Do you think the Vasari Corridor is worthwhile?
 

I'm planning a revisit to the great city of Firenze and looking at the things I didn't get to the first time around, among them, a tour of the Vasari Corridor.

Several tours are available and while it appears interesting to me, I'm curious to hear the opinions of Fodorites who may have visited it rather than relying on descriptions that of course want to entice you to do it.

Has anyone visited and what is your opinion of its appeal and worthiness? I love art and history and could spend days in museums, but I'm not the biggest fan of portraits, unless on a tour that provides a broader context (which these tours seem to do). I'll only have about 2.5 days in Florence so I'm trying to budget my time well.

Thanks for the input!

I am sorry I have not done it but I would be interested in what you feel a "broader context" actually consists of. Does this mean information you would not otherwise be readily aware of from basic research? Interesting trivia? Anecdotal tidbits? IMO all of those things can make so-called static works of art more interesting provided the information is evidence-based. When it isn't I think it is helpful to preface any remarks with the phrases, "Legend (or tradition or local lore) has it that..."

Broader context being exactly what you said! When it comes to portraits, I have little interest in looking up details of said portraits on my phone whilst in a museum - I'd rather spend more time (and phone battery) in other sections. I don't find them as compelling as religious works, certain kinds of landscapes, modern settings, etc. From a technique standpoint they can be fabulous, of course, and I appreciate them for that, but the subject matter doesn't draw me in like a good Annunciation or a compelling scene of some kind (like Thomas Cole's Voyage of Life).

I gladly do research on many things, but even then, an occasional tour (like the free guided tour I recently took in the National Gallery in DC) provides such a nice touch of the progression of a certain style, notable works in the collection, background story on a piece or why it was commissioned, etc. The National Gallery has a portrait by Leonardo da Vinci (Genevra) and it was much more interesting because of the docent's information.

From my understanding, the Vasari Corridor is only accessible by group, so my main question is if others think it's a worthwhile use of $100 (or more) USD because a tour is my only way.

I have done it, and loved it.

This was about 8 years ago, and you could only visit the Vasari after an hour or so tour of the Uffizi, which I neither needed nor wanted.

After that, a guard opened a small door and we went through a hall painted with blue hookah-smoking grotesques and into the Vasari. We didn't have much time to look at the portraits (I had seen some of them at an exhibit in New York, which sparked my interest in the corridor, and I was barely able to pick out a few favorites).

The exciting part for me was walking along this beautiful passage that I'd only ever seen from the street below. We went across the Arno, around the tower whose owner wouldn't let Vasari cut through, through the church of Santa Felicita (and the Medici's private balcony, where they could sneak in for Mass), and on towards the Pitti; we came out in the Boboli next to the Buontalenti Grotto.

It was absolutely worth the money to me, I was thrilled. My husband, less of a Florence fan, was not so impressed.

Regrets: that we didn't go all the way, start in the Palazzo Vecchio and end in the Pitti. That I had to take the Cook's Tour of the Uffizi first (although the guide was excellent). I would have liked more time with the self-portraits.

Also recommended, if they still do it-- the Secret Passages tour of the Uffizi. You get up in the rafters (over the Hall of 500, I believe), and through secret staircases and into the Studiolo, where our guide explained the whole metaphysical organization of the paintings and cabinets.

Bookmarking

Interesting how different persons evaluate art. I can live without the corridor if 100 or more dollars is the price. But I really fell in love with the the Uffici and PalazzoVecchio.

On the side, I think the Secrets Passages are located at the Palazzo Vecchio not at the Uffizi.

I assume Frangelico's Annunciation is in your radar for this visit.

Anyway enjoy beautiful Firenze

A bit off-topic but one thing I always enjoy about those "groupie" (my term) works in which a whold bunch of people, animals, angels, and other beings are shown in an environment that is supposedly the "Holy Land" and has this uncanny resemblance to the Italian countryside, complete with architecture, is knowing, or being told exactly who they really are, or were.

Enemies and friends of the artist or the person who commissioned the work inevitably make an appearance and when the Pope or some archbishop manages to be a witness to events including the Annunciation, the Flight, the Arraignment Before Pilot, any of Jesus' miracles including raising Lazarus, stonings, death with deadly arrows, etc., well that's what makes it so much more memorable IMO.

Exactly right, the Secret Passages are at the Palazzo Vecchio.

@colonna great recommendation on the secret passages tour! I'll have to look up when they're running it during my stay. Thanks for your review of the corridor - it's good to know they don't start at the beginning of it. The Context Travel tour doesn't include a quickie tour of the Uffizi (which, like you, I don't need) though the Viator tour does include it.

@jelopez Beato Angelico is one of my all-timefavorites - a visit to San Marco is right at the top of my list of things to enjoy during my stay. And then I'll probably go back to Santa Maria sopra Minerva I'm Rome for the 100th time where he's buried. :)

@dukey I suppose you could call me a "groupie" groupie then! ;)

Context is everything for those paintings. Considering that so many of these were commissioned for a certain side chapel or church, the context means a lot. Really all saints while on earth and all the faithful are invited to be 'present', to contemplate those moments depicted and so, including St. Catherine of Siena in a scene of the Holy Family after the birth, as an example, is a representation of something she most certainly contemplated in her early life and what we can imitate of her life. Or a painting can also represent a favorite saint (or patron saint) of a particular person who commissioned it or the church where it was originally located (likewise the background of an Italain city and countryside). Essentially to me it is the life of a Christian in all times and all places - the universality of the Church and its connection to the past and present.

And then there are the people who are perhaps atoning for their sins with this painting to decorate a church (like the Scrovegni chapel's judgement scene, if I'm remembering correctly) or showing their patronage, naming it after themselves, so to speak. Similar in concept to a gift someone makes that has a naming right opportunity attached to it and the wing of a hospital is named after them. And of course there's nothing quite like putting one of your enemies in a scene of anguish in hell :)

These are the stories I love that make them come alive and to understand the original purpose and how the collective memory of these pieces can take on additional to meaning at different times. Different styles and depictions that still speak to a common subject matter! (Writing all this is making me all the more excited for February to get here soon)

Ducinaltum:

I was really happy that I was in the same trip at San Marco and at the Prado in Madrid.
Two Annunciations from the talented Beato in one trip!

If you don't know San Marco yet, you will enjoy your visit.

As a plus, you can see many objects that pertained to Savonarona.

Enjoy your visit.

"Savonarona"........Savonarola!

Ma-ma-ma-my Sharona!

Anyway, San Marco was something I heard about *after* my 2006 trip and since then I have longed to go back to Florence with the express purpose of visiting San Marco. To say I am excited is an understatement.

Have never been to Madrid (yet) but the Prado is high on my list of things to visit. Lucky you to see two at one time and able to compare and take them in! I was with a friend in Orvieto this past February and Beato Angelico worked on part of a vaulted ceiling. It's marvelous to see works like that in situ.

Thanks!

Update:

This may only apply to a small subset, but what is the internet for if not arcane knowledge that sometimes only applies to a few? :)

I received an email from the tour provider I booked for the Vasari Corridor tour (required for a visit) in early February. Because of a new policy implemented by the new director of the Uffizi, tours of the Vasari Corridor will no longer be allowed on the 1st Sunday of each month. Bummer for me as I won't be able to make it happen this trip but hey, maybe I'll just have to come back to Florence for a third time?

Websites for these tours that I checked have not yet been updated so if you are planning a future trip to Florence and plotting out your schedule in advance, please note that 1st Sundays are no longer an option. I'd hope that these sites are going to be updated soon but I thought I'd drop a friendly reminder in case.

I was in Florence last Sunday - first Sunday of the month and the middle of a 4 day weekend for many, as Tuesday was the feast of the Immaculate Conception. Many Italians made a "ponte" (bridge) by taking Monday off as well.

First Sunday is the day museums are free. For Florence residents, just about all museums. For the rest of us, just the big ones of the "Polo Museale" - Uffizi, Accademia, Palazzo Pitti, etc.

I'm told the wait time for entry to the Uffizi (for those without the Florence card) was 3 hours.

At the Palazzo Pitti, the line crossed the internal courtyard, stretched down the entire forecourt, then took a 90 degree bend and ran another 200-300 feet.

We focused instead on places most people wouldn't go: San Miniato al Monte, Bellosguardo, Villa La Petraia....

One hopes other first Sundays will not be so fraught.