comedian

We are experienced travellers in France but not of this region. We plan to do both Drome area near Grignan and the Gorges d'Ardeche near Vallon Pont D'Arc. How would you split your time if you had 6 nights? Would you stay over near Grignan for whole time and drive or stay a few nights near Gorge? Has anyone done the drive above the Gorge or the canoeing? What are the must do's/best drives/markets, villages over near Grignan. Can anyone speak of the chambre d'hote 'Demeure du chateau' at Grignan? Merci en avance!

GregY2

I would suggest that you look at one location as the Gorges de l'Ardeche are not that far from Grignan, and I think you would be better to have your base in the Drome. The gorge drive is scenic and the cave at Orgnac is spectacular but there are not a lot of other attractions in that area. Sorry, I don't know anything about the canoeing. The chateau at Grignan is worth a look - although the commentary tells you maybe more than you need to know about Madame de Sevigny. We like the market at Vaison la Romaine on Tuesday mornings and Vaison itself is well worth a visit for it's roman ruins and medieval old town. The cote de Rhone wine villages around the Dentelles de Montmirail are lovely and would be easily viisted from Grignan. The countryside around Nyons & Valeas is attractive, with lots of olive groves, but there are not many distinctive destinations. On a recent visit we did a great drive up the A7, then east towards Grenoble before turning south again to Pont en Royan and then on through the cirque de Combe Laval - a spectacular mountain drive - continuing south to Die and back via Nyons. Can't help with the accomodation, we stay at Beaumes de Venise and have never had to look around Grignan.

ira

Hi Com,

We stayed nearby and drove the route through the Gorge - very interesting.
As noted, there is not much else to do up there.

You might find the Provence part of my trip report useful:
Ira Returns From 22 Loverly Days in Europe - Sep, 2009
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-europe.cfm

Enjoy your visit.

StuDudley

Here is some stuff about that area from my 27 page Provence/Cote d'Azur Itinerary (e-mail me at [email protected] if you want the entire itinerary)

Just north of Provence in the Ardeche & Drome

Look up Gorges de l’ARDECHE*** in the green guide under A. This is a pretty area worth exploring. Visit Aven d’Orgnac*** - a wonderful cave with stalactites & stalagmites. The other caves in the Ardeche aren’t as good as Aven d’Orgnac.

Here are some very interesting non-touristy villages at the west end of the Gorges de l'Ardeche.
Labeaume*
Balazuc*
Roums (a little touristy)

On the way up the west side of the Rhone, just south of Montelimar , visit St Montan. It is mis-labeled St Montant on some Michelin maps. Several years ago a group of families looking for a nice place to live where they could buy crumbling houses & put in some sweat-equity, started to restore this crumbled medieval village. Soon others joined, and they now have a real gem.

Vivers is also an interesting town to explore. If you drive through town on the main road, it will look like nothing. However, the parallel medieval road just 1 block east has some very nice architecture on it. The D107 from Vivers to Alba is a very scenic road.

Farther up the Rhone on the west side, the towns of St Vincent de Barres and Beauchastel are quite interesting. Still traveling north, just west of Valence & high up on a bluff are the ruins of Chateau Crussol** - you'll see it from the road. We enjoyed tromping around the ruins & taking-in the views from there.

Crossing the Rhone & heading south, Crest is an interesting town to explore. It has some very nice old houses & the ruined chateau’s tower is well worth a visit. There is a nice view from the top. We enjoyed this town quite a bit.

Closer to the Rhone River, Mirmande is a cute town, and Cliousclat has some pottery.

Many people enjoy Poet-Laval more than we did, but the restaurant and the views from the restaurant are excellent.

Dieulefit is worth exploring, and has some very nice pottery – my wife managed to find a few things to lug home.


Chateau Grignan** is one of the few castles open in the area. It has lots of history, and the town itself is worth a wander through.

You will see some nice lavender along the D541 west of Grignan. Also along the D20 south of Richerenches (which is an interesting town)

We did not like Valreas.

We enjoyed the troglodyte village of Barry*.

If you want to visit a town which has been "Wal-Marted", go to Bollene. We entered from the north, parked the car & walked through town. If has some interesting architecture, but the stores were boarded up & crumbling. We could not understand why. When we left town to the south, we saw the half-dozen or so huge box stores where people go & shop instead of doing their shopping in Bollene.

Stu Dudley

comedian

Lots of useful advice, thanks. Stu, Shame for Bollene...in Australia we don't have Wal Mart yet...I believe it's on its way!I think we will settle for 4 nights aound Grignan and do the Gorge on way out and then just stay somewhere nearby for that night. For our final night ot two en route to Troyes area where family in laws live, I'd like to try Lyon. Can you suggest a decent hotel in/near Lyon where we can park car (even if we need to get bus/train in?)

StCirq

I think you may find yourself a bit bored with 4 nights around Grignan. The château there (and town) is quite interesting, but the landscape is fairly bleak and the nearby towns uninspiring for the most part.

A really good bargain hotel in Lyon is La Résidence, very central and nice, large comfortable rooms. Can't speak to parking, though, as I didn't have a car there.

comedian

Ooh St Cirq I was just about to book 3 nights at Demeure du Chateau right next to chateau in town.Thought would od Gorge de l'Ardeche, Nyons, some others...hmmm. I have done Dentelles and vaison, Luberon and thought it would be a new area!? there's another few options at Mirabel de Barronies, and also about 10 kms from grignan looks nice.Any other ideas? I don't want bleak! We only get to france every second year so want to make good choices. That poor woman at Demeure will want to kill me if I dont book now! She has 'pencilled' us in until I send $ transfer. As for Lyon we will have a car, so can be a pain, will look at La Residence, thanks

StuDudley

Three nights in that area would be fine, IMO. I think you won't run out of things to do & see. Not as lush & green as the Luberon or Dentelles, and not as many cute villages that cater to tourist. But the villages are still quite interesting and for me - fewer touristy things is a plus. If you'll be there in Lavender season, there are some pretty fields around Grignan.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

comedian: Last time I was there was early March. Maybe that explains the "bleak" landscape. It was so cold and wet and windy I got blow over onto the cobblestones walking up to the entrance to the château. I'm sure you'll be fine. And yes, the Gorge de l'Ardèche and Nyons and surrounds will keep you busy, I guess. Check out the "weathervanes" on houses and buildings while you're there and see if you can figure out what they're all about. Actually, I think it's great you're heading to someplace farther afield than most people venture.

comedian

Looks like 3 nights Grignan and then after a day at Gorge de l'Ardeche, staying at hotel Vallon Pont D'Arc. Will do Lyon or go over Grenoble/ Chambery way out. If we can add a night ot two over Alps way...any itinerary suggestions?

Underhill

Don't overlook a visit to the Aven d'Orgnac, an enormous cave near the Ardèche. It fits in well with a drive along the corniche above the river.

As for Le Poët-Laval, it's one of our very favorite places...but a place to stay rather than to visit. We love the small hotel Les Hospitaliers, whose original, now retired owners reconstructed the vilage just about from the ground up and added the hotel/restaurant complex. Dinner on a summer evening is magical: very quiet, with only a few lights across the valley to break up the expanse of starry sky. There's even a small art gallery with changing exhibitions, as well as a room for chamber concerts. All the restoration was carefully done, often with original stone.

The small town of Dieulefit is fun to explore, as are its pastry and pottery shops. The region is known for yellow pottery; you'll see it in shops all over Provence.