Dining like the locals in Provence?
 

While we will do a splurge meal from time to time, it seems that our most interesting experiences in France have been in small, unassuming places where 15-25 euros lets you dine among the local folks. And my French is passable enough that no English is no barrier. I can often sniff such places out myself, but would welcome any suggestions. We'll be there for 12 days this Fall, so any and all locations are welcome.

Great question. I'm going in Sept/Oct and would also love to hear suggestions for small places like this.

Im going in June!!

On our last trip through France, we found ourselves driving along the river Sorgue (having reached Isle sur la Sorgue too late to find parking for Market Day) -- we went through the town of Fontain de Vaucluse, meandered along the river in the opposite direction and we stopped for lunch at a tiny restaurant called L'Eau de Vivre. The fresh trout obviously came straight from the river. We also stumbled onto a fun place to stay called Mas de Tamar. (Tamar is the delightful proprietress, originally from Maryland, now married to Anthony who is Swiss. Super people, beautiful place.) We walked back to town the next night for dinner, in a less inspiring restaurant...more touristy than we would have hoped for. But we will always remember that little place where we had lunch! There was a fabulous patio/deck area out front where we sat (although later walking through the inside we found it to be very inviting as well). This was early-mid October in 2006.

If we are ever again in the Luberon, I expect we'd stay with Tamar again, and certainly return to L'eau de Vivre for a meal or two!

Our most reliable source of information about local restaurants has been the wine shop in any given location. If there is none available, the bakeries are also good sources of information. And, failing all else, for some unknown reason, we have also gotten very good recommendations from the proprietors of local shoe stores.

Just WHERE in Provence will you be?

Well, our base will be in the small village of Venasque, but we plan to tour widely by car. So, assume we'll be everywhere/anywhere, and we'll narrow it down from there!

I’m interested in suggestions for Avignon, Gordes, Bonnieux, Les Baux, St Remy, Arles, Aix

Le Bistrot du Paradou has been a popular place. You will need reservations..

Joan

SemiMike,

While you are in Venasque, if you see someone on the street who looks like Tour de France winner Greg LeMond, that will be him.

Even though it lost its Michelin stars years ago, Hielly Lucullus, in Avignon still provides a very good traditional dinning experience and they are unfailingly courteous to tourists with limited French.

You are not too far from Gordes, and the restaurant there certainly has earned its Michelin ranking. But, the prices suggest that the Michelin stars are not the only astronomical reference.

If I were in Venasque, I would make a point of checking for concerts in the Abbey of Senaque. I think they begin in May and are on nearly every weekend.

Arles: Le Criquet(near the Amphitheatre). I think three course(choice) dinner runs about $22 euros. It's a wonderful place. It is small so best to make reservations.

Just outside of Gordes on the road to Joucas is Le Ferme de la Huppe or du Huppe. You will be able to get a five course menu for around 40 euros. This might be a splurge but meals of this caliber wil cost you far more elsewhere. The service and atmosphere are equally good. Bear in mind there are always a few substitutions so ask. I think they are open for lunch on Sundays. Whatever days the schools are closed during the week so it goes with the dining room there.

Paradou is one of my favorite places but it's more than the OP wants to spend. Also if you are more than 5 or 10 minutes late Jean-Louis may not seat you.
In Bonnieux, I like Le Fournil,
In Arles, L'Atelier ($$$)
for dining amoung locals, l'Affenage.
Les Baux, La Riboto de Tavern,
Outside of Gordes in Les imberts, the charming Mas Touteron,
Isle -sur-sorgue, Le Jardin du Quai.
And our favorite inexpensive "local" was Le Progress in Eygalieres.

Definitely don't miss Jean-Luc Rabanels Atelier in Arles.

And Les Tellines in/near Sambuc in the Camargue, if you can find it.

I am in the minority here but I was very underwhelmed by L'Atelier in Arles. We went because we had eaten at La Chassagnette when the chef cooked there. The room is very austere and the food presentation is just over the top precious.It is very pricey. We were there in October of 2007 and the menu was 90 euros per person. Soon after that we discovered Le Criquet and were happy all over again with French food.

I agree Pam, I liked his dishes when in La Chassagnette. Now he's doing a Feran Adria spin with the foam. and the modern serving pieces. I preferred his organic style. But, saying that Arles doesn't offer much in Fine dining since Vaccares closed.

My two favorite meals in Provence were at Heilly Lucullus in Avignon and at Le Mesclun in Seguret. Both experiences are etched into my memory and I long to experience them again. And both meals were quite reasonable, as dining in France goes.

We enjoyed two fine meals (and reasonably priced!) at La Trielle in Rousillon. It's up the pathway to the church

cage, I've been to both and agree. The view at Mesclun is wonderful.
In Aix, pricey but very good, the Clos de Violette

Thanks for the update, Pam. We'll skip l'Atelier next time around. I can't see paying that much for foam.

Thank you everyone for all the fabulous suggestions! Keep them coming!