Beautiful photos. Dpn't want to hijack this thread, so I'll post my numerous questions in the near future on a new thread. Thanks Michael for the new idea to start the trip.

((H))

maitaitom,

For all its bad reputation, Limoges does have some interesting things to see: the butcher museum (former house with shop of a butcher preserved as it was in the 19th cent.) which is in the rue des Bouchers in the secular old town.

The bishop's palace in the ecclesiastical old town has a fine collection of Limoges enamels, and there is a nice botanical garden on the grounds (with good labels for each plant). The grounds also contain a museum of sample works of <i>les compagnons de France</i> while they are still journeymen (literally) developing their traditional construction trade.

There is also a very good porcelain museum outside either old town which gives a historical progression to the craft, perhaps because Limoges has produced porcelain since the 18th century; there are some amazing 19th century pieces, Monets in porcelain. Most porcelain museums, such as the one in the bishop's palace in Strasbourg, cover only the high period of that area's production, which usually is the 18th century.

Yes, Limoges isn't the scourge it's often made out to be; but I'd still get out of it as fast as possible. Oradour-sur-Glane is only about 20 miles or so northwest of it. You could take the train to Limoges, drive to Oradour, spend the requisite couple of hours or so there, and then head south to Brantôme or Bourdeilles. Both nice towns, though they have nothing on the highlights of the Périgord Noir. Next day, head to Sarlat to begin the real delights.