Debating Cinque Terra
 

Hello Everyone!

I am planning an Italian honeymoon 8/30-9/12 and have planned the following:
Rome, Chianti, Florence, Cinque Terra, and the Dolomites (Fly out of Milan). Our objective is to have diversity in our travel, and I think this itinerary will accomplish that (large cities, hillside/wine country, coast, mountains).

I have started doubting our time in Cinque Terra, reading some negative comments about it being over-toured with Rick Steeve's books in the hands of almost everyone. I understand it is not the "secrect" that it once was, but we were looking forward to the hike and the water. Any feedback on this is appreciated or any suggestions of other coastal towns (probably not Portofino from what I've been reading) that may compare.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Betsy, yes the Cinque Terra is not like it was at one time, before RS started raving about it.

But IMHO you can still enjoy it and it seems a shame not to go there for a short visit. Nothing is like it once was. How nice it was at one time to just wander into the Colloseum in Rome without lining up, buying a ticket etc.
Or having to pay to get into a church (although we always left a donation in the box).

Have a beautiful honeymoon and explore for yourself what each area you are chosing is like. ((*))

We have the same dilemma. Friends visited in September and indicated that Cinque Terre is pretty crowded and not as charming as they had first found it 6 years ago. However, I think it is worth a stop and we will probably spend 2 days there this fall about the time you plan to go. I hope the major tourist crush is over by mid September and we would like to go before it gets even more popular.

I was in Vernazza in the CT in September and left after less than an hour. It was crawling with American tourists and I am probably one of the posters who commented on Steeve's books being on every table.

I have been to Italy 13 times now and there are many wonderful places to visit. The Dolomites is a wonderful choice (may I suggest Cavallino D'Oro for a romantic stay- they book up very far in advance so you would need to do this soon).

The rest of your itinerary sounds wonderful but I would discourage you from visiting the CT. Personal opinion.

Most of the CT towns are overrun except for tiny Man. and Cor. Also the 6th and 7th little towns to the south (Portov., Lerici) are very charming and connected by boat rather than train. Cor. is just too inconveniently high and steep, but Man. is a gem. It's shorewalk and park is among the most pleasant, and for facilities you can walk to Rio. in a few minutes. Walk the other way for the most paradisical beach around - you walk a long, disused train tunnel UNDER Cor. which takes you to a private beach for a small fee (maybe you are expected to be nude there).

I would also recc riviera towns to the north such as Camogli just on the other side of Portofino penninsula - the town is super-cute and the penn is a fantastic park with long day walks, such as to Portofino and monateries along the way. SML and the next town south also appeal.

I was in Manarola for a week in 2003 with my daughter and grandson .
Manarola is a small quaint charming village , very quite especially at night.
We really enjoyed CT and hope to go back there again..

Although we liked the Cinque Terre towns, we much preferred Portovenere en Lerici on the Gulf of the Poets. There were far less tourists and the towns seemed pretty authentic to me.

I really like your diversity, but you are hoping to see 5 destinations in 13 days--that is a bit much. I would drop one--perhaps see Florence for a day from Chianti. The CT makes more sense if you fly from Milan, but do not forget your last nite near the airport--that would make 6 hotels. Think about that.

The Cinque Terre region of Liguria is lovely with a rocky coastline similar to that in Northern California. Indeed, there are tons of tourists that have "discovered" these 5 jewels along the formerly remote coastline; however, you will have a slight advantage not going there in the middle of summer. While tourists are still there in full swing in mid-September (I was just there end of September and it was still crowded); the numbers are fewer than those in June/July/August. I am the first to complain of the blessing/curse that Rick Steves brought to the region. Fortunately for the residents, the monies pouring in from tourism euros has helped to spruce up the train stations in the towns (Riomaggiore and Manarola), rebuild the pedestrian tunnels (Riomaggiore), fix sections of the hiking trails, etc. So I look at it as all those tourists are helping the Italian economy.

Of the five towns, I like Riomaggiore, Manarola, and Monterosso al mare the best. You will find the most lodging options in Monterosso (the largest of the 5 towns); however, as the others have stated, Manarola is quite nice, as is Riomaggiore. I personally avoid Vernazza as that is THE haven for Rick Steves groupies and the prices there are higher than in the other 4 towns. However, it is worth seeing the lovely enclosed harbor and shops around it - just don't stay there!

I think spending 2 days in the CT would be adequate and would allow you to take a boat down to Portovenere for an afternoon excursion, as well as going further up the coast (via train or boat) to explore as well.

Its definitely a beautiful place and its definitely overrun with Rick Steves followers. When we were there it was almost comical how many people were either speaking of Rick Steves or holding his book. Either way, it was beautiful and definitely worth a one or two day stop. The hikes are wonderful. Enjoy!

You have received wonderful advice here--from alternatives that will provide nearly the same experience without so many tourists to reconsidering the large number of stops you are planning. Important considerations all. Let me add another. I discovered CT about the same time as Rick Steves and developed a large file on it over many years. Finally went a year or two ago. Had I gone when I first discovered it, I'd not have had to contend with nearly as many other tourists. But I'm also guessing that had I not gone when I did and put it off yet longer, I would be contending with even more. If you think you want to go someplace for reasons of scenery rather than "scene" as in it's where the crowds are all going to party this year, the sooner the better. Aside from a natural disaster that wipes out the scenery you had intended to see, the number of fellow tourists you encounter will almost certainly increase the longer you delay. That said, there is only just so much one can do in x number of days, and I'm with BobtheNavigator, your itinerary is really pushing it.

Thanks, everyone, for the replies! I'll probably go to the C.T. and reconsider my aggressive schedule. I am thinking of cutting out the Dolomites due to location. My fiance will be quite upset, as he loves the mountains. But, I know we'll return and could do the "Magical Fairyland" trip per bobthenavigator. (Salzburg, Dolomites, Venice, Lake Garda, Bavaria). Any suggestions for a reasonable hotel outside of the Milan airport are welcome (one night).

Thanks again!

Betsy_B,
Personally, I would skip the CT and head for Venice after Florence. You can take the train from Venice to Milan and try to squeeze in a side-trip to Bellagio. I think Venice and Bellagio are much more romantic. We are doing the CT in September staying in SML and taking the ferry or train to the CT towns. If we didn't have to fly in and out of Zurich, I'd be heading back to Venice too.

I love CT and was there late March '03. It was very uncrowded. I bet your dates will not be a crush anywhere as high summer is and lovely besides. City is different than country, especially in Italy. And if you like seafood and pesto- this is the place.

Besty B, for some ideas for hotels outside Malpensa do a quick search on Milan airport hotel and hotel near malpensa--either/both will provide you threads that have info on this topic. For my part I'd say to steer clear of the HotelFirst that is right on the airport grounds--not because of noise but because of soullessness. Opinions vary on the Villa Malpensa and at 160-180 euros it may be beyond your definition of reasonable but it does sound pretty nice and looks good on the website. lots of other suggestions on the various threads that will come up from the suggested searches.

I agree with Desert Sue - take the train to Venice from Florence and then train back to Milan - you were planning on seeing fashion city, weren't you? Pick up car at Rome airport after you've toured the Eternal City and drive north through vineyards, Tuscany, etc. to Florence. Dump car, train it and enjoy honeymoon!

Julie, we first went to the CT in 1984 and were duly impressed. Went back in 1996 and 2002 and each time it gets more commercial. Still, it is worth your time, especially in off season.

Given the comments regarding CT and tourists. Will July be a madhouse? I am traveling with husband and two teenage boys. We will be leaving Rome via train, en route to Milan to fly home. On the way to Milan we wanted to stop and give the kids a different view of Italy (rather than Rome). While the adults would love Tuscany, I think it wouldn't be as appealing to the kids. The allure of the sea and hiking sounds wonderful... any other suggestions.

AnnieGoo: I think the CT is great for kids and a good change after having spent some time in a busy city. They can hike, swim and dive from the rocks. They will love it!

If I could add to Annie's question, since I'll be visiting Liguria this coming July: I'm curious to know if the madding crowds are solely the result of RS books (which, frankly, I don't care for compared to other travel books), or are they due to some other factors? For example, is CT more crowded than other Italian locations (we've visited Venice/Florence/Tuscany, Rome/Amalfi Coast, amd Milan/Italian Lakes/Verona over three vacations in the past 5 years all in July's peak season, and though busy, I would not say that the crowds impacted our trips one bit).