Dordogne Hotels & Itinerary - Need Help
 

I'm planning a two week trip to the Dordogne/Perigord area in May. I have poured over former threads here, so have a good idea of what I want to see. I had decided to use the Hotel La Madeleine as one of my bases, so when I called today and was told they are completely full for May, I panicked!

There have been some nice reviews lately for the Hotel Le Renoir (a Great Western), so I quickly got on their site and booked. Has anyone stayed there and can recommend?
I would like to stay in Sarlat at least for a few days, as I enjoy large towns more where I stay rather than daytrip. Since I have 2 weeks, I thought I could move around a bit. I would rather change hotels than drive too much and backtrack (especially since I'll be solo).

After checking train schedules, Angouleme seems to be the easiest for me from Paris (I'm not staying there, and want to get to my destination as early as possible from airport). The TGV only takes 2 hours from Paris, and I'd be there at 2:30. I booked the Mercure Hotel de France, which has some good reviews on Trip Advisor, and looks nicely located to train station and car pickup. Besides, Angouleme looks nice for an afternoon, and good nights sleep to get over jetlag. Then I would drive to Brantome/Bourdeilles the next day and stay a couple of days. Has anyone stayed at the Hostellerie des Griffons in Bourdeilles?

Now, after that is where I'm not sure. I could stay a little further north another couple of nights (Manoir d'Hautegente or Chateau de Fleurie?) - they are both fairly close to Lascaux II, which I'd like to see.
Or just go on straight to Sarlat and stay a little longer there. Of course I would like to see the caves and the Vezere valley area, which I guess is good from Sarlat.

Also, want to see the chateaux around Beynac, Domme,etc. If I stay in Sarlat for 3 nights, would it be silly to also stay somewhere on the river (like La Roque Gageac or Beynac)?

AND, I want to go to the area of Martel, Collenge-la-Rouge some of the time (probably Rocamadour). Is that far enough from Beynac, etc. to stay a couple of nights?

I want to end up in Cahors to return car and spend the night at Hotel Terminus - and train back to Paris (a 4-hour trip) - probably spend the night at an airport hotel.

I know this sounds like alot of hotels! I'm torn about it, as everywhere sounds so lovely to stay at - these decisions are always a problem for me. Any feedback and opinions will be greatly appreciated!

If you are interested in procelain, you might want to stay in Limoges and visit the procelain museum rather than stay in Angoulême. The Hotel des Griffons is beautifully located at the end of the old bridge in Bourdeilles, but I can't say anything about its accomodations. If large town are preferable, you could stay in Périgueux, which has a nice Renaissance center around the cathedral. The distances are not that great that you need to stay in or near Montignac to visit Lascaux II. All the areas of interest that you mention (caves, Beynac, Domme) are a short drive from Sarlat. My suggestion is to arrive in Limoges, stay in Périgueux while visiting the northern part of the Périgord (Brantôme, Bourdeilles, etc.) and then stay in Sarlat while visiting the southern part of the Périgord.

The Hôtel le Renoir is a good choice, particularly if you're going to have a car, because parking in Sarlat can be a nightmare, even in May. It's just a few minutes outside the medieval center of the town, and though you'd have to walk through a somewhat gritty part of the city, it's unsafe or anything, just rather unattractive. The hotel is basically on a residential street. And while I've never stayed there, my experience with Best Westerns in Europe has been uniformly positive.

I don't know the Hostellerie des Griffons, but Boourdeilles is a good choice of location. The château there is wonderful.

Sarlat is only a little more than a half-hour from Lascaux, so there's no need to make another base. Ditto for Beynac and La Roque-Gageac, which are even closer to Sarlat, though if you wanted to be in a small town by the river, either one would be a good choice. Domme would be another excellent option.
If you want to explore the Rocamadour-Gouffre de Padirac - Collonge-la-Rouge - Martel area, yes, it would be worth it to drive over there (a couple of hours) and set up camp there for a night or two. The Domaine de la Rhue is a wonderful place to stay in that area. From there it's only an hour and a half or so to Cahors on the new leg of the A20. The Terminus is a great choice - I assume you'll eat at the restaurant there (one of my favorites in all of France).

Happy planning!

Thanks, Michael and St. Cirq, for the prompt replies. Maybe I'll check into the train schedules and hotel for Limoges. The timing, etc. was perfect for Angouleme - that's why I picked it. I'm never great on my first day! I actually preferred to train straight to Perigueux, but it was more complicated, with late arrival. If I were staying in Paris, I would definitely do Perigueux instead. I plan to visit it while in Bourdeilles. Guess I will try the Hostellerie des Griffons (Karen Brown guide recommends it highly).

St. Cirq, I was glad you replied, since I know you know all about the area (you should write a guidebook, seriously!).
One of the reasons I want to stay in Sarlat is because of the parking nightmare. As a daytrip, I think I might give up and just forget about it.(That happened to me in Uzes, which I still regret). However, I still wonder if I should also stay a couple of nights in one of the smaller villages on the river. I might regret not doing that, too. I hope Le Renoir will be all right - I'm so disappointed about the Madeleine. Do you think the Couleuverine might be better for Sarlat, or any other suggestions?

I will definitely contact Domaine de la Rhue for that base. Yes, I certainly will plan to eat dinner at the Terminus.
Would love any more ideas anyone has, as this forum is better than the guidebooks!

Hi, Sue:

I wouldn't be very upset about the Madeleine not being available - the Le Renoir is a lovely place, and really, that five-minute walk into town isn't bad at all. Le Couleuvrine, while right in the old town, is nice, but not AS nice.

Have you looked into taking the TGV to Bordeaux (there are often 25€ PREM fares) and then the pokey train to Périgueux (where you can pick up a car from AutoEurope and other supplier?). It makes for a long day - about 6 hours from landing in Paris at least - but at least you're *home* at the end of it. Personally, I'd skip Angoulème, and even Périgueux, though the latter does have some appeal in the old section of town.

Personally, I'd spend a couple of nights in a village as well as in Sarlat. You might go home regretting that you didn't spend an evening meandering on the banks of the Dordogne and enjoying the panoply of stars above. As mentioned, Beynac, La Roque-Gageac, and Domme are good choices, but if you add in the villages along the Vézère you have even more options, like Le Bugue and Limeuil. There are almost too many possibilities!

BTW, speaking of La Couleuvrine - do you know what that means? There are couleuvres all over the Périgords and you might even be spooked by one in your travels.

Snake?? Is it a dangerous one? A pretty one? I like harmless pretty ones.

No, St. Cirq, I'll have to look that one up! Thanks for reaffirming Le Renoir, and also a village stay. I think I will do that, even if they are close together.

However, don't know if I can handle the longer, later train ride, plus car rental, plus my jetlag, plus being alone- I'm quite a bit older than you are!

Congratulations for adding Martel and Collonges la Rouge to your itinerary. As long as you're there, DO stop in at Turenne -- stunning hill town -- and perhaps Bretenoux and/or Beaulieu sur Dordogne. Anyway all the towns in that area are wonderful, highly varied (between whitish limestone, ochrey sandstone and warm, yellowish some-other-stone)

If you want a distinctly unusual base outside Beaulieu sur Dordogne, try the Chateau du Doux -- a robber baron's 1902 chateau turned into a modest but comfortable hotel. Not known for its (similarly modest) food, it is the architecture, gardens and hilltop setting that are exceptional.

If you want to contact me on [email protected] I can furnish more info about this corner of France......

Oh my gosh, Sue, if you're older than I am, you're old;)

A couleuvre is a snake, a serpent. Usually a big fat, long, pretty one. They abound in the Périgord especially in summer. They are completely harmless, but BIG! We get surprised by them regularly when sitting by the pool in summer - NOT usually a fun experience. I guess a couleuvrine is the female variety - not sure of the implications of that!

Consider including Tarassson in your itinerary. Lovely riverside town with spectacular gardens.

Couleuvre is feminine, so that couleuvrine would not be the feminine form. According to le Petit Robert, it was a piece of field artillery under the Ancien Régime.

The piece of artillery called a couleuvrine was apparently given this name because of its form, which resembled a snake. It is also possible that another meaning of couleuvrine is or was a diminutive form of couleuvre, i.e. a small couleuvre.

By the way, there is no reason why couleuvre and couleuvrine can't both be feminine.

Glad I've been warned about the couleuvre and coulevrines! I freak out about snakes, even though I live in South Florida where we have plenty.

Hope I get to go, at least find hotels.Every one of the hotel people must have departed the lovely Dordogne,
as none of them answer telephone or my e-mails, or faxes. Well, I'll keep trying. The only reason I have the reservation at the Le Renoir is because it's a Great Western, as I used their website (which is great, by the way).
Anyway, I've about decided on Les Griffons in Bourdeilles (if I ever hear back), Sarlat, La Roque Gageac/Belle Etoile (if I ever hear back), Domaine de la Rhue (if I ever hear back)- and
the Terminus in Cahors (who I WAS able to reach!). Anyway, I'm really excited about this trip (in spite of the dollar/euro). To heck with that.

Sue,

My wife & I stayed at Le Renoir for 3 nights in October 2004. It is located about 2-3 blocks from the "square" that borders the historic center of town. While the entrance is on a side street, the hotel faces the main road in town (it's easy to find). We parked within a 30 second walk of the hotel during our entire stay, even on Saturday. The 4-5 minute walk to the town center is uneventful but far from unsafe or seedy; you'll pass a theater, pharmacy, hotel, and about 5 optical shops (as is the norm in France...what's with the obsession with eyeglasses?)

The common areas are pleasant and clean, as are the rooms. We had a simple double with a spotless bathroom and modern ammenities. While we chose our own restaurants, the staff made dinner reservations for us each night. They also provided logistical info for neighboring towns.

La Roque Gageac is a short drive from Sarlat. It's a beautiful town, but I would make it a day trip from Sarlat. We found Brantome a pleasant base for the region's northern towns.

There is much to see in this area. I hope you have a great trip.

j.

Josh, thanks so much for your input. I was happy to hear about your experience at Le Renoir. And that the parking was easy! I might rethink staying at La Roque Gageac, and just stick to Sarlat, since they are so close. It's certainly easier to settle down in one place. Especially since I'll be staying in the Brantome area and also around Rocamadour. Thanks!

St. Cirq, do you think I might need air conditioning in May? I'll be there the first 2 weeks. That just occured to me, as some of the rooms at the Renoir have A/C and some do not. I think mine does not, as it is one of the least expensive, standard rooms. The rooms with A/C are about 25 euros more.

We stayed 3 days at a chambre d'hote on a goose (raised for their liver) farm in the village of Carlux, 10 km NE of Sarlat. Took day trips to Lascaux, Beynac, etc. Nice place. Good locus of operations. Never trouble parking in Sarlat.

There is the most unbelievable place to stay in the Dordogne. Don't miss Chateau de Chauvac which is a luxury bed and breakfast near the Roman village of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne. A magically romantic place, close to all the sites. Check out the website at www.chauteauchauvac.com.

Sue, we rented a house in Le Bugue last May. We did not need A/C...and I'm not one who deals well with heat. Most evenings we needed light jackets or sweaters to go out.

jimrt: If I am not mistaken I saw on a property board that the Chateau de Chauvac is also for sale. Maybe Sue4 should take it off the owners' hands and the Fodorites can all hang out there. That part of Correze is heaven.......

Intersting place, jim.

www.mappy.com says that it is about 1 1/2 hr drive from Sarlat-la-canade, though.

Sue - you most definitely will not need A/C in May in the Dordogne - you may need a nice fire at night, though. Seriously, it doesn't really warm up until late June or July, unless it's a very unusual weather pattern. I would not pay 25 extra for A/C.

And while that château may be lovely, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne is not at ALL within the main area you'll want to be touring. You'll be quite happy at Le Renoir, I'm sure.

Thanks again for all the replies. Glad to hear I won't need A/C, and I'll be sure to take warm enough clothes! I never seem to be able to get that just right, as I usually go to France in May or late October. I'm so excited about this trip, and I'm sure will be asking some more questions in the next several months. Hope I can get through to some of these hotels, especially Domaine de la Rhue and Les Griffons. I was so happy tonight in perusing some old posts to see a "rave" about Les Griffons from Patrick (who posts on here often, and seems to like to stay in nice places).

Sue4: We were considering staying at Les Griffons last year (but finally chose Perigord Vert in Brantôme). It closes for the winter, so that is why you haven't heard. According to the website, it will reopen on April 8. It does look very nice and the location is perfect, but I can't comment on the rooms or the food.

As to whether to spend a night on the Dordogne or stay the whole time in Sarlat, you might want to consider a night in Domme at the Esplanade. See Ger's (OReilly) posts on her stay there.

We rented a place in La Rocque-Gageac for two weeks and loved it. We dined several times a La Belle Etoile, and it is very good indeed, but I'm not sure how tranquil the rooms would be as it is right on the main (and only) road through town. Domme, on the other hand, would be a wonderful place once all the daytime visitors hace gone, and the Esplanade's views across the valley are marvellous.

Laverendrye, did you like the Perigord Vert? I looked at it on the Logis de France website, as well as La Chabrol in Brantome. Both looked nice on the site. So far, I've booked 5 nights in Sarlat at the Renoir. May 8 must be a French holiday, and things are booking up for that weekend.

After Sarlat I would like to spend 1 or 2 nights on the river, as I mentioned.
Tried for the Belle Etoile on the Logis de France site, but just had e-mail back that they are full already, and then another e-mail that the hotel is closed until March, and they can't get in touch with them. So I don't know!
I think the Esplanade in Domme would be lovely, however, I get a little nervous about the ride up there (is it VERY steep?) Narrow doesn't bother me much, but steep does, in a manual car, with cars in back of me! Anyway, one night there, with the beautiful view, would be nice. Let me know your opinion about the road up to Domme for a nervous person (from flat Florida)!

Sue: I highly recommend the Esplanade in Domme. I stayed there earlier this year and loved it. The restaurant is excellent! I'll top my trip report for you.

PLEASE do NOT worry about the drive up to the village - I have experienced far worse than that. You'll get used to it after a couple of tries. I would recommend a decent car - try to rent a VW and avoid the Fords!

regards Ger

Thanks Ger, for the reply. I have read your trip report, in fact, several times previously - wonderful. The L'esplanade really does sound nice, and I would do the half-board option, too.
Guess I could manage the drive up, albeit fearfully. I remember last May when I was in Provence, I parked my car at the bottom of the medieval city in Vaison -la -Romaine, and schlepped my smallest bag up the hill to the hotel. I wonder how Domme compares with Vaison!
Anybody know?

I was in Vaison in Oct/Nov (lovely town!). Domme is definately easier as the streets are much wider and straighter. There is a winding road from the base of the hill to the town gates which is not bad at all. Then you go through the gateway and have a bit of a climb to the town square, which is flat, then another climb up to the hotel.

Just remember, its not YOUR clutch - just floor it :)

regards Ger

Sue4: We stayed one night at the Perigord Vert and enjoyed the stay. Our room was quite comfortable and the food good. We dined outside in the garden terrace. The Chabrol is nicely situated on the river, and I understand that its restaurant is very good. It's 3 stars as opposed to 2 stars for the Perigord Vert I think either would be fine, and quite a bit cheaper than the Moulin de L'Abbaye.

I wouldn't worry about driving up to Domme. I've encountered many steeper and narrower roads than you will find there. You won't regret staying there.

Well, I'm happy to report that I've been confirmed at my hotels, and have printed confirmations - most of them.
So I guess the closed hotels do check their e-mail! I've decided as follows:

2 nights - Les Griffons - Bourdeilles
5 nights - Le Renoir - Sarlat
2 nights - l'Esplanade - Domme
2 nights - Domaine de la Rhue -
Rocamadour
2 nights - Terminus- Cahors
last night - Paris or CDG

I still haven't completely decided about the first night - training to Angouleme OR Perigueux. Probably Angouleme because of the logistics timewise.

I know this might seem like too many hotels to some, but this will give me a good taste of several, and after all, it is 2 weeks! I had considered cutting off a few of the days and going to Albi and Carcassonne, but decided on a more relaxing time in the Dordogne and Lot -and I can visit castles, caves, and pretty villages to my heart's content. I'll save Albi and Carcassonne for next time. Thanks again for all the help.

Sue4

Did I send you my itinerary on the Dordogne? We've vacationed there for 4 weeks, spread our over 3 trips recently. The itinerary describes our favorite sites, towns, scenic drives, and also includes a section from my wife's diary where she discusses our favorite restaurants - with specific menus described.

E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

I didn't catch your post when you first made it, but others have givien you good advice. We usually fly in/out of Toulouse when we visit the Dordogne. We are staying there for 4 weeks in Sept '05, and a RT from San Francisco to Paris is $1,030, and a RT to Toulouse from SF is $1,115 - so it's only $85 more to fly to Toulouse (from Amsterdam on KLM). Since they completed the freeway around Cahors last year, the drive to the Dordogne is very fast. However, there are some great very scenic areas between Toulouse & the Dordogne. We've vacationed for 2 weeks there & it's quite lovely.

I'm not a big fan of Cahors - I think Figeac is much prettier. For my Birthday in '02, we dined at the Terminus and it was probably one of the most disappointing meals of our trip (we spend 2 months in France each year so that's about 30-40 meals a year - & I'm a major foodie). Also, the area around the Terminus isn't that neat (I assume it's safe, however). Just my 2 cents.

Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca

Stu, thanks for the reply. I'm going to e-mail you for your itinerary, as I would love to have it. I've thought about flying into Toulouse for a next trip and driving around those areas south of the Perigord. Toulouse sounds like such a big city, though, and I freak out about car pick-up in big cities.

The reason I picked Cahors to end the trip was because it seemed to be an easy car drop off point, and the Terminus is near the train station for trip back to Paris. I was sorry to hear you had a disappointing meal at the Terminus - St. Cirq loves it!

>>>Toulouse sounds like such a big city, though, and I freak out about car pick-up in big cities.<<

It is a big city. We've picked up a car at the airport, we've picked one up at the train station, and also returned one at the station. I don't remember any difficulty getting to/from the station. It's not in the "center" of town.

If you don't want to go near downtown Toulouse, pick up a car at the airport & stay in Albi the first night. I like Albi much more than Cahors.

You could also stay the last night near Caussade (south of Cahors) and take the TGV to Paris (5 hrs) with no train changes. Are you going to stay in Paris, or go directly to CDG ??

I have a 35+ page itinerary on the Languedoc/Roussillon area (south of Dordogne). E-mail me if you want that one too.

Stu, I would like both of your itineraries - sounds great! Hope you got my e-mail. I'm going straight to CDG to spend the night at an airport hotel, as I have an early flight out the next day. I will definitely research your other suggestions for train schedules. I already checked out Albi, and the train schedule was not good at all. I need an extra week for this trip!

I do love Cahors. I think people's experiences with a place vary depending on what was going on when they were there, what the weather was like, etc. But I have been to Cahors dozens and dozens of times and I LOVE the Terminus and its restaurant. It HAS been abolut 3 years since I had dinner there, so it's entirely possible Stu's got some more recent info. But I encourage you to try the place and see if you like it. And why not report back here, because I can't be everywhere all the time to check up on these places I have enjoyed.

St. Cirq, I definitely will report back on here after my trip - I think that's what helps make this forum so great. By the way, I've about decided to take your advice and take the train from Paris to Perigueux (via Bordeaux), and skip Angouleme.

Stu, thanks so much for sending me your wonderful, detailed itineraries - absolutely full of very helpful information. And the restaurant reviews, with descriptions of food, really had me salivating- thanks to your wife for that! (I would suggest that anyone planning a trip to the Dordogne or Languedoc area should request these itineraries from Stu.)