Dolomites or Berchtesgaden
 

Hey everyone! So we (family of four, including 9 year old twin girls) are flying into Venice in early May. After a few days we will be heading north, as our preferred getaways usually include mountains of some sort. We are debating between the Berchtesgaden area, which we have been to several times and love, and the Dolomites. Our only experience in the Dolomites is a drive from Innsbruck down to Verona via the Brenner Pass.

I know early May isn't the best time of the year for the mountains. But we've been doing it off and on for the past 15 years so we know what we may/may not expect weather/muddy trails wise. I'm trying to figure out if any scenic lifts will be running during that time in the Dolomites? I found a few websites but not much. We were in Switzerland, in the BO, in April a few years ago and my girls' favorite activities were going up the various lifts (First, Murren etc). I know that the Unterberg will be running outside of Berchtesgaden but I can't find anything on the Dolomites.

For those who have been to both regions, can I ask which you prefer and why? We like beautiful scenery (which I already know each one has), crystal clear mountain lakes, cute smaller towns and just enjoying the mountain scenery. Hiking is a favorite pastime but again that will be weather dependent and we are fine with making that decision when we get there and are fine settling for more gentle nature walks. We will have roughly 5 nights before moving on.

Thanks!
Tracy

Just logistically, Berchtesgaden would be too far for me if I only had 5 nights and was (presumably) driving back to Italy. That's upwards of an 11-hour round trip.

I haven't been to either place in May, so I don't know about weather, mud, lifts, etc. I do know that, other than the mountains of Patagonia, I've never seen anything to compare to the Dolomites.

FWIW, we found the Ice Man Museum in Bolzano fascinating. Also, we enjoyed visiting several WWI sights.

Thanks for replying Jean. We are driving, renting a car from VCE after our visit to Venice. If we go to Berchtesgaden our next stop will be Slovenia before driving back to VCE for our flight home. If we do the Dolomites, well we need to figure out what is next. Still in the early planning stages. I would have preferred to fly into MUC but airfare was almost double that of VCE so it is what it is as they say.

We don't mind the longer drive itself, haven done many around Europe. We usually make the most of it by stopping to do things along the way. So I'm mainly just thinking about the differences in the region themselves.

Thanks for the tip on the museum! That sounds really interesting!

Tracy

We've been to both places but I don't have a clear preference. So much will depend on the weather and what's running at that time of year. Maybe this will be useful:

The Bolzen/Bolzano area seems more "open". There's hiking, shopping in the city, and the copper age "Iceman" mummy, Utzi, in a museum. The city has a nice feel to it and there's a cable car up the mountain. As you're in Italy prices might be cheaper.

Berchtesgaden is a small ski town but Salzburg is close by. (But shopping is expensive there!) You're more "in" the mountains in Berchtesgaden and the surrounding area has good hiking. And there's the Eagle's Nest, of course. (Visits to the Eagle's Nest are done through a specific process. Ask at the tourist info in town.) You probably know all this.

So hey, as long as you haven't been to the Dolomites try Bolzano. The weather might be better there in May anyway.

Bolzano could be a good compromise in early May, but generally I'd much prefer to stay IN the Dolomites. Castelrotto, Ortisei, La Villa Stern, Badia, Corvara, Cortina.... I think it would be worth your time to find out the conditions in those areas at that time of year before you decide.

Tcreath, here’s a Tripadvisor thread that might be helpful, https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...ino_Alto_.html. You may have already seen this site that provides the opening dates of lifts in Val Gardena, https://www.valgardena.it/en/summer-holidays-dolomites/lifts. Fabulous vistas with gentle hiking options in the Alpe di Siusi if you’re able to access that area in early May. Bolzano has a very attractive city center and agree with Jean and MichGuy that the Ötzi Museumin particular is well worth a visit. My trip report has some photos of Ortisei and the Alpe di Siusi at post 30 and Bolzano at post 41, https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/solo-in-italia-once-again-venice-bologna-ravenna-ortisei-bolzano-verona-1657983.

It is too early for the most popular (highest) region of the Dolomites (Val Gardena, Cortina etc.) IMO. Many hotels, restaurants, mountain huts, cable cars will still be closed. I think you should consider Merano/Bolzano or go to Berchtesgaden as planned.

I see no reason why you couldn't go to Slovenia after Dolomites too. If you enter Slovenia via Kranjska Gora, you could then take the road through the Soca Valley, stopping in Cividale on your way back to Venice. I absolutely love Slovenia so spending your whole time there is a third alternative.

I second Dreamon.
If you have enough time, I would do something like
Venice - Verona - Peschiera/Lake Garda/Gardaland fun park - Malcesine/Lake Garda - Riva del Garda - Rovereto - Trento (WW1 museum in the fortress) - Kalterersee/Lago Caldaro - Bolzano/Bozen (Oetzi Museum) - Brixen - Fortezza or Ortisei - Bruneck - Innichen - Sexten - Tolmezzo - Parco Narturale Regionale delle Prealpi Giulie - Uccea - Kobarid WW1 museum and Isonzo gorges - Nova Gorica/Gorizia - Grado - VCE.

I agree, I love the Dolomites and have no desire to return to Berchtesgaden. Once was enough and we spent a day in Salzburg which we did enjoy. Bolzano is nice. I wish I could remember the name of this castle we toured. Brixen is also worth a visit.

We have also been to both locations and prefer the Dolomites. They would work better with Venice too. We enjoyed staying in Ortisei and taking the gondolas or funiculars up both sides of the valley to the gorgeous mountain meadows above. I prefer Italy to the Germanic countries so that has something to do with my preference for the Dolomites.

Thank you all so much for your replies! You've given me a lot to think about.

Just a few things. We've been to Slovenia once before, for a few days following a trip up the coast of Croatia, and love the country. So beautiful! We do tend to prefer the Germanic countries as a whole, although we have a great love for Rome, our favorite European city. With that being said, I'm leaning towards the Dolomites just because they look stunning and we've never done them before. I am worried about the weather, but we frequently travel in early/mid May and weather is usually a concern regardless of where we visit. We are willing to take our chances to deal with less crowds.

I'm going to research some of the travel routes listed in the responses.

Thanks again and happy holidays!
Tracy

Good decision, you won't regret it. Lots to do as described above.

The drive north from Venice into the Dolomites is easy and scenic. By the way, you don't have to rent your car at VCE. There are several car rental offices around that bus area in the Piazalle Roma. (We always use Hertz and reserve ahead from the US.) But check on drop charges if you'll then drop at VCE.

Don't know what you saw in Slovenia. We were there last year and found that 1) one day in Ljubljana was plenty, 2) Lake Bled was scenic but very touristy, and 3) we wished we had planned more time in the Julian Alps hiking in the national park. And remember your highway sticker for the windshield. The other thing about Slovenia was the weather. We had rain and I guess the mountains to the north can trap moisture. May might be wet.

Safe travels.