Don’t Get a Headache in Rome on a Sunday: Adventures in Italy and Paris
May 24th, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Don’t Get a Headache in Rome on a Sunday: Adventures in Italy and Paris
Oh, yes, mistakes were made. So much advance planning, researching, map-studying. Fabulous advice from many Fodorites (Thank you all so much)! And it helped; it really did. I just sort of lost it all in the fog of my brain following 2 unexpected surgeries (and accompanying pharmaceuticals). I could have sworn the surgeon said I could still go to Italy, yet the day before we left (6 weeks into recovery), he said, “You know, you really need at least 3 months...” Well, of course I ignored him at that point. We were leaving the NEXT MORNING!
The problem was that I could not get our information organized. I felt like I’d been studying hard all semester and here it was, final exam time, and I couldn’t remember what I’d learned, or maybe I’d studied the wrong chapters.
Lesson #1 : It doesn’t matter. Just get on the plane! Go! Have a great time!
Well, yes, a few phrases of the LANGUAGE does help. (You can study on the plane at the very least). You only need a few, for politeness, and those Buon Giornos, Buona Seras, Grazie, Per Favores can open doors. I downloaded a really silly little free app onto my borrowed iPod Touch, called Essential Italian. It had plenty of simple basics, including how to order food and, since it was sponsored by Fiat, the essential phrase, “I want a Fiat 500!”
(This became one of two tag lines DH and I used throughout the trip).
Oh, MAPS - the other necessity. It helps to know where you’re going. I spent an unnecessary fortune on maps, because I love maps and always try to get DH to be a map person, too.
Red Maps - Beautiful, color-coded, easy-to-read, but useless to us. Show a limited area and not enough streets.
Streetwise Venice was also a bust for us - too many missing streets.
** In the end, our hotels in Venice and Rome provided the best, most comprehensive and easy to use maps -- FREE--- once we arrived. I could not find a good map ahead of time for Siena. This I purchased when we arrived there.
The Fodors maps as well as Rick Steves’s Planning Map were fine for initial planning from home.
Someone on Fodor’s recommended a great website: www.communitywalk.com
which I used to plot locations of our hotel, recommended restaurants, and sites of interest. This would have been perfect had I remembered to add the actual address of the restaurants by using the edit function.
BASIC ITINERARY - 16 days
Venice
Siena (with side adventures)
Rome
Paris
TRANSPORTATION:
Air France (SFO to Venice, Rome to Paris, Paris to SFO)
Various water transportation
Eurostar, Intercity Train
Buses
Taxis, Metro, miles and miles of walking
LODGING:
Venice: Locanda Orseolo
Siena: Palazzo Ravizza
Rome: Hotel San Carlo
Paris: Hotel Sainte Beuve
April 27-28: Long travel day, more than 25 hours door-to door. Arrived in Venice at a seemingly deserted, quiet airport at 5:30 PM. Utterly exhausted, we impulsively decided to order a private water taxi at the transportation desk next to Baggage Claim. (Our hotel had told us that Venezia Water Taxi would definitively navigate the smaller canals to bring us to the door of our locanda. Some other taxi drivers do take advantage of tired tourists and try to drop you off on the Grand Canal quite far from your hotel). We had a pleasant, easy 5-minute walk to the dock, found 2 water taxi drivers sitting by, relaxed, who said, oh, no, your driver. He comes now! And they gestured in the distance to a wild driver, flopping his boat on the choppy waters, maneuvering his boat in a crazed zig-zag fashion as if he were in some speedboat slalom course, trying for the championship!
He raced to the dock, literally threw our suitcases on board, we climbed in, and not even yet seated, the boat sped off. Slap! Slap! Slap! The boat hit that water hard! It sounded as if the floorboards would split. My suitcase was tottering on the edge of the boat, so I stepped out of the passenger cubby and grabbed it, for fear it might topple into the water. Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride this was! (“Well, we are in Italy!” we laughed. Suddenly, the driver cut the motor and we cruised into a small canal, then into the awesome Grand Canal! Wow! We cruised past those amazing historic buildings we’d only seen in photos, then turned down a series of tiny little canals, sharing a small space with gondoliers at every turn. “ Oy! Oy!” they called out to one another. And then we stopped at an open doorway on the water - our locanda!
Note: This was a super-splurge - 120 Euros. If we’d arrived earlier in the day, we’d have taken the Alilaguna (80 minutes, about 26 Euros for two). I was not feeling well and the taxi ride of 25 minutes was appealing; I’m pretty sure we made it in 15.
The problem was that I could not get our information organized. I felt like I’d been studying hard all semester and here it was, final exam time, and I couldn’t remember what I’d learned, or maybe I’d studied the wrong chapters.
Lesson #1 : It doesn’t matter. Just get on the plane! Go! Have a great time!
Well, yes, a few phrases of the LANGUAGE does help. (You can study on the plane at the very least). You only need a few, for politeness, and those Buon Giornos, Buona Seras, Grazie, Per Favores can open doors. I downloaded a really silly little free app onto my borrowed iPod Touch, called Essential Italian. It had plenty of simple basics, including how to order food and, since it was sponsored by Fiat, the essential phrase, “I want a Fiat 500!”
(This became one of two tag lines DH and I used throughout the trip).
Oh, MAPS - the other necessity. It helps to know where you’re going. I spent an unnecessary fortune on maps, because I love maps and always try to get DH to be a map person, too.
Red Maps - Beautiful, color-coded, easy-to-read, but useless to us. Show a limited area and not enough streets.
Streetwise Venice was also a bust for us - too many missing streets.
** In the end, our hotels in Venice and Rome provided the best, most comprehensive and easy to use maps -- FREE--- once we arrived. I could not find a good map ahead of time for Siena. This I purchased when we arrived there.
The Fodors maps as well as Rick Steves’s Planning Map were fine for initial planning from home.
Someone on Fodor’s recommended a great website: www.communitywalk.com
which I used to plot locations of our hotel, recommended restaurants, and sites of interest. This would have been perfect had I remembered to add the actual address of the restaurants by using the edit function.
BASIC ITINERARY - 16 days
Venice
Siena (with side adventures)
Rome
Paris
TRANSPORTATION:
Air France (SFO to Venice, Rome to Paris, Paris to SFO)
Various water transportation
Eurostar, Intercity Train
Buses
Taxis, Metro, miles and miles of walking
LODGING:
Venice: Locanda Orseolo
Siena: Palazzo Ravizza
Rome: Hotel San Carlo
Paris: Hotel Sainte Beuve
April 27-28: Long travel day, more than 25 hours door-to door. Arrived in Venice at a seemingly deserted, quiet airport at 5:30 PM. Utterly exhausted, we impulsively decided to order a private water taxi at the transportation desk next to Baggage Claim. (Our hotel had told us that Venezia Water Taxi would definitively navigate the smaller canals to bring us to the door of our locanda. Some other taxi drivers do take advantage of tired tourists and try to drop you off on the Grand Canal quite far from your hotel). We had a pleasant, easy 5-minute walk to the dock, found 2 water taxi drivers sitting by, relaxed, who said, oh, no, your driver. He comes now! And they gestured in the distance to a wild driver, flopping his boat on the choppy waters, maneuvering his boat in a crazed zig-zag fashion as if he were in some speedboat slalom course, trying for the championship!
He raced to the dock, literally threw our suitcases on board, we climbed in, and not even yet seated, the boat sped off. Slap! Slap! Slap! The boat hit that water hard! It sounded as if the floorboards would split. My suitcase was tottering on the edge of the boat, so I stepped out of the passenger cubby and grabbed it, for fear it might topple into the water. Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride this was! (“Well, we are in Italy!” we laughed. Suddenly, the driver cut the motor and we cruised into a small canal, then into the awesome Grand Canal! Wow! We cruised past those amazing historic buildings we’d only seen in photos, then turned down a series of tiny little canals, sharing a small space with gondoliers at every turn. “ Oy! Oy!” they called out to one another. And then we stopped at an open doorway on the water - our locanda!
Note: This was a super-splurge - 120 Euros. If we’d arrived earlier in the day, we’d have taken the Alilaguna (80 minutes, about 26 Euros for two). I was not feeling well and the taxi ride of 25 minutes was appealing; I’m pretty sure we made it in 15.
May 24th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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I want a Fiat-how cute. Have to agree with you about maps-it can be a challenge when streets are missing! A 25-hour travel is tough. I think we got your water taxi driver’s brother on a gondola ride through rough waters. And yes, that first Grand Canal ride is so special.
Can't wait for your next day.
Can't wait for your next day.
May 24th, 2011, 02:43 PM
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Thank you so much for reading. I’ve admired all of your contributions to the Fodors Forums and wish that I had the talent for writing that you all display. Ellenem, I have been enjoying your recent, detailed Venice report. Mine will not have that much detail, but I hope I can bring a few new items to the forefront.
Already, I’ve made an error. The private water taxi was 110 Euros (not 120). It costs less if the trip does not involve negotiating the small canals.
Venice Lodging: Locanda Orseolo
I cannot say enough about this. Read Tripadvisor. It’s all true. From the moment we stepped through their water taxi door, we were embraced by their warm, genuine hospitality. We felt like relatives whose visit had been long-anticpated. The entire staff greeted us by name, cheerfully anticipated every need. Nothing was a problem. Our room (superior, overlooking the Orseolo Canal) was beautiful, comfortable and soothing. It consisted of a lovely bedroom with a sitting room, both with huge windows. The bathroom was modern, clean and roomy, complete with bathrobes and slippers.
Igor handled our luggage; Barbara soothed us. I showed her my book, Secret Venice (rec. by Fodorite Peter_S_Aus), mentioned some restaurants we thought to try. Aah, she said. This might be too much. In Venice, you must relax...and enjooooyy it. Tonight perhaps you’d like a small, casual restaurant, not far, not expensive, not touristic. Don’t worry. You will not get lost.
Directions: Go over the bridge at Campo S. Bartolomeo. Turn right a bit after Coin near the church. Well, we did get lost, but just a little, and had a wonderful 3-course dinner at Osteria Barababao (which means “The Boogeyman”). For 20 Euros each we had a first course, fresh Branzino with vegetables, and Tiramisou for dessert. Prosecco before dinner. House wine with dinner. Aqua Naturale. Total 47 Euros including Coperto.
(In Venice, we soon learned our major lifeline was Calle dei Fabbri and that yellow signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Accademia would help us out of any directional predicament. Directions always seemed to be given in terms of bridges and campos or landmarks, never street names).
We happily fell into bed that night with all of our windows wide open, letting all that is Venice permeate our sleep.
Already, I’ve made an error. The private water taxi was 110 Euros (not 120). It costs less if the trip does not involve negotiating the small canals.
Venice Lodging: Locanda Orseolo
I cannot say enough about this. Read Tripadvisor. It’s all true. From the moment we stepped through their water taxi door, we were embraced by their warm, genuine hospitality. We felt like relatives whose visit had been long-anticpated. The entire staff greeted us by name, cheerfully anticipated every need. Nothing was a problem. Our room (superior, overlooking the Orseolo Canal) was beautiful, comfortable and soothing. It consisted of a lovely bedroom with a sitting room, both with huge windows. The bathroom was modern, clean and roomy, complete with bathrobes and slippers.
Igor handled our luggage; Barbara soothed us. I showed her my book, Secret Venice (rec. by Fodorite Peter_S_Aus), mentioned some restaurants we thought to try. Aah, she said. This might be too much. In Venice, you must relax...and enjooooyy it. Tonight perhaps you’d like a small, casual restaurant, not far, not expensive, not touristic. Don’t worry. You will not get lost.
Directions: Go over the bridge at Campo S. Bartolomeo. Turn right a bit after Coin near the church. Well, we did get lost, but just a little, and had a wonderful 3-course dinner at Osteria Barababao (which means “The Boogeyman”). For 20 Euros each we had a first course, fresh Branzino with vegetables, and Tiramisou for dessert. Prosecco before dinner. House wine with dinner. Aqua Naturale. Total 47 Euros including Coperto.
(In Venice, we soon learned our major lifeline was Calle dei Fabbri and that yellow signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Accademia would help us out of any directional predicament. Directions always seemed to be given in terms of bridges and campos or landmarks, never street names).
We happily fell into bed that night with all of our windows wide open, letting all that is Venice permeate our sleep.
May 25th, 2011, 06:13 AM
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April 29 - Friday, Venice -
Enchantment...and then Trouble
We wake up early after a fitful night. Jet lag, over-exhaustion, outside conversation amplified by the water of the canal? The delivery boats are now on the canal below, unloading supplies for the big holiday weekend: drinks, food, clean towels, toilet paper ... And yesterday’s trash is neatly bundled on the docks, ready for removal from the islands. But downstairs we are so warmly greeted by the staff. How was your sleep? Was it too noisy? Would you like an omelet? Some crepes with pears? Cappuccino? The array of food is delightful and the cheerfulness of the breakfast room infectious. We’ll be fine; we’ll keep the canal side room. We like the window open; it’s our choice.
DH decides we should see Doge’s Palace, and on the way, we stop at our bank’s partner bank for some cash. Long line. And then...Transaction denied! We try several accounts. All denied! We try the bank window. No. Not allowed. Bancomat only. Impossible! We had made serious arrangements with our bank before we left, spoke to 3 different departments. Confirming phone calls. The bank sent us nice letters and called numerous times thanking us for letting them know we would be in Italy. (We still have the nice voice mails). This is impossible!
We sign up for a later Secret Itineraries Tour for 12:25 and head back to the hotel to begin our emergency calls to the bank. Lots of departments, lots of supervisors, NO HELP! Finally we are told to be at the hotel between 3 and 4 PM and someone will call us from the Emergency Fund Dept. for “possible wiring of funds.”
We go to Doge’s Palace for our tour, but all I can think about is how we were going to make it through a holiday weekend in a foreign country with the 53 Euros left in my pocket. DH, however, is able to turn off the worry switch and thoroughly enjoy our tour. I am miserable and absolutely cannot wait any longer for the bank’s EFD phone call. It is a holiday weekend and the banks will close at 3 PM! We go back to the hotel and I begin a new round of calls to the bank. FINALLY, someone determines the accounts are “locked” due to suspected fraud (DUH!), unlocks them, and waits on the line while DH runs to the bank to make sure we can withdraw cash. Success! It is now 3 PM. We wait in the hotel room until 4 because the bank’s EFD is still supposed to call us. No one ever does.
Enchantment...and then Trouble
We wake up early after a fitful night. Jet lag, over-exhaustion, outside conversation amplified by the water of the canal? The delivery boats are now on the canal below, unloading supplies for the big holiday weekend: drinks, food, clean towels, toilet paper ... And yesterday’s trash is neatly bundled on the docks, ready for removal from the islands. But downstairs we are so warmly greeted by the staff. How was your sleep? Was it too noisy? Would you like an omelet? Some crepes with pears? Cappuccino? The array of food is delightful and the cheerfulness of the breakfast room infectious. We’ll be fine; we’ll keep the canal side room. We like the window open; it’s our choice.
DH decides we should see Doge’s Palace, and on the way, we stop at our bank’s partner bank for some cash. Long line. And then...Transaction denied! We try several accounts. All denied! We try the bank window. No. Not allowed. Bancomat only. Impossible! We had made serious arrangements with our bank before we left, spoke to 3 different departments. Confirming phone calls. The bank sent us nice letters and called numerous times thanking us for letting them know we would be in Italy. (We still have the nice voice mails). This is impossible!
We sign up for a later Secret Itineraries Tour for 12:25 and head back to the hotel to begin our emergency calls to the bank. Lots of departments, lots of supervisors, NO HELP! Finally we are told to be at the hotel between 3 and 4 PM and someone will call us from the Emergency Fund Dept. for “possible wiring of funds.”
We go to Doge’s Palace for our tour, but all I can think about is how we were going to make it through a holiday weekend in a foreign country with the 53 Euros left in my pocket. DH, however, is able to turn off the worry switch and thoroughly enjoy our tour. I am miserable and absolutely cannot wait any longer for the bank’s EFD phone call. It is a holiday weekend and the banks will close at 3 PM! We go back to the hotel and I begin a new round of calls to the bank. FINALLY, someone determines the accounts are “locked” due to suspected fraud (DUH!), unlocks them, and waits on the line while DH runs to the bank to make sure we can withdraw cash. Success! It is now 3 PM. We wait in the hotel room until 4 because the bank’s EFD is still supposed to call us. No one ever does.
May 25th, 2011, 08:48 AM
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Good grief, you must have been sick with worry. Glad your DH was able to get some money. DH and I thought we would be smart the first year everyone switched to Euros. We were still in a travelers' check mode so got them in Euros. NO ONE in Sicily would take them. They couldn't figure out how to do the conversion. DH finally went to a bank and they had to call our bank and American Express to sort it all out. DH just cashed it all in. Then we worried about carrying around so much cash!
The hotel sounds exquisite. More please and without any more problems!
The hotel sounds exquisite. More please and without any more problems!
May 25th, 2011, 09:24 AM
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elnap29 this is fantastic, more please! You are inspiring me to maybe write a trip report too.
We were just in Venice and like you, stayed at the Locanda Orseolo; May 6th and 7th. I fell in love with the hotel, the staff, the whole package and can't wait to go back with my husband as soon as possible! I was with a friend and my brother and his wife.
We also splurged on water taxis, once to go from the cruise ship to the hotel, and another to the airport. It was worth every euro for the experience. I loved arriving through the water door.
Okay, waiting for more of your trip report!
We were just in Venice and like you, stayed at the Locanda Orseolo; May 6th and 7th. I fell in love with the hotel, the staff, the whole package and can't wait to go back with my husband as soon as possible! I was with a friend and my brother and his wife.
We also splurged on water taxis, once to go from the cruise ship to the hotel, and another to the airport. It was worth every euro for the experience. I loved arriving through the water door.
Okay, waiting for more of your trip report!
May 25th, 2011, 01:02 PM
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Still April 29 - Salvaging the Day
With most of our first full day in Venice usurped by Bank of America (grrrrr), we gloomily trudge down the stairs of the locanda, where the delightful, enthusiastic, and empathetic Alex suggests we go to a good spot to regroup. I tell him it must include prosecco. And snacks. (I am craving some of those fried meatball cicheti other Fodorites have mentioned). Of course! And he shows us a lovely walking route to Campo San Stefano. We indulge in gelato on the way, then select a perfect people-watching spot on the campo. Ah, pizzette and prosecco and a delightful waiter. We let the energy of Venice swirl around us until we are ready to join in.
We do what we love best - walk and observe. We walk, and walk, and walk - over the Accademia Bridge to the Dorsoduro, meandering and noticing the entirely different feel of this island district. It’s quieter, slower, more thoughtful, simpler. We find the wine shop and cantinetta Vini al Bottegon (a Fodorite recommendation) and enjoy looking at the variety of cicheti and huge shelves of wine. We see the gondolier workshop, unique flowing fountains, quiet canals, deep shadows, graffitti, and, in a small cafe window, a basketful of freshly caught fish on ice. We vow to learn about the significance of all those unique, sculpted animal heads above doorways: lots of lions and lionesses, a unicorn, and more. The Billa supermarket is on my ‘to-visit’ list, but we tire before reaching that section.
We are amazed by the number of (huge) churches throughout Venice! More churches than gelato shops. How are they all supported? Who attends mass there? We peek into several as we walk by and are astounded by the art and beauty hidden inside. I wish we had a Chorus Pass, as ellenem did, but it is true, as Barbara at the locanda pointed out, we just do not have enough time on a short, first visit to make good use of this. Next visit, however, we are convinced that the Chorus Pass will provide an interesting perspective of Venetian history, art, and life.
Returning to the San Marco area, we walk a crazy, busy, crowded street, uncomfortable with aggressive, fake-designer purse hawkers every 5 feet. We retreat to the locanda for a glass of wine and watch all the gondolas pass by the open water taxi door.
After consulting with Alex, we select a restaurant for dinner near the Rialto which specializes in seafood. There is no obvious sign; we must look for a wine barrel, turn into the entry way, and look for a painted name on the glass door. Antica Dolo is packed with Italians and tourists, but a small table is ready for us in the back, which we share with a couple from Austria. DH is not an adventurous eater, but I insist we order Alex’s suggestion of the huge traditional Venetian cicheti appetizer platter. DH squirms. Don’t ask, I tell him, Just eat. If you don’t like it, don’t eat it. We enjoy everything except 1 item and we still have no idea what any of it was. This becomes our most expensive meal on the entire trip, simply because we are having so much fun with the Austrian couple and get into a very festive spirit. They are very tuned into American politics and have lots of questions about Arnold Schwarzenegger, our former governor. We order wine and more wine and dessert, too. Sea Bass and vegetables for me, Spaghetti with Prawns for DH (he is not too thrilled that shell, antennae and eyes are still attached --- too much work to eat, he says...) The dessert is divine: lemon sorbetto served with limoncello to sip and pour over. Coffee and tea. Total bill with tax and coperto (for 2) = 88 Euros. Delicious meal, great service, energetic atmosphere, all worth it.
We leave the ristorante overly-full, happy, and probably a little off-balance, but the walk over the Rialto Bridge through our now-familiar back streets to the locanda brings a cheerful bounce to our steps.
With most of our first full day in Venice usurped by Bank of America (grrrrr), we gloomily trudge down the stairs of the locanda, where the delightful, enthusiastic, and empathetic Alex suggests we go to a good spot to regroup. I tell him it must include prosecco. And snacks. (I am craving some of those fried meatball cicheti other Fodorites have mentioned). Of course! And he shows us a lovely walking route to Campo San Stefano. We indulge in gelato on the way, then select a perfect people-watching spot on the campo. Ah, pizzette and prosecco and a delightful waiter. We let the energy of Venice swirl around us until we are ready to join in.
We do what we love best - walk and observe. We walk, and walk, and walk - over the Accademia Bridge to the Dorsoduro, meandering and noticing the entirely different feel of this island district. It’s quieter, slower, more thoughtful, simpler. We find the wine shop and cantinetta Vini al Bottegon (a Fodorite recommendation) and enjoy looking at the variety of cicheti and huge shelves of wine. We see the gondolier workshop, unique flowing fountains, quiet canals, deep shadows, graffitti, and, in a small cafe window, a basketful of freshly caught fish on ice. We vow to learn about the significance of all those unique, sculpted animal heads above doorways: lots of lions and lionesses, a unicorn, and more. The Billa supermarket is on my ‘to-visit’ list, but we tire before reaching that section.
We are amazed by the number of (huge) churches throughout Venice! More churches than gelato shops. How are they all supported? Who attends mass there? We peek into several as we walk by and are astounded by the art and beauty hidden inside. I wish we had a Chorus Pass, as ellenem did, but it is true, as Barbara at the locanda pointed out, we just do not have enough time on a short, first visit to make good use of this. Next visit, however, we are convinced that the Chorus Pass will provide an interesting perspective of Venetian history, art, and life.
Returning to the San Marco area, we walk a crazy, busy, crowded street, uncomfortable with aggressive, fake-designer purse hawkers every 5 feet. We retreat to the locanda for a glass of wine and watch all the gondolas pass by the open water taxi door.
After consulting with Alex, we select a restaurant for dinner near the Rialto which specializes in seafood. There is no obvious sign; we must look for a wine barrel, turn into the entry way, and look for a painted name on the glass door. Antica Dolo is packed with Italians and tourists, but a small table is ready for us in the back, which we share with a couple from Austria. DH is not an adventurous eater, but I insist we order Alex’s suggestion of the huge traditional Venetian cicheti appetizer platter. DH squirms. Don’t ask, I tell him, Just eat. If you don’t like it, don’t eat it. We enjoy everything except 1 item and we still have no idea what any of it was. This becomes our most expensive meal on the entire trip, simply because we are having so much fun with the Austrian couple and get into a very festive spirit. They are very tuned into American politics and have lots of questions about Arnold Schwarzenegger, our former governor. We order wine and more wine and dessert, too. Sea Bass and vegetables for me, Spaghetti with Prawns for DH (he is not too thrilled that shell, antennae and eyes are still attached --- too much work to eat, he says...) The dessert is divine: lemon sorbetto served with limoncello to sip and pour over. Coffee and tea. Total bill with tax and coperto (for 2) = 88 Euros. Delicious meal, great service, energetic atmosphere, all worth it.
We leave the ristorante overly-full, happy, and probably a little off-balance, but the walk over the Rialto Bridge through our now-familiar back streets to the locanda brings a cheerful bounce to our steps.
May 28th, 2011, 07:07 AM
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(Yes, TDudette, very unhappy with BofA...)
April 30 - Saturday
PLANS? WHAT PLANS?
- Today DH finally realizes we have not allocated enough days for Venice. (I had argued for 5 nights minimum; friends had told him no more than 2 nights. We compromised at 4 nights, now, obviously inadequate...)
We decide to tour the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello (high on my to-do list) and follow Alex’s advice: Go to San Marco vaporetto stop to purchase 48-hr vaporetto pass; this will cover our remaining time in Venice plus our ride to the train station on Monday); then walk (this way, this bridge, this bridge, this campo, etc, etc...past the Ospedale) to Fondamenta Nuove to catch the 41/42 vaporetto line to the islands - it does not matter, either 41/42.
Why can’t we catch the vaporetto in San Marco? Because it will take an extra 1 1/2 hrs, he says.
We trudge through the madness of San Marco. It is Saturday, a holiday weekend, and it is uncomfortably crowded. After purchasing the vaporetto tickets, we recoil at the thought of going back through the pushing crowds to get to the route suggested by Alex. Instead we walk along the Fondamenta until we find a quieter backstreet and invent our own path to the 41/42 vaporetto stop. We meander and lose our way, but only a bit, and enjoy being in the living part of Venice, even though we certainly look out of place. We cross a bridge, slip through a narrow passageway, and come upon about 20 chefs, all in white jackets, obviously on a break from cooking school. We enjoy this quiet part of Venice.
Eventually, we find the Ospedale and all the hospital ambulance boats all lined up on the canal alongside. The vaporetto stop is not far. We have trouble figuring out how to validate our tickets and a kind local demonstrates. We check the vaporetto maps, ask several locals, ask the skipper’s assistant: yes, to Murano.
We have no idea the route this boat takes because all of our maps show the islands on an inset, but we recall Alex saying it should take about 30 minutes. Soon we have no idea where we are. We certainly are not on open waters and are making a lot of stops. Suddenly, we realize we are back on the Grand Canal!! We study the map and a kind local asks if he can help us. He checks with the boat captain. We stop next at the Lido, he says, then to San Marco. Does the boat go to Murano? Yes. Another hour and a half.
Deflated (and in need of a restroom), we get off at San Marco and retreat to our locanda.
(That evening, Barbara tells us that the 41/42 lines are very confusing, even for the locals. You cannot always tell which direction the boat will go. If we like, she can arrange a boat from the Marco Polo Glass Co. to pick us up in the morning, free of charge, if we agree to tour their factory - no obligation to buy. It is perhaps the best way, she says. Then take the vaporetto back. We decide to forego the islands; we want to explore so much more of Venice on Sunday, our last day).
We regroup and head to La Fenice to see this famous opera house. On the way, we spy a tiny mask-maker’s shop - not the type you see all over Venice, but real artistry in masks obviously used in the theatrical performances. Good thing the artist is taking a rest or we’d be tempted to spend serious money here. The theatre is gorgeous! The ‘Cinderella’ ballet still has afternoon seats available, but we are in no mood to go back and change clothes. (Everyone is very dressed up for these performances!)
Instead, we take the Traghetto across the Grand Canal to see the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Fascinating! I especially like all the photos of Peggy from the 60’s, wearing her 60’s style wigs and clothing and, of course, holding a dog in every picture. The blue glass sculptures of Picasso sketches are also among my favorites.
We are sooo tired. DH wants a salad and sandwich for dinner that we can bring back to the hotel. We go next door to a place simply called, “BAR.” I’m telling you it was fantastic! The best ham and cheese of my life! My grilled sandwich plus large fresh salad and DH’s pizza panini and some peach nectar comes to 14,50 Euros and is every bit as satisfying as our other meals. To find it, go to the little Campo San Gallo on which you will see Teatro San Gallo, a small church, and the gate to our locanda at Sotoportego S.Zorzi. BAR is next door to the gate, and there are tables and chairs on the campo.
Late in the evening, we decide we would like dessert, something from a bakery, and, after a gelato stop on Calle dei Fabbri, head to a pasticceria we had seen previously near Campo S. Bartolomeo. It has a stand-up coffee bar and is full of locals. We choose some little cookies at random and are so pleased, we return to the counter for more. This time, I think to ask if they might have some soft amaretti cookies. The woman nods and hands me a lovely box tied with purple ribbon. 11,50 Euros! I gulp but buy it anyway, because I know these are impossible to get in the US where we live. I’ll take these to my mom. Important: These cookies are individually wrapped and double-sealed. They are called Caffarel Eccellenza Piemontese Delicati Amaretti Morbidi del Sassello. We decide ‘morbidi’ must mean they are deadly good. Later, we find out ‘morbidi’ means soft.
As we stroll along the little streets, we see Chiara, one of the young staff members from the locanda, walking her dog, talking on her cell phone, and meeting up with friends - part of the passeggiata ritual. She waves and greets us as if we are old friends.
April 30 - Saturday
PLANS? WHAT PLANS?
- Today DH finally realizes we have not allocated enough days for Venice. (I had argued for 5 nights minimum; friends had told him no more than 2 nights. We compromised at 4 nights, now, obviously inadequate...)
We decide to tour the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello (high on my to-do list) and follow Alex’s advice: Go to San Marco vaporetto stop to purchase 48-hr vaporetto pass; this will cover our remaining time in Venice plus our ride to the train station on Monday); then walk (this way, this bridge, this bridge, this campo, etc, etc...past the Ospedale) to Fondamenta Nuove to catch the 41/42 vaporetto line to the islands - it does not matter, either 41/42.
Why can’t we catch the vaporetto in San Marco? Because it will take an extra 1 1/2 hrs, he says.
We trudge through the madness of San Marco. It is Saturday, a holiday weekend, and it is uncomfortably crowded. After purchasing the vaporetto tickets, we recoil at the thought of going back through the pushing crowds to get to the route suggested by Alex. Instead we walk along the Fondamenta until we find a quieter backstreet and invent our own path to the 41/42 vaporetto stop. We meander and lose our way, but only a bit, and enjoy being in the living part of Venice, even though we certainly look out of place. We cross a bridge, slip through a narrow passageway, and come upon about 20 chefs, all in white jackets, obviously on a break from cooking school. We enjoy this quiet part of Venice.
Eventually, we find the Ospedale and all the hospital ambulance boats all lined up on the canal alongside. The vaporetto stop is not far. We have trouble figuring out how to validate our tickets and a kind local demonstrates. We check the vaporetto maps, ask several locals, ask the skipper’s assistant: yes, to Murano.
We have no idea the route this boat takes because all of our maps show the islands on an inset, but we recall Alex saying it should take about 30 minutes. Soon we have no idea where we are. We certainly are not on open waters and are making a lot of stops. Suddenly, we realize we are back on the Grand Canal!! We study the map and a kind local asks if he can help us. He checks with the boat captain. We stop next at the Lido, he says, then to San Marco. Does the boat go to Murano? Yes. Another hour and a half.
Deflated (and in need of a restroom), we get off at San Marco and retreat to our locanda.
(That evening, Barbara tells us that the 41/42 lines are very confusing, even for the locals. You cannot always tell which direction the boat will go. If we like, she can arrange a boat from the Marco Polo Glass Co. to pick us up in the morning, free of charge, if we agree to tour their factory - no obligation to buy. It is perhaps the best way, she says. Then take the vaporetto back. We decide to forego the islands; we want to explore so much more of Venice on Sunday, our last day).
We regroup and head to La Fenice to see this famous opera house. On the way, we spy a tiny mask-maker’s shop - not the type you see all over Venice, but real artistry in masks obviously used in the theatrical performances. Good thing the artist is taking a rest or we’d be tempted to spend serious money here. The theatre is gorgeous! The ‘Cinderella’ ballet still has afternoon seats available, but we are in no mood to go back and change clothes. (Everyone is very dressed up for these performances!)
Instead, we take the Traghetto across the Grand Canal to see the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Fascinating! I especially like all the photos of Peggy from the 60’s, wearing her 60’s style wigs and clothing and, of course, holding a dog in every picture. The blue glass sculptures of Picasso sketches are also among my favorites.
We are sooo tired. DH wants a salad and sandwich for dinner that we can bring back to the hotel. We go next door to a place simply called, “BAR.” I’m telling you it was fantastic! The best ham and cheese of my life! My grilled sandwich plus large fresh salad and DH’s pizza panini and some peach nectar comes to 14,50 Euros and is every bit as satisfying as our other meals. To find it, go to the little Campo San Gallo on which you will see Teatro San Gallo, a small church, and the gate to our locanda at Sotoportego S.Zorzi. BAR is next door to the gate, and there are tables and chairs on the campo.
Late in the evening, we decide we would like dessert, something from a bakery, and, after a gelato stop on Calle dei Fabbri, head to a pasticceria we had seen previously near Campo S. Bartolomeo. It has a stand-up coffee bar and is full of locals. We choose some little cookies at random and are so pleased, we return to the counter for more. This time, I think to ask if they might have some soft amaretti cookies. The woman nods and hands me a lovely box tied with purple ribbon. 11,50 Euros! I gulp but buy it anyway, because I know these are impossible to get in the US where we live. I’ll take these to my mom. Important: These cookies are individually wrapped and double-sealed. They are called Caffarel Eccellenza Piemontese Delicati Amaretti Morbidi del Sassello. We decide ‘morbidi’ must mean they are deadly good. Later, we find out ‘morbidi’ means soft.
As we stroll along the little streets, we see Chiara, one of the young staff members from the locanda, walking her dog, talking on her cell phone, and meeting up with friends - part of the passeggiata ritual. She waves and greets us as if we are old friends.
May 28th, 2011, 04:10 PM
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* Attempting to share a few photos of Venice.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626701071027/
* Will try to truncate my posts.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626701071027/
* Will try to truncate my posts.
