lavaflow

We're interested in spending a few days in Dordogne seeing the typical sights around Sarlat. Does anyone have recommendations on good places to stay? I've searched Karen Brown's website, but I'm not sure if the hotels listed are in good locations. We are looking for charming accommodations.. and we're not on a strict budget. Thank you in advance.

rex

You'll get numerous answers, and mine might be the least important to heed, since I have a lot less experience with Dordogne accommodations than others....

We stayed in Limeuil. A little bit removed from "the thick of"... the "good stuff".

Based strictly on what I saw (not any places I actually stayed)... I think that St Cyprien or Domme might be good choices (referring to towns - - not specific hotels). Likewise, maybe Beynac.

Best wishes,

Rex

ira

Hi L,
Can you give us a price range?

lavaflow

Ira-- Price range would probably be 150 Euros or less. Does that help?

PalQ

Domme and Beynac are two of the famous 'bastides' of the Dordogne area, extant from the time when English and the French royals fought over this area for centuries - bastides were built on steep hills - nautral fortresses - they were actually occupied since Roman days due to their strategic positions looming over the Dordogne River below them. (Domme's pile rises 475 feet above the river right below it, making it hard to attack.) thus today they still, quite uncharacteristically for medieval French towns, have grids of straight streets typical of Roman towns. But both are also seriously overrun with tourists in summer during the day - but nice at night when the hoardes have gone. So it depends whether you like a heavily touristed scene or not. Sarlat is very nice - also a real town, a regional town though it also attracts a legion of tourists. Sarlat has a wide selection of hotels and restaurants. As i don't know diddily about hotels i only comment on locations.

ira

Hi L,

http://www.hotelbonnet.com/indexx.html

http://www.cometofrance.com/LA-ROQUE-GAGEAC.html


http://www.hotel-renoir-sarlat.com/htmgb/tarifs.html

http://www.carlucet.com/en/index.htm

http://www.hotelduchateau-dordogne.c...ebergement.htm

http://www.hotelplaisance.com/gb/hotel.htm

Hope this helps.

Nikki

Last week I spent three nights at Domaine de la Barde in Le Bugue. Charming property with rooms in an old manor house and a restored mill on the property, with a swimming pool and tennis courts and a good restaurant. We stayed in a "classic" room in the mill for 120 euro per night.
http://www.domainedelabarde.com/HTML/ReservationGB.html

I was glad we were in Le Bugue rather than one of the hill towns because of the ease of access.

StCirq

What time of year are you going? That can make a difference because of traffic.

Good locations for any time of year include Le Bugue, St-Cyprien, Meyrals, Tamnies, Belves, and Vitrac. In high season (especially July and August) I'd steer clear of Beynac, Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Sarlat, and Les Eyzies because of traffic congestion, but other times of year those would be great places to base yourself.

If you do a search on this forum you'll find loads of specific recommendations.

laverendrye

Domme and Beynac are certainly worth visiting, but as St.Cirq notes, traffic congestion can be a real problem in the high season. In the off-season, you might consider l'Esplanade in Domme, if you don't mind the steep winding roads in and out of town. Otherwise, go with St.Cirq's suggestions.

By the way, Beynac is not, as PalQ mentioned, a bastide town. It's a small town which grew up around the castle, as did its neighbour Castelnaud.

Bastides were "new towns" built by the English and French in the 13th and 14th centuries, with a marketplace at the centre, as they were built to encourage commerce. As they were new, they were laid out on a grid pattern, rather than following the haphazard arrangement in older towns. Because they were on the frontier, most were eventually fortified, but are by no means castles. Although Domme is situated on a hill top, many of the bastides are on level ground, including the most well-known, Monpazier.

lavaflow

Nikki-- I love that hotel you posted. So very charming! Was your "classic" room in the mill anything like the pictures on the website?

How far/close is Le Bugue in relation to Sarlat or other popular sights?

And while I'm on this topic, would you mind sharing what you saw in the Dordogne region that you'd recommend? Thanks!

StCirq-- We will be there in April, so we won't have to deal with the hords of tourists. I guess that opens us up to staying at a lot of different places!

Which ones are the "hill towns?"

laverendrye-- Thanks for the interesting info about the different towns. I can't wait to learn more.

I looked up L'Esplanade.. I like the way it looks! But, I couldn't find too many pictures of the hotel. Do you know of a website that might have better information on the hotel?

Nikki

Our room in the mill was furnished more simply than the ones in the pictures on the website. When I reserved, I asked the difference between the rooms in the manor and the ones in the mill, and I was told the ones in the manor were more elegant. Figured we didn't need elegant, but the rooms in the pictures do indeed look nice. Since you are going in April, maybe that would be low season at better rates.

I mentioned hill towns, which probably isn't the proper word in France, because some of the towns are built steeply onto the sides of hills and are harder to access by narrow, winding roads. Beynac, for instance. I didn't visit Domme, but my impression is that it is similar.

We didn't visit Sarlat, just drove through on the way to Le Bugue. We did visit St. Cyprien, which is very close, for its market and restaurants. Beynac, which is also close, has a fantastic castle. Font de Gaume was a great experience, loved the intimacy of the cave and the ability to view the paintings so close to us. The Roque St.-Christophe was fascinating with its cliff dwellings which constituted a city in medieval times and evidence of prehistoric dwellings as well. We also enjoyed the market in Le Bugue.

All these places were very convenient to Le Bugue. We only scratched the surface of the area, but I selected the places we visited based on postings by St. Cirq, whom I have not yet properly thanked. Trip report to follow when I am a bit less jet lagged.

laverendrye

lavaflow: Here's a link to a fine trip report by O'Reilly (Ger):
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34497486

If you are interested in l'Esplanade, she gives a detailed description, and a link to her photo album of the Dordogne.

There are plenty of other good places to stay in the Dordogne, of course, but you shouldn't be bothered by crowds in April.

StCirq

laverendrye: Thanks for confirming that Beynac isn't a bastide. I read that and was going to respond (how in the world could you arrange a grid pattern on that hillside?). Monpazier is one of the most beautiful of the bastide towns.

StCirq

Meant to add that the Esplanade in Domme is a great place. Also La Belle Etoile in La Roque-Gageac, La Domaine de la Barde in Le Bugue, L'Abbaye in St-Cyprien, the Laborderie in Tamnies - gosh, there are so many!

My house is 5 km from Le Bugue and it takes me about 20-25 minutes to get to Sarlat. It's not far, but the road is very winding, and as you approach Sarlat it's both winding and steep.

The hilltowns would include Domme, Belves, Tamnies, Beynac, La Roque-Gageac.

As for what to see, I suggest you get the Michelin Green Guide and the Cadogan Guide to the Dordogne, Lot & Bordeaux, as well as search on this forum - there have been dozens and dozens of detailed postings on the topic. There is a huge amount to see and do, so it depends on your interests.

Have fun planning!