Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - driving in Andalucia and more

Hi Olga, Me again...forgot to mention a great NY Times article on Almagro, 5/23/99, "All the Town's a Stage", written by my heroine, Penelope Casas, the author of "Discovering Spain, An Uncommon Guide" (which is an indispensable tome for us in planning our own trips). Try to access the article from the NY Times archives. From the 16th c, during Charles V's reign, a Flemish presence emerged in Almagro and lace-making began to flourish. You'll see the ladies seated at their doorways still engaged in the craft, and you can purchase their handiwork in the stores on the lovely Plaza Mayor. And while you're on the Plaza make sure to visit the unusual Corral de Comedias theater, where the July Int. Classic Theater Festival is held. It's said to be a contemporary of Shakespeare's Globe Theater. We loved our stay at the 16th c Franciscan convent Parador San Francisco-it's a maze of corridors and courtyards (there are 14 or so interior patios!) Very cozy, peaceful and romantic at night. If you stay here, and I hope you do, have a drink and some Manchego cheese before dinner in the rustic, atmospheric bodega bar decorated with huge earthenware wine storage jars ("tinajas")-very Manchegan. The pretty dining rm serves nice regional fare, like ragout of lamb and "berenjenas Almagro" (eggplant) and Valdepenas wines (Vina Albali tinto). As you can tell, this is one of my very favorite Paradors! The two couples who traveled with us loved it as well, just as much as they did the Parador in Carmona, outside of Seville. Maria's "Two Weeks in Castilla-La Mancha" post (I just saved it-it's wonderful) mentioned the square bullring, oldest in Spain, at Las Virtudes, only a half hour from Almagro, if you have time. And another must see from Almagro to Toledo are the wonderfully preserved windmills in Consuegra. You can drive right up to them. I don't remember when you're traveling, but the last week in October the fields below will be covered in a violet blanket of saffron blossoms-it's the "azafran" capital of Spain. For an Extremadura visit (really worthy of at least 3 days), try to access these articles: "Land of the Conquerors", NY Times 5/10/98 and a March '98 Conde Nast Traveler article, "Spain at the Extreme". Very helpful, informative. The travel press says that the newly refurbished 14th c Castle/Parador at Jarandilla de la Vera (former home of Emperor Charles V) is just magnificent. It would make a nice stop on the way from Caceres to Madrid on your next Spain visit! My husband was born in La Mancha, near Belmonte, and raised in Madrid, his entire family lives in Spain, and I've lived/studied/worked there off and on for 30 yrs (heavens, this really dates me!). This explains why the country is so dear to my heart, and why I'm such an obsessive promoter! Have a wonderful journey, Olga. P.S. for Maria and your trip: You'll need two days for your journey from Seville to Granada, if you plan to see the sherry bodegas or dancing horses in Jerez and the white towns from there to Marbella. From Seville take fast toll A4 down to Jerez. Then either take the coastal route on N 340 past Tarifa and Algeciras to Marbella or the prettier (IMO) white town route on N 342 thru Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda then down the C 339 to Marbella. From Marbella to Granada either go the quicker, inland route on N 321-324 up from Malaga and thru Lonja or the prettier (again, IMO) but slower coastal route past Nerja then up the mountainous N 323 at Salobrena. To soak up the beautiful scenery in this area, I'd certainly allow at least 2 days. We do the Granada-Seville route with an overnight in Marbella/Ojen/Monda and another on the Arcos-Ronda white town stretch. Have fun!