Dona

I'm leaving for Italy in Oct. for 13 days. Venice for 2+ days. Then on to Asolo (Veneto) for 2 nights (1 day going to Trieste). Driving to Umbria (Bevagna for 3 nights) and will be driving all the area. I've been to Perugia, Spello, Deruta, Spoleto, and Torgiano, before...<BR><BR>Then on to Candeli (outside of Florence) for the night (the hotel in Bevagna couldn't accommodate us for the additional night). And finally to Florence for the last 3 nights.<BR><BR>Any suggestions on wonderful restaurants and places to visit?

dale

if yoou've been to spello you must know la bastilia, its at the top of the town. good grub. i strongly suggest enoteca piazza onofri in bevagna for excellent wine and food. i also recommend that you visit montefalco and trevi, nice little hill towns. buon viaggio.

Paulo

Once again, Dona, what follows is based on hearsay and research. So, you tell me on your return <BR><BR>The best restaurant reasonably close to Asolo is da Gigetto (via A. de Gaspari 4, tel. 043 8960020, closed Mondays for dinner and Tuesdays, Lit 60,000/person wine excluded) in Miane, a village some 30km to the northeast. If you don't feel like driving, Ca' Derton in Asolo (Piazza G. d'Annunzio 11, tel. 042 3529648; closed Sundays for dinner and Mondays; Lit 60,000) should do.<BR><BR>The best restaurant in all of Umbria is Vissani, on SS448 road between Todi and Baschi (tel. 074 4950206, closed Wednesdays). Prices are stiff, over $100/person wine excluded. Chef and owner Vissani surely knows how to promote his business, appearing quite often in the tv and building a reputation as one of the top chefs in Italy. Being rated by Gambero Rosso among the top 20 also doesn't help to keep prices down either.<BR><BR>Anyway, owing to Bevagna's "awkward" position relative to Todi (no direct road) you'll have to allow for an hour to drive the 60km back at night. Much closer to "home", you may consider Villa Roncalli in Foligno (via Roma 25, tel. 074 2391091, closed Mondays, Lit 75,000).<BR><BR>When in Candeli, you may consider to take the opportunity and make the very short drive to San Casciano in Val di Pesa to experiment the La Tenda Rossa, also among the top 20 in Italy according to Gambero Rosso (Piazza del Monumento 9/14, tel. 055 826132, closed Sundays and Mondays for lunch, Lit 130,000)<BR><BR>Paulo

Dayle

Dona! I'm so jealous! Tell us again how it is that you get to visit bella Italia so often? I don't remember if it was family connections? Buon viaggio!

Paulo

Within a 1½ hour driving radius from Bevagna, besides the cities you mention, you may visit:<BR><BR>Gubbio (63km, 1h10m) - outstanding medieval townscape, with its intact walls, old mansions and stome houses, narrow lanes and steps; beautiful Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli (picture gallery and archeological museum), opposite Palazzo Pretorio, Palazo Ducale and Duomo, and Via dei Consoli (pottery studios) and Largo Bargello (fountain, palazzo and San Domenico church); small Roman theatre and mausoleum outside walls<BR><BR>Assisi (24km, 25min)<BR><BR>A dayttrip that would call for less than 3 hours driving would be: Bevagna - Foligno - Sassovivo Abbey - Nocera Umbra - Gualdo Tadino - Gubbio - Assisi - Bevagna. Of course, Assisi deserves a daytrip of its own but if you're not running out of time on your return you could stop to visit Sta. Maria degli Angeli church on the foot of Assisi's hill.<BR><BR>Orvieto (67km, 1 hr)<BR><BR>A drive of 3+ hours would take you to Todi - Orvieto - Amelia - Narni - Terni and back home. You may plan to have lunch in Orvieto or, if you decide for the Vissani splurge without returning to dress up. you may start the other way round.<BR><BR>Paulo

Patti

Hi--I loved Norcia, on the border of Umbria and Le Marche, birthplace of St. Benedict. The town itself has a nice little museum and church, fabulous food shops (Norcia is famous for truffles and meat) and gorgeous surrounding scenery. The Piano Grande is nearby, as well as the Sibillini mountain range.<BR>Definitely worth a day trip.<BR>Have fun<BR>Patti<BR>

Paulo

It just occured me, Dona, do you have any plans relative to the journey from Asolo south to Bevagna?<BR><BR>The fast route (some 4½ hours) would be to Bassano del Grappa, Padua, Ferrara, Bologna , Cesena and south on E45 to Assisi and Bevagna. Of course, you'd have plenty of "goodies" to consider enroute (Bassano del Grappa, Padua, Ferrara, Bologna, Faenza, Forli, Cesena, Cittą di Castello, etc). If you haven't yet, I'd go for Ferrara and if you're not that interested in faience, I'd consider driving east, then south to Ravenna for a couple of hours, and then hit Cesena directly to the south. This would increase your driving time by a mere ½ hour. In case you opt for visiting Ferrara and are prepared to leave the city around lunch time, you may consider driving south on S16 for about 10-12km and then off to a village named Marrara, home of the fine "Il Don Giovanni". We've been there quite a while ago, recommended by a cousin. In searching the net to retrieve the relevant data, I came across its site (prices sure have gone up since <BR>http://www.ferraraintavola.com/inglese/dongiovanni.htm<BR><BR>Paulo

kam

Loved Gubbio and the Taverna del Lupo! Please post a report about Trieste when you return, it's next on our list.

Dona

You guys are great - as usual. What great ideas!! <BR> <BR>Dale - I do know La Bastilia. Visited it on my trip to Spello (which is such a fabulous town). And thanks for the Bevagna restaurant recommendation - since we'll be there for 3 nights. <BR> <BR>Paulo - as always, your input is so valuable! You're right about driving long distances at night. I prefer to stay closer to home. But being the "foodie" that I am, I'd love to get La Tenda Rossa for lunch on this trip. I've been to Assisi and Orvieto - but have not heard many of the other towns you mentioned. They're now on my list... <BR> <BR>Dayle, Italy is my splurge for the year. I fell in love with the country during my first trip in '92 and have gone back every year since (2X if I can swing it). Yes - I feel very fortunate... <BR> <BR>Thank you all! I'm really looking forward to the trip. Any and all other suggestions are most welcome!

Cal

Hi Patti- Norcia interests me, too. I've read about it being a food center. Any restaurant recommendations? Thanks, Cal

Ruth

Patti, I'd be interested in your restaurant experience in Norcia also, as we plan to visit there in early November. We're aiming for the Granaro del Monte based upon Fred Plotkin's recommendation.

beth

where have you decided to stay in Bevagna? Sounds like you know the are pretty good - why Bevagna this time. I'm going in November and can't decide between Bevagna, Spello or Montefalco

Betsy

I'm headed to Umbria in October, too. Someone posted on the board that she had a mediocre meal in Norcia and mentioned that she should have accepted the recommendation of the personnel in one of the meat shops there. Just an idea.

Betsy

Um...that would be Nocera

Dale

Dona: Forgot to mention another great restaurant. Try Taverna del Pescatore. It is across the highway from Pigge, a "suburb" of Trevi. That's the best I can do for directions. You might ask a native. Had probably the best meal in a half dozen trips to Italy in the past few years. I know that I will eat there again in October. It's recommended by either Fred Plotkin or Faith Willinger.

Dona

Beth - <BR> <BR>You asked why Bevagna this time... <BR> <BR>Well, I've been to Tuscany and Umbria quite a few times. But from Umbria I thought we could get to some places not yet visited, e.g., Gubbio, Cortona, Arezzo. <BR> <BR>And why Bevagna? I've been to Spello (and it's beautiful!) And I'm a hotel person - I really love nice hotels. I found L'Orto degli Angeli in a number of spots and I'm intrigued - so that's where we're staying... <BR> <BR>I haven't been to Montefalco yet - hopefully this trip... <BR> <BR>Dona

Joe

Donna: if you are going to Asolo (a delightful village), you should make time for Bassono del Grappa, at least a half day. The covered bridge over the Brenta River (designed by Andrea Palladio) is worth it by itself. Old section is fun. <BR> <BR>On the way to Triest (if you are interested in antiquities), you should stop at the Roman Port Outpost of Aquileia. The ruins are very interesting, but the mosaic covered floor of the Romanesque (10 Century)Basilica is awsome. The Byzantine Frescoes in the crypt are equally impressive. <BR> <BR>The little village of Grado, down the penninsula from Aqileia, is worth a visit. Trieste is all right, but the little fishing village of Muggia, 12 kilometers past Trieste, is, again, delightful; pretty Marina, old section and the hike to the little 10th Century Church of the Assunta at the top of the hill is fantatsic. The view of Trieste and the Bay of Sistiana are spectacular. <BR> <BR>As for restarants, In Asolo, Du Moi was very good (it was Sunday and Hosteria Ca'Derton was closed). We had an excellent Pasta e fagioli, a wonderful creamed gnocci with pumpkin blossoms and grilled half chicken. The restarant specializes in grilled meats with a large open grill in the center of the restaurant. The view from our outdoor table was beautiful. In Trieste (reserve early, even days before you plan to attend), go to Al Bragozzo. We had a great seafood dinner here. Suban is also very good. <BR>

ttt

TTT

Rex

Doesn't sound like yo have time for this, but my two recommendations in Bassano del Grappa (if you are thinking of a stop there) would include: 1) the Museo Civico - - one of the most splendid LITTLE museums I have ever seen - - see it all in 90 minutes, and 2) Birreria Ottone for a meal - - magnifico! <BR> <BR>Best wishes, <BR> <BR>Rex <BR>

Dale

If we have now traveled to Bassano del Grappa, I urge you to visit the one man distillery of Vittorio Capovilla just outside of town. He has been featured in the Magazine of la Cucina Itialiana. I lugged four bottles of his stuff all over Italy a year ago and never regretted it. I think that there's still a little left. Good grappa and fantastic digistivi.