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Degas Paris Walks: The Marais (Jan 06)

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Degas Paris Walks: The Marais (Jan 06)

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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 06:41 AM
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Degas Paris Walks: The Marais (Jan 06)

THE MARAIS

Check this revised walk out and give me some feedback on things to see/do and places to eat/drink/people watch.

Link below has some nice photos of the area:

www.parismarais.com/histo...norama.htm


START AT METRO: HOTEL DE VILLE

HOTEL DE VILLE. 29 Rue de Rivoli. M: Hotel de Ville.

Paris's grandiose; 19C City Hall sits on a large square with fountains and attractive lampposts. Building is closed to the public, but the info center sponsors exhibits on Paris in the main lobby. The elaborate façade is grandly lit at night. In 1944 the Resistance occupied it and drove off Nazi attacks until relieved by Free French forces.

BEHIND AND TO THE EAST OF HOTEL DE VILLE IS:

ST-GERVAIS-ST-PROTAIS. Place St-Gervais. Impressive gothic interior. Elm tree outside under which justice used to be administered. Associated with the term ‘waiting for doomsday.“

Facades of houses on rue des Barres behind the church are worth looking at and several streets in the Quarter of St.Paul have fine 17C & 18C details.

WALK EAST ON RUE FRANCOIS-MIRON

#44 is a wonderful building built around a timbered courtyard and over a vaulted 13C cellar.

#68 Hôtel de Beauvais. One of Paris's most charming hôtels. A plaque says Mozart lived there in 1763. To visit the interior, apply to the Association du Paris Historique on the ground floor.

#82 Here is the 18C home of a contemporary photography center. Wed-Sun 1100-2000.

RUE DU FIGUIER LEADS TO THE CHARMING:

HOTEL DE SENS. Along with the Cluny, it's the only remaining 15C architecture. Leaded windows and turrets characterize the facade; you can go to the courtyard to see ornate stone decoration--the gate is open Tue - Fri from 1330 to 2030. Sat 1000 to 2030.

TO THE EAST, QUAI DES CELESTINS COMMANDS NICE VIEWS OF THE ILE ST-LOUIS

Between rue des Jardins-St-Paul and parallel rue St-Paul, the former gardens of King Charles V were restored as a series of courtyards with antique craft boutiques perfect for browsing.

www.parismarais.com/villa...t-paul.htm

ST-PAUL/ST-LOUIS CHURCH. RUE SAINT ANTOINE. Good example of French Jesuit style inspired by 16C Italian churches. Has ornate interior and fine art works. Quiet little place to rest.

WALKING EAST ON RUE SAINT ANTOINE, YOU REACH THE ELEGANT

HOTEL DE SULLY. 62 rue Saint Antoine. Has a good bookstore. The courtyard abounds with carved decorations. Possible to walk through the garden to Place des Vosges.

PLACE DES VOSGES. MÉTRO: CHEMIN-VERT. Oldest square in Paris laid out at the start of the 17C. It boasts 36 brick-and-stone pavilions rising from covered arcades that allowed people to shop no matter what the weather. Nice place to take a break.

www.parismarais.com/place-des-vosges.htm

MAISON DE VICTOR HUGO. 6 place des Vosges. Closed mon. 1000-1745. Museum Card. Views of square from upper rooms.

FROM THE NW CORNER OF PLACE DES VOSGES, YOU CROSS RUE DE TERENNE (ON THE LEFT AT 23 IS A PRETTY HOTEL (1660) WITH A COURTYARD AND FOUNTAIN) AND ENTER RUE DES FRANCES-BOURGEOIS.

www.parismarais.com/rue-d...rgeois.htm


TAKE THE FIRST LEFT ONTO RUE DE TURENNE, STAY ON THE LEFT TO SEE

#314, A FINE GARDEN BACKING UP TO A HOUSE ON THE PLACE DES VOSGES

CROSS OVER THE STREET AND TAKE THE FIRST RIGHT ON TO RUE DE JARENTE AND TURN SECOND LEFT INTO RUE CARON, WHICH LEADS TO

PLACE DU MARCHE-STE-CATHERINE.

NOW TAKE A RIGHT ON TO RUE D'ORGMESSON AND A FEW YARDS LATER TAKE ANOTHER RIGHT ON TO RUE DE SÉVIGNÉ
AT NO. 23 IS THE:

MUSÉE CARNAVALET 23 rue de Sévigné. Closed Mon. 1000 to 1745. Métro: St-Paul. Free.

Devoted to Parisian history, they include many salons filled with antiques and historic artifacts. The Revolution section includes models of guillotines and objects associated with the royal family's final days.

www.parismarais.com/le-ma...-guide.htm

CONTINUE TO A POINT NEAR THE NORTHERN TERMINUS OF RUE DE SÉVIGNÉ, NOTING # 29 (NOW PART OF CARNAVALET). THIS IS THE:

HÔTEL LE PELETIER DE ST-FARGEAU: This structure bears the name of its former occupant, who was considered responsible for the death sentence of Louis XVI. It's used as offices and can't be visited.

NOTE: If you want to see another Delamair work, detour to 60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois to see the extraordinary Hôtel de Soubise, now housing the Musée de l'Histoire de France

AT THE END OF THE STREET, MAKE A LEFT ONTO PRETTY RUE DU PARC-ROYAL, LINED WITH 17C MANSIONS. IT LEADS TO PLACE DE THORIGNY, WHERE AT #. 5 YOU'LL FIND:

MUSÉE PICASSO: The museum occupies the Hôtel Salé, built by a salt-tax collector.

WALK NORTHEAST ALONG RUE THORIGNY AND TURN LEFT ONTO RUE DEBELLEYME. AFTER A BLOCK, NEAR THE CORNER OF RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE, AT 108 RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE, IS A WORTHWHILE ART GALLERY:

YVON LAMBERT: Specializes in contemporary art displayed in a cavernous main showroom.

CONTINUE NORTH FOR 2 SHORT BLOCKS ALONG RUE DEBELLEYME UNTIL YOU REACH RUE DE BRETAGNE AND STOP AT A GOOD DELI AT 14 RUE DE BRETAGNE:

LES ILES GRECQUES: This deli is a popular ethnic take-out place and perfect to buy picnic supplies before heading to square du Temple (up rue de Bretagne) or place des Vosges.

NOW WALK SOUTHEAST ALONG RUE CHARLOT FOR A SHORT WHILE AND TURN LEFT AT ONTO RUE DES 4 FILS, THEN GO RIGHT ON RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE TO NO. 87, WHERE YOU'LL COME ACROSS DELAMAIR'S:

HÔTEL DE ROHAN: Interior is usually closed, but if its open, check out the amusing Salon des Singes (Monkey Room). Sometimes you can visit the courtyard, which boasts a fine 18c sculpture, The Watering of the Horses of the Sun, with a nude Apollo and four horses against a background of exploding sunbursts.

ALONG THE SAME STREET AT NO. 47 IS THE:

HÔTEL DES AMBASSADEURS DE HOLLANDE: Beaumarchais wrote The Marriage of Figaro here. It's one of the most splendid mansions in the Marais,.

CONTINUE WALKING SOUTH ALONG RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE UNTIL YOU REACH:

RUE DES ROSIERS (Street of Rosebushes): one of the most colorful streets remaining from Paris's old Jewish quarter. The Star of David shines from shop windows; Hebrew letters appear, sometimes in neon; couscous is sold from shops, restaurants serve kosher food. Often the wonderful smell of frying onions and Falafel fill the air.

TAKE A LEFT ONTO RUE DES ROSIERS AND HEAD DOWN TO RUE PAVÉE (PAVED STREET). THIS WAS THE FIRST STREET IN PARIS TO HAVE COBBLESTONES PLACED OVER ITS OPEN SEWER. TURN RIGHT AND WALK SOUTH UNTIL YOU COME TO THE THE ST-PAUL MÉTRO STOP.

MAKE A RIGHT ALONG RUE FRANÇOIS-MIRON AND CHECK OUT NO. 68, THE 17C:

HÔTEL DE BEAUVAIS: One of Paris's most charming hotels. A plaque says Mozart lived here and played at the court of Versailles. Louis XIV presented the mansion to Catherine Bellier, wife of Pierre de Beauvais and lady-in-waiting to Anne of Austria; she reportedly had the honor of introducing Louis, then 16, to the facts of life. To visit the interior, ask the Association du Paris Historique on the ground floor.

CONTINUE TO WALK ALONG RUE FRANÇOIS-MIRON UNTIL YOU COME TO A CROSSROADS, WHERE YOU TAKE A SHARP LEFT ALONG RUE DE JOUY, CROSS RUE FOURCY, AND TURN ONTO RUE DU FIGUIER, WHERE AT NO. 1 YOU'LL SEE THE:

HÔTEL DE SENS: Along with the Cluny, it's the only remaining 15C architecture. After the archbishops had departed, the wife of Henri IV, lived here. Her new lover, "younger and more virile," slew her old lover as she looked on in amusement. Leaded windows and turrets characterize the facade; you can go into the courtyard to see more ornate stone decoration -- the gate is open Tues to Fri from 1:30 to 8:15pm and Sat from 10am to 8:15pm.

RETRACE YOUR STEPS TO RUE DE FOURCY, TURN RIGHT, AND WALK UP THE STREET UNTIL YOU REACH THE ST-PAUL MÉTRO STOP AGAIN. TURN RIGHT ONTO RUE ST-ANTOINE AND CONTINUE TO NO. 62:

HÔTEL DE BETHUNE-SULLY: Work began on this mansion in 1625 and the relief-studded facade is very appealing. It is now the National Office of Historical Monuments and Sites, with an information center and a bookshop inside. You can visit the interior with a guide on Sat or Sun at 3pm, and can visit the courtyard and garden any day; chamber music concerts are often staged here.


EATING:

Auberge Nicolas Flannel. 51 rue de Montmorency, Les Marais. Good for lunch. Interesting to note for Harry Potter Fans: the real Nicolas Flannel (alchemist) lived here in the oldest building in paris which dates from 1407.

Au Bascou: (tel 01 42 72 69 25, 38 rue Réaumur, 3e, metro Arts et Métiers). Basque classics. Closed Sun.

Chez Jenny: (tel 01 42 74 75 75, 39 blvd du Temple, 3e, metro République). Cavernous 1930s-style brasserie, open 11.30am to 1pm daily.

Le Petit Picard: (tel 01 42 78 54 03, 42 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4e, metro Hôtel de Ville). Traditional French, open for lunch weekdays and for dinner Tuesday to Sunday.

Robert et Louise: (tel 01 42 78 55 89, 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, metro Saint Sébastien Froissart). This 'country inn' - delightful French food, open for lunch weekdays and for dinner, Mon to Saturday.

Le Trumilou: (tel 01 42 77 63 98, 84 quai de l'Hôtel de Ville, 4e, metro Hôtel de Ville). Authentic, very inexpensive French meals, a Parisian institution, open for lunch & dinner daily.

Le Valet du Carreau: (tel 01 42 72 72 60, 2 rue Dupetit Thouars, 3e, metro Temple or Republique). Main draw is the wonderful terrace under the chestnut trees facing the old Carreau du Temple market. It's open for lunch weekdays and for dinner to 10.30pm, Mon to Sat.

Pitchi Poi': (tel 01 42 77 46 15, 7 place du Marché Sainte Catherine, 4e, metro Saint Paul). Eastern European Jewish restaurant beamed down onto a picturesque square. Open for lunch and dinner, daily.

Chez Marianne: The walls are covered in pictures of Marianne, the female symbol for the French Republic. The food good and the service friendly. 2 rue des Hospitalieres Metro: St. Paul. Dishes under $12, open daily.

Self-Catering: Several food shops and Asian delicatessens on the odd-numbered side of rue Saint Antoine, 4e, between the Monoprix supermarket at No 71 (open 9am to 9pm, Mon to Sat) and the Supermarché G20 at No 115 (open 9am to 8.30pm, Monday to Saturday). There's a Franprix supermarket at No 135 on the same street (open 8.30am to 7.45pm Mon to Sat, and 9am to 12.45pm on Sun).


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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 07:16 AM
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Thank you for the suggestion it is a great walk. Just to let you know that the Hotel de ville is OPEN to the public once a week.

There is a guided tour that included of all the reception rooms,it lasted about 1h30 to 2hrs. The rooms have a very elaborate decor with their painted ceilings, scultures all done in the pompier style.

The conférencière is very knowledgeble about France's III république. The tour are small (6 to 12 persons) and are simply reserved by phoning the protocol bureau of the Hotel de Ville.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 07:26 AM
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This is the Degas Walk I took with me to Paris last October! Thanks for an updated version.
Adding my two cents worth I can reccommend a lovely little restaurant a stones throw-away from the Musee Carnavalet. It's called L'Oree Du Marais, 29 rue Francs Des Bourgeois.
I had the most divine melt-in-the-mouth boeuf bourginon! With a glass of wine & a coffee the bill only came to 19.50euros. It's a good stop before or after the musee (which happens to be in the same street because it takes up the whole block from rue de Sevigne to rue Payenne with an entrance in Francs Bourgeois).
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 08:43 AM
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Hi tod & LuckyLuc, thanks for the feedback.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 09:46 AM
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ttt very impressive work!
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 10:27 AM
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I wish I could be "there" right now...and giving this all a try! Right now. Now now now
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Somewhere on your route of march is my favorite restaurant in Paris, Le Pamphlet. It is tres francaise, not touristy, and reasonable about 45e per person. Normally, you need a reservation.

Anthony
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 10:35 AM
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LL, which day of the week is the Hotel de Ville open to the public? Thanks.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 06:31 PM
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Gariem,
It change every week depending what events have been booked by the mayor. The tours are free you can reserve by phoning the protocol bureau at 01.42.76.54.04
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 08:15 PM
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Bookmarking.

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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 10:13 PM
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Slight correction - I mistakenly said the entrance to Musee Carnavalet was in rue des Francs-Bourgeouis. It is indeed in rue de Sevigne!
Two books on Paris that I am reading at the moment both suggest that you return at night to see Hotel d' Aumont & Hotel de Sens dramatically illuminated and rising out of the darkness like a stage set. One of the most beautiful sights of nightime Paris!
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Old Feb 2nd, 2006, 08:56 AM
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Thanks for the feedback - keep those new ideas coming!
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Old Feb 14th, 2006, 11:58 AM
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bookmarking
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Old Feb 14th, 2006, 05:35 PM
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Hi degas,

I'll be heading to Paris at the end of March and will be staying at a place on the Rue de Pont Neuf. I wanted to spend more time exploring the Marais this trip so this info is perfect.

tod & Powell - appreciate the other restaraunt tips as well.

Quick question - have folks visited the Musee Picasso? Any feedback? (I've been to the larger museums on previous trips and wanted to see a smaller one this trip)

Ciao!

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Old Feb 14th, 2006, 07:19 PM
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Very nice tour. Perhaps you might consider a few of the sites associated with Jewish history in the Marais. The synagogue on Rue Pave, for example, designed by Hector Guimard. Just a thought.
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Old Feb 15th, 2006, 02:48 AM
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like2bike, I enjoyed the Picasso Museum, and it is in a beautiful Marais mansion. As we were leaving, we saw a little girl sitting on the ground in the courtyard drawing the scene around her; she must have been inspired by the art within.
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Old Feb 15th, 2006, 06:20 AM
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Restaurants in the Marais we enjoyed last fall:

In Place des Vosges we ate at Salon Victor Hugo. Right on the corner, it was a charming place to have a brunch on Sunday morning. We found it to have more inexpensive choices than some of the other places in the square.

Camille, 24 rue des Franc-Bourgeois. This was a traditional corner brasserie. The menu was on a chalkboard that the waiter brought to our table. The food was delicious and reasonably priced.

Pain, Vin, Fromage, 3 rue Geoffry L’Angevin. This is on a small side street near the Pompideau. It was a classic fondue place. I never knew there were so many fondues to choose from! It was delicious and reasonably priced. Make sure you ask for a seat in the basement. It's a charming stone cellar.

Finally, I have to put in my two cents about Robert et Louise which was already mentioned. Definitely go there!! It was great. So authentic, from the open fire pit where they grill the meat, to the wooden trestle table at the back where they put you if you don't have a reservation (move over when more people come!) to the charming collectables hanging on the wall, the black poodle running around...I could go on and on. It was one of our most memorable meals. Take cash, they don't accept credit cards!
 
Old Feb 15th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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Thanks Nikki - the Picasso it is, then!
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Old Feb 15th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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Yes! The Picasso Museum is an absolute GEM. It doesn't get the press the d'Orsay or Louvre does, of course, but it's a splendid collection housed in a gorgeous mansion.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2006, 09:08 AM
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Thanks for all the feedback. Anybody else want to chime in?
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