Dordogne-Lot - where to stay east of Sarlat area
 

Our itinerary is all in place except for 2 days (one overnight) when I would like to see the sites east of Perigord Noir. We are staying one week at a gite in Cenac and I want to spend two days touring sites like Pech Merle, Rocamadour, Padirac, St Cere, Castelnau-Bretenoux, Carennac,and maybe even as far as Figeac. I don't know how much of this we can cover comfortably in two days of driving. We will need to work around reservations at Pech Merle (not yet made) and want to see Rocamadour either early or late in the day to avoid crowds.I would appreciate any advice on an itinerary, which places are must sees, and where would a good stopover be. Any hotel and restaurant suggestions would be appreciated.We can't wait to go!!!

I am interested as well...we will be planning to visit the Dordogne-Lot region next May. Just out of curiousity...where is Cenac situated? We were hoping to find a gite not too far from Sarlat.

Le Vieux Logis-it's a beautiful hotel in a bucolic setting. Keep in mind that it is expensive but worth the splurge.

While I agree that Le Vieux Logis is wonderful - we were there on Monday for their fantastic 32 euro lunch of many courses, worth twice the price - it is NOT east of Sarlat, but almost an hour west. So good for seeing sights between Tremolat and Bergerac, but not the Lot

Crazy4travel, Cenac is at the foot of Domme, on the river Dordogne, south of Sarlat. Depending on when you might be there, it gets very busy. Domme is one of the most visited villages in the area, and some of that spills over into Cenac.

Finally, I dont know that you will need to 'work around' reservations at Pech Merle, as they are not difficult to get.

We are scheduled for a 10-day vacation in the Sarlat/Dordogne area in early fall and my wife was able to find and book a nice cottage in the village of La Roque Gageac, which according to our map is immediately south of Sarlat and northwest of Cahors.

As it was, for once, my wife who did all the planning for this real 10-day vacation in early fall, I have no idea whether we chose a nice location. The website is certainly nice. My wife thinks it's a good location, but what does she know, she doesn't even read the forums here. Kidding aside, I am following this thread for information and tidbits.

Susan:

We will make a lunch reservation for Le Vieux Logis when in the area in Sept. My friends who live N/E of Paris on the edge of Champagne will be spending 3 nights while I am in Carlucet. Perhaps you would like to join us there or for dinner at La Maynardie? The French friends have just visited me, here in Asheville. We had a great time.
Joan

Hi Peg,

In which Cenac will you be staying?
There are at least 4.

Near where?

((I))

You can certainly visit all the places you mention from a base in Cénac, but they will be long days and it would be better to base yourself east of Sarlat, as you surmise, to see them.

Carennac is a delightful town. So are Martel and St-Céré. They would all make a good base.You may want to add Collonges-la-Rouge to your list of places to visit as well.

I agree with St.Cirq, especially about Carennac, and I recommend dinner a/o lunch at the hotel Pont de l'Ouysse just out of the small town of LaCave. We stayed there for a week to explore the area you are interested in.

I'll just concur with the others about staying near Carennac - it's one of our favorite towns. Like St Cirq said, you could visit these places as two day-trips from Cenac, but it would take some careful planning to do that. Most sites have lunch closings, so you need to work around that. We've stayed in a Gite near Cenac for 8 weeks since '97, and we visited Carennac, Autoire, Loubressac, Martel, Montal, St Cere, Castelnau Brentoux, & La Cave as 1 overnight trip.

Stu Dudley

Hi Stu...we just got back from Tuscany and used your notes for driving the area. We had a wonderful time and the detour via Monticchiello was the most lovely drive I had ever taken. Did you finish your notes for the Dordogne and Lot? I am anxious to read your report as I know that you have spent extensive time there. We are planning for next May...likely May 15-27.

Thank you all for your responses. Ira, the Cenac is the one near Domme. My guess is that from Cenac to Pech Merle would be about 1:45 hours. Does that sound right? Would Cenac to Rocamadour be about the same? It is hard to figure mileage and traffic on these roads!

I like the idea of Carennac as our overnight stop but wonder if it is too much to try to see Figeac and Pech Merle as well as the more northern sites (Rocamadour, padirac,etc. St Cirq, Stu, and others - do you have any hotel ideas for Carennac or St Cere?

We visited the Cahors/Pech Merle/Figeac area several times from Cenac. I think it's less than 1 3/4 hrs, but that would be a good amount of time to budget for the trip.

In St Cere we stayed at the Coq Arlequin, which is right in town. We dined at the Michelin 1 star les Trois Soleils de Montal, which is also a hotel - but it's out of town a bit. My Michelin Guide lists the Auberge de Vieux Quercy in Carennac.

CRAZY
My Dordogne itinerary has been completed for several years, but I updated it last October. My Languedoc one is finished also - it turned out to be 35 pages. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy. Do so soon, however, I'm leaving for a 5 week vacation in Italy & France next week.

Stu Dudley

Peg..may I suggest The Domaine de la Rhue, a restored farm about 5kms from Rocamadour..pool, hiking trail to Roc, gigantic rooms and bathrooms...easy ride to Padirac, Autoire, Lubresac, Carennac and the entire eastern part of the Dordogne...also easy ride south to the Lot.
I originally found it in Hotels of Character and Charm. Also in Karen Brown's. Run by a charming young couple..outstanding breakfasts, etc.

Stu T.
http://www.karenbrown.com/property.asp?propid=9747

Stu, I didn't realize that you had a Languedoc itinerary as well! You are a busy man. Could you email the Languedoc itinerary to [email protected]? Your Provence and Dordogne ones have been tremendously helpful.

Stu and Tower, thanks for your hotel suggestions. I will check them out. Tower, where did you eat dinner when you stayed at Domaine de la Rhue?

Hi Peg,

>...the Cenac is the one near Domme.<

Thanks.

Neither ViaMichelin nor Mappy responded with that one when entering "Cenac".

They can find your Cenac under "Cenac et St. Julien".

((I))

Ira

You drove through Cenac when you visited Domme...

Stu Dudley

Peg...across the highway a mile or two is Chateau Roumegouse...a delighful old property..excellent dinners, country prices. We also ate at less elaborate settings at Beau Site in Rocamadour (AFTER the tourists left), and at a few other little cafes and I did not record the names...but there are choices.
Stu T.

Stu,

Thank you for the Dordogne info...you are a lucky man!! 5 weeks in Tuscany and France!! I unfortunately have had to whittle my vacations down...what used to be 14-17 days are now 10-11 day mini vacations. We really enjoyed our 10 day Tuscany/Umbrian adventure but it leaves you longing for more.
Enjoy your holiday!!..and thanks again.

>Ira

You drove through Cenac when you visited Domme...

Stu Dudley<

True, but I think I sneezed and missed it, Stu. :)

((I))

Yes Ira. the town we are staying in is Cenac et St. Julien.

Thank you all for your help with my itinerary. Tower, we decided to stay at Domaine de la Rhue outside Rocamadour. It looks lovely and is very centrally located. We intend to go up to Rocamadour for dinner and spend some time walking around without the crowds. Our plans now are to drive from Cenac et St Julian directly to Pech merle and take a morning tour ou the caves. Then I would like to take the drive down the Cele valley that Stu Dudley recommends. i can't figure out how long that may take as both Michelin and mappy only send you via the main road. If we have enough time we will poke around Figeac for a short time. Then drive to the hotel and have dinner in Rocamadour. The next day I think we will just leisurely visit all the wonderful villages - Autoire, Loubressac, ST Cere, Bretenau, and Carennac. i wanted to see Padirac in the morning but I'm afraid that might make our village tour too rushed. We will then head back to our gite in Cenac at the end of the day. Any recommendations on the best route back - D803 along the river through Soulliac or on the southern side of the river? Again mappy and michelin aren't very helpful. i can't believe we are leaving in a week! Peg

Domaine de la Rhue is a great choice! Enjoy!

The latest edition of France magazine has a feature on the Cele Valley. I think the Cele & Lot will take about the same time from where the roads break off south of Cabrerets.

I would try real hard to visit Padirac - it's quite different from most caves you might visit. If you get to Pech Merle early in the AM and take an early tour, you should be able to fit in Padirac in the afternoon before you get to Rocamadour. Rocamadour is very touristy - we always make a special effort when walking down the main street, to never look at the shops on the street level - we always look one story up to really enjoy the beautiful architecture of Rocamadour (or any touristy village, for that matter). If this was my trip, I'de get to Rocamadour at 7:30, tour the town, then have dinner at 8:30, and enjoy the town again after dinner.

Stu Dudley

be sure to try out the wonderful hiking trail (signposted in the back of the Domaine de la Rhue..takes you onto the top level of Rocamadour in about an hour or less...lovely trail through the forst and farmland...at the top level, you can go down two levels..or as Stu D. says, get off at the second level, less crowded.
Also, fo a memorable splurge, try the Chateau Roumegouse that I suggested. Your Domain hosts will make the reservation for you.
Padirac is very close to the Domaine and is a mind blower of a chasm...a boat ride through the vaerns is part of the admission...wonderful photo ops of the stalagtite formations.
Stu T.

Peg; meant "caverns", above....also if you're in Cahors down in the Lot Region, there is a marvelous little "Resistance" Museum off the main square..worth a visit. Two actual Resistance members opened it and are there daily!
Stu T.

May I second/third the OPs urging you to fit in Padirac somehow? We went to this area about 3 years ago, and along with Lascaux 11 it was the highlight of our trip. THe villages you mention, though lovely, are quite similar to each other, whereas Padirac is quite unique. You ask for "must sees" - this is one!

Thanks for all your helpful hints! I will reconsider and try to fit in Padirac. Do you need reservations there or would a call the day before be enough? I can't believe we are leaving Friday!

We went to Padirac in May,[3 years ago so my info might be a bit out of date] and though there were queues, there was no need to book. going on Friday, you will be out of school holidays, so you should be OK. Ther wre a couple of nice cafes there I remember, but I don't know what they are like now. Have a great trip, and don't forget to tell us all about it when you come back!

Good Afternoon Peg. I am looking at renting a Gite near Cenac next May. I know that some people are very guarded about giving the names of the places they rent. I have tried to contact the owner for Gite Laurier in Cenac and have not gotten a response. I was looking at the Cottage de Capiol but it may be a little smaller than what we would like. Outdoor space such as a nice patio is a real must for us. I wonder if I could ask where you are renting.

CRAZY4TRAVEL, did you ever get a copy of Stu's Dordogne tips? I've been cruising these boards preparing for my first trip to France (and first trip to the boards!) and saw him mention it a few times. I emailed him but I believe he's in France already and looks like Peg may be the same. If you do happen to have a copy can you please send to [email protected]? MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE! -Sabsong