Dreams of an English Summer: Lakes District and Yorkshire Trip Report
Jun 12th, 2006, 05:23 AM
#21
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Mmmmm, yes, I can taste that Wensleydale cheese and Branston pickle right now!
Mucky, I took your advice for the most part and didn't tip. Especially at the pub in Dent where I didn't think the staff was especially friendly. I did round up a 7.15 pound lunch at the tea room in Dent to 8 pounds and she told me she had change if I wanted it. When I told her that it was all for her, I may very well have received a look that said "he has more money than sense", just as someone talked about!
I also gave a pound to the bartender in York who really didn't do anything other than take my order. But he was so sweet in making suggestions. And, in all honesty, he was adorable. That never hurts, does it? He took the money cheerfully.
Mucky, I took your advice for the most part and didn't tip. Especially at the pub in Dent where I didn't think the staff was especially friendly. I did round up a 7.15 pound lunch at the tea room in Dent to 8 pounds and she told me she had change if I wanted it. When I told her that it was all for her, I may very well have received a look that said "he has more money than sense", just as someone talked about!
I also gave a pound to the bartender in York who really didn't do anything other than take my order. But he was so sweet in making suggestions. And, in all honesty, he was adorable. That never hurts, does it? He took the money cheerfully.
Jun 12th, 2006, 07:42 AM
#22
Branston pickle is a must. You can find it in the States pretty easily. Used to be mostly at Brit-specialty shops but now even my local super market carries it. Great as a condiment for a ploughman's, sandwich, etc - but it is also good in things like egg salad and tuna salad (I know you're a vegetarian but I'm just using that as examples)
Jun 12th, 2006, 08:41 AM
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No worry, janisj. I'm not strictly vegetarian as I do eat fish, eggs, and dairy. Will definitely look for it here.
Day 5, Wednesday: Today I did a driving tour of the area. Drove up to Kirkby Stephen. On the way there, passed many "Traveller" and Gypsy horse drawn carriages on their way to the Appleby Horse Fair. Many were stopped alongside the road in camps. Lots of their caravans were the ornately painted ones you see in movies and read about. They think nothing of driving their horse drawn vehicles on fairly major roads. Fascinating to be a part of. Many of them were in Kirkby Stephen itself. And they are a rough bunch, as you can imagine. Some of them have visibly lived a hard life.
I checked out some antiques shops in Kirkby Stephen. Then drove back toward Hawes to see some shops Anthony told me I'd missed. As a total surprise, I passed Pendragon Castle in the most stunning landscape. A link will be posted below. I had to let myself wander there for a while. It's a ruin of a Norman castle, but according to legend it belonged to King Arthur's father. Sheep huddle picturesquely about it. And a river runs nearby. Spent more time in Hawes and grabbed a tuna bap for lunch. Then back home to Smithy Fold. I stayed in with my book and had some granola bars for dinner. I must admit, I think I was feeling homesick
All a part of travelling solo.
Tomorrow, two nice elderly ladies from Harrogate and a perennial border to die for...
Day 5, Wednesday: Today I did a driving tour of the area. Drove up to Kirkby Stephen. On the way there, passed many "Traveller" and Gypsy horse drawn carriages on their way to the Appleby Horse Fair. Many were stopped alongside the road in camps. Lots of their caravans were the ornately painted ones you see in movies and read about. They think nothing of driving their horse drawn vehicles on fairly major roads. Fascinating to be a part of. Many of them were in Kirkby Stephen itself. And they are a rough bunch, as you can imagine. Some of them have visibly lived a hard life.
I checked out some antiques shops in Kirkby Stephen. Then drove back toward Hawes to see some shops Anthony told me I'd missed. As a total surprise, I passed Pendragon Castle in the most stunning landscape. A link will be posted below. I had to let myself wander there for a while. It's a ruin of a Norman castle, but according to legend it belonged to King Arthur's father. Sheep huddle picturesquely about it. And a river runs nearby. Spent more time in Hawes and grabbed a tuna bap for lunch. Then back home to Smithy Fold. I stayed in with my book and had some granola bars for dinner. I must admit, I think I was feeling homesick
All a part of travelling solo.Tomorrow, two nice elderly ladies from Harrogate and a perennial border to die for...
Jun 12th, 2006, 08:46 AM
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Jun 12th, 2006, 12:44 PM
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I just realized that I mispelled "bough" as "bow" above. Yikes! It must be the jetlag. Also, the Catholic Church in central Manchester is the "Hidden Gem," not "Secret Gem." Manchester folk can stop squirming
Thursday, Day 6: I said goodbye to Smithy Fold and made my way down to Settle and Gargrave (very nice little town) and up to Grassington (much too touristy for my taste) and over to Ripon. I stopped there for an hour or so and saw the Cathedral, the crypt of which is the oldest church structure remaining in Britain, or so said the guide. Lovely church. In fact, I was quite impressed with Ripon itself.
Then to Newby Hall which I wanted to see both for its gardens and Georgian House. Along the very long drive up to the parking area, two elderly ladies were stopped standing in the afternoon sun, timidly wanting my attention. So I stopped. It seems they took a series of public buses from Harrogate to see Newby Hall and they were left at the gate with a too long walk ahead of them. Of course I offered them a ride. They were endlessly thankful, as they were just about to turn around and walk back to the bus stop. Well, we toured the gardens and the house together. The older one was from Berlin originally and told of being buried for two hours in the rubble of her family's apartment. She was very sweet and a little senile. Every room of the house elicited the same response in her thick German accent: "How did they do this before modern tools? Now all they can make is egg boxes!" And in every room she would go over and read the information sheet in German, to which her friend asked "What does it say?" to which she responded "The same thing it says in English!" At several points the older one asked the other, "How do you know this young man?" and the other would reply, "He gave us a lift!" They only wanted me to come for tea in Harrogate, but warned that they hadn't yet done their baking. They were delightful. They wanted to know if I had a wife, and when I explained that I have a partner and that he's a "he" the one said, "Well, that's all a part of nature!" Pretty enlightened for eighty, I'd say. Although they were the central attraction of Newby Hall, the house is spectacular and the gardens a wonder. It's famous for its perennial border, but the rose pergola and other garden "rooms" are also exquisite. And all they can build today are egg boxes!! (I'll post a link below.)
I dropped them off in Boroughbridge, for which they were so grateful, and I was off to York.
I found my b & b, The Bloomsbury in the Clifton Road area with no problem. The car park had a spot in it, and I was set. Very impressed with The Bloomsbury. Immaculately clean. Great old townhouse in a quiet neighborhood about 3/4 mile from the walled city. 50 pounds per night.
I was just in time to walk to the Minster for Evensong (wearing jeans and my polo and fitting right in). Evensong at York Minster! Oh my! I won't even try to describe the perfection of it all. We were seated in the choir. It was the feast of William of York, and I couldn't help remembering that when I attended Evensong at Canterbury years before it was the Feast of the Translation of Thomas Becket. I do take it as the universe telling me something. The added benefit of attending Evensong is that tourists are charged 5 pounds to see the church! A travesty! What if someone just wants to go in and pray? I wonder. Well, the place is a masterpiece. And churches today? Egg boxes!! Dinner was a vegetable pasty. Then to bed.
Day 7, Friday: York is a bit of a Disney version of medieval England. I can see why people love it. Very compact. At street level are mainly giftshops or cafes. There's some good antiquing, and I enjoyed that. I saw the Museum Gardens with the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Also the art museum. A nice little collection. Spent most of the day strolling about, in and out of the several parish churches and shops, and, of course, returned for Evensong at the Minster. Dinner was a curry at the Evil Eye, an alternative feeling internet cafe/bar where I'd been sending my emails.
Well, despite the wonderful time I had, I was feeling lonesome for P and our dog. I was supposed to go on to the Peaks district for two days, but I was ready to go home. Back at the Bloomsbury, I got on the computer and the phone, did some arranging with Continental, sent some additional emails to hoteliers, and got on a flight the next day. The 200 dollars this would cost would more than be offset by car rental and hotel and food costs I wouldn't incur.
The inclination when I cut a trip short is to feel a bit like a failure. But I know that's not the way it is. I had a great, unforgettable experience. But, at this stage of the game, I think a week is my limit on my own. So that's an additional lesson learned.
Sorry this has seemed rushed at the end, but I'm off to the mountains tomorrow with P and dog (I'm lucky, I know!) and wanted to have this complete before I leave.
Thanks to all who've been reading and, especially, posting. I hope some of you will consider the English countryside for future trips. If so, I will be glad to be of service!
Thursday, Day 6: I said goodbye to Smithy Fold and made my way down to Settle and Gargrave (very nice little town) and up to Grassington (much too touristy for my taste) and over to Ripon. I stopped there for an hour or so and saw the Cathedral, the crypt of which is the oldest church structure remaining in Britain, or so said the guide. Lovely church. In fact, I was quite impressed with Ripon itself.
Then to Newby Hall which I wanted to see both for its gardens and Georgian House. Along the very long drive up to the parking area, two elderly ladies were stopped standing in the afternoon sun, timidly wanting my attention. So I stopped. It seems they took a series of public buses from Harrogate to see Newby Hall and they were left at the gate with a too long walk ahead of them. Of course I offered them a ride. They were endlessly thankful, as they were just about to turn around and walk back to the bus stop. Well, we toured the gardens and the house together. The older one was from Berlin originally and told of being buried for two hours in the rubble of her family's apartment. She was very sweet and a little senile. Every room of the house elicited the same response in her thick German accent: "How did they do this before modern tools? Now all they can make is egg boxes!" And in every room she would go over and read the information sheet in German, to which her friend asked "What does it say?" to which she responded "The same thing it says in English!" At several points the older one asked the other, "How do you know this young man?" and the other would reply, "He gave us a lift!" They only wanted me to come for tea in Harrogate, but warned that they hadn't yet done their baking. They were delightful. They wanted to know if I had a wife, and when I explained that I have a partner and that he's a "he" the one said, "Well, that's all a part of nature!" Pretty enlightened for eighty, I'd say. Although they were the central attraction of Newby Hall, the house is spectacular and the gardens a wonder. It's famous for its perennial border, but the rose pergola and other garden "rooms" are also exquisite. And all they can build today are egg boxes!!
(I'll post a link below.)I dropped them off in Boroughbridge, for which they were so grateful, and I was off to York.
I found my b & b, The Bloomsbury in the Clifton Road area with no problem. The car park had a spot in it, and I was set. Very impressed with The Bloomsbury. Immaculately clean. Great old townhouse in a quiet neighborhood about 3/4 mile from the walled city. 50 pounds per night.
I was just in time to walk to the Minster for Evensong (wearing jeans and my polo and fitting right in). Evensong at York Minster! Oh my! I won't even try to describe the perfection of it all. We were seated in the choir. It was the feast of William of York, and I couldn't help remembering that when I attended Evensong at Canterbury years before it was the Feast of the Translation of Thomas Becket. I do take it as the universe telling me something. The added benefit of attending Evensong is that tourists are charged 5 pounds to see the church! A travesty! What if someone just wants to go in and pray? I wonder. Well, the place is a masterpiece. And churches today? Egg boxes!! Dinner was a vegetable pasty. Then to bed.
Day 7, Friday: York is a bit of a Disney version of medieval England. I can see why people love it. Very compact. At street level are mainly giftshops or cafes. There's some good antiquing, and I enjoyed that. I saw the Museum Gardens with the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Also the art museum. A nice little collection. Spent most of the day strolling about, in and out of the several parish churches and shops, and, of course, returned for Evensong at the Minster. Dinner was a curry at the Evil Eye, an alternative feeling internet cafe/bar where I'd been sending my emails.
Well, despite the wonderful time I had, I was feeling lonesome for P and our dog. I was supposed to go on to the Peaks district for two days, but I was ready to go home. Back at the Bloomsbury, I got on the computer and the phone, did some arranging with Continental, sent some additional emails to hoteliers, and got on a flight the next day. The 200 dollars this would cost would more than be offset by car rental and hotel and food costs I wouldn't incur.
The inclination when I cut a trip short is to feel a bit like a failure. But I know that's not the way it is. I had a great, unforgettable experience. But, at this stage of the game, I think a week is my limit on my own. So that's an additional lesson learned.
Sorry this has seemed rushed at the end, but I'm off to the mountains tomorrow with P and dog (I'm lucky, I know!) and wanted to have this complete before I leave.
Thanks to all who've been reading and, especially, posting. I hope some of you will consider the English countryside for future trips. If so, I will be glad to be of service!
Jun 12th, 2006, 12:45 PM
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Jun 12th, 2006, 01:06 PM
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Guy, this was great, and thanks for taking the time to finish it. About the homesickness--I had a bit of that on my solo trip to Paris this winter, even though I was in daily e-mail and phone contact with my wife. I'm glad you see your experience as a lesson rather than a failure.
Looking forward to future trip reports ...
Anselm
Looking forward to future trip reports ...
Anselm
Jun 12th, 2006, 02:51 PM
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We're also excited about the GTG! Can't wait to meet you, Starrsville. P is trying to convince me that leaving tomorrow at 11:00 a.m. isn't going to put us right in the midst of a hurricane. I don't know what to think!!
Jun 12th, 2006, 02:57 PM
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Guy:
No, I'm afraid we aren't neighbors (would probably be nice, though) and I just took a stab in the dark about Wilton Manors <G>. And see, I was right!!
And somehow I suspect all those pubs you visited were more fun than Chardees, too!
Give that doggie TWO kisses.
No, I'm afraid we aren't neighbors (would probably be nice, though) and I just took a stab in the dark about Wilton Manors <G>. And see, I was right!!
And somehow I suspect all those pubs you visited were more fun than Chardees, too!
Give that doggie TWO kisses.
Jun 12th, 2006, 03:01 PM
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Starrsville--Doggie is allergic to vaccines and has special dispensations not to be up to date on rabies. Only our vet will board him. But thanks! It shouldn't be too long for him up in Jasper.
Intrepid--No, we're up in Boca. Very un-gay. Not far from Wilton Manors, though. Where DO you live?
Intrepid--No, we're up in Boca. Very un-gay. Not far from Wilton Manors, though. Where DO you live?
Jun 12th, 2006, 03:03 PM
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Well, while we're on the topic of the GTG, I won't be able to make it after all. We're having a family dinner to celebrate my husband and my 25th anniversary (my 50th birthday is the day before the GTG, and the anniversary a few weeks later).
Jun 12th, 2006, 03:12 PM
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I enjoyed your trip report and especially your account of the elderly German ladies. Castles, grand houses, gardens, museums, nature walks all make for a wonderful trip, but the kind of personal encounter you experienced is priceless.
