The Dordogne is beautiful - you'll have a wonderful time!

Yes, la Belle Etoile is right on the river (though the road runs between the hotel and the river, but nothing else does). We didn't stay there, but it's a great location and the town is cute.

We stopped at Limeuil, because it was close to our overnight stop in Tremolat. There are more interesting towns. We spent an afternoon taking a driving tour through Belves (ok) and Monpazier (very cute) to Chateau de Biron; I would choose that over Limeuil.

For a great dinner view, consider Le Relais des Cinq Chateaux, in Vezac. From our table at dinner, we could see the lights of Castelnaud and Meyressac, the cliffside at la Roque, and those of Domme just peeking over the edge of the cliff.

On the two-hour dinners, if you eat later, as the French do, your looking-around time will be pretty much done (due to darkness or places being closed) by the time dinner rolls around. Also, I'm guessing there are pizza or crepe places (we ate at a couple for lunch, but I don't know if they're open for dinner) if you want a faster meal.

I think I'll be able to handle a few 2-hour dinners. I guess I was just remembering one particular night when the moon was coming up over the estuary at St. Mawes, Cornwall and I was stuck inside. Thanks for the tips on Limeuil--I think I was going on a picture I'd seen somewhere. I'm going to print out several of these Dordogne threads and make dots and notes on a xerox map.

For some reason I'm still unable to reply to Ger's posts. Wanted to say I had gone into all the picture links and LOVED them. Would love to see the wisteria on the old stone buildings. Maybe if I'm there in early May? Also cannot reply to the 'what book to read' post. First heard of 'Pillars of the Earth' (Follette?) on this board 3 years ago and finally read it. Great inspiration on the cathedrals. I've also been reading both fiction and biographies on Eleanor of Aquitaine.