in Arles.
Day 4 - St. Remy, Avignon; stay in Arles.
Day 5 - Pont du Gard, Aigues-Mortes; stay in Arles.
Day 6 - Aix-en-Provence; move to Gordes area.
Day 7 - Gordes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse; stay in Gordes area.
Day 8 - Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes; stay in Gordes area.
Day 9 - ??; return to Avignon at least, perhaps to Paris.
Day 10 - fly home.
How is the traffic in and out of Arles as a base? Would St.-Remy area be preferable?
Not sure how sensible days 5 and 8 are (or actually any of it), so please comment at will.
Thanks for your help.
Linda
Apr 9th, 2007, 12:56 PM
#10
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We're staying in 2 different places in 5 nights - 3 nights at Les Carmes in Le Thor (almost Isle sur la Sorgue) and then 2 at Riboto de Taven in Les Baux. We just wanted to try out two different places while we were there!
Apr 9th, 2007, 01:14 PM
#12
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know, I can't wait, Cigalechanta!!
Actually I can't wait to stay at Les Carmes either. They are building a new tower with new suites, and since it's my honeymoon they offered me the very top suite of the tower which is supposedly going to have a kick-butt bathroom. Plus they quoted me a rate of 125 euros which is the cheapest room of our trip - and I bet it'll be one of the nicest!!!
I'm a little worried since they haven't updated their website since Feb. 11th, but they said they would have the rooms done by Easter, so hopefully all is on schedule.
Sorry to hijack your thread Linda!!
Actually I can't wait to stay at Les Carmes either. They are building a new tower with new suites, and since it's my honeymoon they offered me the very top suite of the tower which is supposedly going to have a kick-butt bathroom. Plus they quoted me a rate of 125 euros which is the cheapest room of our trip - and I bet it'll be one of the nicest!!!
I'm a little worried since they haven't updated their website since Feb. 11th, but they said they would have the rooms done by Easter, so hopefully all is on schedule.
Sorry to hijack your thread Linda!!
Apr 9th, 2007, 01:24 PM
#14
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Day 1 - get there
Day 2 - late afternoon; arrive Arles.
Day 3 - Arles; stay in Arles.
If you're staying in Arles, I don't think you really need to allocate an entire day just to visit Arles. You'll see plenty of Arles at the beginning & end of each day. It really isn't that large of a town. Perhaps visit les Baux in the afternoon and take a drive arould the Alpillies.
Day 4 - St. Remy, Avignon; stay in Arles.
Day 5 - Pont du Gard, Aigues-Mortes; stay in Arles.
Aigues Mortes is in the opposite direction from the Pont. I would visit Uzes, and Castillion du Gard instead of Aigues Mortes on this day.
Day 6 - Aix-en-Provence; move to Gordes area.
Day 7 - Gordes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse; stay in Gordes area.
Day 8 - Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes; stay in Gordes area.
I think you could combine day 6, 7, & 8 into 2 days, if you don't spend all day in Aix and stay in Gordes. The Luberon isn't that large. Make sure you get to the market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue early in the day (If my math is correct, day 7 is a Sunday). Also, Fountaine gets kinda crowded on a Sunday. Perhaps visit it another day.
If you can indeed squeeze 3 days into 2, on day 8 head towards Sault. Drive around that pertty area a bit, passing Montbrun, then head west on the D72/D40, visit Brantes quickly, then head to Malaucene & do a loop counterclockwise around the Dentelles, visiting Seguret and any other small winegrowing village that interest you. If you have time left in the day (which you may), stop in Pernes les Fountaines & take the fountain walking tour from the tourist office.
Day 9 - ??; return to Avignon at least, perhaps to Paris.
Day 10 - fly home.
How is the traffic in and out of Arles as a base? Would St.-Remy area be preferable?
Personally, I prefer St Remy. Driving in/out & parking is easier.
You were initially considering skipping some/all of the cities in Provence, but you're visiting Arles, Avignon, Aix, and Aigues Mortes (much smaller town - but it sill isn't a small village or in the "country"
.
Stu Dudley
Day 2 - late afternoon; arrive Arles.
Day 3 - Arles; stay in Arles.
If you're staying in Arles, I don't think you really need to allocate an entire day just to visit Arles. You'll see plenty of Arles at the beginning & end of each day. It really isn't that large of a town. Perhaps visit les Baux in the afternoon and take a drive arould the Alpillies.
Day 4 - St. Remy, Avignon; stay in Arles.
Day 5 - Pont du Gard, Aigues-Mortes; stay in Arles.
Aigues Mortes is in the opposite direction from the Pont. I would visit Uzes, and Castillion du Gard instead of Aigues Mortes on this day.
Day 6 - Aix-en-Provence; move to Gordes area.
Day 7 - Gordes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse; stay in Gordes area.
Day 8 - Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes; stay in Gordes area.
I think you could combine day 6, 7, & 8 into 2 days, if you don't spend all day in Aix and stay in Gordes. The Luberon isn't that large. Make sure you get to the market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue early in the day (If my math is correct, day 7 is a Sunday). Also, Fountaine gets kinda crowded on a Sunday. Perhaps visit it another day.
If you can indeed squeeze 3 days into 2, on day 8 head towards Sault. Drive around that pertty area a bit, passing Montbrun, then head west on the D72/D40, visit Brantes quickly, then head to Malaucene & do a loop counterclockwise around the Dentelles, visiting Seguret and any other small winegrowing village that interest you. If you have time left in the day (which you may), stop in Pernes les Fountaines & take the fountain walking tour from the tourist office.
Day 9 - ??; return to Avignon at least, perhaps to Paris.
Day 10 - fly home.
How is the traffic in and out of Arles as a base? Would St.-Remy area be preferable?
Personally, I prefer St Remy. Driving in/out & parking is easier.
You were initially considering skipping some/all of the cities in Provence, but you're visiting Arles, Avignon, Aix, and Aigues Mortes (much smaller town - but it sill isn't a small village or in the "country"
.Stu Dudley
Apr 9th, 2007, 01:34 PM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jen, congratulations on your upcoming wedding. Both your accommodation choices look gorgeous. Riboto is not within our budget, but what a spot.
Stu, thanks for your comments. Yes, I've now included the "cities" with towns as it appears doable.
Your suggestions re days 6, 7 and 8 are terrific and helpful - many thanks.
L
Stu, thanks for your comments. Yes, I've now included the "cities" with towns as it appears doable.
Your suggestions re days 6, 7 and 8 are terrific and helpful - many thanks.
L
Apr 9th, 2007, 05:31 PM
#17
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Linda, I have actually been married for 2.5 years. We're just finally getting around to taking our "dream" honeymoon. Finances and other family obligations prevented us from taking one before.
We're just finally getting around to taking our "dream" honeymoon. Finances and other family obligations prevented us from taking one before.
Apr 9th, 2007, 09:10 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Been there, Jen.
My husband and I eloped, we had his sister (and my close friend) and her boyfriend of the time as our witnesses, and they bought us a champagne luncheon. Went from Vancouver to Victoria for our rainy weekend "honeymoon".
We've since taken some interesting trips together, and apart, and this fall, some 33 years later, we're going to Amsterdam and Rome together. I think we'll be calling it our second - or tenth! - honeymoon. Have a great honeymoon and please report back on your travels.
Linda
My husband and I eloped, we had his sister (and my close friend) and her boyfriend of the time as our witnesses, and they bought us a champagne luncheon. Went from Vancouver to Victoria for our rainy weekend "honeymoon".
We've since taken some interesting trips together, and apart, and this fall, some 33 years later, we're going to Amsterdam and Rome together. I think we'll be calling it our second - or tenth! - honeymoon. Have a great honeymoon and please report back on your travels.
Linda
