Dinner in Lyon
Dec 16th, 2008, 07:27 AM
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Dinner in Lyon
We will be in Lyon for two evenings late July 2009 and would like recommendations for dinner. With a budget of 75 - 100 Euros for two aduts, which restaurants would you return to? or have wanted to try?
Two years age we were in Lyon and found that "wandering" the old city didn't result in the fantastic food we'd been led to expectfor the city. Thus the request for restaurants you've tried or have heard "don't miss" in our price range.
merci,
Two years age we were in Lyon and found that "wandering" the old city didn't result in the fantastic food we'd been led to expectfor the city. Thus the request for restaurants you've tried or have heard "don't miss" in our price range.
merci,
Dec 16th, 2008, 07:46 AM
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When last in Lyons we were amazed that Leon de Lyon had repositioned itself as a brasserie. And, being in a quiet street, it's got a huge terrace on the pasvement, which is vital in midsummer.
A scrumptious meal, with a fair amount of George Duboeuf's mid-price Chiroubles and the like came to about €30 a head. At the time some of the dozier travel websites (like Fodors) thought it was still charging Gault Millau 19/20 prices.
The professionalism, attention to detail and sympa-ness of the whole crew was still 19/20.
A scrumptious meal, with a fair amount of George Duboeuf's mid-price Chiroubles and the like came to about €30 a head. At the time some of the dozier travel websites (like Fodors) thought it was still charging Gault Millau 19/20 prices.
The professionalism, attention to detail and sympa-ness of the whole crew was still 19/20.
Dec 16th, 2008, 07:55 AM
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I concur with flanneruk on the quality of Léon de Lyon. I don't remember precisely what we paid for a meal for two with wine: I think it was a little more than €30 per head, but not a great deal more.
You could also try one of the Bocuse brasseries. We visited Brasserie du Sud, and were very happy with our experience. For kir royals, set meal, good wine, and coffee: €99 for two.
You could also try one of the Bocuse brasseries. We visited Brasserie du Sud, and were very happy with our experience. For kir royals, set meal, good wine, and coffee: €99 for two.
Dec 16th, 2008, 08:27 AM
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In addition to the above suggestions, Buldo (http://www.buldo.net/) is a lovely little restaurant, particularly at the height of summer when the decking area (with a view of L'ile Barbe) is open.
The decking sits above the Saone and in the height of summer is one of the more agreable ways to keep cool(ish) whilst enjoying a good evening meal - and a bottle or two of wine - in Lyon.
Whilst not the best food I've eaten in Lyon, it's very good and you'll have change from 100 Euros.
The decking sits above the Saone and in the height of summer is one of the more agreable ways to keep cool(ish) whilst enjoying a good evening meal - and a bottle or two of wine - in Lyon.
Whilst not the best food I've eaten in Lyon, it's very good and you'll have change from 100 Euros.
Dec 16th, 2008, 08:29 AM
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This is where locals took my husband and I out to dinner one night while visiting Lyon on business: http://www.lamachonnerie.com/
It was fantastic; great prices, AMAZING wine selection.
It was fantastic; great prices, AMAZING wine selection.
Dec 16th, 2008, 08:39 AM
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I haven't eaten at Leon de Lyon but have heard plenty of good things about it so that would certainly be a good option.
A fabulous place that I ate at earlier this year is called le Potager des Halles, on rue de la Martiniere (in the first arrondissement, just behind place des Terreaux). Outstanding food - we had the 3 course set menu at 32 euros - with good service and a great atmosphere. There was a definite emphasis on seasonal food with a nod to some local/regional specialities. I'd thoroughly recommend it - it's certainly not on the usual tourist trail but definitely worth a visit (you'd need to book).
Another great little place is La Table d'Hippolyte on rue Hippolyte Flandrin, also in the 1st arrondissement. Intimate restaurant with a small menu that changes regularly, again with the focus on local/regional produce. Haven't eaten there for a while, but last time we were there we had a great meal.
Personally I don't rate the Bocuse brasseries at all - have eaten at 3 of them (several times at Le Sud) and have always found them to be overpriced with mediocre food and service.
A fabulous place that I ate at earlier this year is called le Potager des Halles, on rue de la Martiniere (in the first arrondissement, just behind place des Terreaux). Outstanding food - we had the 3 course set menu at 32 euros - with good service and a great atmosphere. There was a definite emphasis on seasonal food with a nod to some local/regional specialities. I'd thoroughly recommend it - it's certainly not on the usual tourist trail but definitely worth a visit (you'd need to book).
Another great little place is La Table d'Hippolyte on rue Hippolyte Flandrin, also in the 1st arrondissement. Intimate restaurant with a small menu that changes regularly, again with the focus on local/regional produce. Haven't eaten there for a while, but last time we were there we had a great meal.
Personally I don't rate the Bocuse brasseries at all - have eaten at 3 of them (several times at Le Sud) and have always found them to be overpriced with mediocre food and service.
Dec 16th, 2008, 08:55 AM
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When I a went solo a couple of years ago ate at Brasserie Georges, La Machonnerie and L'Est. From my trip report...
First is a Belle-Epoque style (open since 1836) restaurant that was a Michelin recommendation. I liked it and the crisp service. Place was full. They seem to specialize in seafood, I had the sole meuniere. Cost was 60 euro for full meal: mineral water, 1/2 bottle wine, foie gras, sole, dessert, coffee.
Machonnerie was at the cathedral end of Old Town. Recommended by someone here at Fodors. This was not one of the touristed restos. Small place, the owner/chef was extremely friendly. Food was "bouchon", traditional local cuisine. Start with his version of kir, called a gnafron...kir punched up with marc of Bourgogne. It had a warming kick to it. Had the 29 euro menu..bread tray,Salade lyonnais, Patte de Caillon sauce tartare (Breaded pigs feet in Mustard sauce), Pochon de soupes au canuts is super soup(Bread, cheese, onions, cream) that waiter comes out to serve with big laddle,Quenelles de brochet maison sauce écrevisse en cocotte. (Pike dumplings in nice sauce,whole 6” long crayfish), desert of a plate of glace cassis then waiter came over with a mini barrel of marc and sprinkled some on, mineral water, carafe of house red. Total was ~45 euro. I wobbled out of the restaurant..and felt like I'd just had a culinary/social event that I would come back one day to try and re-create.
Last was one of the Paul Bocuse's restos in the city. The food was good, but not the best I've ever had. Nice setting, good service. I'd eat there if I was in the neigbourhood. I had Kir, mineral water, glass wine, terrine of duck,
volailes de Brest (chicken) with potatoes, large salad,desert of pear tart, coffee..Total was ~47e.
Panier a Salade in Old Town I'd skip, La Marquise bakery in Old town was worth a stop. Narbonne was a recommended place for ice cream in the Old Town, at the the opposite end from the Cathedral..between the main street and the river.
Hope this helps
First is a Belle-Epoque style (open since 1836) restaurant that was a Michelin recommendation. I liked it and the crisp service. Place was full. They seem to specialize in seafood, I had the sole meuniere. Cost was 60 euro for full meal: mineral water, 1/2 bottle wine, foie gras, sole, dessert, coffee.
Machonnerie was at the cathedral end of Old Town. Recommended by someone here at Fodors. This was not one of the touristed restos. Small place, the owner/chef was extremely friendly. Food was "bouchon", traditional local cuisine. Start with his version of kir, called a gnafron...kir punched up with marc of Bourgogne. It had a warming kick to it. Had the 29 euro menu..bread tray,Salade lyonnais, Patte de Caillon sauce tartare (Breaded pigs feet in Mustard sauce), Pochon de soupes au canuts is super soup(Bread, cheese, onions, cream) that waiter comes out to serve with big laddle,Quenelles de brochet maison sauce écrevisse en cocotte. (Pike dumplings in nice sauce,whole 6” long crayfish), desert of a plate of glace cassis then waiter came over with a mini barrel of marc and sprinkled some on, mineral water, carafe of house red. Total was ~45 euro. I wobbled out of the restaurant..and felt like I'd just had a culinary/social event that I would come back one day to try and re-create.
Last was one of the Paul Bocuse's restos in the city. The food was good, but not the best I've ever had. Nice setting, good service. I'd eat there if I was in the neigbourhood. I had Kir, mineral water, glass wine, terrine of duck,
volailes de Brest (chicken) with potatoes, large salad,desert of pear tart, coffee..Total was ~47e.
Panier a Salade in Old Town I'd skip, La Marquise bakery in Old town was worth a stop. Narbonne was a recommended place for ice cream in the Old Town, at the the opposite end from the Cathedral..between the main street and the river.
Hope this helps
Dec 16th, 2008, 10:07 AM
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I am really exicted about the many different suggestions for dinner in Lyon. Thank you fodorites. Yes, I know its months away but for me half the fun is planning and dreaming about the trip...
Yes, I'm dreaming about a wonderful evening on a terrace in Lyon with fabulous food....
Keep the suggestions coming,
Yes, I'm dreaming about a wonderful evening on a terrace in Lyon with fabulous food....
Keep the suggestions coming,
Dec 16th, 2008, 03:01 PM
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A French friend took me to a bouchon call, I believe, Les Trois Cochons, in Lyons (not in the old quarter, but near that main square whose name I forget right now). It was delicious and inexpensive!
Dec 17th, 2008, 03:33 AM
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Julie - with all the dinner suggestions I thought I'd suggest a great spot for a good and inexpensive lunch, which is Cafe 203, just behind the opera house.
Their set lunch menu - main course with salad, dessert and glass of wine will run to about 7/8 euros. The cooking is simple but great (they've even released a couple of books)and the artwork on the walls changes weekly.
It's small and very popular, but if you time your arrival towards the beginning or end of the standard French lunch 'hour' (entre midi et deux) it shouldn't be a problem to get a table on the tiny terrasse.
I can't wait to be back in Lyon. Two months to go and counting...
Their set lunch menu - main course with salad, dessert and glass of wine will run to about 7/8 euros. The cooking is simple but great (they've even released a couple of books)and the artwork on the walls changes weekly.
It's small and very popular, but if you time your arrival towards the beginning or end of the standard French lunch 'hour' (entre midi et deux) it shouldn't be a problem to get a table on the tiny terrasse.
I can't wait to be back in Lyon. Two months to go and counting...
Dec 17th, 2008, 03:40 AM
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I haven't eaten here in a long time, but my favourite restaurant in Lyon is La Voute-Chez Lea. Absolutely marvelous quennelles, sweetie darling.
www.lavoute-chezlea.com
Thingorjus
www.lavoute-chezlea.com
Thingorjus
Dec 17th, 2008, 06:19 AM
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If you want a nice place to sit and have a lunch, consider eating at Place des Terreaux. There are multiple restaurants with tables outside under umbrellas. What makes this area nice is the square itself. Built in the 17th century, you are surrounded on all sides by old buildings. City Hall was built in 1674 and is a grand building that you will not tire of looking at, on another side is the Art Museum, housed in an Old Benedictine Abbey (the courtyard of which is also worth a look). Also in the Square is a fountain designed by the same person who did the Statue of Liberty. I ate there a couple of times.
Dec 17th, 2008, 06:45 AM
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Agree with Michel Paris that Place des Terreaux is a great spot. I love sitting and people watching there.
If you want a really spectacular terrace then you could book a table for lunch or dinner at la Maison Villemanzy, which is on the slopes of the Croix Rousse hill in the 1st arrondissement (metro Croix-Paquet). The restaurant sits on the hillside with wonderful views of the city and the Rhone river. The food is regional and always tasty (and good value) though not haute cuisine. You have to book well in advance to get a table on the terrace/with a view though. http://www.maison-villemanzy.com/uk/navigation.htm It's fun to take the metro there as you have to take Line C, which is a cog-wheel line that goes steeply uphill. As it's not a funicular the seats aren't staggered, so make sure you are sitting facing the direction of travel or you may slide off your seat!
If you want a really spectacular terrace then you could book a table for lunch or dinner at la Maison Villemanzy, which is on the slopes of the Croix Rousse hill in the 1st arrondissement (metro Croix-Paquet). The restaurant sits on the hillside with wonderful views of the city and the Rhone river. The food is regional and always tasty (and good value) though not haute cuisine. You have to book well in advance to get a table on the terrace/with a view though. http://www.maison-villemanzy.com/uk/navigation.htm It's fun to take the metro there as you have to take Line C, which is a cog-wheel line that goes steeply uphill. As it's not a funicular the seats aren't staggered, so make sure you are sitting facing the direction of travel or you may slide off your seat!
