nancythenice

Thanks to all for this wonderful information. I have checked Trip Advisor, and there appear to be several very interesting hotels in Paestum, including this one - Il Granaio dei Casabella - that is a remodeled granery that offers a view of the ruins, lit at night, from some of the bedrooms! Sounds spectacular.

Now I am really confused, however, on how to arrange this trip - particularly since staying a night or two in Paestum sounds wonderful. My "must see" list includes Pompeii, the Naples archeology museum, Paestum and its museum, and hopefully, the coast drive. Maybe it is too much in four days, but that is what I am trying to get in. If necessary, it is the coast drive that I would give up.

We will be coming from Rome, and my idea was to stay in Naples for two nights, see the museum and some of the city, and go to Pompeii. Then go to Paestum and drive the Amalfi coast road (not necessarily in that order) devoting two more days -and two nights. It would look like this:
Day 1 - train from Rome to Naples, see museum and some of city, sleep in Naples
Day 2 - Pompeii - sleep in Naples
Day 3 (Sun. Nov. 1 - holiday, time change) - get car, drive to Paestum - sleep in Paestum
Day 4 (Paestum museum not open) - drive Amalfi Coast Rd. - sleep in Sorrento
And then, on to Tuscany the next day.

I keep trying to figure out a way to reduce the number of hotels - but it is hard, particularly since Day 4 is a Monday, and the Paestum museum is not open that day.

We could do 2 nights in Naples (or Sorrento instead), and 2 in Paestum if it were possible to drive the coast road and arrive in Paestum on Day 3 in time to see the museum that same day. Day 3 is November 1, however, with the time change and early closings starting. Would we feel rushed to complete the coast drive in time to get to Paestum to see the museum? Particularly if we start in Naples, and have to pick up the car first?

Another option for 2 hotels, has us going from Rome to Paestum on Day 1 - hopefully stopping in Naples to see the museum on the way. It would look like this:
Day 1 - train from Rome to Naples, see museum, get car and drive to Paestum - sleep in Paestum
Day 2 - explore Paestum area - sleep in Paestum
Day 3 - drive Amalfi Coast Rd. - sleep in Sorrento
Day 4 - go to Pompeii - sleep in Sorrento
This approach gives short shrift to the wonders of Naples, and I don't know if it is even feasible to do the archeology museum and continue on to Paestum the same day.

One last option that I would certainly consider, if it made sense, would be to spend all 4 nights in one place, and do day trips, but is Sorrento centrally enough located for that? (Sorrento holds no special appeal for me, but if it makes the best base camp, I am all for it).
Day 1 - train from Rome to Naples, see museum, train to Sorrento for the night
Day 2 - Pompeii - stay in Sorrento
Day 3 - get car, drive to Paestum for the day - return to Sorrento
Day 4 - drive or take bus on round trip of Amalfi Coast Rd. - return to Sorrento
This seems to involve a lot of backtracking - and given the short daylight in November, I wonder if its better to decrease travel time, even if it means moving more between hotels.

I know it is a lot to ask, but I would really appreciate knowing anyone's thoughts on the best way to do this, including telling me that I have to cut something out (or add a day.) What am I missing here?

basingstoke2

I would strongly suggest driving rather than using the bus. With the bus you could have a decent view if you are on the side of the bus towards the coast, but otherwise you will have to look across the width of the bus and people on the other side. Your view would be very compromised. Also on the bus you can't stop in the towns or find a place to pull off and take photos. Having driven the coast in both directions at least half dozen times, I do not think it as difficult as some make it out to be - actually it was enjoyable. The drive from the Airport to the coast is not interesting but also not difficult.

nancythenice

Thanks basingstoke2. That clarifies for me why one is advised that on the bus, it is important to sit on the side near the water. Now that you explain, it makes sense that in a car there isn't so much blocking your view if you are on the "inside."

GAC

nancy: of all your proposed itineraries, the first one seems to be the most logical, also because it give more time to Naples (which the city most certainly deserves, and Vincenzo will agree with me). Indeed, you should also include two more museums: the Capodimonte Picture Gallery and the Museo di San Martino (which you won't have time to visit).

Probably the most logical place to stay overnight for four days (which I don't recommend) would be Salerno, as it is the most central location for the places you intend to visit. It's also not a bad town, and several interesting new hotels have opened in the past several years. Of course, it doesn't have the "charm" of Amalfi or Praiano or Positano, etc.

I also make one further comment: even though you plan to rent a car for part of the trip (which I think is a good idea), it would most certainly be possible, indeed easy, to do your entire itinerary by public transportation. I note this for those travellers who, for whatever reason, prefer not to drive. Indeed, Naples to Paestum is fast and easy by direct regionale train; Paestum to Salerno is a cinch by train OR bus; and Salerno to Sorrento involves nearly three hours on the SITA bus, with a required connection in Amalfi (great place to connect). Paestum to Sorrento by car is a little faster (but not by much), but it does allow one to stop wherever at one's pleasure. Sorrento to "Tuscany" can be done by train (depends where you're going). My point is simply that renting a car is by no means the "only" solution.

nancythenice

That is very helpful GAC. Thanks. I agree that Naples needs more time, but what would I cut out? So hard to choose.
I had also concluded that Salerno was in a central location, but it just didn't appeal that much.
By contrast, it looks like there are a several places in Paestum, including the one mentioned by Vincenzo, that are very attractive. I look forward to spending at least one night there - and would love to spend two. I suppose I could do that by renting a car the second day, driving to Pompeii, and then driving on to Paestum that evening rather than going back to Naples. That would mean one night Naples, two in Paestum, and one in Sorrento.
I really appreciate the advice.

GAC

nancy: its a tough decision, because you have designed a very ambitious itinerary for such a short stay!! Consider the possibility that the weather in November may sway your decisions: if you have the misfortune of departing Paestum on a very rainy day, do you still want to drive the Amalfi Coast yourself? Would you prefer to take the bus in the rain? Or is the bus even worse? Skip the coast entirely (thick clouds may ruin much of the scenery)? If it's raining on your day of arrival at Paestum, would you prefer to take the train in from Naples and have the hotel proprietor meet you at the station? Or would the rain make you more determined to rent a car? Indeed, if the weather is bad, you might decide, at the last moment, to spend three nights in Naples and one in Paestum (departing Paestum the next morning for "Tuscany"). Bear in mind that it won't be difficult to find hotel space in Paestum this late in the season, so you might consider delaying your hotel reservation until the very end.

How feasible would it be to "loop in" the Amalfi Drive on the way to "Tuscany" from Paestum? Too long a day? Not worthwhile if it rains?

daveesl

Nancy, the B&B is open year round, the family lives there. They have their own olive grove and vineyard and yes they make their own olive oil and wine.

We had a great time there, like the old "Galloping Gourmet", she loves to have her wine as she creates in her kitchen. The kitchen is so big, she has a couch in it so you can sit down and chat. Her English isn't very good, but Enzo (her husband) is fluent.

Dinner is a multi-hour festival and I think the price was something like 20 or 25 euros. It was some of the best food we have had in Italy, she is amazing. But remember, she doesn't always cook, so you have to ask in advance if she is doing dinner on the night you stay. (I'm sorry, I cannot remember her name).

And when I say the "family" is involved, I mean everyone. Her aunt, her daughters, some cousin from down the road, it was great. We were there over New Years a few years ago.

aprillilacs

Think about basing in Vietri sul Mare. It's well-known for its ceramics shops. It's a short drive north of Salerno, at the base of the Amalfi coast. We based there for a week in May, and it was just perfect for visiting Paestum, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Amalfi, Ravello, etc., as daytrips. We didn't get to Naples, but I understand from the villa's owner that it's an easy train ride from Vietri into Naples. Though we rented a villa (Casa Sorvillo, through cuendet.com), there are several hotels that looked pretty good from from outside. I give more details in part 2 of my recent trip report, "40 days... ."

GAC makes a really good point about the weather. You may have to adjust your plans on the fly. Basing in one spot would allow you to choose to do what's best to fit the weather of the day.

Texastrips

That's a great idea to stay in Vietri Sul Mare or even the next town (Cetara) - not only very easy access to Paestum and at the start of the wrong way drive on the AC (you could drive along say to Sant'Agata due golfi and then drive back the right way!), but you'd have very easy access to the autostrada for the next leg of your trip to Tuscany. (Far easier than from Sorrento which has nothing to recommend it in our opinion - we spent the las two nights of this summer's trip there after two weeks in the Cilento and on the AC and all agreed we need never go there again).
And you could even get the train from Naples to Salerno and pick up your rental car there.

nancythenice

These are such helpful posts. Thanks to you all. I had considered that weather might totally squash my interest in the coast drive - but the ruins and museums I will want to do regardless, and Naples has much to see, even if the weather is poor. I would love to wait and make decisions when we get there based on the weather, but they say I should arrange for the car before I leave the US - perhaps it can be picked up late if necessary. Daveesl, I looked at the website for the B&B - amazing pictures, and I love your description of the family. I will check out Vietri Sul Mare and Cetara. Thanks again to all. I will keep you posted as my plans develop.

GAC

I've been to Cetara: very quiet town off-season, 20 minutes west of Salerno. SITA bus stop smack in the town center. There's a four star hotel -- Hotel Cetara if I'm not mistaken, right on the cliffs overlooking the sea. Very small parking lot. Renting the car at the Salerno train station could work out: a quick drive south to Paestum, back north to Salerno/Cetara/Amalfi the next day, return the car to Salerno, then take the train to "Tuscany".

aprillilacs

And Cetara has 3 excellent restaurants -- I only ate in one (Al Convento), but the other 2 were also highly recommended. Check whether they would be open in November, however. Cetara would be a delightful town to stay in.

GAC

my error:

www.hotelcetus.com

ekscrunchy

I've had my eye on the Hotel Cetus for years!!! Cetara would be a great place to stay. And the hotel has both a great view and a pool and beach, if I recall correctly. GREAT idea!

There is a video of the hotel on YouTube taken by an Italian guest..or at least there was a couple of years ago when I was looking for reviews.

Here is another hotel site:

http://www.charmerelax.it/hotel.asp?...gina=&lang=eng

Marianna

Nancythenice, I hope you don't mind if I ask a question here for Fodors people since Paestum has been mentioned.

We visited the ruins in Ercolano on our first visit to Italy many years ago. In several subsequent visits to Italy, we planned to visit Pompeii and Paestum but never got to either one. I know they are both amazing places but I have read that Paestum is a must see. If you had the time to visit one place - Pomeii or Paestum, which would you choose and why?

GAC

Apples and Oranges: impossible to compare. Paestum has three magnificent Greek doric temples. The one in the middle, the Temple of Neptune, is considered by many to be the best preserved on earth. There is an extensive archeological zone around the temples, but nothing "built up" as in Pompei. The archeological museum in Paestum is also amazing.

By contrast, Pompei is the best example on earth of a whole Roman city, a "living air musuem" of what it was like to be a resident of the Roman Empire in southern Italy in the early years of the first millenium A.D.

Pompei also takes longer to visit well, at least one full day. You can manage to visit Paestum in about 4 hours. Paestum also has some nice beaches nearby, therefore it can be used as a base for rest and relaxation.

nancythenice

For me, it would be Pompeii, but that is because it fulfills a dream that began in high school latin class. Roman history simply fills a larger part of my imagination because of all those hours spent learning the language and watching my teacher's slide shows. I marveled the first time I encountered Roman ruins - in England. Then enjoyed other sites in Germany and Turkey, including Epidaurus. Now to visit Rome, and then Pompeii, completes a sort of intellectual pilgramage for me to "the mother-ship" of Roman history. That said, the beauty of ancient Greek architecture is a huge lure, and the relative isolation of Paestum makes it enourmously attractive.

nancythenice

Attention - don't open the link on the last post. I just reported it to the administrators.

The Cetus looks lovely
I guess the idea would be that we could base there, do a day trip to Paestum, a day trip to Pompeii, and spend a third day exploring the coastal towns depending upon the weather. That, indeed, would be an improvement over moving each night. It is a bit pricier than I was hoping for on this part of the trip - but that view is amazing.

Vincenzoda

About Pompei and Paestum, I compeltely agree with GAC.
About CETUS hotel, oh yes it is lovely but for the reason that I know it very well, for the same reason I tell you that maybe it is not the best choice.
I use it sometimes for my job, meaning meetings and seminars, and therefore in some days it can be crowded and there are also weddings.
To dine in Cetara, do not miss ACQUAPAZZA.

Vincenzo

nancythenice

Vincenzo - do you have any recommendations for accomodations in the same general vicinity as Cetera - maybe near Salerno or Vietre Sul Mare? I loved your ideas in the Paestum area, but locating midway between Pompeii and Paestum seems ideal.
Aprillilacs - I just read the section of your trip report on Vietre Sul Mare! Thanks so much. It really allows someone in the planning stages - like me - to better visualize the days - and remember that there are better things than racing around to cram in all the "sites." Even if we don't stay in Vietre Sul Mare - I now want to visit the ceramics shops! Is parking available in the town?