Vonse

We're all set for 4 nights in Lisbon the last week in March. Due to a change in flights, we'll only have 3 full days. If it comes down to choosing between Sintra and Belem, which would you choose and why?

Also, we're staying in an apartment at Baixa House on Rua dos Fanqueiros at Rua da Conceicao. I'd love some recommendations for nearby restaurants, as well as riverfront seafood restaurants.

Finally, we'd like recommendations for Fado - the less touristy and more authentic the better. Is it necessary to buy tickets or reserve in advance?

Thanks so much!

PalenQ

do both - Belem is in Lisbon, on the waterfront - sweet strolling area now - Sintra is just about 30 mins away by frequent suburban train - you have plenty of time to do both - but if I had to chose I'd take Sintra and its fabulous castles. But again Belem is right in Lisbon.

thursdaysd

I'd take Belem, because I think the monastery is so special. I've been back to Belem but not (as yet) to Sintra. I have no trouble spending most of a day in Belem.

I also keep going back to the Bom Jardim for to-die-for chicken. But absolutely no frills or atmosphere - think paper tablecloths. You go for the chicken. It's quite close, on Travessa de S. Antoa.

suec1

Not sure what else you have in your other days in Lisbon but I would try to fit in Belem as a half day. Sintra can probably fill up an entire day. Do try the famous pastries, either in Belem or in a bakery in Lisbon - I was not really expecting to like them but ended up being impressed. Chicken restaurant suggestion is a good one.

lauramsgarden

We didn't leave enough time for Sintra - I wish we had had a whole day, and we also spent a day in Belem and loved it. check my trip report from 2012 I think for restaurants - I can't remember now but am thinking it was called xaipuri bistro that we loved in your neighborhood. Don't miss the tile museum.

danon

With only 3 days, Belem
Lots to see in Lisbon.

Vonse

Thank you! I think we'll play it by ear and see how we feel. I'd like to keep Sintra for a full day and try for a half day in Belem.

Lauramsgarden: The tile museum is on my list and I'll check out Xapuri. Eleven sounds wonderful!

Any Fado recommendations?

lauramsgarden

we didn't see any Fado, Re the recommendation for Eleven. It is set in a beautiful spot - I will tell you that when we took a look at the menu we gasped at the prices, but since we were there decided to sit back and enjoy and did not regret it a bit - one of the best meals we have ever enjoyed anywhere - but definitely pricey!

shellio

We had a wonderful fado experience in 2012 at Mesa de Frades, a tiny place where we were lucky enough to go on the evening that Vicente da Camera, a fado legend, was celebrating his 80th birthday with family and friends, many of whom sang in his honor. Finally he himself took the stage. An incredible experience. If you can get away with reserving a table without having to have dinner, do so. The food was less than memorable. Expect to have a late evening. We left at about 1:00 a.m. And they were having another show an hour or so later.

The most fun meal we had in Lisbon was at Ramiro, a seafood restaurant in a very untouristy part of town. You need to wait in line and then get an electronic menu with pictures to help you order. The food was wonderful, lots of different kinds of shellfish and lots of garlic. Not to be missed.

Vonse

Shellio: I've been hearing a lot about Ramiro and have it on my list. Your fado experience sounds wonderful - what a treat!

Rubicund

We've visited this fado spot a couple of times:

São Miguel D'Alfama, in R. de São Miguel 9, 1100-542 Lisboa, Portugal
Phone:+351 21 887 0193

The food on the first visit was exceptional, the second visit was OK. It's in a small square in Alfama and gets very busy later on, get there early to get a table-I think it opens around 7 or 7:30pm. It's only a small place and they get very emotional when a singer is in full cry. We got shushed for talking whilst he was singing.

ekscrunchy

Regarding FADO in Lisbon:

I will be in Lisbon this week, arriving tomorrow the 8th.

I just received a recommendation for the fado bar/restaurant POVO. The person who recommended it is a local chef of some reknown here in Bilbao and so I am giving some weight to the fact that he spoke highly of the food. He told me that the food was non-pretentious traditional fare and that one dessert in particular was fantastic.

I looked up POVO and found a schedule of talent for the days that I will be in Lisbon. Looks like the singer Marifa will be there this week, with alternating musicians.

Are any of your locals, or frequent travelers to Lisbon, familiar with this place?
I would like to arrive in time to have a drink and maybe that dessert, and listen to the music. (I've never been to a fado performance)


http://povolisboa.com/home-original/

denisea

Sintra is wonderful. We went with a group and did not see everything and I would love to go back there. Quinta da Regaleira is amazing and the Initiation Well is one of the most interesting, unique things I have experienced anywhere!

HappyTrvlr

Belem is a section of Lisbon and the Jeronimos complex was a huge highlight of Lisbon for us. You can also see Sintra but make sure you see the older Nacional Palace in addition to the newer Pena Palace. When we return to Lisbon we'll go back to Belem but not Sintra as once was enough to see the palaces.

lobo_mau

Never heard before about Povo ou Marifá.
The reference "Casas de Fado" are "Mesa de Frades" and "Clube de Fado" (Alfama). "Baiuca" in Alfama has a nice atmosphere (the kind of places where the chefs and the staff sing along with other duties).
Near "Povo", up in Bairro Alto, there is "A Tasca do Xico", a simple place where some spontaneous patrons can raise and thing as well as more regular singers. It's more a place to find a seat and have a drink than a place to have a regular diner.
In Bairro Alto, a few years ago, I used to attend Caldo Verde, but there is a long time since I went there the last time.
Rubicund, you are lucky for having been shushed. There are 2 reasons considered reasonable justification for shooting somebody on the spot. One is talking during a fado performance and the other is using socks and sandals at the same time.
Otherwise Portuguese are quite tolerant. After all you are just a crazy tourist doing whatever you like in your leisure time, with exception of the 2 major offenses stated above.

PalenQ

The Belem area also has seen the cleaning out of the whole seaside area there into a spiffy esplanade along the water. Great place for a picnic.

ekscrunchy

Obrigado, Lobo!

What is the usual time for a performance to begin? Are there places where I could arrive around 9pm and hear fado, without waiting until then late hours of the evening?

Thanks PalenQue. I look forward to visiting Belem.