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Down + Dirty trip report:Paris, Burgundy,Lyon
Many thanks to all of you for encouraging me to spend more time in Burgundy en route to Lyon. Fantastic and wish I had spent a few more days in the area...
Paris: Stayed at Hotel L'Anglois near the Opera. Rooms need work,helpful staff, great old elevator. FINALLY took a tour of the Opera house in English. Loved it. Also took a Degas (Thanks!) walking tour of the Marais one day and the Right Bank another. Really enjoyed the Marais. Got out to Giverny the third day--brisk and cold-great getaway Burgundy-stayed at the very charming La Chouette (L.Caron's inn). We were her only mid-week guests, so the staff gave us the keys after dinner and we had full run of the place. What a lovely spot...(PIcked-up the car at Sens and drove there-next time I would pick-up the car at Fountainbleu and drive a bit more--Avis was comepletely disorganized in Sens--spent a good part of the day just getting the car despite having all the paperwork ready months before. Guessing that 'F-Bleu" gets more tourists and would be ready for us.) Took day trips to Auxerre and the area--really impressed. Good self-guided walking tour of Auxerre-very helpful tourist info. there.Had dinner in Sens at La Madeleine--Michelin rated--very elaborate noveau French cuisne. Memorable-- Drove to Beune and stopped for lunch at Les Ramparts , another elaborate one, walked Beune--could have stayed there a day, but on to Dijon. Followed the owl, took a tour of vineyard arranged by the Tourist Info center-great way to spend an afternoon. On to Lyon via train...interestintg city. Thanks Michel In Paris for your tips. Walked the Vieux Quarter, lunched at Les Halles, visited the Resistance Museum ( excellent) and the wonderfully uncrowded Beaux Arts museum, took a bus to medieval Perrouges ( ask at the Tourist Office about that)--nice getaway from an interesting if a bit beat-up city. Back to Paris and stayed at the wonderful Hotel St.Jacques in the Latin Quarter. THanks to the poster who recommended it. It's been renovated recently and not only are the rooms beautifully appointed but I had a BIG STALL shower and TWO sinks in the HUGE bathroom. Brigitte at the front desk is a tourist's dream come true..The only drawback to the St Jacques is it is NOT air conditioned. I could not stay there any later in the year, but what a find at any other time of the year. Walked the Latin Quarter---had the best meal of the trip at Bistro Paul Bert. Casual, interesting, local. You MUST make a reservation. Now home and jet-lagged |
Glad you had a nice vacation.
Now for my rant. It is Fontainebleau, not Fontainebleu. The end is pronounced "blow" like in eau, cadeau, bateau, château... Please stop with the "blew". |
HOT, how is the food these days at Chouette? Does she still have the Chineese chf?
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Half a day in BeAune and half a day in Dijon, that is way too short! I'm afraid you'll have to come back. ;-)
What about the wine tour with the TO? I'd like to know more please. Glad you enjoyed it. :-) |
Spent three days in Dijon didn't include all the details--tons of walking , EAster Sunday Mass, etc
Would love to have spent more time in Beune Cigale, the food at Chouette's was very good and the chef is Asian.His name is Dasuke Tnagaki. Assuming he is Japanese. |
Definately Japanese as is his name but he was very tall and from the distance, he looked Chineese. He and Caron were talking by her car before she was heading pack to Paris
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I wouldn't count on any car agency being organized based on # of tourists it sees...our worst situation was with a Hertz in Paris.
If you do rent from Fontainebleau next time, do stop and visit some of the smaller towns, like Moret-sur-Loing, as well as the chateau of Vaux le Vicomte or the ruins of Blandy les Tours. Just north of Sens is the lovely countryside Manoir de l'Onde, a Logis de France, outside of Villeperrot. Excellent cuisine, restful surroundings, heated & covered pool. |
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