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Old Aug 30th, 2005, 05:32 PM
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DRESDEN german restaurants& playhouse venues


We are making our second trip to Dresden in mid September, staying two nights by the Frauenkirche. We'd really like to find out more about good cosy German restaurants(or Austrian/Alsatian) in the Altstadt/Neustadt area.

We are also thinking of going to a good german play/performance (not ballet/opera) but we can't find any info on the internet beyond the Semper performances. Appreciate your suggestions.
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Old Aug 31st, 2005, 07:42 AM
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Welcome back, DAX!

Good German restaurants in the Altstadt which I can recommend:

Paulaner's in the Kempinski Taschenbergpalais (don't worry, not expensive like the hotel!) - Bavarian food as the name indicates.

Radeberger Spezialausschank (at Brühl's terrace, regional food, local beer, try the "Zwickel" beer.

Zum Schiesshaus, local food. Located two blocks from the Zwinger westwards. See directions at www.zum-schiesshaus.de and click on "Lage"

In the Neustadt there are more international restaurants - but there is a place with Alsatian food, I must look it up ...

Re: theatre/performances: please tell me when exactly you will be here, so I can give you appropriate advice. There are plenty of options ...

www.staatsschauspiel-dresden.de
www.staatsoperette-dresden.de
www.komoedie-dresden.de
www.dresden-theater.de
www.tjg-dresden.de
www.herkuleskeule.de
www.theaterkahn-dresden.de
www.kabarett-breschke-schuch.de

etc.

Please let me know if I can help you further.

Ingo
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Old Aug 31st, 2005, 08:48 PM
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Thanks for the great recommendations Ingo!
Food is such an important ingredient in our travels. Paulaner seems to be bavarian and must be very good that you recommend it over the saxonian Sophienskeller in the same hotel. Reading the menu from Zum Schiesshaus makes my mouth water as it has the game(wild) dishes that I crave for. I suppose Radeberger Ausschank is great for the regional food and the river view. You have to educate us on what saxon dishes to try aside from the Zwickel beer.

We are limited to two venues for the specific night we plan to see a local performance. Have you ever seen a Breschke Schuch production ? It looks like a fun production but the place looks so small that we can't help wondering about the quality.

My wife is also wondering about any good shopping area where I can go into a nearby Saturn/Media Markt while she wanders around. We also booked a one night stay in Leipzig but I wonder if we should change to Goerlitz/Bautzen. My grandfather used to go to Leipzig for tradefairs annually, I remember seeing old postcards from there as a child. However, an article about Goerlitz and a short film about Bautzen raised our curiousity as well, unfortunately we only have 3 nights, so we have to choose. Thanks again for your generous help. I apologize for asking so many questions.
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Old Sep 1st, 2005, 01:15 PM
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I prefer the Paulaner's over the Sophienkeller (did you eat there?) because of the ambience - when I have been to the latter last time it was noisy, with tour groups and a sort of "animation" (an actor as "August der Starke" - awful). But the food was not bad ... I just like the Bavarian beer too

In the Schiesshaus I liked the "Freischützpfanne" and "Hirschsteak" most ... and the Desserts are nice too ... "Plinse" is typical local food (I like the version with ice cream). The local specialty "Quarkkeulchen" was not really to my liking ... it is better at home ;-)

The Radeberger Ausschank is located in a small house, like an annex to Brühl's terrace. When the weather is fine you can sit on the terrace (same level like Brühl's terrace) and enjoy the fantastic view - otherwise it is cosy inside! A year ago I had lunch with Fodorites there - we had Saxon potato soup and roasted potatoes with a Bratwurst e.g. - both very good.

Unfortunately the best restaurants with local food are located in the outskirts/rural parts of Dresden - and so often overlooked by tourists. Most are not easy to get to by public transportation. An excellent example is Historisches Fischhaus www.fischhaus.de or Zschonermühle www.zschoner-muehle.de

Yes, I have been to Breschke & Schuch - fantastic. Don't worry about the quality - but I am afraid you will have problems to get tickets. Book early! Do you understand German well? This is essential to have fun there ... and they also mix it up with local dialect

Shopping ... hm. There is a big Saturn in the shopping mall in the city centre (Altmarktgalerie) where she can do some shopping too. It is located right next to the Altmarkt. If your wife looks for a nice shopping quarter where she can find some boutiques, craft work shops etc. she should go to the Neustadt right across the old town (Königstrasse, Hauptstrasse, Rähnitzgasse) - no Media Markt or Saturn there, sorry.

Definitely go to Görlitz. It is my favourite town! Unbelievable architecture from Gothic/Renaissance/Baroque to 19th century/Art Nouveau times. Bautzen is beautiful too, but doesn't offer as much as Görlitz.

Here you can get more information on Görlitz (my VT page):
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/eb77/

Let me know if I can help you further (and don't hesitate to ask more questions!),

Ingo
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Old Sep 1st, 2005, 11:47 PM
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Thanks for your further elaboration! No, we've never dined in Sophienkeller, but now you've convinced us to dine at Paulaner & Schiesshaus. We went to Dresden with our kids last time, so we basically ate when they were hungry. Accidental food was never that exciting, but we did have great food at the Alte Meister between the Zwinger & the Semper. Considering the location, we expected tourist trap quality but it was surprisingly wonderful/sophisticated though more nouveau than traditional.

We just have to push our luck with Breschke & Schuch (on Tuesday night)as we're not sure how we'll be with jetlag. I'm excited to hear that B&S are fantastic though we probably will miss out on the dialect. I understand about 95 % of TV talkshows, films & news on ZDF & ARD (on satelite TV). Two decades ago, I had German literature in the university as a second subject and spent two summers studying German in Switzerland (where, as you know,they barely speak German!). Off I go now to do more research on Goerlitz. Thanks again for all the info. I really appreciate your help.
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Old Sep 4th, 2005, 08:59 PM
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Hi
Thanks DAX and Ingo. I'll be in Dresden toward the end of Sept. You've given me a couple of good resturants to try. Any ideas about good hotels modererate to medium priced with parking. The Kempinski is too expensive.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 5th, 2005, 10:19 AM
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DAX, your German must be excellent. I hope you enjoy the Saxon dialect although you might hear few people speaking it in the touristy areas ... Did you know that Goethe was sent to Leipzig by his parents to learn "decent" German? LOL! Nowadays there are many jokes about the Saxon dialect.

I fully agree with you on the Alte Meister. I was surprised, too, that the food was quite good at this location. I just love sitting there and watching the magnificent buildings around Theaterplatz.

aeiger,

unfortunately you don't tell us a price range or category you are looking for. The Taschenbergpalais obviously occupies the top of the room rates ranking ...

There is a lovely 3star hotel in the Neustadt - Marthahospiz - which I can recommend. Go to www.vch.de and search for "Dresden" or
http://marthahospiz.dresden.vch.de/


Another recommendation is the 3star Rothenburger Hof in the Neustadt (rooms to the street are noisy, the rooms to the garden quiet).
www.dresden-hotel.de

The Pension (B&B) am Grossen Garten is another nice place. Fodorites stayed there and liked it very much. Quiet residential area, 10 minutes by tram to the old town.
www.pension-am-grossen-garten.de

You can also try the 3star Kipping a block behind the central railway station. Small, familiar hotel in a 19th century house.
www.hotel-kipping.de

You must know that Sept is peak season. Can happen that all these are booked. If you speak German you can also visit this site:
www.dresden-privathotels.de

This site gives an overview of some of the small hotels in Dresden with familiar atmosphere (many family running). Some are even online bookable through this site.
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Old Sep 8th, 2005, 08:38 PM
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Ingo,
I shall find out if I can even understand the Saxon dialect. It can't be worse than Bavarian or Swiss. My German is far from excellent, in fact quite rusty in speaking but usually gets better after a few days. I'm amazed at how good your English is, you must have spent sometime in an English speaking country. I'm glad to be leaving for Berlin tomorrow. Thanks to your suggestions I feel more prepared to enjoy Dresden.
BTW,do you still have the name of the Alsatian restaurant in the Neustadt area?

aeiger,
For what it's worth, check out Pension Am Zwinger (www.pension-zwinger.de).

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Old Sep 9th, 2005, 07:28 AM
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DAX,

I am quite sure your German is better than my English. No, I have not spent time in an English speaking country (yet). Saxon dialect is much easier to understand than Bavarian or Swiss IMO. You won't have any problems I think and enjoy it

Sorry about being late with the update on the Alsatian restaurant. Unfortunately the one where I ate last year is closed. There is a new one called "Gelbfüssler" (Neustadt, Alaunstrasse 84) which offers simple Alsatian food like 12 sorts of Flammkuchen and some southwest-German specialties like Maultaschen, but I cannot comment on the quality since I did not have any food there so far.

And there is another one offering French food (and some jewish, but not kosher food), just around the corner, called "La Rue" (Neustadt, Görlitzer Str. 11). My friends recommend it, but again I cannot comment from personal experience.

In any case, I highly recommend to stroll through the area (Neustadt, northeast from Albertplatz) one late evening. It is a lively district with plenty of bars, restaurants, dancings, discos, some independent theatres etc. Very interesting is the Kunsthofpassage, where several backyards were connected. Each of them has a theme, such as "Hof der Tiere", and designed according to this theme. There is e.g. a nice Spanish restaurant there and you'll also find some craftwork shops - and the best local ice cream (Neumann's Tiki). www.kunsthofpassage.de The two restaurants I mentioned above are located in the two streets which are connected by the Kunsthofpassage (Alaunstrasse and Görlitzer Strasse), so it is worth to explore!

May I give you another advice? The area around the Frauenkirche is currently (and probably for another couple of years!) a big construction site. It is annoying ... and I don't recommend to spend much time there. See the church, go on top, but then leave the area. I am sure you have made plans, but if you may find three or four hours - take a paddle steamer from the old town upstream to Pillnitz Palace. Very enjoyable boat ride and the palace (and garden) is a gem. You can go back by bus 83 and tram 12 to the city centre (change at Schillerplatz).

Just an idea.

Have a wonderful trip!

Ingo
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Old Sep 9th, 2005, 09:07 AM
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Ingo,
Thanks for your last minute tips, I'm printing as I'm leaving for the airport now. I can't believe that the Frauenkirche area is still a construction mess after all these years. It's probably too late to change my accomodation, but I may try from Berlin if I have time. Thanks again Ingo!
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Old Sep 19th, 2005, 05:01 PM
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Ingo,
I had a great time watching Dreschke & his beautiful blond pianist. They were quite funny in a tongue & cheek way. It was the perfect light comedy and easy to understand. They didn't do any local dialect and I'm glad I've followed up on the german election issues so I understood their political jokes.

We ate lunch & dinner at the Paulaner and I also tried to eat at the Schiesshaus but ran out of time waiting for service so ended up just drinking before the Kabarett. It was a nice rustic/quaint place to eat if only there's more time.

Dresden looks like a great place to live and so affordable. Neustadt is very comfortable to stroll & enjoy especially in the more upscale area around Koenigstrasse.

Once again, thanks!
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Old Sep 20th, 2005, 10:13 AM
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Hello DAX,

You must speak German very well if you could understand the comedy ... too bad they did not speak (maybe a little?) local dialect - it would add to the fun sometimes.

I am sorry for you that the service was so slow at the Schiesshaus. Hm, maybe it was in peak hours ... and crowded?

I am glad you liked Dresden. And yes, it is a great place to live and VERY affordable.

Ingo
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Old Sep 21st, 2005, 05:01 AM
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Yes indeed, I was surprised that the Schiesshaus had only one waiter serving dinner at the time. It's really our fault for not allowing more time to enjoy dinner slowly. We are so used to the american concept of "pre-theatre dinner" (3 courses in 90 minutes or less).

So many dialects were spoken by people/tourists in Dresden but I couldn't recognize which one is Saxon. A couple from Hamburg told me that it sounds like a cross between German and Czech/Russian or even Portuguese. I wonder if that's somewhat accurate.

Honestly, I wished my German rolls out more smoothly. I still stumble with conjugations and cases when conversing/discussing beyond common expressions. Listening/understanding has become a lot easier since I have been watching German satelite channels.

I was intrigued by the messy german election results, in terms of what will happen now. I had a good chat with a bunch of CDU supporters in a Berlin restaurant. It's interesting how Dresden was allowed to delay their voting till October. From what I understand, Dresden may give SPD the 3 seats to bring them even with the Union. The german election system is definitely different and interesting.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2005, 05:11 AM
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Only one waiter serving dinner? That's not your fault! But you are right, we take more time for dinner ... I don't get out of a restaurant (when having 3 courses) in less than 3 hours

The couple from Hamburg was totally wrong with the description of the Saxon dialect. In general you can say the "soft" consonants win over the "hard" consonants - e.g. speak "g" in spite of "k", "d" in spite of "t" etc. And of course there are some special words ... we use to say "nu" in spite of "ja". It is said that Saxon is next to Italian the most melodic "language" and has the least percentage of consonants. Exactly the opposite to Russian and other Eastern European languages.

If we Saxons speak with foreigners we don't use our dialect and try to speak decent German. Can be quite funny ...

I am glad to hear you watch/listen to German satellite channels. This will definitely result in improving your German, but honestly I don't think you need to ... as said before, if you understand the comedy your German must be excellent.

The result of the elections was a disaster in some way. No clear decision. There is almost no chance, however, that the delayed election in Dresden will give the SPD 3 seats. I think the SPD will win one and the CDU lose one - due to the complicating election system. We will know on 3 Oct!
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