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Dresden and Area Christmas Markets - Ingo, bitte?

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Old Nov 10th, 2010, 03:08 PM
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Dresden and Area Christmas Markets - Ingo, bitte?

I just may get the chance to be in Germany December 8 - 13, and was thinking of heading to the Dresden and area Christmas Markets as well as Berlin's, possibly.

Can you give me any information on Dresden's Christkindlmarkt, Ingo? What about Meissen, or others in the area.

What else of significance is going on in the area for those 5 days?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 10th, 2010, 10:12 PM
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The Christmas market in Dresden is called Striezelmarkt, one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany and also one of the biggest. There are 5 or 6 other Christmas markets in the city, I think the one with the best ratings was the new one on the Neumarkt, close to the Frauenkirche.

It's great that you visit Saxony during Christmas since, IMHO, no one does Christmas better than the Saxons. Many of Germany's Christmas traditions were born, and most Christmas decorations used in a typical German Christmas are produced there, in the Ore Mountains to be precice. There you can find probably the most memorable Christmas experience, since Christmas is connected to the mining history of the area and celebrated like nowhere else. Every little town has a Christmas market. In every village you can find carvers and turners who sell Christmas decorations. The carvers are more in the western part, the turners in the eastern part of the mountains. Nutcrackers, candle arches and pyramids are everywhere, you can spend a fortune there if you want (how about a pyramid for 2.000€?). It's common to celebrate Christmas Mass in shutdown mines, and the highlight of Christmas in the Ore Mountains are huge processions of miners in traditional unforms, which sing chorals at the end of the procession in front of the churches.

Saxony also offers some unique culinary experiences during Christmas. The Stollen comes from Saxony and is good in every part of the country, not just in Dresden. The one produced by small bakeries is usually better. Pfefferkuchen is the local variant of the better known Lebkuchen. Saxon Pfefferkuchen comes from Pulsnitz, is handmade by 7 or 8 small manufactories, less aromatic than Lebkuchen but more chocolatey. Try the "Spitzen" with strawberry filling or the "Elisen". Another local product are "Liegnitzer Bomben", which you only get in Görlitz. That's some kind of Lebkuchen too, but from Silesia. After the war when the Silesians were expelled many of them settled in Görlitz (Eastern Saxony), and now Görlitz offers Silesian Christmas traditions.

Every Saxon town has a Christmas market, and since almost all Saxon towns preserved their historical markets they are usually pretty nice. The best ones are obviously in the Ore Mountains, the centers there are Annaberg-Buchholz and Freiberg. The one in Bautzen in Upper Lusatia, first mentioned in 1384 and one of the oldest, is also very nice.

What's also very memorable are the Christmas concerts. Remember that Saxony is also the heart of the Protestant Reformation. If you're lucky you could enjoy Bachs Christmas Oratorio in his own church in Leipzig.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 12:14 AM
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Ah, I see we have another Dresden/Saxony fan here on Fodor's. Welcome!

I second what Karasek said. Some more details:

That weekend is probably peak of Advent season. The Striezelmarkt at the Altmarkt square will be crowded. I'd still recommend to see it. Check out the booth that the gourmet restaurant Bean&Beluga have, last year it was by the arcades at the western side. Best (white) Glühwein IMO, absolutely delicious Baumkuchen and Florentiner. Also visit the small houses on an elevated place at the northeastern corner (next to Mc Donalds ;-) ) where the craftsmen demonstrate the manufacturing of wooden items and the guys from the bakers association show the making of the Stollen (free tasting, they're really good but only sell pieces/slices, not whole Stollen). If you're with kids don't miss the house where they bake/play (closer to the Kreuzkirche). Here is a link where you can get information on the special events every day on the Striezelmarkt:
http://www.alexander-und-partner.de/...is-24-12-2009/
I highly recommend the "Striezelmarktmusik" in the neighbouring Kreuzkirche every weekday (until 11 Dec) at 5 pm - peaceful, quiet, christmassy, short, free.

I agree with Karasek that the Christmas market at the Neumarkt (not Münzgasse) is special - very romantic, beautiful decorations, folks dressed traditionally, some booths sell unusual stuff.

There is also a medieval Christmas market in the so called Stallhof, the courtyard behind the mural "Procession of Princes", that I used to recommend - but not anymore. Costs a small entrance fee at weekends, the ambience is still romantic but I don't like it anymore since they changed the agency that organises it.

The most tacky market is IMO the one on Prager Straße. Not bad (and less expensive) is the one along the pedestrian zone Hauptstrasse across the river in the Neustadt. No crowds there. The church there (Dreikönigskirche) and shops in the alleys around the Hauptstrasse take part and organise a lot of events. Schedule from mid November on here: www.neustaedteradvent.de

Very romantic and artsy is IMO the relatively small Christmas market at Körnerplatz (near Blue Wonder Bridge, a 20 minutes tram #12 ride to Schillerplatz, the walk or bus #61,63 across the bridge). One of my favourites. There is also an exhibit on teddy bears in the top station of the suspension railway to Loschwitz. Great views from there, too. Info on the market here:
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-deutschla...loschwitz.html
and later this month the schedule (with concerts etc.) will be posted here:
www.elbhangfest.de

Besides Christmas markets - you know about the State Art Collections, don't you? http://www.skd.museum/en/homepage/index.html
The famous museums aside - don't miss the wonderful Christmas exhibit in the Saxon Folk Art museum: http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-ins...ung/index.html (click on "Easter and Christmas")

There will be performances of Bach's Christmas Oratorio in both Frauenkirche and Kreuzkirche that weekend. All sold out, I am afraid. But if you're interested don't hesitate to ask when there, maybe someone returned tickets. It happens (rarely).

The State Operetta Theatre has a Christmas show going on:
www.staatsoperette-dresden.de (Makes only sense if you speak German.)

Same goes for this: http://www.staatsschauspiel-dresden....eihnachtslied/
(wonderful, but in German)

Outside Dresden:

Yes, the Meissner Christmas market is also nice. Romantic ambience because of the picturesque old town.
www.meissner-weihnacht.de

On weekends there is a romantic Christmas market on the Fortress Königstein south of Dresden, in the "Saxon Switzerland" region. If the weather co-operates I highly recommend to visit this one - very scenic, too.

And then there are of course the markets in the Erzgebirge mountains. Freiberg is closest to Dresden, at the foot of the mountains, and it has to offer much more than just the Christmas market. Cathedral, terra mineralia exhibit, history and mining museum, beautiful old town ...
http://www.freiberg-service.de/veran...ristmarkt.html
Often concerts, e.g. on 11 Dec at 5 pm organ concert in the cathedral.

Kurort Seiffen is probably the most popular place for Christmas items. The weekend 11/12 Dec is peak season - Miner's parade, concert in the church, etc. Despite the crowds it is worth seeing, been there plenty of times, also with American friends.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 12:26 AM
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Continued ...

For Seiffen - http://www.seiffen.de/weihnachtsveranstaltungen.cfm (German only, sorry).

Annaberg-Buchholz is the largest town in the Erzgebirge mountains and has one of the nicest Christmas markets, a fantastic church (St. Annen), some interesting museums etc.
http://www.annaberg-buchholz.de/haup...2_o4/nav_f.htm

The highlightk, however, is IMO the Christmas market in Schwarzenberg, especially the Miner's parade at 11 Dec. Expect crowds, but it is worth it.
http://www.schwarzenberg.de/schwarze...0925162258.asp

The other Christmas markets in the area around Dresden are nice, but nothing special IMO. Pirna, Großenhain etc. Quite nice is Bautzen (the town itself is worth a trip, the Christmas market there is called "Wenzelsmarkt"), of course Görlitz as well. The Christkindlmarkt in Görlitz is a bit different from the other Saxon markets, it is "Silesian".

I.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 01:45 AM
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Wow - thanks so much you two.

I'm spinning now - wheeeeee
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 02:41 AM
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Lots of info in here that I am reading with attention because I'll be in the area again around the same time. This time I'm not staying in Dresden, but focusing on the smaller towns with Görlitz, Pirna, and Freiberg as bases. Total stay 10 days. Again, too short to see everything I'd like to although it is already my 6th or 7th trip (lost count). There is just too much to do and see in that region!!!

Karasek: What else are typical Silesian Christmas traditions I should look out for in Görlitz? Liegnitzer Bomben are noted! Is there a Christmas market over on the Polish side in Zgorzelec, too? I have four days in Görlitz, thus some time to explore. Zittau is definitely on the schedule. Otherwise I am struggling with an overwhelming amount of suggestions by Ingo and having a tough time to decide. ;-) @ Ingo.

Pirna's Christmas market seems to have a new addition this year, an artisans' market. Curious to see that. Königstein is also new to me.

Meißen's market is not big but very atmospheric. Town and castle and cathedral are always worth a visit. If you feel like having a Glühwein, have it at the stall of Meißen winemakers association (Winzergenossenschaft), they make their own from local wine. Impressions of last year's visit: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/f86bd/9743/

Bautzen is a gem. Absolutely recommended. Another page made after last year's visit: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/f86bd/129da/ Guess who was my guide.

Seiffen - worthwhile any time, even without special events. The centre of the Ore Mountains' woodworking tradition. Last year's visit and shopping spree documented here: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/f86bd/ab23/
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 04:29 AM
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Wow! Thanks for all of the info on the markets everyone!
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 06:50 AM
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@quokka
There are several Silesian, but also Bohemian traditions you can only find there. Actually, most of them are also Upper Lusatian traditions, since the region, together with Silesia, belonged to Bohemia for a long time. Weihnachtswürste (=Christmas sausages) are typical Silesian and Upper Lusatian. Weihnachtswürste are white sausages made with wine and slowly fried in butter. Cakes (also Stollen) with poppy seed are also typical Silesian and Upper Lusatian. You can get all kinds of Silesian dishes, like Schlesisches Himmelreich. The music played on the market is mainly Silesian and Bohemian, and there usually is a display of rare Bohemian nativity scene.

I don't know if there's a Christmas market in Zgorzelec. Probably not, since the town is pretty ugly, such markets aren't that popular outside of Germany anyway, and many Czechs and Poles visit the German Christmas markets along the border.

BTW: from Upper Lusatia in Saxony comes another German Christmas tradition: the Moravian star. You can buy them in Herrnhut (between Löbau and Zittau), the center of the Moravian church. And if you are there, don't miss the impressive Gottesacker (graveyard). A very strange experience, especially when it's dark and grey.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 09:11 AM
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I tried talking quokka into having Schlesisches Himmelreich last time but no such luck ... so the yummy meal was mine. ;-)

No, there is no Christmas market in Zgorzelec. The Polish come to Görlitz for the Christkindl market. Remember that Zgorzelec really was a part of Görlitz until 1945 and doesn't really have a historic centre, no urban feel.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 10:11 AM
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LOL Ingo - I have long admitted that that was a mistake!!!! ;-)

Karasek, thanks for the info. I will try all those goodies!

By the way, I own a Herrnhut star and it will be in my window during Advent. A souvenir I brought from a previous trip. I'd like to finally visit Herrnhut now. Is there decent public transport?

Has Zgorzelec really not developped an identity of its own during those 65 years? Hard to imagine.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 06:15 PM
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I have a star I bought in Annaberg, which I hang on/under the peak of the roof of my porch. I love seeing it there. Am fortunate to be going back to Annaberg this year, along with Bamberg and Leipsig (and Seifffen.) I really enjoy travelling in this part of Germany during the Christmas season.
I agree with Ingo that the medieval market in Dresden used to be very special. After the renovation, it just doesn't appeal to me. What a shame. Have a great time. CJ
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 10:50 PM
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@quokka
I don't know if there'a a decent public transport. Probably not. And Herrnhut isn't that interesting anyway, at least not if you don't have a connection to the church. It's just a little town, partly destroyed in WW2, with an interesting museum and the Gottesacker. Here is a pic of the somewhat eerie graveyard:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7...rlau325um2.jpg

If you are in the region try to visit Obercunnersdorf. It's a beautiful village with more than 300 listed buildings, so called "Umgebinde" houses. Here are some pics of the village:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/4...rlau006ps7.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7...rlau022im6.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/4953/oberlau042yi6.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/7...rlau036iv1.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2...rlau026cn7.jpg

Regarding Zgorzelec: it's hard for Poles to develop an identity in a region which was never Polish.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 12:42 AM
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I just tuned into this thread cos i saw the appeal to ingo, and I haven't been disappointed. what a wealth of information from you all - shame i won't be able to get there.

Perhaps another year? [I keep saying that!]
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 12:43 AM
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Hm... to an art historian the focus of whose research has been on protestant church architecture in all its varieties for almost 20 years Herrnhut is certainly of some interest. Let's see if I find a solution to the transportation problem.

Obercunnersdorf looks beautiful!

Aramis: Apologies for threadjacking! Hope we did not scare you away with all those details.
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 05:36 AM
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This thread is one in a million, bookmarked! Thanks
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 07:48 AM
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Such great info here. Ingo, wish we were meeting you at the markets this year! Did they change Stallhof since we were there?
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 08:44 AM
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Hehe, good to see so many of my Fodor's friends posting on this thread

DAX, you're not saying you'll visit Saxony at Christmas time sometime in the future?

Gomiki, would love to meet you and have Glühwein and Stollen with y'all again this year. I am not sure, but I think they changed the Stallhof market last year, so yes, since you were there. Really, it went downhill (but the whole concept of medieval markets did, not only in Dresden. It's sort of 'out'.)

Transportation to Herrnhut is pretty good. Take the train from Görlitz to Löbau where you take the bus to Zittau fifteen minutes later. (Or explore Löbau a bit? LOL) The whole trip by train and bus takes just under an hour, hourly connections.

I found Herrnhut to be quite interesting. And for quokka it is almost a *must* ;-)

I.

PS: How much time did you want to spend here? LOL Obercunnersdorf too??
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 08:56 AM
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"to an art historian the focus of whose research has been on protestant church architecture in all its varieties for almost 20 years Herrnhut is certainly of some interest. Let's see if I find a solution to the transportation problem."

I have been there via public transportation from Dresden. It's not that bad. You take the train to Löbau, then pick up a bus to Herrnhut - I got off at Zinzendorf platz. It takes about 90 minutes to two hours and the buses aren't frequent.

By the way, there's nothing really strange or eerie about the Moravian Gottesacker (or in English, we Moravians call it God's Acre). It simply fits into the Moravian belief in equality. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/God's_Acre Easter sunrise services at any of the God's Acres are something worth attending if you can.

I have ancestors (Bohemian) buried there and also in the God's Acre in Bethlehem, PA.

As for the Herrnhut stars, you can get them in many places now. The large ones can be fiddly to put together! We like the small ones that are already assembled to string on trees (or wherever you like). When I was in Herrnhut, the star factory visitor's center hadn't yet opened. http://www.herrnhuter-sterne.de/en.html I think it's open now.

Another souvenir you might be interested in is the Moravian Daily text, now printed in 50 languages http://www.moravian.org/daily_texts/ I bought mine at the bookstore near the entrance to the Herrnhut God's Acre. There is also a Moravian-run (as I recall) craft center/store in one of the streets not far from the church.

The church itself is plain - but I liked its simplicity.

quokka, if you visit Herrnhut, at some point you might be interested in visiting the Moravian historic district in Bethlehem PA. http://www.historicbethlehem.org/ind...ection_id=1925 including the church and Old Moravian Chapel. http://www.centralmoravianchurch.org/
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 09:38 AM
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@quokka
"to an art historian the focus of whose research has been on protestant church architecture in all its varieties for almost 20 years Herrnhut is certainly of some interest."

That's interesting. Maybe you are interested in some of these sites in Upper Lusatia too:

- Görlitz. The Holy Grave, a true to life replica of the grave of Jesus from 1500
http://www.elbflorenztours.de/images...gesgrabebl.jpg

- Bautzen. Cathedral, a interdenominational church used by Protestants and Catholics
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...autzen_101.JPG

- St. Marienthal + St. Marienstern. Two Catholic abbeys in Protestant Saxony (pretty unique), the latter closely connected to the Sorbian minority and also more interesting, the former maybe a bit more romantique
http://www.goerlitz-tourismus.de/cms...erluftbild.jpg

- Zittau, two medieval lenten veils, the older veil, from 1472 and pre- Protestant, is one of the biggest in Europe, the smaller one was made when the town was already Protestant
http://www.zittauer-fastentuecher.de...fastentuch.htm

- Cunewalde. Biggest Protestant village church in Germany
http://www.oberlausitzer-ferienhaus....-cunewalde.jpg
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Old Nov 12th, 2010, 09:59 AM
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While quokka is away and probably has no internet access ... thanks Karasek for all the advice. Quokka has seen the Holy Sepulchre in Görlitz and a good bit more of Görlitz, the town is actually one of quokka's bases on this upcoming trip. I recommended against St. Marienthal for this trip as it was heavily damaged by the recent flood. St. Marienstern is a bit out of the way, dito Cunewalde, planned for another trip in the future.

Bautzen - done a year ago, but is in for probably a few hours on this trip as not everything could be seen last time.

Zittau - is scheduled for this trip, even with a short trip into the Zittau mountains (Oybin).

Guess who's the guide? ;-)
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