denisea

Saturday, December 27 2014---The last day…..

I hate the last day. It always amazing me how quickly the time goes. We look forward to the trip for so long and in no time, it’s over. Reminds me of a wedding….plan and plan it is over in a few hours.

Our last trip to Le Bonaparte and our English and Express breakfasts. I am gonna miss the yogurt and butter slathered tartine baguettes. We enjoyed our last, leisurely breakfast and said our farewells to Pierre. I do always miss the people you meet who make your vacations memorable and great. He was really great to us.

For the first time on this trip, it was pretty cold out and the wind was something. We had to retrieve Chaz’ new fantasy shoes, so we walked back down to Edward Green to get his new shoes. A bit like Christmas all over again for him and the sales man hadn’t forgotten that he had gone against his sizing advice but laughed about it. Chaz was very pleased with them (and still is). We walked back to the apartment to drop them off and the box fit perfectly in Chaz’ carry on bag. Our plan to carry the new stuff on the plane with us was going to work out just fine.

It was time to make our way over to Musee Rodin to meet our friends. It had been years since I had been there. The wind was so bad that some of the museum outdoor grounds were closed. Bummer.

We met up with JA and MA and found that they happened on Le Souffle earlier and had lunch there. We worked our way through the museum—which is small and not too crowded. It is interesting and there is a great mix of sculpture and photos of the works as they were in progress. I have to say that while the sculpture is wonderful, I may be ruined for ever for sculpture after the Berninis we saw in Rome. It was interesting to get the stories behind many of the famous Rodin sculptures. I wish we could have gotten closer to some of the outdoor sculptures—not really sure why they were not accessible because of the wind. It was very cold and being outside was not too pleasant.

We said goodbye to our friends and headed down rue Varenne. I got my wish and we happened on Café Varenne and there were tables available for lunch. Chaz ordered a ham ravioli and I got the chevre chaud salad. We were seated next to a couple and the “he” part of the couple was one of those intellectual, know it all blowhards. It was so bad that the woman just suddenly jumped up and walked away while he was talking. I guess she knew there would never be a break in the conversation, so she just left to go to the restroom.

The food came and it was so good. I ate every last bite…greens, tomatoes, haricot vert, a medallion of warm goat cheese and the best vinaigrette. It was bright and perfect and I would love to have that for lunch every day. Chaz really liked his =, as well. An espresso to finish and we headed back to the apartment to finish packing before dinner.
I wanted to be packed before we left for dinner as our car to CDG was coming at 4:30am. They have changed the flights out of Paris to Atlanta and it now leaves at 8am (sucks) or not until 4pm.

We would check our rollerboards filled with our dirty clothes. We would each carry a shopping tote with 3 of the champagne flutes and our carry bag with our individual loot (Chanel, for me and Edward Green for Chaz) to take on the plane. I got all my VAT receipts and paperwork ready.

We cleaned up (last time in the Hobbit shower) and threw out the trash and were off to dinner, a few minutes later than we meant to leave.

This was kind of a disaster. I decided we would take a taxi because, in my poor planning, in made a reservation at Les 110 Taillevent—in the 8th and not really near a Metro station.

Well, getting the cab was the easy part—the rest just awful. First, back to my rant about taxi drivers not knowing the city anymore, the guy heads up BSG (away from the Seine) on a Saturday night. After a few blocks he entered in the address and still made no attempt to turn and they we are as traffic comes to a screeching halt and we are going the wrong way.

We sat in traffic at the light at Blvd St Michel forever. We finally got turned but were making no progress. 20 minutes later, we still hadn’t gotten to the Seine. I spotted the RER station and told the guy to pull over. We were never gonna get there with this guy. I dug out a few Metro tickets and we started jogging to to get to a train. I had glanced at a map earlier and knew the closest Metro station.

Saturday night and we ran up and down a ton of stairs, rode in jam packed Metro cars and changed lines 3 times. Line 4 from St Michel to Chatelet, Line 1 to the Charles de Gaulle Etoile station and then line 2 to Ternes (a lot of missteps getting to the line 2 platform). From there we had no idea which way to go and caught cab a short distance to Les 110 Taillevent. Holy cow---super stressful and I hate being late.

Our friends were on time and waiting for us at the table. We ordered Champagne and it was flat. Not OK at a place that advertises 110 wines by the glass, no flat Champagne. It took a bit to get the water back and I think he thought we were being difficult. He bought the bottle back with him and it seemed OK. Chaz ordered the octopus a la plancha—he loved that ast year and he enjoyed it again. We chose the restaurant because JA is a wine buff and we though he would enjoy access to so many wines by the glass. The waiter kinda ruined it because he kept getting the by the glass orders wrong---too many glasses 3 glasses instead of one, forgot someone’s glass all together….service was not good. I didn’t want to eat or drink much as I wanted my Ambien to kick in soon after I took at---not much time for much sleep tonight. I was irritated that we were out of water forever. The food was good….I got the pumpkin soup to start and the quail. I can’t remember what Chaz got (sorry).

No dessert (but the people next to me got the childhood memories sampler that I had gotten last year—chocolate mousse, rice pudding, floating island and crème caramel).

The food was good but our service was not. We said our good byes and easily caught a cab back. The Champs Elysees Christmas market was still going strong. It took us an hour, a cab, and 3 train lines to get there and a 10 minute cab back to the apartment. Next time, dinner will be close to the apartment!!

Next—the trip back and parting shots

RobertaL

I had a similar experience at 110 Taillevent. Just two of us eating at the bar and waiter got the wine order wrong (giving us the most expensive wine choice when we didn't order it). Lucky we caught the mistake. Food was good but service was off. Probably won't return.

denisea

this guy got it wrong constantly. I don't think he brought the wrong wine but definitely once time brought several glasses of something when only one had been asked for. he blamed the language barrier but I think he just wasn't paying attention. I probably won't go back.

Weekender

Hi Denise:

Years ago a friend recommended Cafe Varenne and it is one of my go to lunch places. Always good.

I had dinner last night with a friend who was wearing a Chanel necklace that she bought on one of our Paris trips. She also had on earrings from a little store named Fabrice which is on rue Bonaparte. Always timeless.

So enjoyed reading this!

yestravel

Disappointing to read about 110 - it was on my list of places to try on our next trip.

denisea

Weekender---totally right about Cafe Varenne. Have only been twice but it has been spot on every time. I know Fabrice---didn't buy anything there but they did have gorgeous things. I always love wearing my Paris Chanel---great memories and again, as you said timeless!!

yestravel--this is the down side of the TR...I hate to ruin anyone's idea of a place but we were disappointed with Les 110. You might follow the ratings on Trip Advisor close to your trip departure to see how others are rating their experience. Maybe they will get it together!

Judy

Too bad about your last meal.....I like ending on a high note. Your friends must think service in Paris is terrible!

Thanks for posting your report and I look forward to reading about the Amalfi Coast next.

kerouac

Going all the way back to strawberry blonde, it is "blonde vénitienne" in French. (blond vénitien for men)

And yes, in my opinion, it is important to eat close to where you are sleeping on the last night in Paris. The quality of the food matters less than the convenience as far as I'm concerned.

john183

As always, I'm really enjoying your report. You certainly have some crazy adventures. I know it isn't funny but I had to smile when you described possibly knocking yourself out from hitting your head on that damn pole a bunch of times.

Like you, we have enjoyed eating at Café Varenne several times and are looking forward to lunch there again in April during our family trip to cheer for our 2 crazy daughters running in the Paris Marathon. I read somewhere that they are under new management and that the flamboyant Eric is no longer there - so disappointed that we won't see him. Glad to hear the food is still good but for us it won't be the same without Eric - he was fantastic with our two granddaughters.

flpab

Wow, you were probably running in heels! I am a huge amazing race fan and those cabbies are clueless half of the time.
Pumpkin soup sounds delish and so want a soufflé after this. That place is on my to do list.

kerouac

Pumpkin soup is indeed excellent and anybody can make it. Just for the record, it is usually about 50% pumpkin for 50% potato when you blend it.

gracejoan3

I discovered 110 Taillevent several years ago and it was great at that time. We enjoyed many visits there. I told many about it and then it became busier and less desireable. I took it off my dining a year ago. I am sorry that Roberta had a bad time there..and am sure they went there because of my previous good times there! They have such a very short time in Paris that they do not need to waste any of it.

Taxi drivers have a hard time with it, and some think the big 110 is their address!!

Couldn't be better this year!!

a bientot..

Joan

denisea

kerouac-- your command of English and French is impressive as always! So there is a term for strawberry blonde---and you can make pumpkin soup!!

I swear, john183, it's a wonder I didn't knock myself out on that stupid pole.

flpab, I think Chaz was stunned that I decided to ditch the cab and find another way! We'd still be sitting in that cab in horrendous traffic. I can definitely run in heels!!

denisea

The trip home

The car was on time for the trip to CDG at 4:30am. We somehow managed to get all of our stuff down the stairs in one trip and with minimal noise (I think, I am hoping we didn’t wake others up at that hour).


No issues getting to the airport and it was practically deserted as we arrived. There were few check in desks open and no separate check in for business class at Delta. We got the guy who didn’t know how to do anything. To me, this is so France…none of his fellow employees seemed to care that they were doing nothing and that we had been standing at the desk with this guy forever. Then he couldn’t change the paper or something and I had to ask if we could finish at a different terminal and he could deal with the paper later. It was ridiculous how long we were there. Everyone who had been behind us had come and gone. Fortunately, he agreed to finish at a terminal with a working printer and the bags were checked.

Next, the VAT desk. Everything seems to have changed with this since last year. There was no manned desk and you go to a kiosk to scan your receipts. Two of mine scanned and two didn’t. Even someone using another kiosk couldn’t get them to scan. I tried a different kiosk but could never get it to work and there was no one to ask. Also, I think I put the envelope in the wrong box, so who knows if I will get any of the money back. This would work great if the codes scan…if they don’t, I am not sure what recourse you have. Maybe there are attendants during business hours???

Then we got some bad info about having to take a shuttle but that turned out not to be quite right. We did have to get on a train to our gate and then went through security. As we were waiting to go through security, I saw woman approaching and she walked right up and got in front of me. Truly amazing-am I invisible?. I wasn’t having it and looked at her and said, Excuse me but I was here first. She did step aside but didn’t seem surprised or embarrassed or apologetic. I guess you just try it and if the person lets you get away with it, you win. If not, whatever. We had asked Florent and Mika about the fact that no one on the sidewalk ever moves out of the way. They told us that most just feel like that have a right to be on the sidewalk and that the “weaker” person is the one who moves. Crazy…I don’t like to run into people so I am quite weak it seems, as I do move. To me, that’s polite. However, I am not weak enough to allow someone to cut line in front of me. ☺ Next trip, I am going to wear full football pads and body slam everyone who dares to be on the sidewalk with me!! Sound good?

Security was fine and we headed to the Air France lounge. Chaz even passed a Starbucks and didn’t go there. We had a little breakfast and made our way to the gate. None of the gate agents seemed to have an organized system or goal of getting the plane boarded but we finally began boarding. I was walking down the jet way when they pulled Chaz aside for a closer look. Are you kidding? This happened to him a few years ago.

I went ahead and took his bag with our Baccarat in it. We needed to claim overhead space!! The agent let me take it, which was kinda crazy as I think back on it. I got the two bags loaded up perfectly. And waited, and waited and waited and no Chaz. I went to the boarding door and they would not let me back up the jet way to see what was going on. Several minutes later, he finally appeared. Thank god. They went through everything he had, removed the shoes, the shoe trees and all of the clothes he had in the bag with a fine tooth comb. Not sure what they think they will find that slipped through the initial security screening. The man told Chaz he had 8 passengers on the flight to pull aside for additional screening. Of course, when it is over then you have to repack your bag on your own and you never get it re-packed the way you had it in the first place.

We got settled and had a last glass of Champs. Au revoir, Paris.

The flight back seems to get longer every year! It goes on forever. I don’t know why but I was trying so hard to stay hydrated (and didn’t drink any additional wine on the way back)—so I drank a ton of water and it just ran through me. I swear I think I made at least 15 trips to the rest room on the trip back---it was crazy. I am sure the people around me thought I had some kind of issue.

It wouldn’t be a flight without the annoying fellow passenger. This time, it was a woman who had a friend who kept visiting from coach. I hate when someone stands “over” me for lengthy amounts of time. Plus, I was trying to listen to my movie and her talking over me was super annoying. The woman she was visiting also does not get that opening your shade up, is not really OK. She just kept doing it and the flight attendants would walk by and close it and then a few minutes later, it would be up again----blinding. After the 3rd or 4th visit from her friend, a flight attendant finally told them it wasn’t ok. I am always amazed that people will stand in the way of flight attendants trying to get though and provide service and they never move and never recognize that standing in the aisle is not a great idea.

The food was good on the return flight and they do bring out food every few hours. I did get caught up on movies and am now hooked on the TV show Episodes (really funny). Eventually, we landed in Atlanta. We got our bags very quickly and went through passport control at a Global Entry kiosk. Somehow we got my picture on Chaz’ entry slip and were hoping it wouldn’t be a problem. The customs officer asked us what we bought and then waved us on through when we told him. Nice – no money owed and customs and immigration were fast. The trip was easy and the pups were glad to see us! We were home by about 2pm (that is the nice part of that really early flight).

We still love Paris, without a doubt. I still need a map and I actually had an app on my phone that I forgot I had. We definitely still get lost and still seem to always go the wrong way. I don’t know why I didn’t take a map with me. ???

Favorites:

Paris by Mouth food tour---my favorite thing of the trip; we loved all the cheese and those crème puffs were also a favorite---highly recommend

Verjus- great food and wine and all around experience for a very reasonable price—will definitely go back for dinner on our next trip.

Cuisine de Bar---I coulda gone there several times—great spot for lunch or snack—I am sure breakfast there would also be great

Café Varenne for my favorite dish of the trip – the Chevre Chaud Salad

Apartment neighborhood – I love the 6th and the areas around St Sulpice and the St Germain des Pres church—great access to transportation, close to lots of shopping, sites and dining options

Pierre at le Bonaparte and my butter slathered tartine baguettes

Chaz and his “Holy Grail” of shoes—he has coveted them for years, so it was great to see him get them at long last

A glass of Champs in all the Christmas “crazy” at Galleries Lafayette and the people we chatted with there

Those roasted potatoes and Sole meunière at Allard

The gorgeous flutes we got at Baccarat—we will enjoy lots of sparkling wine from them for many years

Global Entry – worth the money!

What we didn’t love on this trip:

The Hobbit shower

The disappointing service at Robuchon (but the food was terrific)

Willi’s Wine Bar—food wasn’t very good---nothing special

The awful, stale and burnt palmier we got on Isle St Louis on Christmas Day

Chaz getting chosen again for extra screening while boarding


I don’t think we have ever done less sight seeing or planning for a trip. Our focus is food and wine and some shopping. There is so much great food in Paris and overall, we were very happy with our meals (though the service at times was less than desirable). There is still so much we have not gotten done in and around Paris. Next trip will have to be in warmer weather---I really want to go to Giverny and Vaux le Vicomte. I don’t know when it will be but we will get back there! Thanks for reading and for your comments, as always. Safe travels everyone.

Cathinjoetown

I can't find anything good to say about CDG.

Want to see a photo of those shoes!

Loved this report and your summary.

benitakaren

Wonderful report. Will miss waking up in the morning and immediately looking for your daily report. Can't wait for your next adventure.

denisea

Oh gosh cathinjoetown....I will say that Edward Green is known for very well made shoes...

below is a link to a photo of the shoes Chaz got. They are Westminister in dark oak.

https://www.google.com/search?q=edwa...%3B1504%3B1000

Cathinjoetown

Very nice. Not showing them to my husband!

denisea

Totally understand---he wore me down over a few years and because he has put up with my Chanel addiction without complaint!!

yestravel

Great report! Love the summary at the end. Each trip to Paris it seems we do less and less sightseeing and more and more just hanging around and eating gret food.