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Dingle/Killarney B&B
I'm planning to spend 4 days of my 12 days in Ireland exploring Co. Kerry. I found a couple of stables for horseback riding in Dingle (this is the only have to do thing we planned right now). We want convenient night life to walk to but still be able to get sleep if we wanted. Am I better off just staying in Killarney for 4 nights (to avoid changing rooms) or splitting it between Killarney and Dingle? Is there much to do in Dingle at night?
Here are some of the places we've considered, I'd appreciate any information anyone can offer on them (bad/good experiences, recently under new owners or being remodeled, actually able to walk to town): Killarney: Earls Court House (is it true some rooms have new tvs and others old 13"?) Parkfield Killarney Lodge Old Weir Lodge Chelmsford Dingle: Barr Na Sraide Pax House Castlewood Coastline Guesthouse |
Dingle town is wonderful with a great deal of nightlife. If I had four nights, one would be in Killarney and three in Dingle. I don't ride horses but the the beaches and cliffs around Dingle on the Sleahead drive are on everybody's must do list. If you want quiet at night but a short walk to the night life in Dingle I would say Ashes. 100 yards north of town but a 5 minute walk to the upper road. The Beagle Pub Had some the best Trad. music I have had in Ireland and the harbour is another 5 minute walk down the road. Have fun
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I like Greenmount House in Dingle. It's a five minute walk up a hill from the town. It's very comfortable and the views are outstanding.
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JOHNOD: I'm guessing you're referring to Ashes on Spa Rd and not James G. Ashes on Main St. right? I've heard of the Sleahead drive but really don't know anything about it. how much time would I need for it?
From what I've read on posts, Dingle sounds absolutely lovely. It's hard trying to guess how much time we would want to spend in each town, I'd almost be tempted not to commit to any reservations. But...since I'll be there at the end of May, I feel it would be less stressful to have accomodations planned ahead of time. I was originally planning to spend less per night but it seems that every B&B I've looked up is around 50 euro/pps or more, is that the going rate these days? Chatham: Thanks Greenmount does look really nice. I'll have to check it out also. |
Dingle is really worth a stay and I would split and do 2/2 (IMHO). We loved it so much we have included it again into our 2nd trip coming up next month!
The Slea Head loop is a 30 mile circular tour beginning and ending in Dingle Town. Rick Steves Guide book has a fantastic step by step self tour that you can set your odometer to. We followed this tour in October 2005 and it can take anywhere from 4 hours to all day depending on # and length of stops. We went clockwise and stopped at Dunbeg Fort, Beehive Huts, Slea Head lookouts, Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar Church. Gallarus Oratory was a highlight of my trip. The Blasket Centre is also on this loop but we skipped it to thaw out from an October storm that day (and hope to see it on this next visit). You can google Slea Head Drive for area pictures and some virtualtourist comment links. Should you decide to do it I do recommend following Rick S's book on it. Below are a few places I have bookmarked in Killarney & Dingle Town as being well mentioned. This time around in Killarney we have chosen Ross Castle House. Good Luck! :) Dawn http://www.carrigleahouse.com/ http://www.crystalspringsbb.com/index.html (Friar's Glen) http://indigo.ie/~fullerj/index.htm http://ashvillekillarney.net/index.html http://killarneyb-and-b.com/RossPage1.htm and in Dingle near town... http://www.cillbhreachouse.com/index.html http://www.emlaghlodge.com/ http://www.lighthousedingle.com/ http://www.greenmount-house.com/index.html |
We have stayed at Carriglea House in Killarney and at the Lighthouse in Dingle and I would HEARTILY recommend both. Both ARE a bit of a hike from their respective town centers (which is good for a quiet night's sleep), but both have tremendous views, pleasant staff and unique charms.
If you opt for Carriglea, see if either of the 'suites' above the old carraige house are available. We stayed in them in June of 2005. The views of the Lakes from the front windows was inspiring. Likewise the views of the harbor from the front, upstairs views at Lighthouse. Bob |
Thanks for all the input (and links!).
I don't mind a decent a 10 or 15 minute hike to town. I'm leaning towards 2/2 between Killarney and Dingle instead of having to drive all the way back to Killarney at night. So far my overnights will be Dublin-3 Kilkenny-1 Killarney-2 Dingle-2 Galway-2 Ashford Castle-1 Bunratty-1. I didn't originally intend to stay at so many different spots but from what I've heard about driving in Ireland I suppose it's just as easy to check into a new place every other day instead of doing extra driving. |
In May of 2002 we did stay at Coastline. I had wanted to stay at B&B's and try to avoid "hotels". We ended up moving from Coastline to Benner's hotel. Coastline was fine but it was a bit of a walk to town esp. up the hill and down the lane... When it was dark, it was dark. We actually would have spent more time in town if we hadn't been staying at Coastline. It is a beautiful locatation but if you want to go out for the night to the pub etc. I'd try to find something closer.(fyi, at the time I was in my mid thirties and DH in late forties)
Have a wonderful time |
Thanks, that is the kind of things I can't find out from a website...moderate walk to town but down a pitch black road ;-)
My main reason to be close to town/pubs and so when I retire for the night I know my college age kids won't have far to wander back from the pubs. |
Chloe2,
Greenhouse in Dingle is as I said a five minute walk down to town. We didn't take our car out of the parking lot. By the way, take small flashlights or buy them. Coming back from pubs they come in very handy. |
Chloe2, I gather you haven't been to Ireland before?
When we went the driving on the other side of the road was a bit to get used to. I'm hoping someone with more experience might comment on your itinerary. You would not want to visit Dingle and then drive back to Killarney at night for sure. My husband and I have a joke now about a "ten minute walk" Everytime we asked someone how long it would take to walk somewhere they would say 10 minutes when it was 15 or 20 and I walk fast. Now we say "is that an Irish 10 minutes?' |
We stayed at Bambury's Guest House last July in Dingle and really enjoyed our stay. It is very close to town, there is sidewalk to walk on to town. I loved Dingle. I took the boat ride to see Fungi the dolphin. It was fun, Fungi put on a great show. Have a wonderful trip. I loved Ireland so much we are going again in summer 2008.
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Lauricelli:Yes this will be my first trip to Ireland :) I like your "Irish 10 minutes" it seems that almost every B&B said they were just a quick 5 to 10 minute walk to town!
Being the unofficial chauffeur for the trip, I want to make the driving as easy as possible. I'm fine with driving on the left side and turnabouts but thanks for reminding me about night driving. No reason for me to have to stress out wandering between Dingle and Killarney at night. Bamburys already sounds good because it has a sidewalk! The simple little things we take for granted here in suburbia ;-) |
Hi Chloe
While in Dingle i would stay in the Harbour Nights B&B lovely house and the couple that own it are so nice rates start at 30 euro per person Hope you have a lovely holiday in Ireland. |
While checking out various B&B's I've come across the no hot water at night. Is this more common in certain towns? Would this necessarily mean I should cross a B&B off my list if they follow this? If anyone can share their insight or experiences with this I'd appreciate it. Thanks
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Good B&Bs will have hot water for their guests to use at all times unless something weird happens like the electricity goes off all day. It is the iffy B&Bs that pinch pennies at their guests' expense. Just choose good B&Bs.
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With regard to hot water & Irish B+B.
Most good B+B as you put it usually has hot water come on at 6 or 6.30 am and goes off at 10 or 11pm at night. Nobody leaves water on all night when guests are usually asleep. Oil has become costly to use and as most homes in Ireland use it to heat their homes and for hot water and unneccessary waste of it is not good for our environment. Most normal folk shower in the morning or at suitable time in the evening not after midnight. In Ireland we do out best to conserve energy and do our bit for turning back the tide on our race against Global Warming. Maybe you should consider doing the same and have a shower at a reasonable hour of the day. |
Killarney is a bigger town than Dingle with a much greater choice of excellent B&Bs and a greater choice of nightlife, maybe split it 3 & 1.
Very few tourists are aware of the "Gap Trip" - start at Kate Kearney's cottage about 10.30am and walk, cycle, horse back or horse trap the 7 miles to Lord Brandon's Cottage in time for lunch and then get a boat trip down through the Upper Lake under the old weir bridge to the meeting of the waters and across Muckross Lake and under Bricin bridge to Loch Lein and to Ross Castle for about 3pm. The boat trip is about €15 per head but you will need to park your car at Ross Castle or Kate Kearneys and get a taxi from one to the other. Could also get Deros bus to take you back to Kate Kearneys, they will also arrange the boat ride or it can be done at one of the B&Bs you mentioned - The Old Weir Lodge. An unforgettable experience. Killarney also has much more activities to offer in the National Park - through the domain opposite the Cathedral or through Muckross Gardens to Dinis Cottage. |
I liked both Killarney and Dingle, but I really found there is more to see and do in Killarney. We spent 4 nights there, and could easily have spent more time. We didn't do the full trip through gap of dunloe, though we did get a jaunting car at Kate Kearneys. Muckross house, gardens, Muckross Abbey, Ross Castle. Plus one day we drove the Beara Peninsula from there. There is tons of stuff to see and do.
We spent 2 nights in Dingle, and spent one full day plus part of another seeing the peninsula, and that was plenty. SO if it were me, I would do 3/1 Killarney/Dingle. We stayed in Earl's Court, and our room was lovely. it was a big suite, in the brand new wing of the inn. I'm not sure anybody had even slept in that room before us last summer. We could smell fresh paint, and they were still hanging mirrors and such. Service was great, as was breakfast. I can't say if other rooms had old TV's, ours had a nice new flat screen. It wasn't all that close to town, though. I wouldn't have wanted to walk it after a few drinks at the pub. and streets were very busy. |
Kerryman: The Gap trip sounds like something my kids and I would enjoy. Is it best to find a prearranged tour or are horse traps and boats both available on the spot?
I really like what I've heard of Dingle so I've decided to keep 2 nights there and Killarney. By the time we get to Dingle a slower pace might be good, and it seems that there will still be plenty of pubs and restaurants. In Dingle, I checked Bamburys and Emlaugh Lodge and they both weren't available. Calling various B&Bs I ended up booking a room at Harbour Nights. I also have reservations at Kingfisher in Killarney. I partly chose both of these places because of the pleasant conversations I had with the owners of each, the location and the prices were very reasonable. Kingfisher is right in Killarney and Harbour Nights I know will be a little bit of a walk but I'm planning to have my small flashlight handy like Chatham had recommended so I can navigate from any pub at night. Our 12 nights will be divided: Dublin-3 Kilkenny-1 (Rosquil) Killarney-2 (Kingfisher) Dingle-2 (Harbour Nights) Galway-2 Ashford Castle-1 Bunratty-1. |
Horses and or jaunting car available without booking, however, it's 7 miles or 2.5 hour walk, you might not need them or it might be possible depending on numbers to could pay for say two spaces on a jaunting car and use them alternatively for the first half of the trip,the second half is all downhill.
Might be better to put your name in for a boat seat before travelling however as they can only take 12 in each boat. The trip can also be done in reverse ie get the boat up from Ross Castle. Last year I think it was about €15 per person for the boat and around the same for a jaunting car seat. Try to following number if you want to book a boat seat - you can pay on the day and would only need to ring the evening before +353 87 2694646, ask for Ducks or any of the O'Donoghues and say Gary sent you. |
Your kids will probably like the Muckross Tradition Farms portion of the Muckross House and Garden tour. They can be done separately, or combined.
Recently refurbished Ross Castle is one of the FINEST castles in Ireland and well worth the time. South of town on the road to Kenmare is Ladies View. You'll want to stop in the car park and peruse the Tourist Shop, but the REAL Ladies View is a bit further south. There's a wide, dirt pull-off on the right (heading South)marked with only a small sign, You can't see much from the car, but if you climb up over the low rise (only ten or twenty feet from the parking area, the views are TREMENDOUS. Lots of people on this board prefer Kenmare but I'm a Killarney kinda guy. Bob |
Actually, the Gap of Dunloe trip is a popular tourist trip and can be booked through Deros Tours (http://www.derostours.com/) What Deros does is get you from a few central locations in Killarney (Old Weir Inn, Tourist office etc) to Kate Kearney's. You pay for the boat trip and the bus ride and you can now add on the cost of the jauting car ride or bargain with the drivers when you get there. There are sections of the ride that you still get out and walk because it's too much strain on the horse. The coast also covers the bus trip back to the starting point from Ross Castle.
As far as Dingle vs. Killarney, trust me, you can find dozens of great B&Bs in Dingle and I easily prefer Dingle to Killarney and would also pick Kenmare (on the other side of Molls Gap) over Killarney. Both Kenmare and Dingle have excellent options for dining and places to stay and there are plenty of entertainment options in Dingle. Killarney has a reputation for selling out to tourism over 100 years ago and many love it and many hate it. What I will say is that you are more likely to find entertainment geared entirely to tourism in Killarney than you would in Dingle. Some of the best trad in Ireland can be found at the Small Bridge in Dingle and there are a number of other pubs too that put on great music. I always stay at "The Shores" on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula, easily my favorite B&B in Ireland. Yes it involves a trip over Conor Pass, but I've done it lots of times. Where ever you stay, I wouldn't ever suggest that there just isn't enough to do in Dingle so only stay there 1 night. I could stay there for a week. Now go blow out the pilot light on your water heater. Bill |
Having a tour company like Deros take care of all the details would be nice.
I'll probably do the Gap of Dunloe stay over in Killarney then (not sure what order) Ladies View, Ross Castle and anything else that I could do that day and still get to Dingle by midafternoon. I haven't figured out if I'm a Killarney girl yet, but I guess I'll find out in 6 weeks! Killarney will make my drive from Kilkenny a little easier since I plan to stop at Cashel and Cahir on the way. I won't worry about the town choices I've made since it's getting close and no matter what town I end up in, I'm sure I'll have a great time. Even the bad experiences when I'm travelling end up being the things to look back and laugh at. My agenda for Dingle pretty much is a little horseback riding, then food and pubs, and maybe a hot shower?! I'm really hoping for a little down time while we're there, since vacations can be exhausting! |
We were able to get a jaunting car at Kate Kearney's last June with no problem. In fact, it was totally uncrowded and there were lots of drivers standing around. We simply did a ride in and out, and it cost 40 euro total for 3 of us in the jauntion car. We never had to get out of the cart to walk. And the 3 of us are, well, not small people. It was a bit of a strain on the horse I think. Our driver would occasionally jump in the cart, and sometimes walk beside us.
I think doing the whole trip would be great. And I agree that Ross Castle is a really nice castle to tour, I think your kids would really enjoy it. |
oh, and also, let me put in a plug for the Scuirid tour in Dingle. If you have time for it, its very worthwhile. The guide knows a LOT about the history and archaeology of the peninsula. Its an excellent half-day tour.
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